Shimano vs SRAM

[Rich W.]

I’m upgrading my wife’s Tero 3.0 drivetrain but staying with cable shifting. Currently it has a Shimano 11-36 9 speed, and a 36T chainring. It’s going to a 44T chainring and something between 11–42 and 11-50 cassette, 11 or 12 speed. 11-46 11 speed would be fine. Need to maintain the bottom end while increasing road speed.

What I want is smooth shifting including under load on occasion. And aparenly I can go with either SRAM or Shimano. I have my OE 11sp SRAM stuff from my Tero 5.0 but I wasn’t all that thrilled with it so I don’t plan to use it. My decision is going to be based on quality, reliability, and ease of use (smooth shifting) in a cable-shift drivetrain.

So the question is which brand and then which deraillure/shifter/cassette? I was looking at the 8130 series Shimano stuff but I’m told I can also use SRAM with the existing hub (Shimano MT400-B) and I have a Praxis 44T chainring that might not work with Shimano (so I’m told) so now I’m not so sure. I understand the SRAM stuff pretty well but the Shimano website isn’t providing me much clarity

 

[smorgasbord]

I've upgraded a mountain eBike (Not a Specialized) to have a higher top end, so maybe some of the issues are the same:

1) When going to a larger chainring up front, check clearances. The Tero 3.0 is pretty spacious around the motor, but the chain keeper may have to be removed. I really like narrow-wide chainrings up front. See this blog for explanations. I personally use WolfTooth's "Drop Stop" version on my and my wife's bikes.

2) Between SRAM and Shimano, mixing cassettes and/or chains and/or chainrings isn't a problem at all since all the 11 speed units have the same spacing, as do all the 12 speed units.

3) What's important is to keep derailleur and shifter matched. SRAM uses a constant 1:1 pull across groups, so you can actually upgrade shifter groups without upgrading derailleur groups. Higher end shifters work better while higher-end derailleurs typically only weigh less. Make sure you don't cheap out on the cables.

4) Your gear ratio now is 3.27 at the top end and 1.0 at the bottom. Going to a 44 upfront raises the top end to a 4.0, so that should be noticeable. I don't know what the Tero 3.0's motor being somewhat underpowered will think of that. With a 42 big cog in the rear, your bottom end will increase slightly to 1.05, so probably just fine. Going to a 50 lowers that to 0.88, if you're climbing steep stuff at low speeds maybe you'll want that.

As for SRAM vs Shimano shifting "smoothness" I can't help you there, and I suspect that you'll find opinions on both sides of that equation. I think a lot of it is whether you like the different shifter layouts each provides. People coming from Shimano sometimes really dislike the SRAM layout, but we love it.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[Rich W.]

I've upgraded a mountain eBike (Not a Specialized) to have a higher top end, so maybe some of the issues are the same:

1) When going to a larger chainring up front, check clearances. The Tero 3.0 is pretty spacious around the motor, but the chain keeper may have to be removed. I really like narrow-wide chainrings up front. See this blog for explanations. I personally use WolfTooth's "Drop Stop" version on my and my wife's bikes.

The 44T is on there now (there’s room for a 48) and working well but 2nd is now more like 3rd and there is no 1st - I haven’t lengthened the chain and the bike wasn’t happy in 1st, so I just locked it out with derailleur adjustment - this is still the experimental stage. But everything else works perfectly. The keeper did have to go but I broke mine a couple months ago and haven’t missed it so I figured this would be ok. Ultimately if I find its needed I’ll fab a custom bracket for it or something.

2) Between SRAM and Shimano, mixing cassettes and/or chains and/or chainrings isn't a problem at all since all the 11 speed units have the same spacing, as do all the 12 speed units.

I hope this proves to be the case - the guy at the LBS said the Shimano chain might hang up on the Praxis ring, but I’m willing to try it first if I go with Shimano.

3) What's important is to keep derailleur and shifter matched. SRAM uses a constant 1:1 pull across groups, so you can actually upgrade shifter groups without upgrading derailleur groups. Higher end shifters work better while higher-end derailleurs typically only weigh less. Make sure you don't cheap out on the cables.

Definitely plan to avoid any mix and match. I plan to use the OE cable - hopefully Spesh uses good ones.

4) Your gear ratio now is 3.27 at the top end and 1.0 at the bottom. Going to a 44 upfront raises the top end to a 4.0, so that should be noticeable. I don't know what the Tero 3.0's motor being somewhat underpowered will think of that. With a 42 big cog in the rear, your bottom end will increase slightly to 1.05, so probably just fine. Going to a 50 lowers that to 0.88, if you're climbing steep stuff at low speeds maybe you'll want that.

I’ve been using bikecalc.com to predict how things will work and the minor loss in 1st with a 42T cog and 44T ring wouldn’t hurt - getting below 1:1 would be a bonus, but she’s a strong rider so not essential.

As for SRAM vs Shimano shifting "smoothness" I can't help you there, and I suspect that you'll find opinions on both sides of that equation. I think a lot of it is whether you like the different shifter layouts each provides. People coming from Shimano sometimes really dislike the SRAM layout, but we love it.

Hope this is helpful.

This does help especially the higher end shifter vs derailleur point - didn’t know that but it makes sense and that small amount of weight savings on a high-end derailleur is inconsequential here. Also I figured this can easily get into a Ford vs. Chevy thing but I can go with either here, so I figured this would be a good time to learn more about Shimano.

 

[smorgasbord]

Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention the obvious chain length issue. There are several videos, including at least one from Park Tool, on figuring out the right chain length once you've decide on chainring and rear cog size.