is there a way to tilt the Ortlieb hanger (not sure what else to call it) that attaches to your rack (possibly without the MIK deck) so that the bag angles up, away from the ground, like this
or maybe even a more extreme angle? This might put the bag just out of heel strike range.
2019QuickE
New Member
Good suggestion, but not really.
The problem comes back to the lower attachment point of the QL3 system and the Giant rack. Traditional Ortlieb and other attachment systems, usually allow you to slide the bottom attachment point to one side of the bag along with adjusting the top to tilt the bag away as you suggest. I’ve had other Ortlieb bags that I’ve done the angling with and it works great.
Because the QL3 has a wire frame that fixes the bottom attachment precisely between the top two mount points, any angling of the top points must pivot about the bottom attachment point, which means that by angling it you are actually moving the top of the bag closer to your leg, while the problematic bottom corner stays exactly where it is. It wouldn’t really be an issue on racks with more rectangular frames, but because the Giant rack has a diagonal stay, placing the bottom point to the rear of that stay as high up as possible is the only way to get the bottom of the bag as far away as possible, unfortunately, because of the design of the QL3, the diameter of the rack tube and the angle of the stay, you need to use the solution outlined above to connect it in this position.
Does anyone know what the biggest size tyre that can fit on the 2019 quick-e? Mine came with 27.5x2.25 Schwalbe g-one but I had the rear blow out and have a 2 inch wide gash in them. I've bought some emergency 27.5x2.0 tyres but I really like the the bigger ones. Is anyone riding with say a 27.5x2.4? If so any issues with clearance or frame rub?
Thanks
Thanks
I'm new to the forum and new to ebikes. I thought I'd share a photo of my Quick -e+ with the Giant MIK rack and Basil mik trunk bag installed. I also replaced the grips with something more ergo. This morning I decided to replace the pedals with HT composite flat pedals. Love this bike.
Attachments
Berserker26
Member
Ok it can't be this hard. Installing the Speedbox 2. Do you shove all the cables back into the frame? Also the speed sensor comes from underneath and doesn't look like there is a channel for it to slot back into.
I've been at this for an hour and cannot for the life of me get the motor to go back in.
I've been at this for an hour and cannot for the life of me get the motor to go back in.
Alan111S
Member
You have to kind of put the cables up the tube where the battery sits on top of. Just make sure the connections are good as you don't want to have to disassemble again !
Good Luck!
Berserker26
Member
Thanks Alan, are we talking every cable? Or leave some to have some slack around the top of the motor? Above where the big main bolts go. I can see some room above there and am wondering if the space is supposed to be used. Or no, just shove everything up the downtube?
Berserker26
Member
Ok I got it installed. Took 4 hours, finally cracked it and shoved the cables back into the frame. Hard. Now riding unrestricted, this is how it's supposed to be, 40kph up to about 42 then cadence starts to get uncomfortable. What sux is that now I have creaking :-(
alasdair
New Member
12,000 Mile Review
For those interested in the long term viability and cost of a bike like this, I thought I'd add in my experience with my 2017 Quick-E. I've had it a little over two years and its main use is a commute between 6 and 20 miles each way M-F, and a grocery getter/kid hauler the rest of the time. I have the US spec Class-3 model and almost always use the highest power setting. I'd say I'm an 'intensive' user, I ride it a lot and ride it hard. it's a size small and weighs 21.5kg. I live in Los Angeles which is hot and dry, most of the roads I ride are fairly hilly. I got it as a very fast commuter and a work horse and has been great at both.
Drivetrain
its been through 3-4 chains and 2 cassettes. Wear seems consistent with other non-e bikes I've had, surprisingly, and 10-speed parts are relatively cheap. I've oiled the chain every few months (it's dry here in LA) but have given it no other servicing otherwise. It has been incredibly durable and reliable through the years. I 'converted' to 1x around a year ago as I don't think I've ever used the inner chainring. This consisted of removing the shifter and mech, and adding on a chain guard.
