When I was removing the old controller the cable connector insert pulled out of the yellow cable that appears to go to the crank (pics below). I hate those connectors with a passion! I just submitted a ticket with Juiced support but am concerned about wait times on replacement parts. Can I order the connector somewhere and splice my own cable? Any other ideas?
Scrambler throttle / controller upgrade kit - broken molex connector
- Thread starter Armchair
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Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
I've seen them online. They're not called molex IIRC. @Thomas Jaszewski might know.
I'm pretty disappointed with Juiced right now to say the least. I followed their video step by step. The only way to separate the connector is pulling and it just so happened that their molding failed when doing so yet this is their response....
"Thanks for reaching out to us. Resoldering wires is not a good idea, you'll need to replace your whole cadence sensor connection.
It looks more like an installation issue than an actual defective connector. The cadence connection is a tight fit and we pulled too hard.
I can offer a discount on a replacement sensor.
Confirmed your address with us to create a replacement invoice for you. "
"Thanks for reaching out to us. Resoldering wires is not a good idea, you'll need to replace your whole cadence sensor connection.
It looks more like an installation issue than an actual defective connector. The cadence connection is a tight fit and we pulled too hard.
I can offer a discount on a replacement sensor.
Confirmed your address with us to create a replacement invoice for you. "
tomjasz
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Higo connectors, I can't imagine how they would come apart other than by overstressing by using pliers or some tool. Or by pulling on wire bundle rather than firmly gripping the connectors near as possible to the joint. I have dozens of them on bikes and have sold hundreds of systems without a failure.
Replacing isn't so easy. You'll have to cut and solder wires onto new pigtails with the right connector. OR find another connector to use.
Juiced can't be blamed for an inexperienced user over applying force. As to repairs by soldering, I imagine Juiced figures its customers haven't the appropriate skills. But a solder joint can be solid. Thousands of DIY fellas do it every day.
Replacing isn't so easy. You'll have to cut and solder wires onto new pigtails with the right connector. OR find another connector to use.
Juiced can't be blamed for an inexperienced user over applying force. As to repairs by soldering, I imagine Juiced figures its customers haven't the appropriate skills. But a solder joint can be solid. Thousands of DIY fellas do it every day.
The other connectors came apart without much issue, it was just that one. I spoke to someone on the phone and he told me that they sometimes use a heat gun. Nice of them to put that in the video.
I only gripped the connectors as I was afraid of putting stress on the wire and strain relief and pulled them directly apart from each-other.
"Juiced can't be blamed for an inexperienced user over applying force." Always assuming the customer messed up is making the assumption a part (in this case a cable mold) can never be defective. It's a cheap connector made with cheap plastics. In my line of work, ultrasound systems, we use much more expensive parts and run into poor connectors / moldings on a regular basis.
I only gripped the connectors as I was afraid of putting stress on the wire and strain relief and pulled them directly apart from each-other.
"Juiced can't be blamed for an inexperienced user over applying force." Always assuming the customer messed up is making the assumption a part (in this case a cable mold) can never be defective. It's a cheap connector made with cheap plastics. In my line of work, ultrasound systems, we use much more expensive parts and run into poor connectors / moldings on a regular basis.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Higos are like a standard in commercial bikes from China. Dunno about German bikes. Wish all my bikes used them. I also grip them by the body of the molding.
The alternative is JST connectors. Primitive compared to Higo's and I bet 5-10% of them have terminals pulling off from bad crimps.
If you don't want the downtime, I think it could be soldered, coated with liquid runner, and be useable, if you knew the wire colors.
I assume the left picture with the two pin red connector has nothing to do with the yellow one?
The alternative is JST connectors. Primitive compared to Higo's and I bet 5-10% of them have terminals pulling off from bad crimps.
If you don't want the downtime, I think it could be soldered, coated with liquid runner, and be useable, if you knew the wire colors.
I assume the left picture with the two pin red connector has nothing to do with the yellow one?
No, the red one was just an example to compare it with the pulled out one. They want to sell me the part and said they could ship it out right away for $40. I might just do that but to put it mildly, this has really tarnished my otherwise great experiences with my two Juiced bikes. It doesn't give me confidence that the warranty covers anything other than day 1 issues.
rich c
Well-Known Member
$40 is the discounted price? No idea if this is the same, but worth checking with Bolton.
https://boltonebikes.com/products/pedal-assist-pas-sensor
https://boltonebikes.com/products/pedal-assist-pas-sensor
Thanks for that. I definitely will and if that's the same part it's nuts that Juiced would have pushed back sending me a replacement under warranty. Would have cost them pennies.
