Ride1Up Ltd Upgrades that work

[Fast n' Furious]

I thought this might be a good place to discuss relevant parts and improvements - on any machine, but please that will fit R1U's bikes and most of all the Ltd model.
Members come out of nowhere with the best advice, sharing parts and information that has swayed my choices.
More of that would be great.

After a few years of '60miles a week', my long term experience showed this Ltd holds up well in all major departments.

In order of cost to replace:
Frame. No cracks and even the paint holds up well. Batteries. Still great. These are not the cheap cells. Motor. Fast and reliable. Controller. Acts normal and does it's job. Torque Sensor works as it should - though variations in charge/ settings/ V and A changes/ over varying terrain/ using throttle combinations can make one think otherwise. LOL
Fork. Nobody wants $700 added to the new cost - so we get a $200 fork and it's adequate. The bike is worthy of much higher potential forks. .
Brakes. Awesome. Replacing the $12 pads is easy. They last around 2000miles. Lines are sturdy. No leaks.

From there on it's an owner's choice.
I'll kick this out there: I'm approaching the point I've scheduled to replace, not overhaul the stock fork and I'm thinking a pristine, used Fox 34 for $600 will provide comfort for years to come.
What are people installing on ebikes when stock forks die?

Fn'F

 

[socal_vp]

Any Fox fork will be a huge upgrade, however, you'll probably end up having to replace your front wheel as well, the LMTD comes with old skool 9mm QR if I'm not mistaken, most forks from the last 5 years are through axle type (like what is on the Prodigy)

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Any Fox fork will be a huge upgrade, however, you'll probably end up having to replace your front wheel as well, the LMTD comes with old skool 9mm QR if I'm not mistaken, most forks from the last 5 years are through axle type (like what is on the Prodigy)

I so agree It would be, but wasn't thinking right.
I vaguely remembered from assembly, checked the assembly vid and sure enough. Ltd has a straight steering tube.
All the higher end forks are tapered.
It's come down to RockShox Judy Gold (150 grams heavier), or if I can find one, the Recon Gold (but that one's not straight tube which is much rarer). Getting frustrated looking for that Recon, so it's likely the Judy - still a lot less weight than the stock RST and a full feature suite of adjustments.
Axles ... another good reminder. Thank you. MTB axles are all the rage - esp on full suspension bikes.
No I don't want to replace my front hub, etc. Honestly, what was I thinking?

Thanks for the reality

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Ride1up Ltd Upgrades that work

How to Maintain and improve your Ltds brakes
1. Ltd's brake type and model
2. Which Tektro brake pads work with your Ride1Up Ltd and what are for
3. How to choose which pad is best
4. My experience and conclusions

I'll try and keep this dry. All the tech info here was retrieved from Tektro publication and verified as accurate.
Opinions are mine alone and no more or less valid than anyone's you choose to believe.
My goal is to provide accurate information, to document the facts so you can make accurate choices, based on your needs.
Hope this helps

1. Ltd's brake type and model
The Ltd uses Tektro Auriga hydraulics and the model number (HD M290n) can be found on the on the underside of your levers.
View attachment 124669 Tektro rates these brakes in the 'Mountain Bicycle' category and all four Tektro size 22 pad types will fit*.
*Tektro's calipers that fit size 22 pads are - as far as I can tell - identical. The pads installed are the primary limiting factor and thus, upgrading pads, upgrades the brakes to different performance levels.

2. Which Tektro brake pads work with your Ride1Up Ltd

a. (Highest Performance)

• Model A10YS (Gold)
• Metallic/ Ceramic compound
• High performance
• Designed for 2-piston disc brake calipers
• Backing Plate Material: Steel
• Pad Shape Number: 22

b. (Balanced, leaning towards high performance)

• Model: P20.11 (Red)
• Overall Balance Performance Resin Pad
• Metal/ Ceramic compound
• High Performance
• Backing Plate Material: Steel
• Pad Shape Number: 22

c. Standard soft compound, rated okay for e-bikes

• Model: A10.11 (Black)
• Tektro Standard metal pad (backing plate)
• Less Noise Resin Pad
• Backing Plate Material: Steel
• Pad Shape Number: 22

d. Soft compound. Not rated or designed for e-bikes. For bicycles

• Model: E10.11 (Green)
• Low noise resin pad
• Organic compound
• Backing Plate Material: Steel
• Pad Shape Number: 22

3. How to choose which pad is best

Typically, it's a trade-off. More metallic brakes have greater stopping power, harder compound pads wear less and can last longer, but the discs will need replacing more often. Such discs are less than $20 from some sources, but there's also labor involved.

