Rad Power Bikes in General

Checked it today with a 70% charged battery. PAS 1 bounced between 32 and 64W, mostly on 32. So maybe 45W average? But I think the intent is PAS1 is the training wheels mode, that you use for the first 5 minutes then never go back to. But, if there's only 4 other PAS settings, it's a waste of a setting.

The rover does fine in ~60W "walk" mode, scoots up stairs and drags you up steep hills. I just wish there were a 1/4 and 1/3 power option for longer rides. I'd also be willing to give up the PAS 4 (2/3rds power) to get those, since I usually ride at PAS 3 (1/2 power) and only use PAS 5 (or just twist the throttle) to catch a green light or to pull out of a bonk on a hill.

I am aware of the Bolton upgrade option. 1500w sounds exciting until you think about your range (10 miles?), and that urban biking at 25mph is already scary enough. I'm still glad the option is there.

Speed is dependent on voltage, since you are not upgrading the battery top speed is unchanged. However on inclines you will have more torque because the Bolton controller can provide more current.

In practice you probably would use that extra torque for short bursts only, range should not change that much.
 
Speed is dependent on voltage, since you are not upgrading the battery top speed is unchanged. However on inclines you will have more torque because the Bolton controller can provide more current.

In practice you probably would use that extra torque for short bursts only, range should not change that much.


Kinda...

There ARE locked down OEM limits on a RAD bike's top speed. Those will not be there with a Bolton kit, or they will be what you decide they should be. It's now YOUR call, not RAD's...

If it were not for those OEM limits, I'd agree with you - regarding top speed.

The fact the kit is able to supply more amperage is a factor not only when it comes to hills, but accelerating from a stop as well. You'll notice that when crossing a busy road for instance. The bike will go right now if you tell it to...

There no longer a hesitation, "spool up" time, or "soft start" in play when you tell it to go. With the Bolton kit throttle response is immediate. Nothing that's going to "wheelie" on you, but you WILL hang on with both hands!

I do agree that once you can see what it's able to do, most will keep that in mind and use it only as necessary. That's why I have my power limited to 1100 watts. That's all I need... -Al
 
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No no no no!
Bolton's kit not using ANY extra power! Not until you tell it to, and that's dependent on your setup, the one the YOU have control over! No more OEM lock down!
I didn't say it was, just was referring to the attraction of the aftermarket controller, that you can access as much wattage as the battery is capable of (you mentioned 1500W, though I've heard more like 1350-1400w). But if I'm going to get that, plus likely the direct drive motor that performs better than the geared hub at higher speeds, then I'm also going to kick my ass around the block for not buying a bolton 26" fatty ebike in the first place, instead of spending $1500+$440 and doing at least two hours labor to have a slightly inferior bike for $60 less. (disclaimer, $1500 was a stretch for me at the time).

And to get this back on track, dropping $220 plus my installation labor to fix a PAS 1 and 2 software configuration problem that shouldn't be there in the first place bugs me. When I say "problem", I can see their motivation for shipping the bike with presets that work for first-timer and heavier riders. But there isn't much excuse for not letting us change those presets within the pedal-assist level 2 legal regime.
 
I didn't say it was, just was referring to the attraction of the aftermarket controller, that you can access as much wattage as the battery is capable of (you mentioned 1500W, though I've heard more like 1350-1400w). But if I'm going to get that, plus likely the direct drive motor that performs better than the geared hub at higher speeds, then I'm also going to kick my ass around the block for not buying a bolton 26" fatty ebike in the first place, instead of spending $1500+$440 and doing at least two hours labor to have a slightly inferior bike for $60 less. (disclaimer, $1500 was a stretch for me at the time).

And to get this back on track, dropping $220 plus my installation labor to fix a PAS 1 and 2 software configuration problem that shouldn't be there in the first place bugs me. When I say "problem", I can see their motivation for shipping the bike with presets that work for first-timer and heavier riders. But there isn't much excuse for not letting us change those presets within the pedal-assist level 2 legal regime.

I agree that the OEM's (ALL of them, not just RAD), should be more flexible when it comes to their software. It's not like it's rocket science.

And I would also agree that 220. is a lot to pay for fixing just the PAS 1, 2, and 3 calibration issues. My intent was to share the fact there would be bonuses within that package that might help justify the price.

" I am aware of the Bolton upgrade option. 1500w sounds exciting until you think about your range (10 miles?) "

Pardon me for thinking this statement read like you might be concerned about extra power consumed with a Bolton conversion. I see now you meant if it's available, you're going to use it.

Last, unless you plan on spending most of your time at speeds over about 15mph, you might think twice about trading a gear drive for a direct. Sure the direct drive is capable of higher speeds, but they are gutless when accelerating from a stop and on hills, especially hills at speeds under 10mph. That is until you start talking about a LOT of power, like 3-4000 watts....... -Al
 
Rad is a price point ebike, I'm very happy with our two purchases for our use, camping and riding local trails for older riders. For those of you who want an ebike that is performance orientated spend more money, but don't knock what works for others, just because it doesn't meet your requirements and work for you.
 
. I picked up a a bafang three amp charger, that I use if I need a fast charge. It will charge the battery from dead to fall in about four hours. Mine have been reliable, easy to adjust, and just work .
Hello,
May I ask for a link to the battery charger you bought?

Thank You,
Mike
 
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