Juiced MSRP is listed as $70!
joshuaho96
Member
Juiced warranty is pretty tight-fisted in general, they tried to make me pay for a replacement alu rack when the first one didn't fit. The second one didn't either and it took a lot of arm-twisting on my behalf to actually get it. When I finally figured out that my HF1100 had a bent frame out of the box (documented literally from the first test ride) they ignored me and I had to do a Paypal dispute to get a refund. The thing is still sitting in my garage and I haven't ridden it since the refund. Juiced support offered to take it back but they didn't bother to follow up at all. Tora is clearly driving these policies, I'm guessing margins are thin.
tomjasz
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I know how frustrating it can be. Dozens of different kits put together here with a frustrating array of connectors. We buy finished bikes, by passing an LBS, and expect the seller preemptively sort every possible buyers product unfamiliarity. Tough. At best. For DIY fellas it’s obvious and an easy fix. Lesson? You have a nice bike. You have discovered that not supporting an LBS has hidden costs. Pay now or pay later.
My apologies for making your misfortune a chance to pontificate. I truly hope you are properly supported and provided the parts under warranty. I’d honour the warranty and never bust the customers chops.
Nothing beats a great LBS.
tomjasz
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Sadly higo connections are hybrid, durable but not really DIY friendly. An organised reseller would have a stock of various “pigtails” or configured sections/harnesses of wiring.
Several motor builders have started to share Higo harnesses.
The Ebike builders haven’t caught up to old school bike companies warranty support. I recently bought a Marin hybrid NOS bare frame. It was stock that was put up as replacements, for 2009, on a best guess percentage to cover warranty.
These days hunting parts to provide support is a full time job. For a single manufacturers lousy parts supplies.
That said Juiced ought to eat this one, and shame on them for not having the foresight to have stock.
It took two years of nagging to get a simple new chain guard bracket for a $800 TREK.
Great that you got this posted and better yet there’s a solution. Last week a forum post regarding a 07 error code on a BBSHD prevented shipping problem motors and revealed another brain fart by Bafang. They changed the error code parameters and a 52v battery shuts down and throws a 07 over volt.
Well, I conveniently received an email asking me to rate my satisfaction with my bike. In short I wrote great bike, dissatisfied with service. Soon after a manager shot me an email saying they released my order with no charge. I'm not happy that it had to take the "squeaky wheel" route but overall it worked out. Now I need to look up how to install it.
Regarding those Higo connectors, it's too bad that the wire doesn't have one on each end so you wouldn't need to replace the full part if a wire goes bad or gets snipped.
That sucks about the Trek you had to deal with, I was always under the impression they were a good service company. A couple years ago I bought a Raleigh mountain bike and one of the brake rotors was warped. I called support and they sent me a full replacement set in a couple days!
Regarding those Higo connectors, it's too bad that the wire doesn't have one on each end so you wouldn't need to replace the full part if a wire goes bad or gets snipped.
That sucks about the Trek you had to deal with, I was always under the impression they were a good service company. A couple years ago I bought a Raleigh mountain bike and one of the brake rotors was warped. I called support and they sent me a full replacement set in a couple days!
tomjasz
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This company has all sorts of HIGO solutions and adapters. A bit hard to navigate. Watch the left column menu if you link to a blank page.
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/...nnectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-f-series
Higo connector adapter pigtail BBSHD cable BBS02
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/...nnectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-f-series
Higo connector adapter pigtail BBSHD cable BBS02
tomjasz
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Looking forward to learning and seeing! THANKS!!!
Did this on Sunday. Aside from getting that crank arm off it was pretty easy. Crank arm took about 20 minutes rotating between a heat gun, the puller, and a mallet. After getting the arm off it's just a matter of pulling the old sensor off and cutting zip ties.
The new one was actually a different part and the cable was pointed in the other direction so I installed it with the cable pointing downward (I didn't take a pic). However there is a pic of the original one on there where it was installed in line with the other cabling. In the pics the new one is the smaller, more solid, disc marked 1901.
The "Off road" kit actually came with another throttle and cabling but it looked identical to the original stuff that came with the bike. I emailed asking if it was necessary to install the new throttle and they said no. I'm not sure why the even include it but I guess I have a backup part.
The new one was actually a different part and the cable was pointed in the other direction so I installed it with the cable pointing downward (I didn't take a pic). However there is a pic of the original one on there where it was installed in line with the other cabling. In the pics the new one is the smaller, more solid, disc marked 1901.
The "Off road" kit actually came with another throttle and cabling but it looked identical to the original stuff that came with the bike. I emailed asking if it was necessary to install the new throttle and they said no. I'm not sure why the even include it but I guess I have a backup part.
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