Wheels and brakes
The original wheels lasted well, although they were a bit stiff and heavy. I probably could have saved them with a thorough overhaul but instead upgraded to a new set of tubeless wheels. I got an incredible deal on eBay and set them up tubeless - I would recommend this to all owners - saves 750g and should be much better at handling punctures (of which I've had maybe 8 since I got the bike). They also ride nicer (I am 155lb). I swapped tyres almost immediately on buying the bike to WTB Horizons and have gone through 2-3 sets it the 12k miles. All very impressive considering a 50lb bike at 30mph on LA's crappy roads - It takes some big hits and the original wheels did tremendously well. The stock Shimano brakes work very well. I had anticipated changing these as they retail for like $25 and I had low expectations, but have been amazed that the actually do a good job. Pads don't last long (every 2000 miles or so on the front) but they are cheap and easy to swap out. I think the fluid is original and I just changed the rotors with the new wheels.
Battery and Motor
I don't know the number of charge cycles on my battery but it must be in the 400-500 range. That said it still holds around 65% of its original charge. If anyone knows of how a battery refresh, or upgrade to better cells works - please reach out to me as I'd like to be back to the original range or better. I occasionally get error codes but don't have the diagnostic tool to read them. all of them go away with a power off/power on, save for when the bike overheats. I only get this on hotter days on a long climb - above 85deg climbing on full power for 10min+ so it's mostly avoidable, but annoying when it happens. I let it cool off by peddling without the power, then reengage after a few minutes. Two chargers (one at home and one at work) have been useful as 20 miles of full power and peddling hard leaves me somewhere under 50% battery.
Cargo
I commute with a large pannier and 25lb of laptop/coffee/books/clothes etc on me everyday, hundreds of times in total and the low profile rack has never let me down. There's plenty of heel clearance (I have 10.5 feet) and having the bag lower helps with handling. I've seen a lot of people annoyed at the lack of a proper rack on the bike, I guess everyone has different needs but I can attest to the provided rack being very useful, as well as looking a whole lot sleeker that anything that would replace it. I have a child seat that I use 2-3 times a week and a front rack/basket on it and can happily carry a weeks worth of grocery's, my three year old son and a 5 gallon jug of water all at once. I could carry 4 panniers, a child seat and the basket and am confident the bike could handle it. I'm really impressed here as I initially bought it to go fast, and the extra utility is a huge bonus.
Lighting/Electric
The original light was junk. it was a little scary past 15mph as it didn't light up enough of the road to be confident. Replacements are kinda limited as it seems the Yamaha system only allocates 0.7A to the front light - not enough for most lights out there. I replaced it with a Supernova E3 V6s which was at least twice as bright but very expensive. it was great until it broke and I replaced it recently with a much cheaper (but still very effective) lezyne Hecto E50. These are super cheap and a worthy upgrade. Has anyone had success with anything brighter? Other changes were removing the computer bracket and hiding the control screen as I never need to know what speed I'm going and almost never need to know the battery level. It was an eyesore and I saved 300g (the mount is a beast!)
All in its a great bike and I would say it has saved me thousands of dollars I would have spent on a second car/gas/insurance etc. it's fun enough to ride and still feels like a bike, and I still get a kick out of accelerating past traffic on my daily commute - it can genuinely 'do it all.' It probably costs me $4-500 a year in electricity and consumables for the mileage I do, not accounting for all the extra food I eat!!
Things I don't like
1. I cannot fit a larger front chainring. On long descents I spin out fairly regularly and would like to have a slightly larger gear. The chain stays bulge out restricting the size to 38T.
2. The screen is massive and the information isn't particularly useful. probably a personal thing but I would like to see a more seamless integration of the electronics like the specialized bikes with just a small control pad.
3. the power is all low down, at low cadences. above 80rpm there is a noticeable drop-off in assistance. Probably due to the lack of gearing in the motor.
4. Ride can be a little jarring. overbuilt alloy frame and fork. Wheels have helped here but still..
5. a faster charger would be nice - I think the stock one is 3.0A, it's ok, but not great. Is there a faster option?
Future plans
1. Comfort - has anyone used something like this suspension stem? I think I might try it, and the seat post next. part of me wants a fork like a Lauf, might try make it fit one of these days. $$
2. change the tyres to WTB Byway and explore some of the local fireroads with my kids. $
3. a new, brighter rear light - any advise here would be appreciated. $
4. since I can't get a bigger chainring, I might try SRAM's XD gearing as I could go to a 10T on the back, increasing the gear a little. Kinda expensive as I'd need a new shifter, mech and a free hub and cassette to make it all work. $$$
5. Is there was a well integrated, 28mph cross/gravel bike with rack mounts that's <20kg. Anyone know of one? Id probably upgrade. $$$$
6. get rid of those zip ties
I've had 'upgrade fever' for the last year but honestly can't think what I'd upgrade to. There are more expensive/exotic bikes but all seem to be heavier with useless (to me) extra features. This might all sound like an ad, but this has been all very positive, the best bike I've owned. I need light, fast and simple with good cargo capacity and haven't seen anything that seems to do all of these better. I've not been nice to it, never cleaning it, rarely oiling it, thrashing it daily and it's never left me stranded. good work Giant!