Regardless what you like, one thing is undeniable. The Ltd comes stock with E10.11 (Green) pads, the manufacturer says are not for e-bikes.
The A10.11 (Black) pads are the entry level, soft compound pads for e-bikes

4. My experience and conclusions

The green pads for 38lb Mountain bikes.
Absolutely unacceptable.

The Black pads (e-bike entry level), are for 'Tektro brake kits' to convert bicycles and entry level e-bikes.
No matter how you use it, the Ltd is not an 'entry level' - 20mph e-bike or converted bicycle.
We're talkin' a 100nm, 53 - 65 e-bikes that can exceed 30mph.
Absolutely, unacceptable.

My 'medium', leans towards higher performance and safety over less rotor wear.
I've done 3 1/2 f & r pad changes, always true to the stock pads.
After getting to the end of my stash of E10.11's, I thought I'd try the next step up, P20.11 (Red) pads on the rear caliper.
I'm running new (<100mi) set of green E10.11 pads in the front, the comparison difference is remarkable.
Quick break in and immediately the P20.11 (Red) pads are noticeably quieter/ more powerful than the stock E10.11.
Huh? The rear, that was always the weak point is now much the stronger?
Other things like minutely detectable shudders, now so distinctly absent in the rear are apparent in the front.
I've no idea why Tektro advertises the Green pads as "Quiet". The P20.11 Red are significantly quieter.
I prefer a happy medium leaning towards higher performance and safety.
Such lesser performance for less rotor wear isn't worth it to me.
Next I'll install on the front and we'll see.

Hope this helps others.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

In #22 size, Yellow (Gold) is the highest grade Tektro makes.
My small experience with Red (Second highest) was 'plenty of stopping power' on 65lb bike - with cheesy rotors.
No mistake, I'm hauling ass through hairy turns on some sweet asphalt - as fast as the bike will go with max power in the weak parts
That's the autopilot level.
Like shifting/ throttle/ brakes driving a rally car is autonomous level and can be dialed up, or down.
It's getting around the guy in front of you & the 's*it happens' / 'oops', but stay stuck on the plan to hit a time, when you said you would that no-one else in that class would sanely bet.
My aware level is assessing threats and unanticipated terrain changes - like a drunk lying in the street.
New or not, I'm dumping these horrid Green pads (I thought I was so diligently being a robot and installing) in front and using Red's.

Send me a pic of one of your pads, I'll post the pads ratings.
No idea how Greg knew 'June 1' would be the day China unleashed production again, but he called it when he called me and said there would be a delay so I had a nervous breakdown and made demands said 'it sounds like August delivery to me'. He wouldn't co-sign that either.
Pretty gun-shy, being accused of lying over circumstances out of their control.
Rome, I know you applaud the pursuit of excellence. We're in the game; s*it goes wrong; stuff breaks/ we make it twice as strong and stick with the pursuit. Ha Ha. Why I went 'ti'. Plastic is 'plastic'. 'Titanium is' - heirloom - 'forever material .
My point is, WW is like Colin Chapman's Lotus' when it started and - for a price, and being nice - we could obtain custom, adjustable (track ready) machines. It was a privilege.
WW will pull this off and I will get my bike - which I will make exactly the way I want it.
But yeah, I suspect your Gold (Yellow) pads are 'The Big Dogs'.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Jones H bars confirmed.
Red pads in the rear ....
... and still running Green in front

While the cassette and gears seem fine, I still don't like the awkward shifter either bashing into my thumb knuckle when I use throttle, or being in a weird position to reach over and up-shift.
It's my fault again. Not meant for throttle use, unlike when rolling your hand, your knuckle says fixed using just your thumb.

