RIZE - CITY MD E-BIKE ARE THEY ANY OWNERS WITH PROS and CONS REVIEW FOR ME BEFORE I BUY 2 OF THESE E-BIKES

[W8N4U]

Hello everyone, that are E-Bike Riders and Lovers,
we are looking at the RIZE - CITY MD e-bikes and I wonder how many of you own this bike?

your input on the Pros and Cons would be so grateful as we wish to purchase x 2 e-bikes.

I am 5'9" 240 lbs and my wife is 5'5" tall no weight is required lol as I need to survive a marriage.

Seriously I hope many of you have purchased this beautiful e-bike, the "City MD Electric Mid-Drive Bike"

How many bought the TEAL Color bike please let us know.
we like that colour.

Let me know what colour you took as well
Thanks in advance

 

[Dewey]

At 65lb it is not a lightweight ebike if that is a concern, but the motor will be powerful enough for both of you. The bike can be configured as a Class 1, 2 or 3 with or without a throttle plus cadence sensor pedal assist. The dual battery option is useful if you plan on longer rides. The headlight is a basic 'be seen' Sate-Lite which I would recommend you replace with something more powerful if you intend to ride regularly at night. As Timpo suggests above, if you want an idea of how the BBS02 motor performs you might look at reviews of other models that use the motor from brands including Biktrix, Luna, BMEbikes, Day6, DŌST, etc. You may like to ask around to find a friendly local bike shop prepared to service the bicycle components, buy a multimeter and download the the list of Bafang display error codes so you can troubleshoot any electrical problems. Parts are fairly easy to find at present because it is a popular DIY ebike motor, but Bafang is an unreliable supplier with a habit of stopping production runs with no notice, which happened in 2016 with my 2013 BBS01a and the parts stream has since dried up, so you have to rely on Rize keeping a stock of BBS02 parts for their customers because Bafang does not provide for inventory migration.

 

[theemartymac]

One thing I caught when Rize released that model was the height of the step-through reinforcing. It's quite chonky, which should be strong, but raises the step-over height 3-4 inches? The Dost by comparison looks much lower. Might not be an issue, or even accurate to production bikes, but could be a factor to think about if your wife is only 5'5". Ass others have mentioned, the Rize bikes are heavy, and a little harder to tilt over to mount - particularly if you have any cargo on the rack. And speaking of which, DOST has a front rack option that I have not seen with Rize yet.

Courts Review

But I have a couple of 2020 Rize bikes, and have been happy with them both overall. I still feel they are good value for the money.

 

[Coursol]

I own a Rize city MD 2022 and a rad runner plus 2020. Rad run er has 1300 km and Rize has 350km. I am 6'4" and about 270 lbs. Both are said to be 500watt but there is substantial power difference. I have had no issue going up substantial hills towing tule bike trailer carrying my granddaughter 45lbs and groceries. The other good thing is that it's substantial lighter. Yes is 64 pounds but much more manageable the the rad runner Wich feels alot heavier.
As for the negatives. The shifting is a little harsh. Due to the raw torque of the motor the clunk when changing Brought it to a shop to smooth out the shifting it made a little difference. What I find I have to do is just press on the brake leaver just a touch to engage motor shut-off and peddle once then there is no clunk. It takes some getting used to but it does work. If your looking for easy then go hub motor.
The other thing is the handle bars. Having swept back found I hard less control especially when it gets wet or hands get moist feels as though they will slip.

 

[AHicks]

Shifting a mid drive is something that takes some time to get used to, and it's no different on this bike than others that are similar. It's a timing thing. There's a delay involved from the time you shift until the bike changes gears. It's not a long delay, just something to get used to. Soon, you won't even think about it....

Until then, if you find yourself needing extra power right away, especially at lower speeds, consider bumping up to the next higher PAS level instead of shifting..... That bump is impossible to screw up, with no threat of a messed up shift..... Works great!

