Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit

[Errol A Gettner]

Al, the 52v battery comes with its own mounting plate, I would like to use my original 48v rad battery as a backup or for use on a long trek, looking at Aliexpress they also have an empty shell battery case, would it be difficult to convert it for the 52v mounting plate.

Concerning the wires from the battery pack to the new shell.

 

[AHicks]

I'm not sure I'm following but I'll give it a shot. Normally, when updating to a newer battery, you would expect to match the existing wiring to the new battery wires with a pair of HD connectors. XT90's are often used as an example. So if I were going to wire up something like you're considering (an optional extra battery?), I would use an XT90 end on each battery, that would mate with an XT90 on the bike harness leading to the controller.

Wouldn't surprise me if a creative person came up with a new 52v battery in a case that could be matched to it with an identical case, then transfer the stock RAD battery to that case so he could interchange.

The only problem I could see with that would be concerning the low voltage cut off (LVC). The controller has this feature built in to protect your battery from an over discharge. Those are going to be different 48v vs. 52v and you would have to go into the display setup to change them each time the batteries were swapped (I think). You may be able to come up with a compromise setting, but I wouldn't take that idea to the bank.... -Al

 

[AHicks]

Direct bolt on? No, I would doubt it. At minimum, you would have to change the electrical connectors (bike and battery) to something that would match.

Will it bolt on to the down tube? Possibly. You'd have to pull the Rad battery and get your measuring stick out, referencing the dimensions in the 52v diagram to those used on the stock battery already on your bike. If modifications are necessary, whether or not you could make it work would depend on how creative you are!

 

[diffindiff]

Bolton Upgrade kits are available again. I'm going to wait a few months until the controller in his kits include a harness to power factory lights on 2019 models.

Same here...

Being impulsive and impatient as I am, I was also considering getting the current version and splicing together the head and tail light lines. I think I can live without the "brighter when braking" feature, or day time brake lights... just want to have the tail light on at night.

Is anyone using the upgrade kit on a 2019 rover? does this seem feasible?

 

[AHicks]

The Rover is likely the one it's used on most often I believe.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

The 35A controller will be the limiting factor. It won't draw more than 35A from the battery. Basically buying the 52v battery with the 40a bms over the 30a version buys some margin of safety as I'm not sure how the 30a version will handle 35a of power draw.

Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.

Also, the motor from Ali is no longer available.

 

[AHicks]

Would it be beneficial to change the six magnet sensor to the 12 magnet sensor on my 2016 Radrover? Quicker response? I've notice when using peddle assist on a slight uphill from a stand still the motor doesn't kick in till about 6 of 7 mph. maybe cause its harder to peddle up hill, slower to get around the magnets.

First, 6 magnet vs. 12 on the PAS sensor, I don't think you'll notice much difference in response time. Response should start from the time the first magnet passes the sensor, so 1/6 of a turn vs. 1/12 of a turn.....

Second, the motor should start providing assist as soon as the controller senses the pedals are being turned. Full power doesn't come right away though. It's a "soft start" setup so people aren't startled by the power coming on line. This was one of the big reasons I didn't care for RAD's controller set up and went with a KT system. When I'm crossing a busy street for instance, and I tell it to GO, I want it to GO NOW, not accelerate at a snails pace. When I tell it to go now, I had better be hanging on with both hands....

Finally, not familiar with the '16 RAD product, but no assist power below 6 or 7 mph doesn't sound right to me. That would not last long on my bike for sure. The throttle should be active from a dead stop, no different than the PAS should be active from the time the pedals start to move.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

First, 6 magnet vs. 12 on the PAS sensor, I don't think you'll notice much difference in response time. Response should start from the time the first magnet passes the sensor, so 1/6 of a turn vs. 1/12 of a turn.....

Second, the motor should start providing assist as soon as the controller senses the pedals are being turned. Full power doesn't come right away though. It's a "soft start" setup so people aren't startled by the power coming on line. This was one of the big reasons I didn't care for RAD's controller set up and went with a KT system. When I'm crossing a busy street for instance, and I tell it to GO, I want it to GO NOW, not accelerate at a snails pace. When I tell it to go now, I had better be hanging on with both hands....

Finally, not familiar with the '16 RAD product, but no assist power below 6 or 7 mph doesn't sound right to me. That would not last long on my bike for sure. The throttle should be active from a dead stop, no different than the PAS should be active from the time the pedals start to move.

I have the KT system and programmed it with the suggested settings in Bolton’s video. Using throttle has high torque & quick. With peddle assist in Pas 1, speed 6 on level ground no problem, just when I’m on a slight incline. Maybe I need to shift down, but with my old controller I didn’t have that problem. Just trying to figure what’s different.