What was I thinking?
I was thinking about installing this Archer D1x wireless shifting I picked up on ebay.
The shifter itself is adjustable to 3 positions, over about a 20mm horizontal plane - for 22mm bars. Awesome!
Since I purchased, the price doubled. I'd saved it for my next mid-drive build, but time's flying and we only live once.
I know if I leave it on when I let this machine go, it won't be be worth any more that the stock set-up. Sigh - a buyer'll, like: 'what about that scratch'; is that modified; I can't tell what gear I'm in with that thing; where's the thumb throttle'?
I guess I can (go against my plan and add weight by leaving the cable in place and just disconnecting, running my D1x to shift gears., but not so much my style. Maybe trap myself like that, then do it right?

This may be a 'last chance' moment to load up on Rockbros stuff - gloves, rechargeable lights.
I just ordered a couple more of the 'round, 800 Lumen rechargeable's that take 18650s and work excellent (here aliexpress source).
These can be dual mounted in a flash and detached twice as fast.
The 'round' 800 Lumen' type with this particular clamp works correctly.
BEWARE: All the other sizes, types and extension types I've tried have problems that make them unsuitable. Regardless what you chose, the types using 18650 batteries - available everywhere - enables you to upgrade from 2000 to 3500watts
The 'screw handled' mount type (pictured) stands out' in setting RockBros lights apart.
Entirely tool less, sturdy, simple and elegant, the mount can be left on the bars and the light removed, or taken off entirely in 30secs.
It's easily adjusted while driving and it holds adjustment without 'jidder'.
Remove the light - click - and you have a powerful flashlight.

Sooooo, after trying them all, I've two of the above type mounts (and some junk in a bucket).
6hrs @1600s Lumens' all I'll need - if doing Alaska in winter - and each light has two lower levels.
I used to mount one, and keep a spare in my bag for 'nigh-crawling'.
Not 'crawling' that much, it came down to one - no spare needed.
Then it's 'not in use for a while', handy to take 30 seconds to detach and leave home, out of the elements when not needed.
It reduces theft and vandalism. Out of sight, out of mind.
No matter what videos show of 'any lock being broken', if your machine looks 'bare and bully', it'll be less of a target.

More mods that work to come !!!

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Latest: Also dumped those Green pads in front. Just failed at comparing with the Red.
Takes me 10mins now to change pads, fully adjusted.
Oh my, what a difference ! Now the front is grippier than the back and zero noise, stutter etc.
Absolute game changer.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

What upgrade fork makes sense for the Ride1Up Lm'td / 700/ 500/ Cafe Cruiser?

I hope this inspires and helps other Ride1Up and knowledgeable suggestions, corrections and sources.
In general this fork installation is no less applicable for the 500, 700 or Lm'td series bikes and certainly others.
If you've thought of changing out, here's some 'Fast n' Furious two cents' to save you some research and provide a few parts leads.

My Lm'td came with an Asteria, straight steerer, 80mm, w/ QR skewers.
Although it's called an 'MTB' fork, it's actually an 'entry grade of entry grade' of suspension forks.
In our segment, RockShox controls the market, so finding that out, I started research with their Recon and up, up up to the Lyric.
A member clued me in, "buy a used Yari and install Lyric Ultimate cartridges".
Huh? That LU is rated better than Fox 36. WOW ! For about $6 - 700.00 I could build a superbad ...
... but that's a huge travel (150 - 180mm), big (36mm) tubed, super strong stanchioned (read "heavy") fork.
At my light weight (138lbs), I just don't need 'heavy duty' and this is an aggressive City Bike, not an MTB - no matter titles advertising 'MTB' on their parts.
-
The forks I considered come with either the stronger 'thru axles', or QR's.
I happen to like my wheels and the stock tires are super. If it was a $1200.00 fork, that's different, but this is about upgrading to more comfort, capability and higher quality - that's supported by in-depth reviews; higher end in it's particular class and (choke, gag, cough) somewhat reasonably priced (I'd bet, a year from now you'll agree 'it was when I got it').
An axle upgrade requires a new hub/ wheel and this project is about replacing just the fork so I stayed with QR's.
-
Adding up it sums to: RockShox Judy Gold RL A3, 27.5', Air, 100mm, 1-1/8', QR, Rake: 42mm.
It's a higher grade version of a real 'MTB, entry level fork'.
The fork can come with (or come in a kit) remotes, that also has a dropper post control. I've read reviews that say I can remove tokens to go up to 120mm if I want.
Searching for the past few weeks, I finally found a deal at ModernBike for $356.00 total.
A Judy Silver's $230.00, but by using alloy where the Judy 'Silver' uses steel, the Gold loses nearly a pound of excess weight to come in at 1689gms. Both fit my 2.4" tires/ brake mounts - being bolt-on compatible with the old Asteria.
The Silver has a 'plug' available to upgrade it's strength. The Gold does not require one - already being stronger by it's crown's alloy.
It fits OEM on $4k - $5k market segment e-Bikes - Diamondback, Cube, etc.

