Rad mini upgrade

[SteveDumont]

I’m wondering if anyone has done the full power upgrade on the Rad mini. I have a 35 amp controller and display on order and am contemplating ordering the 750watt motor as well. Is this overkill for the mini? Also is everything plug and play like it was for the rad rover? The power upgrade on the Rover was definitely a great improvement.

 

[rad-ical]

I put the 25A controller on mine (because it fits ...JUST.. in the 2018 frame box) and that was definitely worth it. My 750W motor arrives tomorrow.I'm expecting a boost in acceleration and hence take off, but the existing motor is already pulling 1200W peak (48v x 25A) already so I can't feed it any power power unless I fit he 35A in due course.

 

[SteveDumont]

I have the 2020 rad mini step thru. I bought it as a spare for company or any extra person to ride with my wife and I. I have a 2019 Rad Rover with the 3 upgrades purchased in the USA. My wife has the 2020 Rad City 3 step thru. My bike purchased in USA would go to 750 watts but the mini will top out at 500watts currently. Needs a power boost. Just not sure if it needs the motor as well.

 

[FocusOnBikes]

I just installed 35amp controller and color display from Bolton Ebikes onto my 2019 Rad Mini. All plug and play! Was only able to attach to frame by single bracket (original) but it does seem secure. I added a couple of zip ties to keep it in place and was thinking of using a hose clamp with an old inner tube to protect the finish, but honestly, it's very secure without hose clamp. One note about the motor cable connection is that the arrow indicators do not line up! They are about 1/8 of a turn off, but if you check the pin orientation, you'll be ok. As far as programming the display, watch Bolton's YouTube video and also CitizenCycle YouTube video for detailed settings. Another annoyance is that the tire diameter setting goes from 20" to 23" and the Rad Mini actually needs 22" to be accurate, but that being said, 23" is not too far off. As far as performance, with the C5 setting set to 7, I can almost do wheelies and overall, is a big improvement from original controller. Since I like to pedal and I'm riding mainly for exercise, I think the 750 watt motor upgrade would be overkill. You will get your biggest "Bang for the Buck" performance with just the controller and display upgrade. CitizenCycle also has a video showing how each upgrade (controller, motor, 52amp battery) improved performance and he concluded that the 52amp battery upgrade costing +$500 only slightly improved the top end. The color display is a big improvement from original and shows much more useful info (voltage & watts, ambient temperature, time riding, brake indicator and indicator for pedal assist or throttle). I am very satisfied with the controller upgrade!

 

[SteveDumont]

Decision made.....750 watt motor on order from electroworld.

 

[ExPatBrit]

Decision made.....750 watt motor on order from electroworld.

Don't forget to buy a freewheel or the special tool to swap the old one.

 

[SteveDumont]

I ordered a couple of tools. They will have to be modified for use. First conversion I did I had to buy a new cassette as I ordered first motor from Bolton. Electroworld comes with a new cassette. Still waiting for a controller and display ordered from Bolton on June 24th.

 

[ExPatBrit]

I ordered a couple of tools. They will have to be modified for use. First conversion I did I had to buy a new cassette as I ordered first motor from Bolton. Electroworld comes with a new cassette. Still waiting for a controller and display ordered from Bolton on June 24th.

Are you sure it's a cassette , don't think it's possible?

My Rover has a freewheel.

 

[SteveDumont]

Freewheel is probably the right name. I bought a new freewheel after two bike shops were unsuccessful taking off my original one.

 

[rad-ical]

Fitting a new freewheel on your new 750W motor also means you will have a backup motor and freewheel, easily installed in about an hour or less as piece of mind, should something go wrong with the new kit or the installation thereof.

 

[FocusOnBikes]

Here is another take on how to set the controller settings. There are quite a few subtle adjustments regarding full torque and how the battery display shows you remaining battery charge.

 

[SteveDumont]

Thank you for the video. I just changed my P2 setting to 6 and it corrected my speedo problem right away. When I would break or stop the throttle my speed would jump to max. Thanks again!!

 

[KenM]

Here is a manual for the KT-LCD8H display …………. not the crappy 2 page instruction sheet that comes with it, but a full 41 page manual. I set mine up using this and I have it all working the way I want, with options for future experimentation.​

 

[Bmr4life]

How much current can the stock Rad Mini battery provide? I've been looking for a reliable and powerful 20" folding fat bike for a week and choices are very slim.

