Removing the speed limit of 20 miles/hr

I've thought about it before. But have put it in the back burner since it's winter + lots of rain and I haven't ridden lately. It's a 104mm 4 bolt 42T chainring that's slightly offset. The only issue is anything bigger than 42T will be flat so that the current chainguard will be closer to the chainring & chain. Should still fit, it'll just be closer.

I thought about it because I'm almost always on 42x11. The top 3 freewheel gears are 11, 13, 15 i think. Using online gear calculators, 48x13 is very close to 42x11 and 48x15 is even closer to 42x13. So I can still use the gear ratio I usually use now and still have one higher if I need/want.
 
thatdude902 said:
I've thought about it before. But have put it in the back burner since it's winter + lots of rain and I haven't ridden lately. It's a 104mm 4 bolt 42T chainring that's slightly offset. The only issue is anything bigger than 42T will be flat so that the current chainguard will be closer to the chainring & chain. Should still fit, it'll just be closer.

I thought about it because I'm almost always on 42x11. The top 3 freewheel gears are 11, 13, 15 i think. Using online gear calculators, 48x13 is very close to 42x11 and 48x15 is even closer to 42x13. So I can still use the gear ratio I usually use now and still have one higher if I need/want.
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If you can find a larger 104 chainring, then the spacing is not a problem. At any bikeshop, or online you should be able to find chainring spacers. At any given time, I usually have 1,2,3, and 5 mm chainring spacers in my toolbox. You can stack them however you need to to get the desired chain line. Most people set up their chainline in the middle of the cassette, but since I am usually in the top 3 gears, I offset my chainline on the higher gears.

I have experimented with 42T, 44T, and 46T and have settled on 46T narrow wide. The reason I have settled on the 46T narrow wide is that it gives me 1 more gear (actually feels like a gear and a half) over the 42T. However, since you can't get something for nothing, it comes with a cost. It really screws with your cadence, it takes some time to work out your shifting. Also from my stats I have noticed that with the 46T my normal commute of 33K is about 4 minutes shorter. So I get to my destination about 4 minutes faster, but my average speed for the commute is about 2 kph slower (it was 4kph slower before, but I am gradually starting to shift earlier, it is so hard to change things since I have been doing the same route for so long). The reason it takes so long to get use to the shifting is that with the 46T chainring is about 1 1/2 gears different, so it always feels like a half gear off, the result is my cadence has dropped a couple rpm. I do have a 45T chainring that I was thinking of trying out, but I am not sure if I am lazy, or stubborn, but I want to make the 46T work, since the 46T is a narrow wide and the 45 is not.

46T is the largest I could find with a 104BCD when I was looking. If you wanted to go larger, then you will have to find a spider adapter. I have seen it before a long time ago, so it must exist somewhere. If you do a search I know you should be able to find a 4 bolt to 5 bolt spider adapter to 130BCD, where you should be able to get any size chainring that will fit over your original spider to fit.
 
FWIW, Narrow Wide chainrings will not run some eBike specific chains. I upgraded to a nice Wipperman Connex. It's an incredibly nice and well made, strong chain. But it won't run on any of my narrow wides.
 
Sai Kodi said:
I agree with everything that you all have said. I have come to a realization that perhaps the RadRover is not suited for my commuting needs. I need to travel 26 miles each way in the shortest time possible. The gearing makes it impossible for me to pedal it at anything > 18.5 mph for longer duration. I have definitely tried it multiple times and it is not comfortable.

Also, going in PAS 3&4, the battery seems to last 20-21 miles with some hills (Seattle area - hills are unavoidable). I tried to go down to PAS 3 and put more human effort but I have to be god to push this thing forward even on slight inclinations to maintain higher speeds due to the wider tires. I do like the comfort though. Well, this is the by far the most comfortable bike I have ever ridden. I have had my fair share of bikes (non-electric) but they dont compare to the level of comfort that RadRover provides. Also another thing I like about it is the throttle. Whenever I am tired after exerting too much effort to get it going at a higher speed, I did like the option of throttling my way. :)

I just dont think it is up for a 26 mile commute. I am planning to sell it out as I have upgraded to a better bike (at least so I think): "Haibike Xduro FullSeven S RX". I will receive the bike today and I am hoping it will be better in all aspects that I care about when compared to the RadRover of course at a significantly higher cost basis (times :)).