 

[AHicks]

Ride it for a bit, if you haven't already, to see if you can figure it out. For the life of me, no power below 6 mph makes no sense at all.

Maybe try PAS 2 or 3 to see if increasing the power makes it easier to recognize when the power is coming on?

 

[Errol A Gettner]

Ride it for a bit, if you haven't already, to see if you can figure it out. For the life of me, no power below 6 mph makes no sense at all.

Maybe try PAS 2 or 3 to see if increasing the power makes it easier to recognize when the power is coming on?

Guess that's what I'll have to do, I like Pas 1 because you get the most exercise out of riding.

 

[AHicks]

If you are looking for "most" try 0!

I'm just thinking on 1 that there is so little power coming on early, that you're not recognizing it.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

If you are looking for "most" try 0!

I'm just thinking on 1 that there is so little power coming on early, that you're not recognizing it.

Ya, on level path you can use "0", that's not the point, you need at times some assist with a 65 lb ebike.

 

[AHicks]

I'm not that big on the "exercise" bit of the experience. I go riding to enjoy myself while being outdoors. Point there, to each their own.

Sticking by the advice to try a higher level of assist. This will assist in troubleshooting the bike to see if there is something wrong with it. If you feel the assist right away at higher PAS levels, you can get into the display parameters (P14?) and raise the assist level in PAS 1 to something that will accommodate what you are looking for better.

Another hint may be provided by watching the number of watts being used on the display. Watts down around 30-40 may be difficult to detect. By time you're up over 60 or so, that level should be easily detectable.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

I'm not that big on the "exercise" bit of the experience. I go riding to enjoy myself while being outdoors. Point there, to each their own.

Sticking by the advice to try a higher level of assist. This will assist in troubleshooting the bike to see if there is something wrong with it. If you feel the assist right away at higher PAS levels, you can get into the display parameters (P14?) and raise the assist level in PAS 1 to something that will accommodate what you are looking for better.

Another hint may be provided by watching the number of watts being used on the display. Watts down around 30-40 may be difficult to detect. By time you're up over 60 or so, that level should be easily detectable.

Thank You, the C14 setting is set at 2, I'll play around with different settings & higher PAS setting to start from a dead stop.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

Thank You, the C14 setting is set at 2, I'll play around with different settings & higher PAS setting to start from a dead stop.

Found my problem after watching Bolton's video again. When peddling backwards my tire was spinning, change setting on C1 from a 4 to a 2. Now going up a slight incline is Pas 1 the ebike is running right.

 

[AHicks]

Congrats on figuring that out! That would have been a head scratcher for anyone!

 

[Seattleboatmatt]

I've been running Bolton's 35a controller and color lcd kit (LCD8H) for about 40 miles now on an other-wise stock 2018 Rad Rover (14-34 free-wheel). The acceleration is awesome. I can now draw 1200w+ for a short time when I start accelerating. My top end isn't affected much except when I'm going down hill. The new controller will let me go beyond 26mph. The motor's heat hasn't bothered me much yet and I haven't seen a huge reduction in range. That said, I would be a little worried using full throttle or using pas 5 on large hills.

I just made the controller installation more permanent with some tire tube around the handle bars for the display. I also used some tire tube between the controller and the seat tube. I then zip tied the controller to the seat tube. I sprayed Corrosion-X into the controller and connectors before re-securing everything.

I attached the programming guide for the KT-LCD8H to this post for reference.

 

[Errol A Gettner]

I've been running Bolton's 35a controller and color lcd kit (LCD8H) for about 40 miles now on an other-wise stock 2018 Rad Rover (14-34 free-wheel). The acceleration is awesome. I can now draw 1200w+ for a short time when I start accelerating. My top end isn't affected much except when I'm going down hill. The new controller will let me go beyond 26mph. The motor's heat hasn't bothered me much yet and I haven't seen a huge reduction in range. That said, I would be a little worried using full throttle or using pas 5 on large hills.

I just made the controller installation more permanent with some tire tube around the handle bars for the display. I also used some tire tube between the controller and the seat tube. I then zip tied the controller to the seat tube. I sprayed Corrosion-X into the controller and connectors before re-securing everything.

I attached the programming guide for the KT-LCD8H to this post for reference.

Thank You, I've been looking for that programming guide!

 

[spmckinnon]

I've recently run into some issues with my controller shutting off automatically. Check this thread. Looking for advice.

Power turning off intermittently - please help!

Hey guys, I've got a weird problem, my bike keeps turning itself off intermittently. It doesn't happen under full load and typically happens at idle or low power use, any thoughts on where to start debugging? I don't think its a loose cable as going over bumps doesn't seem to trip the cutout and...

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