Raise bar height Tero X

macp

Member
Region
United Kingdom
I seriously love my Tero X 5.0 but on longer rides I’m starting to feel pain in my shoulders & neck. Reducing seat height is helpful. But then knee pain starts to raise its head.

Anybody done it. Did you fit raise bars or change the headstock ?

Thankyou in advance.
 
How much would you want to go up? Easiest would be a replacement stem.
 
I have a different bike (Giant Stance E), but had the same issue.
I had extra rings I could install on the stem, not sure if yours are already on the bottom.
Also got a riser bar with +20 degree.
The most important thing to check is if your cables can take the additional height.
 
Rising the bar height will make your riding position more upright but more of your body weight would then rest on the saddle, making your butt hurt.

I rose the bar height on my Vado and Trance E+ when I was a noob. It took me a very long time to realise it was all wrong. Eventually, I have become my own bike-fitter for the Vado and Vado SL. Installing SQlab Innerbarends was the first step. I was gradually decreasing the bar height, and also installed pretty long stems on both e-bikes. All that put me into a sporty riding position with almost flat back. All my pains have gone.

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I cannot give you any good advice @macp but just let me tell you raising the bars is usually a wrong even if intuitive decision. Would a professional bike fitter talk with you?
 
I don't mind what you people do to your e-bike geometry but the handlebar being above the saddle level is the straight way to ruining your butt :)
 
in city traffic 90% of the bikes in cycling countries like NL, DE and DK the handlebar is way higher than the saddle. Also if you look at the pro peloton, there are many riders on a fit 3 geo and way les on a fit 1 just so that there are able to last al day in the saddle.

For power transfer it is indeed more efficient when the saddle is higher than the handle bar, but not in al situations.
 
With the rise of e-bike sales the average KM per ride on bike is still roughly the same, although on the individual office ride the current average is 22 km based on the branche figures. so besides to local pup ride or shopping the usage on bike to commute went up drastically. And indeed, these are traditional bikes where the handlebar is way higher than the saddle and people riding them are not in lycra, just their daily office gear. Funny to see that the commute per bike went up from 7 km to an average of 22 km in the Benelux
 
I seriously love my Tero X 5.0 but on longer rides I’m starting to feel pain in my shoulders & neck. Reducing seat height is helpful. But then knee pain starts to raise its head.

Anybody done it. Did you fit raise bars or change the headstock ?

Thankyou in advance.
I would choose to adjust the height of the handlebars, an incorrect riding position can cause shoulder soreness.
 
I had the same issue with my Tero X 5.0! Raising the handlebars definitely helped with my neck and shoulders.
Also, make sure your bike fit is dialed in properly — a professional fitting might help relieve both the neck and knee pain.
 
I just wanna make a remark.
Tero X is, technically speaking, an e-MTB. For all frame sizes (except Small) the handlebar width is a whooping 750 mm. The reason for a wide handlebar is retaining stability on steep climbs (your body weight is forward) and for high precision of steering on technical singletracks. A regular modern e-bike handlebar width is 660 to 680 mm.

Your aches people are not the outcome of low handlebars but of the handlebar width as you handle the grips wide apart.

Some people trim their handlebars; I am against maiming a good component. You could try SQLab Innerbarends 411 (the universal type). These grips are installed between the regular handlebar grip and the brake lever. You actually do not hold on the innerbarend; you rest the part of the hand between the thumb and index finger on the innerbarend, the part of the palm near the wrist rests on your regular handlebar grip, and you can delicately rest your fingers on the brake levers, which gives you an instant access to the brakes.

Innerbarends make your arms more than 20 cm closer to each other, giving a great relief to your body and making the ride more aero.

Raising the bars will start make you suffer after 20 km ridden with the guaranteed butt pain past the 40th kilometre. Innerbarends make your body position pain free.

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Everyone's body geometry is different and I've done both.. raise bars by changing to a bar with greater offset as well as trim'd a few mm off overall width. Greater width can give you better steering precision... But only if you're comfortable and not in pain.
I find holding the bars a little closer to shoulder width advantageous.
Everything is a trade off so don't shift too much weight to the saddle
 
I had the same issue with my Tero X 5.0! Raising the handlebars definitely helped with my neck and shoulders.
Also, make sure your bike fit is dialed in properly — a professional fitting might help relieve both the neck and knee pain.
The best advice. Randomly changing bike bits hoping for a better result is not always the best solution. A good fit takes one or two hours and possibly a follow up visit. Not cheap but can produce good results. Interview the fitter to ahead of time make sure they fit non-atheletes and are aligned with your goals.
 
I use a riser bar as I wanted to keep the original stem as it has a special slot to hold the computer display on my bike.