If any of you would want a RadRover, please reach out to me and I can sell you mine. Local is great (anywhere in Seattle).
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Hey Sai, how much do you want for your used RR and how many miles did you put on it? Thanks
 
Hi Priscila, I have already sold the bike and replaced it with a HaiBike. It was sold within 1 day of posting on craigslist.

Thanks for your interest.
 
I'm confused. What I would like to accomplish, is to not feel like the hamster in the wheel, when peddling down hill. Even slight declines and I'm reminded of the witch in the Wizard of OZ, peddling madly in the tornado. What chain ring tooth count will allow me to still have some pedal pressure up to 25mph?
 
Sai Kodi said:
I am looking to do some serious commuting on the RadRover during wet conditions. By serious I mean 26 miles each way 4 days a week. In order to do that, I want to be able to go at a much higher speed than being capped at 20 mph.

So I have 2 questions:
1. Beyond 20 mph - Has anyone been able to fool the system yet so it allows going above 20 mph? If so, how? I do understand that it will void the warranty and to be honest, I am past that blocker and am ready to set it free if possible.
2. Gearing - As of now, with PAS 5 and at 20 mph, its very difficult to keep up pedaling even in gear #7. Has anyone changed the cassette gearing to allow easy pedaling higher speeds?

I am new to the bikes world (transitioning from motorcycles). Still learning the terminology.

Note: Battery is not a problem since I intend to buy a second battery and carry it with me on the rack. Two batteries should be plenty enough to go 26 miles even at PAS 5.

Let me know what you guys think.
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I just broke brought home my brand-new, 4-thousand-dollar Haibike Sduro Trekking 9.5, was so excited but then this same day, easily getting to 20mph (not very fast for me on any standard geared bike) then the motor not only starts cutting out, as expected, but also feels like it’s intentionally “engine-braking “! I wouldn’t mind if it would just let me do my thing which is well over 20 but this is starting to annoy me already making me start to feel ill with buyer’s remorse.
 
remember when riding that drivers in cages see a bicycle. They expect us to be coming at them at 12-15MPH. I contend that atb30MPH I get 3-4 times as many drivers making left turns into my path. Speed kills. BTW in winter 10MPH in20F is Fooking cold!
 
Ronald Shepard said:
I just broke brought home my brand-new, 4-thousand-dollar Haibike Sduro Trekking 9.5, was so excited but then this same day, easily getting to 20mph (not very fast for me on any standard geared bike) then the motor not only starts cutting out, as expected, but also feels like it’s intentionally “engine-braking “! I wouldn’t mind if it would just let me do my thing which is well over 20 but this is starting to annoy me already making me start to feel ill with buyer’s remorse.
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I think you should look into seeing if your Yamaha system can be chipped. BikespeedRS is what I recommend. I recall testing four different 20mph bikes and they all had the same feeling that the motor could give more power but was being artificially limited.
 
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Thomas Jaszewski said:
remember when riding that drivers in cages see a bicycle. They expect us to be coming at them at 12-15MPH. I contend that atb30MPH I get 3-4 times as many drivers making left turns into my path. Speed kills. BTW in winter 10MPH in20F is Fooking cold!
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Yes, I can confirm this as pretty normal behavior of most drivers. I like running two lights, one steady one blinking, and wearing high viz gear when I'm out riding.
 
I'm thinking a modulating light like used on motorcycles and scooters would be better than blinking or flashing, which may well be illegal (flashing) in most states. Whereas modulating is not, by Federal Law.

"An important distinction that you should be aware of if you are considering the purchase of a modulator or defending its use, is that the modulating headlamp DOES NOT FLASH! Flashing is defined as the rapid turning on and turning off of power to the lamp. With a headlight modulator, the lamp never turns off, but rather power is varied between two different power levels at a specific rate of speed. Therefore it does not flash. It simply modulates (or pulsates, shimmers, twinkles or flickers, if you prefer)... Flashing lights are illegal on all but emergency vehicles. But Modulating lights are legal. But keep in mind that they are legal on motorcycles only. Automobiles are not permitted to have modulating headlamps."
 
