Ride Quality of Pace 500

phoenixtoohot

Well-Known Member
How is the ride quality on different surfaces. I'm concerned that with no suspension, the ride might be harsh at 20 mph. I know about seat suspension, but I'm interested in the ride quality for the stock bike.

Also, I've read several posts about the abrupt takeoff in PAL 1. Some have said it takes a full pedal revolution to engage the motor, others said about 1/4 revolution. I would think a full pedal revolution before assist would be a deal breaker for me. Comments?

Finally, how is the effort to pedal at PAL 0? Could you realistically pedal 5 miles with no assist?
 
Ride quality is good. We have 2 500s. Find the right tire pressure and you'll be fine on different surfaces. I keep mine around 30 to 40 for a softer ride. If you are aware of the takeoff in PAL 1, it is a very good thing. When taking off from a stop, especially at an intersection is where is shines. You get moving faster and get out of the way of the intersection. People get in trouble when they're not prepared and/or have the front wheel turned. Around a 1/4 revolution is needed to activate it. There is no resistance that I've noticed at PAL 0, just the weight of the bike due to battery and motor. There is no resistance like you'll get on some mid-drives. This is one of the lowest weight ebikes in its class. 5 miles? On flat ground or on a downgrade wouldn't be a problem for me. I was looking at ebikes in the $2k - 4k range and glad I found the Pace 500.
 
It's about 1/4 turn to activate PAS, but one full turn to activate throttle only. You could pretty comfortably go "pedal only" with this bike for 5 miles anywhere you are able to ride a single speed cruiser for the same distance. You might have to work a little harder than you would on a cruiser depending on how many hills you have to climb, but there are 8 gears to help you out.
 
I ride my Pace 500 mostly with the electric assist turned off (PAS 0) for exercise. I ride a 25 mile loop and only use PAS 1 when I can't climb a hill in first gear. You really don't notice a difference between the Pace 500 in PAS 0 and a normal, non-electric bicycle.

I agree, run a lower pressure up front for a smoother ride. I run the minimum 35psi in the front and 55 in the rear (I'm 240lbs and mostly ride on pavement). I highly recommend adding a Suntour NCX suspension seatpost. It makes an amazing difference in ride quality including reduction in vibration and shock. Really, this seatpost is worth its weight in gold. It's not cheap at $115 from Amazon but it's worth it, especially if you plan to put a lot of miles on your bike.
 
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That sounds good ... you must get some serious range. We are also considering the Radcity bike and have arranged to test both the Aventon Pace 500 (Archer Bikes in Mesa AZ) and RadCity (PhatRide in Scottsdale) next week.
 
I was able to test ride a Pace 500 yesterday and had no problem whatsoever with the ride quality for a bike with no suspension. The bike is quite light for an e-bike (49 lbs) and is very easy to pedal at PAS level 0. I would have no issues having to get home on this bike if I ran out of battery. Nice bike, looks much more expensive with the semi integrated battery.
 
I have several ebikes with no rear suspension so i bought a Kinekt 2.1suspension seatpost and different shims so I can switch it easily depending on which one I'm using.
 
Besides the wider tires, the ride quality is helped by the front fork having a more forward rake, rather than straight down. This adds some flex in a rigid fork design. Also, with the pedal forward geometry, and the seat post having a similar rake, this takes some of the rider weight away from the front. Remember how you'd stand as a kid, when going over bumps, with the crank area acting as the 'pivot point' for the wheels to go over the bumps, reducing the jarring feel ? Well it's a similar principal except you don't have to stand to gain that similar benefit. Larger diameter wheels (27.5") have a better angle of attack for larger bumps too. And lastly the sidewalls on the Kenda Kwik's are more supple than a lot of tires, again allowing for a balloon tire effect and absorbing some road vibrations. Of course this is not a suspension front fork,but all in all, it's a pretty darn nice ride. Especially at that price point, and the power of it to take you anywhere at some pretty high speeds (if that's what you'd desire.) These designers at aventon definitely know what they are doing, and not just slapping any old frame together with a motor and battery. Plus I'd take a 50 lb ebike over a 65 lb ebike any day of the week, month and year. A number of my customers are reporting 70+ miles on level 1, with only a 11 ah battery. Unheard of for cadence sensing 500 watt, 48 volt ebike. Most over 65 years old and not physical specimens or super athletes doing that kind of range. Level 1 usually takes you at around 12 to 14 mphs ,so it's not like they are traveling at snails pace to get that kind of ride range. If you do run out of battery, it's very easy to pedal as a regular bike. That other one you are comparing is NOT.
 