We're not all the same, but some prefer those angled back bars for wrist comfort. It's a more natural angle for them. Elbows at your side, put you hands in front of you about where your handlebars are, and observe the angle of your hands. Are they straight across, or angled back slightly? The right handlebar grips (and gloves?) can make a big difference in lousy conditions if you are struggling to maintain your grip on occasion.

As far as the City MD, my bet is it's making a lot of friends. There's no real deal breakers, and it's a pretty reasonable price for a mid drive...

 

[Bill Owen]

I own a Rize city MD 2022 and a rad runner plus 2020. Rad run er has 1300 km and Rize has 350km. I am 6'4" and about 270 lbs. Both are said to be 500watt but there is substantial power difference. I have had no issue going up substantial hills towing tule bike trailer carrying my granddaughter 45lbs and groceries. The other good thing is that it's substantial lighter. Yes is 64 pounds but much more manageable the the rad runner Wich feels alot heavier.
As for the negatives. The shifting is a little harsh. Due to the raw torque of the motor the clunk when changing Brought it to a shop to smooth out the shifting it made a little difference. What I find I have to do is just press on the brake leaver just a touch to engage motor shut-off and peddle once then there is no clunk. It takes some getting used to but it does work. If your looking for easy then go hub motor.
The other thing is the handle bars. Having swept back found I hard less control especially when it gets wet or hands get moist feels as though they will slip.

I have the same bike. The bike itself is well made. I have the same clunk and will try your method. I was shocked at that "clunk" and see no excuse for it in a bike for this price. It handles and stops really well. I asked Rize to remove the front and rear lights as I want to use my own, much better lights, but Rize refused, "we cannot open the box, but don't worry, it's easy for you to do." It was nothing like easy, and they offered no instructions. I wound up having to figure out where the controller is, and then I had to pull a crank to access it and remove the wires. I also removed the rack as I use a Travoy trailer and the rack was blocking that. I like the bike, more or less. The company? Not at all. Lousy service. The manual is not very useful either as it is extremely basic.

 

[rayray]

Re; “Clunk when shifting”. I have two ebikes, a Trek Allant+ 9.9S with Shimano Deore derailleur (which I’ll soon be selling), and a Turbo Creo with SRAM AXS. I’ve found, with both, that if I keep the chain and gearing clean and well-lubed, they shift very smoothly. On the other hand, fail to maintain that routine, and they both shift very harshly, with a loud clunk. Of course, it also requires reducing peddle pressure when shifting the Creo, and even pausing for a split second on the Trek.

 

[Coursol]

Re; “Clunk when shifting”. I have two ebikes, a Trek Allant+ 9.9S with Shimano Deore derailleur (which I’ll soon be selling), and a Turbo Creo with SRAM AXS. I’ve found, with both, that if I keep the chain and gearing clean and well-lubed, they shift very smoothly. On the other hand, fail to maintain that routine, and they both shift very harshly, with a loud clunk. Of course, it also requires reducing peddle pressure when shifting the Creo, and even pausing for a split second on the Trek.

It has nothing to due with dirty or un maintained derailleur these a brand new bike. Fine tuning it I found does help. But what I do find helps the most is the larger pause inbetween switching gears. This motor has so much torque and the motor cutoff period is not long enough. I few seconds more and the chain would be set and no clunk. I don't think it's a bike issue it's more of powerful Md drive issue.

 

[Coursol]

I have the same bike. The bike itself is well made. I have the same clunk and will try your method. I was shocked at that "clunk" and see no excuse for it in a bike for this price. It handles and stops really well. I asked Rize to remove the front and rear lights as I want to use my own, much better lights, but Rize refused, "we cannot open the box, but don't worry, it's easy for you to do." It was nothing like easy, and they offered no instructions. I wound up having to figure out where the controller is, and then I had to pull a crank to access it and remove the wires. I also removed the rack as I use a Travoy trailer and the rack was blocking that. I like the bike, more or less. The company? Not at all. Lousy service. The manual is not very useful either as it is extremely basic.

Changing the front light was going to be my next project on the bike hope I have better luck.

 

[Rob14FL.]