-
My focus is DIY, but having an LBS cut, install the crown race and set the star-nut is sounding a lot smarter and more economical than buying the specialty tools.
I expect delivery in the next few days.
-
Crazy Mods
I'm watched a vid about grinding one ear off the compression nut to run lines down through the fork (ala BMX style).
I see other ways as well. Depending on the geometry of the new fork - whether the crown hits the exiting cable bundle that comes out the bottom and goes into the lower battery compartment.
These butted H-Bars bars are super strong and drilled (to attach fittings) by pros.
A wiring harness can be run through the bars (crimping on new connectors after wires are fished through).
By drilling a hole through the bars (behind the headstay) into the fork, wiring can go into and out of the bars, and down the fork tube.
Sounds like a bit of work to neaten a few wires, but I've redone virtually all wiring from the controller to the bars.

In that regard, replacing the 5 pin and 3 pin connectors with high-grade type, 22 wire and factory pressed pins that fit perfectly - the type used for LED's are perfect -

that have then hot glued (like our controller's are) has eliminated intermittent gremlins.

This post is already too long and about the fork, so I'll go over some wiring improvements in another.

Ride on !!!

Fn'F

 

[EmotionLynx6Pro]

Here is another fork that comes in about the same weight and should fit our Limited. The good thing is that it comes in at $300 at one seller, and $264 at another - about $100 cheaper than the Rock Shox.

Manitou Markhor Fork 27.5" 100mm Travel, 9mm Axle, Matte Black

Shop & Learn About The Manitou Markhor Suspension Fork In The Suspension Fork Collection - Features & Specs: Axle to Crown Length: 494, Brake Type: Post Mount 160 MPN: 191-34155-A001 UPC: 844171065785, Color: Matte Black - The Markhor is a light weight XC fork that can be adjusted down to 80mm...

www.worldwidecyclery.com

I saw it listed with another seller for $264

https://takeahikeshop.com/products/...MI-4DDgIz3-AIVDXxvBB00RAJjEAQYAyABEgLE7_D_BwE

An eBay seller has the 2021 model for $240, but its their last one and with eBay you always have to consider the possibility of counterfeit merchandise.

So far the Asteria is an okay fork. Its main problem is the stiction - it takes too much effort to get it moving because the seals are too sticky. So sometimes it doesn't react to small bumps. I tried to get it apart to lube the seals but couldn't figure out how to do it. I've rebuilt other forks many times in the past, but the Asteria stumped me.

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

I just purchased the tektro red pads and galfer 203mm wave 2.0 rotors and a new derailleur hanger.

The thing I’m struggling with is finding the correct adapters for the calipers. I initially ordered SM-MA-F203P, Plus 43mm Post Mount from Amazon but got nervous because the pictured adapter was SM-MA-F203P/PM

When I messaged the seller he confirmed that it was the incorrect adapter and sent me a different part number. However, when I google that part number I’m presented with a bunch of random knockoff adapters.

Can anyone who has done this upgrade advise what caliper adapter they used?