 

[Bmr4life]

The max current of battery is irrelevant if you're using stock (or weak) controller.

Though stock controller might be sufficient for you, I don't know.

This is an upgrade thread. I already know that I want at least a 750w nomimal motor. I've already seen that upgraded Rad Rovers can pull too much current sending their battery into protection mode.

Yeah, the cells can do 32amps but what is the BMS set to.

 

[AHicks]

I'd just like to note/share that the entire interior of that battery pack is wired with 14ga wire, which is rated for about 15a continuous. It will surely handle more than that short term (until it gets hot), but the wire size is one more factor you need to keep in mind when shooting for the moon with huge amperage capacity ideas.

My point is, you need to be (carefully) watching the whole package (motor, controller, battery, and WIRING) when considering just how hard you want to push it.... and how long you might want to do that! Lots of potential for expensive lessons here.....

Just sayin....

 

[EBJ]

How much current can the stock Rad Mini battery provide?...

I know the "Power Meter" section of the display on the 2020 RadMini 4 isn't NIST calibrated but I have no reason to believe it grossly over exaggerates what the bike is doing, so;

Assuming a relatively fresh off the charger 48V nominal battery is somewhere between 48 and 54 volts, if my display is maxing out at ~750 Watts in PAS 5 or full throttle, then VxA=W would tend to indicate that the battery is supplying somewhere between 13.9 and 15.6 Amps. The battery is obviously capable of supplying more since prformance can be increased by installing a 35 Amp aftermarket controller, I'm just saying that's what the stock Rad controller allows in reality.

My Mini easily outclimbs my old Rover (both stock). There are times I find myself thinking more power would be nice but after I remind myself to be objective, I keep coming back to the same two points:

My desire for more power becomes way stronger as the battery fuel gauge display goes to 3 or less bars, and a 35 Amp controller isn't going to have a huge effect on that problem.

On very steep trails with many rocks/roots/ruts, the front end of my Mini has gone airborne and climbed out from under me, twice (broke a $25 Hafny mirror each time).
More power would only make it more difficult to control.

 

[AHicks]

If you are looking for an available max wattage number from the stock RAD battery to use for short blasts, I KNOW it will supply 1500w or so. That's what my setup (MAC 12t motor w/35a KT controller) will pull. My controller is nearly identical to what Bolton sells, but I use a much beefier set of wires from the battery to the controller and a heavier battery connector (Anderson).

That said, I have it dialed back to maybe 1100 or so in the parameter settings. So I don't overload anything, and that's all I need. This motor will take this fat butt up the steepest hills in my area using just PAS 3.....

I've had it wheelie out from under me too, leaving me flat on my back. At 70 years old, I don't need that crap.....

 

[razz]

I just installed 35amp controller and color display from Bolton Ebikes onto my 2019 Rad Mini. All plug and play! Was only able to attach to frame by single bracket (original) but it does seem secure. I added a couple of zip ties to keep it in place and was thinking of using a hose clamp with an old inner tube to protect the finish, but honestly, it's very secure without hose clamp. One note about the motor cable connection is that the arrow indicators do not line up! They are about 1/8 of a turn off, but if you check the pin orientation, you'll be ok. As far as programming the display, watch Bolton's YouTube video and also CitizenCycle YouTube video for detailed settings. Another annoyance is that the tire diameter setting goes from 20" to 23" and the Rad Mini actually needs 22" to be accurate, but that being said, 23" is not too far off. As far as performance, with the C5 setting set to 7, I can almost do wheelies and overall, is a big improvement from original controller. Since I like to pedal and I'm riding mainly for exercise, I think the 750 watt motor upgrade would be overkill. You will get your biggest "Bang for the Buck" performance with just the controller and display upgrade. CitizenCycle also has a video showing how each upgrade (controller, motor, 52amp battery) improved performance and he concluded that the 52amp battery upgrade costing +$500 only slightly improved the top end. The color display is a big improvement from original and shows much more useful info (voltage & watts, ambient temperature, time riding, brake indicator and indicator for pedal assist or throttle). I am very satisfied with the controller upgrade!

Also have the radmini-4. Looking for another battery. Did you buy a third party battery for your radmini? As you've mentioned its 52 amps?

Can higher amp batteries work with existing controller on the rad-mini? Do you have the 750 watt motor? I have the 500 watt motor, as it is a Canadian version. Wondering if the upgrade to 750 be more worth while when going from 500 to 750. Hmm.