Single Speed Hub Motor Conversion?

How do those hubs stand up to the elements? I commute so on hot and cold days the bike would be locked up outside for 10 hours at a time. I have read that those hubs are prone to leaks in hot weather.
It is best not to leave your bike in direct sun. This applies mostly to the battery. If you live in Phoenix, for example, don't leave your battery in your car trunk at the airport for a week. IGH, internally geared hubs, are fine for normal conditions that humans live in. Yes, for coaster brakes such as the original Klunker mountain bikes, the grease would vaporize during a huge downhill race and the grease would then need to be repacked. The most famous of these races was called Repack. I used spray gun oil inside my three speed yesterday. You just pull the clicker and plunger and in it goes. This makes shifting and coasting smooth. IGH such as an Alfine 11 or Nexus 8 gets dipped in Mobile 1 every couple of years, or you could use Shimano IGH Oil which costs about $65. These sorts of IGH are much lower maintenance than external gears. The Dutch love them because they want dependable, low maintenance daily transportation. Dirt and water never touch the internal gears.
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How do those hubs stand up to the elements? I commute so on hot and cold days the bike would be locked up outside for 10 hours at a time. I have read that those hubs are prone to leaks in hot weather.
Rohloff IGH leaks. See mtbforum.com Rohloff is not a motor. Hub motors don't have any oil inside, just a little grease on the gears. The bearings are sealed race, at least the ones I've diassembled.
BTW Shimano Alfine IGH does not have the reputation for leaks. Sturmey Archer don't leak either, but the SA S80 IGH the shift pawl pops off every 100' requiring me to lay on the ground to replace it. *****-of-**** removed & stored @ 600 miles.
 
Rohloff IGH leaks. See mtbforum.com Rohloff is not a motor. Hub motors don't have any oil inside, just a little grease on the gears. The bearings are sealed race, at least the ones I've diassembled.
BTW Shimano Alfine IGH does not have the reputation for leaks. Sturmey Archer don't leak either, but the SA S80 IGH the shift pawl pops off every 100' requiring me to lay on the ground to replace it. *****-of-**** removed & stored @ 600 miles.
By hub I was referring to the IGH.
 
I think @PedalUma wore me down. I am looking at getting one of these and putting a TSDZ2 on it. https://electra.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/electra-bikes/loft/loft-7i-step-over/p/16806/
Anyone have experience with this bike?
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Which Kit did you use for this?
Just a cheap, but very complete, geared rear hub kit from Amazon by a seller called Ricetoo who claimed to be the manufacturer. It came with KT WP 36/48v 11-22a controller which works really well. I've run it on both 36v and 48v batteries and on very hilly routes without overheating or any other apparent problems. I only bought the kit thinking I would put it on a tandem bike to make up for my wife's lack of pedaling power when riding hills but it became apparent that my wife can no longer safely ride our tandem anymore so I put it on an old mountain bike just to do something with it. Even though it works great I haven't ridden that bike in almost a year and have scavenged the controller to use on a geared front hub bike that my wife rides.
 
I think @PedalUma wore me down. I am looking at getting one of these and putting a TSDZ2 on it. https://electra.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/electra-bikes/loft/loft-7i-step-over/p/16806/
Anyone have experience with this bike?View attachment 108835
It is a fine bike, especially for the money. I was checking them out yesterday. The cable to the IGH goes under the bottom bracket. Simply move it with your finger so that it goes over the bottom bracket so that it does not get crimped by the motor. Some of these bikes have an oval tube behind the BB that splits to become the chain stays at the kickstand. That is not a standard install. It requires drilling and reinforcement with a longer M8 hex cap screw. One final thought; you will want to install "mountain' brakes. These have almost twice the surface area.
 

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It is a fine bike, especially for the money. I was checking them out yesterday. The cable to the IGH goes under the bottom bracket. Simply move it with your finger so that it goes over the bottom bracket so that it does not get crimped by the motor. Some of these bikes have an oval tube behind the BB that splits to become the chain stays at the kickstand. That is not a standard install. It requires drilling and reinforcement with a longer M8 hex cap screw. One final thought; you will want to install "mountain' brakes. These have almost twice the surface area.
I haven't had the chance to check the bike out in person yet to check the BB. I would hope to not have to do any drilling.
 
I haven't had the chance to check the bike out in person yet to check the BB. I would hope to not have to do any drilling.
If you need to drill use a 65mm M8 hex cap screw, extra-strong and arch the top plate, while dishing the bottom mounting block with a bastard file. The right side of the kickstand block may need milling on one corner. It will work. Don't give up. Get rid of all visible connectors and extra wires and it will look great.
 

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My bike is converted to electric, using a single speed hub. I got it from a wrecked easy motion bike.

36v 13a gets me 21mph, 48v @13a gets me 25mph. I think the gearing is 46/16T. At 25mph, to be honest is too fast for me to pedal so at that speed the bike is doing all the work.
 

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Well I ended up picking up a Jamis Coda S2 yesterday and I will ne ordering the Tdzs2 this week.
 

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A rear hub motor installation is easy. But they cannot do sustained climbs and changing a rear flat is a huge pain. A 350W mid-drive will outrun and outlast a 750 hub. Also weight distribution is centered and you are less likely to break spokes.
One of these days I may just sample a TSDZ, some of these newer EMTBs are awesome, albeit a bit expensive. A small cassette or freewheel should fill the bill or even an IGH( expect advances and price competition on these units,these days I am trending toward simple and durable( turning wrenches is not as fun as it used to be)
 
One of these days I may just sample a TSDZ, some of these newer EMTBs are awesome, albeit a bit expensive. A small cassette or freewheel should fill the bill or even an IGH( expect advances and price competition on these units,these days I am trending toward simple and durable( turning wrenches is not as fun as it used to be)
After all my research, I am still a fan of the IGH if for simplicity alone. As far as fixing flats, there are several methods to simplify that as well , You can repair the tube while the tire is still attached or you can carry one of these:

In reality, I have no problem climbing hills and to remove the rear wheel with a IGH, only requires you to remove the torque arm and the power cord in addition to the normal process.
 
Well I ended up picking up a Jamis Coda S2 yesterday and I will ne ordering the Tdzs2 this week.
You will need to run continuous shift housing over the bottom bracket so that it does not get pinched. Here is an example. The black line behind the chainring is the housing going over the BB.
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The secondary securing bolt needs to be longer and stronger for your bike than the one that comes with the kit. It will sheer by the second ride.
Is that the vertical bolt that goes thru where the kickstands usually mount? Around 2:05 in the video. There's another horizontal one coming up a few seconds later.

Yeah, as soon as I drywall the big hole in the ceiling above my head here in my den, I'll work on my TSDZ2,
 
The horizontal one is fine. I can sometimes keep a center kickstand. The vertical one is the one to replace with a M8 1.25 hex cap screw that is longer and stronger. It is placed very close to the bottom bracket on the chain stays.
 
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