I own the 2022 Rize City MD with the secondary battery. My drivetrain clunks if I press too quickly for power or if I shift to lower gears coming into a stop. I am new to Ebikes, but have lots of road and MTB experience. I have used the brake application to cutout the motor when doing large gear changes. I assumed that this bike doesn’t have a torque sensor as causing the shifting issue. But again I am new to this Ebike. Does anyone have info on how to use the secondary battery correctly? The owners manual has nothing. And nothing came with the battery. Does the BMS decide on which battery to draw from? A web search provides nothing. Do you turn the secondary battery on when the primary is expended? The only thing the company provides is how to install it on the bike. Otherwise I have very few Cons on the bike. Initially I had the rear brake rotor rubbing the kickstand fittings. Rize was quick to provide parts and directions to fix. Again I like the bike. I have modified it to ride double or use it as a light cargo hauler.

 

[AHicks]

Rob, I can't help with how the aux battery is used, but wanted to say that bike should shift like any other you've ridden. Or at least it should once you get the timing down right? Do you feel the motor is still powering the bike when you get this clunk, even though you've stopped pedaling?

Is this motor the Bafang BBS02? The connector the display uses to connect to the main harness up by the handlebars, is it round?

 

[Coursol]

For the battery keep the secondary battery on. What it does is draws from both equally. This allows you to draw more for longer. Watch Bolton evoke or area 71 as it's called now he explains better then i.
As for the clunk of the shifting. I have mostly gotten rid of that by pressing ever so slightly on the break to extend the motor shut off engage longer. I find when shifting gears the motor shut off isn't long enough for the chain to be fully seated in the sprocket. I wonder if there is a way to increase the shutoff timing when changing gears

 

[AHicks]

For the battery keep the secondary battery on. What it does is draws from both equally. This allows you to draw more for longer. Watch Bolton evoke or area 71 as it's called now he explains better then i.
As for the clunk of the shifting. I have mostly gotten rid of that by pressing ever so slightly on the break to extend the motor shut off engage longer. I find when shifting gears the motor shut off isn't long enough for the chain to be fully seated in the sprocket. I wonder if there is a way to increase the shutoff timing when changing gears

IF this is a BBS02 motor, and it's using a round connector for the display, you have one of the most adjustable motors ever made. That's why I asked above. It'll require the purchase of a cable (available from Amazon, less than 20 bucks) and downloading some software to a Windows based computer. That will lead you down a rabbit hole, but there's plenty of support available.

 

[Coursol]

IF this is a BBS02 motor, and it's using a round connector for the display, you have one of the most adjustable motors ever made. That's why I asked above. It'll require the purchase of a cable (available from Amazon, less than 20 bucks) and downloading some software to a Windows based computer. That will lead you down a rabbit hole, but there's plenty of support available.

Yea they are bbs02. I just might do that if it starts happening again or I get annoyed with holding the break a little.
To answer your other question yes it does have a a derailleur shut off.

 

[Rob14FL.]

Rob, I can't help with how the aux battery is used, but wanted to say that bike should shift like any other you've ridden. Or at least it should once you get the timing down right? Do you feel the motor is still powering the bike when you get this clunk, even though you've stopped pedaling?

Is this motor the Bafang BBS02? The connector the display uses to connect to the main harness up by the handlebars, is it round?

Hello AHicks,

My motor according to the specs sent by Rize is a 500W G070 500D. The connector to the display is round.
I don’t think I was peddling, but might of been. Still used to background in road bikes. Slowing down in a group
you keep peddling to shift the correct start rolling gear. So I have just started using the brake cutout, so the
clunk from the chain wouldn’t happen. The chain and gear are clean and lubricated. Might just be my operator error.

 

[Rob14FL.]

For the battery keep the secondary battery on. What it does is draws from both equally. This allows you to draw more for longer. Watch Bolton evoke or area 71 as it's called now he explains better then i.
As for the clunk of the shifting. I have mostly gotten rid of that by pressing ever so slightly on the break to extend the motor shut off engage longer. I find when shifting gears the motor shut off isn't long enough for the chain to be fully seated in the sprocket. I wonder if there is a way to increase the shutoff timing when changing gears

Hello Coursol,

Thanks for the info on the secondary battery. Right now it sits on my workbench. I recharge it routinely. But most of my rides so far don’t need the extra oomph. Thanx.