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There are 2 reasons why Pace pedals better (without power) than RAD City:
1) RAD has Direct Drive motor, it creates drag when unpowered (all DD motors do, this is not brand-specific),
2) 65 lbs weight of RAD. Very heavy for non-fatty bike. Missing rack and lights on Pace would bring weight up to 52 lbs, - still better than 65.
 
Hub Drive though : I know not everyone can spend $3-4,000 on a Bike : But is it really worth spending 1/2 for something they is just ok ? I'm Older at 64 : When I Buy one I don't plan to keep changing it :
 
Hub Drive though : I know not everyone can spend $3-4,000 on a Bike : But is it really worth spending 1/2 for something they is just ok ? I'm Older at 64 : When I Buy one I don't plan to keep changing it :
 
Yeah they do : Obama Care destroyed my Income and Stole my Retirement : So I hear yah
As time goes on we will be seeing many advances in batteries, motors, power management chips, etc that will reduce costs and improve performance. The Pace 350/500 (I own both aLong with a few other brands) IMHO are 2 of the best entry level values on the market. See if there is a dealer nearby for a test ride.
 

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Hub Drive though : I know not everyone can spend $3-4,000 on a Bike : But is it really worth spending 1/2 for something they is just ok ? I'm Older at 64 : When I Buy one I don't plan to keep changing it :
Nothing lasts forever, you will have to fix "something" on your bike in a foreseeable future. Bikes under $2000 usually have lower-end derallieur (350 model has derallieur Tourney - the lowest in Shimano line-up, 500w model has it one step up). Though Tourney is what you would see on $400 non-powered bikes and it works for years and years. Shengyi hub motor of Aventon is not the same creature as Dapu hub motor of Pedego. Aventon battery is the same quality tier as those on $3,000-4,000 bikes.

Whether it will be good or just Ok for you particularly, there is no way to tell. Aventon do have dealers and you can get a test ride. There is a notable difference between 350 and 500 model, and it is possible that cheaper 350 would work for you better than more expensive 500.
 
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Nothing lasts forever, you will have to fix "something" on your bike in a foreseeable future. Bikes under $2000 usually have lower-end derallieur (350 model has derallieur Tourney - the lowest in Shimano line-up, 500w model has it one step up). Though Tourney is what you would see on $400 non-powered bikes and it works for years and years. Shengyi hub motor of Aventon is not the same creature as Dapu hub motor of Pedego. Aventon battery is the same quality tier as those on $3,000-4,000 bikes.

Whether it will be good or just Ok for you particularly, there is no way to tell. Aventon do have dealers and you can get a test ride. There is a notable difference between 350 and 500 model, and it is possible that cheaper 350 would work for you better than more expensive 500.
Hmm...Can you explain that last thing about the difference between the 350 and 500? I just received my 500. I'm almost 65, and I see a few problems I will have to get better at dealing with. One being stopped at a light, and when I can go, and it's a steep hill, how to get going, when I can't get the pedals moving! I haven't downshifted to the lowest gear yet. I will try that next time. This time, I walked the bike up the hill. UGGG. The other problem, is that I am in PAS 0 mostly. When switching to 1, it takes off after I use the breaks. I feel that level one should not do that. I have learned to keep my hand on the breaks. But I am wondering if I should have gotten the 350? Maybe I don't need so much power?
 
You will get used to the Pas 1 acceleration. Initially it's startling but you'll come to enjoy it. Always apply the brakes when coming to a stop, even when coasting to a stop squeeze that brake lever.
 
There are 2 reasons why Pace pedals better (without power) than RAD City:
1) RAD has Direct Drive motor, it creates drag when unpowered (all DD motors do, this is not brand-specific),
2) 65 lbs weight of RAD. Very heavy for non-fatty bike. Missing rack and lights on Pace would bring weight up to 52 lbs, - still better than 65.
EXACTLY the reason I chose the Pace over the Rad. I LIKE to ride without any assistance. The heavier the bike, the less able I am to do this. The drag adds even more weight, so you almost always need the assist. The Pace feels like a regular bike when it's not powered.
 
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