Just now taking short ride outs on a newly delivered Rad Mini Step Thru. Really enjoy the bike and the PA, but really what is the purpose of the Shimano gear shifter on this bike? The terrain around here is generally flat with mild hills. The weight of this bike doesn't seem to lend it to "normal" peddling (without PA). Is it more common for Rad power bike owners to just leave the bike in one gear and rely on PA for general cycling? I'm confused.
Shifting Gears on a Rad Mini?
- Thread starter Scion142
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
As you ride more, you'll find that coordinating your desired level of effort while pedaling, with your desired speed, then determining the right PAS level and gear you're riding in, is kind of an art form. There's no right or wrong, only different levels of battery efficiency - which may or may not make any difference to you, depending on how far a charge needs to last.
I don't ride very far, often going on several rides between charges, but I found I enjoy the challenge of conserving battery power and find it pretty entertaining. You may or may not....
I don't ride very far, often going on several rides between charges, but I found I enjoy the challenge of conserving battery power and find it pretty entertaining. You may or may not....
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
It really depends on how you ride/use your Rad power bike.
I work commute on my 16 Rover in PAS 3 at the max 20-22 mph speed. I downshift to 2nd/3rd gear at a stop and may or may/not accelerate with throttle depending on how fast I need to accelerate to 20 mph. I've noticed I can cut my 0-20 mph speed almost by 1/2 using PAS 3+hard pedaling+gear shifting+throttle compared to just relying on PAS or throttle only.
I use PAS 2 and shifting gears between 2nd-5th for power for single-track trail riding for speeds of 8-14 mph. I bump it up to PAS 3 if the trail gets really sandy. I also use the throttle if I might hit my pedals on tight turns, fallen branches/stumps might catch a pedal, extremely deep sand traps, when I have to sit on the down-tube because of low head clearance, or short+steep inclines.
I'm usually PAS 1 or PAS 2 and little to no shifting when riding with the wife on her Rad Step-thru. She perfers slow and steady, no trails, low double-digit speeds, and paved roads or paved bike trails only.
I work commute on my 16 Rover in PAS 3 at the max 20-22 mph speed. I downshift to 2nd/3rd gear at a stop and may or may/not accelerate with throttle depending on how fast I need to accelerate to 20 mph. I've noticed I can cut my 0-20 mph speed almost by 1/2 using PAS 3+hard pedaling+gear shifting+throttle compared to just relying on PAS or throttle only.
I use PAS 2 and shifting gears between 2nd-5th for power for single-track trail riding for speeds of 8-14 mph. I bump it up to PAS 3 if the trail gets really sandy. I also use the throttle if I might hit my pedals on tight turns, fallen branches/stumps might catch a pedal, extremely deep sand traps, when I have to sit on the down-tube because of low head clearance, or short+steep inclines.
I'm usually PAS 1 or PAS 2 and little to no shifting when riding with the wife on her Rad Step-thru. She perfers slow and steady, no trails, low double-digit speeds, and paved roads or paved bike trails only.
Tars Tarkas
Well-Known Member
For me, shifting gears is mostly terrain related. As AHicks, said, it's a matter of keeping my effort at the level I want. I like to go fast generally so on the open road or trail I'm usually in PAS 5, pedaling with little effort. And in that scenario, you''re mostly right, it doesn't matter what gear your in. Although, if you like to have a little resistance to your pedals you need to be in a high gear.
As I get into congested areas, I'll set the PAS to 2 or 3 and the shifter at a comfortable level. On my rides, this is where I run into some relatively steep hills. There I'll shift down and maybe (or maybe not) crank the PAS up a notch. Hills just disappear!
As others said, a lot depends on your riding style, terrain, and what you want to do. In some cases you can probably ride forever without shifting gears, but in others, the gears are a godsend. Or maybe an acquired taste.
TT
As I get into congested areas, I'll set the PAS to 2 or 3 and the shifter at a comfortable level. On my rides, this is where I run into some relatively steep hills. There I'll shift down and maybe (or maybe not) crank the PAS up a notch. Hills just disappear!
As others said, a lot depends on your riding style, terrain, and what you want to do. In some cases you can probably ride forever without shifting gears, but in others, the gears are a godsend. Or maybe an acquired taste.
TT
harryS
Well-Known Member
That's a common reaction, Scion1142, among new ebike owners who weren't riding a lot prior.
I see two reasons to shift. The first is that it saves wear and tear on the motor/battery if you (a) use leg power and (b) ride in a gear that makes it easier for you to pedal, as that makes it also easier for the motor,' The second is that it's just more fun if you are into riding bikes for fun. Humming along on throttle only is kind of boring to me.
I see two reasons to shift. The first is that it saves wear and tear on the motor/battery if you (a) use leg power and (b) ride in a gear that makes it easier for you to pedal, as that makes it also easier for the motor,' The second is that it's just more fun if you are into riding bikes for fun. Humming along on throttle only is kind of boring to me.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
gears are there so you can get your vacancy up and keep it there as terrain changes. so you can get your heart rate up. pushing hard does not work well and too easy and your on an electric scooter.
I did debate on which Rad to get, the Rad Mini, or the Rad Runner. Since I didn't ride either before my purchase I went with the Rad Mini because of it folding feature which I like because we take them camping with us. I did get to ride a Rad Runner after my purchase at a Rad Tour event here in Ft. Worth, Texas and was happy with the performance of the Runner with its single speed rear hub assembly for my type of riding. Would I buy the Runner over the Mini, probably not as the Mini for $200 more offers so much more in additional features over the Runner.
Similar threads