Seems this thread wanders around? Yes, you can up the speed on the LCD. The RadRover won't go a whole lot faster but it won't "Cut-Out" at 20 mph either. I have hit speeds as high as 23 on the LCD, not sure how accurate that is. Like most once I pass about 18 mph it seems pedaling is just silly. I too come from Motorcycles and I love the Rad, although I have not given up my Motor Bikes. I don't have a set commute so I usually keep my range at not more than 20 and I can do that easy without even pedaling at all, as I can be lazy and just ride like it's a Scooter that I can break every law. I just went to YouTube the second day I got my Rad and followed along to up the speed, takes less than a minute and is not complex. I think the top is 25 mph, I have never seen that and as I said 23 on the speedo is as fast as I have seen on level ground with no wind.
 
Scooter said:
Seems this thread wanders around? Yes, you can up the speed on the LCD. The RadRover won't go a whole lot faster but it won't "Cut-Out" at 20 mph either. I have hit speeds as high as 23 on the LCD, not sure how accurate that is. Like most once I pass about 18 mph it seems pedaling is just silly. I too come from Motorcycles and I love the Rad, although I have not given up my Motor Bikes. I don't have a set commute so I usually keep my range at not more than 20 and I can do that easy without even pedaling at all, as I can be lazy and just ride like it's a Scooter that I can break every law. I just went to YouTube the second day I got my Rad and followed along to up the speed, takes less than a minute and is not complex. I think the top is 25 mph, I have never seen that and as I said 23 on the speedo is as fast as I have seen on level ground with no wind.
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I have to pass by two neighborhood radar speed signs on my work commute. I'm assuming those are somewhat accurate compared to what I get in my car when I drive by them. My Rad shows around 1-1.25 mph slower on the LCD than what is displayed on those radar speed signs. My Rad LCD shows 20.7-21.5 mph and the radar sign shows 22 mph with maybe a blip to 23 mph. I usually keep my PSI around 21-23 for work commuting on pavement and I have Vee8 120 tpi tires.

I've noticed in the LCD set-up screen you can input the tire diameter. We have 26X4 fat tires; but, they have a diameter closer to 29" tires. There isn't a setting for 29' tires? I wonder how much is the 26" setting is throwing off our mileage and mph?
 
mrgold35 said:
I wonder how much is the 26" setting is throwing off our mileage and mph?
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Calculating using online charts, you are going 25.65 when the speedo set for 26" tires reads 23.

"Your speedometer is reading how many revolutions your tires are making not how fast they are spinning. When you go to bigger tires the circumference of the tires is larger, meaning the distance around the tire is longer. Thus, with each revolution you are traveling further than before. Therefore your actual speed is higher than your speedometer reads."
 
Thomas Jaszewski said:
Calculating using online charts, you are going 25.65 when the speedo set for 26" tires reads 23.

"Your speedometer is reading how many revolutions your tires are making not how fast they are spinning. When you go to bigger tires the circumference of the tires is larger, meaning the distance around the tire is longer. Thus, with each revolution you are traveling further than before. Therefore your actual speed is higher than your speedometer reads."
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I have around 3800 miles between both Radrovers. Not sure how calculate my true mileage since I'm off on my mph along with miles traveled?

I have an 2006 Acura TSX and there was a class action lawsuit because of a 4% error in the speedometer that read a little high mph/total miles back in 2010. No money for owners, just and extra 2500 miles added to 4yr/50,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.
 
Mybest guess would be to calculate the difference as a percentage. As use that number applied to mileage. I have to think about that a bit.
 
mrgold35 said:
I have around 3800 miles between both Radrovers. Not sure how calculate my true mileage since I'm off on my mph along with miles traveled?

I have an 2006 Acura TSX and there was a class action lawsuit because of a 4% error in the speedometer that read a little high mph/total miles back in 2010. No money for owners, just and extra 2500 miles added to 4yr/50,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.
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Re: Speedo and Odometer Calculation

3800/23=165.21

165.21 x 25.65= 4237. actual miles Based on an answer found in another forum. But it seems to mnake sense.
 
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