 

[AHicks]

Hello AHicks,

My motor according to the specs sent by Rize is a 500W G070 500D. The connector to the display is round.
I don’t think I was peddling, but might of been. Still used to background in road bikes. Slowing down in a group
you keep peddling to shift the correct start rolling gear. So I have just started using the brake cutout, so the
clunk from the chain wouldn’t happen. The chain and gear are clean and lubricated. Might just be my operator error.

OK, I'm confused for sure. The bike in you picture is a mid drive, the model number in your note is for a hub drive. I think the bike is available either way, leaving me at a loss for which one we're talking about? It makes a difference as the mid drive is adjustable for how long the motor keeps running after you stop pedaling. The hub drive is not.

 

[Rob14FL.]

OK, I'm confused for sure. The bike in you picture is a mid drive, the model number in your note is for a hub drive. I think the bike is available either way, leaving me at a loss for which one we're talking about? It makes a difference as the mid drive is adjustable for how long the motor keeps running after you stop pedaling. The hub drive is not.

No mine is a mid drive. I asked Rize for a printout of all the specs of my model. Stuff that is not in the normal owners manual. So maybe with the supply issue this is not accurate. Question: If I come to a stop while downshifting and not peddling when does the derailer function? During the slowdown or when peddling commences? I am obviously getting the chunking noise when the motor kicks in. And old habits as above I would peddle without thinking on a road bike to get the right gear selected next. Here is the data sheets they sent me.

 

[AHicks]

OK, that helps. They sent you the sheets for both the hub drive and the mid drive. Your mid drive motor spec is listed on the second sheet (48v G340, more commonly known as a BBS02b). The shift delay switch they install shuts the motor down (much like the brake switch would) when the shift cable moves. It's just for a second or less though! This switch should let you shift like you always have, but there is a timing issue you have to get used to. The derailleur moves like you are used to, which just starts the actual shift. The actual shift is not lightning fast. It occurs during what, maybe half of a crank revolution? So in practice, you initiate the shift, the switch does it's thing (that you may or may not notice), while you continue to turn the crank with no pressure. You'll "feel" when the shift is completed, and at that point you can start applying pressure on the pedals again.

I've been riding a long time too, previous to my mid drive e-bike, and where I got in trouble shifting the new mid drive was generally at low speeds (under 10 mph) and high loads, as in rounding a corner at low speed, only to be faced with starting a hill climb that I hadn't anticipated. During the time it takes to drop a gear or 2 for that climb, the bike will nearly stall (stop!), making it very difficult to recover because it's going so slow. In this situation, I would suggest that instead of dropping the 2-3 gears you didn't anticipate soon enough, bump the PAS level up a couple notches. From 1 to 3 for instance, or use the throttle so the bike doesn't stall. Use some of this motor's torque to build some momentum, and when your momentum recovers, THEN drop those 2 gears without crashing the chain on the gears.

Give yourself a chance to get used to it. It IS just a little different..... I'm at about 1500 miles on mine now, and the chain still has very little wear on it, indicating I didn't tear it up too bad while getting used to it. I don't notice the switch working at all, and shifting seems completely normal (almost brain dead).

Know too, that this is a "tuneable" controller in this motor. It's a giant rabbit hole though. If you want to invest in the time it takes to come up to speed on the tuning, it can be easily worth the trouble. -Al

 

[Rob14FL.]

Thank you so much for the in depth knowledge. Like you said I have to get the timing right. I watched a video not to
remain in the center of the gears all the time and rely on the power of the engine. I normally use PAS at 1, sometimes 2.
I figured on my purchase I could replace the Bafang motor if damaged. Compared to the steep price of bikes centered
around a Bosch motor. Also Bosch is totally against any kind of throttle. Again thanks for the insight.