I have an 80mm rise (53mm above std) and a 50mm rise bar (23mm above std). The 50 was not high enough to alleviate my neck/shoulder pain hence the 80.

I am 6'7 and have a seat post that is 50mm longer than the standard post, and my seat is set about 35mm above what would be the min. insertion point on the standard post, so keeping the bars at stock height was simply never going to work for me.

I have my bars trimmed down to 700mm wide, and I use inner bar ends set around 39cm apart which is should width for me. Narrower grips are much more comfortable as Stefan says but where I disagree with Stefan is that there is no one size fits all approach to being comfortable on the bike - it is impossible to say that everyone would be most comfortable with everything in the stock configuration, there is a reason that everything is adjustable and why everything is available in different sizes. You can either experiment to find what works for you, or go to a fitter. But don't keep suffering keeping everything as is - if you're not comfortable then something needs to change.
 
If you do decide to raise your handlebars, Redshift has a new MTB riser bar that looks pretty cool. They have versions of this bar for road/gravel bikes and have started making a straight bar version for MTB's (or in this case EMTB's)

Good luck deciding what direction to go!!

 
I have my bars trimmed down to 700mm wide, and I use inner bar ends set around 39cm apart which is should width for me. Narrower grips are much more comfortable as Stefan says but where I disagree with Stefan is that there is no one size fits all approach to being comfortable on the bike - it is impossible to say that everyone would be most comfortable with everything in the stock configuration, there is a reason that everything is adjustable and why everything is available in different sizes. You can either experiment to find what works for you, or go to a fitter. But don't keep suffering keeping everything as is - if you're not comfortable then something needs to change.
Wait what? How dare anyone question Stefan (i.e. a self taught bike fitter)...what is the world turning into

Stefan is right in that you put more weight on your butt when you raise the bars...no question there, simple physics. It doesnt mean you shouldnt try different things. If you are having pain in your hands/shoulders you should address that first.

I have always tried to have my bars as low as possible to facilitate front end traction. There was a time my bar height was 2 inches lower than my seat height. It has slowly crept up over the years as I get older with more weight, less core strength and more accumulated injuries. These days my bars are 1/2 higher than my seat (as recommended by a fitter using a guru bike fit system)

I went to the fitter to address hip pain issues. I put in about 6k miles a year. Hip pain was getting to the point that I wasnt sure what would happen when I commited weight to my hip when getting out of bed in the morning and thought my cycling days were done. I have been using the method of seat height adjustment where you make sure you heel just grazes the pedal in its lowest position. I have been doing this since the early 90s. As it turns out this was way too high as I was rotating my hip when doing this adjustment causing excessive seat height. There was a point were I did my own video analysis and subsequently lowered my seat height by a full inch. The pain was better but not perfect.

My bike fitting was just over 2 hours and $250. While we focused just on seat height (ended up lowering it 10mm, moving it forward 10mm). Its amazing to feel the difference as tiny adjustments are made while you are actually riding and putting down power. At the end of all that we played with handlebar height(bar started out even with seat) and as he raised the bar height 10mm it felt like he had decreased the pedaling resistance. It was actually quite a big difference. Most hip pain is gone these days despite a pretty bad mtb crash on my hip which left me in crutches for a month (couldnt put full weight thru hip)

From that fitting we determined, I would likely be better off with the saddle being even more forward than what i could achieve on that bike so I built up a new frame with steeper seat tube. Any steering lost by raising the front end (less weight on front) was negating by moving my seat position forward on the bike. Another thing was that due to my body dimensions, I would actually benefit from a wider q-factor than I have on my BBSHD setup.

Sorry for the long winded description not related to handlebar height but it demonstrates how complicated bike fitting can be.

Before the fitting, I was also experiencing pain/numbness n the hands after 1/2 hour or so but fought lowering the bars. I went thru about 5 handlebar setups with different heights/backsweeps. I also went thru about 15 different grips.

The simple facts are:
Handlebar height determines how much weight is on you hands and butt and overall front end grip.
Grips and backsweeps control how that weight is distributed thru your hands

Simply raising the bar height 10mm has fixed my hand pain/numbness issues. Yes there is more weight on my butt...so what, life is full of compromises

I could have saved alot of time/money and pain by just going to a bike fitter first.
 
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The video brings up some interesting points.
Not everyone has a professional cyclist' physique... we're all built a little differently. Then you can add things definitely change as we age. All of the optimal fitment criteria are derived using the young fit professional cyclist model and I guarantee no one has spent the time/effort to research anything other. Then there's person bias that a fitter can add. And as mentioned in the video.. I'd bet each LBS would fit you a little differently.
I think that Guru system is a nice step forward as you're fit in motion and under load with no predetermination.
 
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