Kinda bummed because I was hoping to get everything put on before the weekend. And at 1100 hard ridden miles, I’m sure the stock pads are nearly toast

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Nice rotors!
Our bikes use Tektro.
If different, please advise what calipers you are using. Model, etc.
UniversalCycles shows it as item 9504-266061

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Big V is on to something and committed. It's great when I see people upgrading. I think some buy the Lm'td model for just that reason.
If you want an 'Unlimited Lm'td', 203mm discs/ higher grade brakes are in that picture somewhere.
I'm plotting on some MT5's and 203mm.
-
I found a little side-to-side play at the rear wheel.
To repair, the machine must be turned upside down. For me that means loosen display bolt and rotate out of harms way.
H bars are awesome, though tippier than conventional that rest the weight on the grip section.
I went in and it was the inner axle nut was 1/4 turn out. I adjusted to 'right before the drag kicks in', tested axles in the dropouts.
Play's gone.

Fn'F

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

Can we run this fork on the LMT’d? RockShox Recon Silver RL Suspension Fork 29" 100 mm 9 x 100 mm 51 mm Offset https://a.co/d/bELXjyz Appears to be both straight tube and quick release as far as I can tell…

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

Can we run this fork on the LMT’d? RockShox Recon Silver RL Suspension Fork 29" 100 mm 9 x 100 mm 51 mm Offset https://a.co/d/bELXjyz Appears to be both straight tube and quick release as far as I can tell…

Nevermind. I see it’s for a 29”

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

Nice rotors!
Our bikes use Tektro.
If different, please advise what calipers you are using. Model, etc.
UniversalCycles shows it as item 9504-266061

Fn'F

I ended up running the textro reds on the rear. I’m actually running a cheap meroca M4 4 pot (Clarks M4) on the front and I’m damned impressed with its performance. I got the set for $70 and had to swap the handles, but hey, it works.

Current setup is galfer wave 203 and meroca m4 4 pot and stock pads on the front and galfer wave 203 and stock tektro auriga on the rear with red pads.

I’m trying my best to hold off on installing the M4 on the rear since I have two sets of tektro reds. I’m also kind of dreading the hassle that installing the rear will entail

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Nevermind. I see it’s for a 29”

The 27.5 Recon or Judy straight steerer tube/ w skewers will work.
I'll be showing some photos of my Judy Gold. I love it. A bit tighter steering though.
Response as set by my LBS is great.
These folks ModernBike have everything

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

Awesome! I love to see it. I’ll be doing this upgrade in a couple weeks. Ordered a new Cane Creek Thudbuster 4g today.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I ended up running the textro reds on the rear. I’m actually running a cheap meroca M4 4 pot (Clarks M4) on the front and I’m damned impressed with its performance. I got the set for $70 and had to swap the handles, but hey, it works.

Current setup is galfer wave 203 and meroca m4 4 pot and stock pads on the front and galfer wave 203 and stock tektro auriga on the rear with red pads.

I’m trying my best to hold off on installing the M4 on the rear since I have two sets of tektro reds. I’m also kind of dreading the hassle that installing the rear will entail

That price is great for such tech if it lasts.
At Starbike, the Magura MT5's are $151.00 + $33 shipping for F and R - shipped from Germany.
Th 'E' type are $192.00, same shipping costs.

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

That price is great for such tech if it lasts.
At Starbike, the Magura MT5's are $151.00 + $33 shipping for F and R - shipped from Germany.
Th 'E' type are $192.00, same shipping costs.

I was so close to just going ahead and getting the mt5 front and time will tell if I should have. The reviews on the meroca were mixed and some people had leaking levers right away.

Fortunately, mine hasn’t had that problem and it bites much harder than the rear tektro.

It’s definitely not as sexy as the Magura though

 

[Vicariouscarrot]

The 27.5 Recon or Judy straight steerer tube/ w skewers will work.
I'll be showing some photos of my Judy Gold. I love it. A bit tighter steering though.
Response as set by my LBS is great.
These folks ModernBike have everything

What’s the difference between the Judy RL and Judy TK? There’s a pretty substantial price difference