Happy to answer any questions, and would appreciate any wisdom you all have on the above!
AF
For those interested in the long term viability and cost of a bike like this, I thought I'd add in my experience with my 2017 Quick-E. I've had it a little over two years and its main use is a commute between 6 and 20 miles each way M-F, and a grocery getter/kid hauler the rest of the time. I have the US spec Class-3 model and almost always use the highest power setting. I'd say I'm an 'intensive' user, I ride it a lot and ride it hard. it's a size small and weighs 21.5kg. I live in Los Angeles which is hot and dry, most of the roads I ride are fairly hilly. I got it as a very fast commuter and a work horse and has been great at both.
Drivetrain
its been through 3-4 chains and 2 cassettes. Wear seems consistent with other non-e bikes I've had, surprisingly, and 10-speed parts are relatively cheap. I've oiled the chain every few months (it's dry here in LA) but have given it no other servicing otherwise. It has been incredibly durable and reliable through the years. I 'converted' to 1x around a year ago as I don't think I've ever used the inner chainring. This consisted of removing the shifter and mech, and adding on a chain guard.
Wheels and brakes
The original wheels lasted well, although they were a bit stiff and heavy. I probably could have saved them with a thorough overhaul but instead upgraded to a new set of tubeless wheels. I got an incredible deal on eBay and set them up tubeless - I would recommend this to all owners - saves 750g and should be much better at handling punctures (of which I've had maybe 8 since I got the bike). They also ride nicer (I am 155lb). I swapped tyres almost immediately on buying the bike to WTB Horizons and have gone through 2-3 sets it the 12k miles. All very impressive considering a 50lb bike at 30mph on LA's crappy roads - It takes some big hits and the original wheels did tremendously well. The stock Shimano brakes work very well. I had anticipated changing these as they retail for like $25 and I had low expectations, but have been amazed that the actually do a good job. Pads don't last long (every 2000 miles or so on the front) but they are cheap and easy to swap out. I think the fluid is original and I just changed the rotors with the new wheels.
Battery and Motor
I don't know the number of charge cycles on my battery but it must be in the 400-500 range. That said it still holds around 65% of its original charge. If anyone knows of how a battery refresh, or upgrade to better cells works - please reach out to me as I'd like to be back to the original range or better. I occasionally get error codes but don't have the diagnostic tool to read them. all of them go away with a power off/power on, save for when the bike overheats. I only get this on hotter days on a long climb - above 85deg climbing on full power for 10min+ so it's mostly avoidable, but annoying when it happens. I let it cool off by peddling without the power, then reengage after a few minutes. Two chargers (one at home and one at work) have been useful as 20 miles of full power and peddling hard leaves me somewhere under 50% battery.
Cargo
I commute with a large pannier and 25lb of laptop/coffee/books/clothes etc on me everyday, hundreds of times in total and the low profile rack has never let me down. There's plenty of heel clearance (I have 10.5 feet) and having the bag lower helps with handling. I've seen a lot of people annoyed at the lack of a proper rack on the bike, I guess everyone has different needs but I can attest to the provided rack being very useful, as well as looking a whole lot sleeker that anything that would replace it. I have a child seat that I use 2-3 times a week and a front rack/basket on it and can happily carry a weeks worth of grocery's, my three year old son and a 5 gallon jug of water all at once. I could carry 4 panniers, a child seat and the basket and am confident the bike could handle it. I'm really impressed here as I initially bought it to go fast, and the extra utility is a huge bonus.
Lighting/Electric
The original light was junk. it was a little scary past 15mph as it didn't light up enough of the road to be confident. Replacements are kinda limited as it seems the Yamaha system only allocates 0.7A to the front light - not enough for most lights out there. I replaced it with a Supernova E3 V6s which was at least twice as bright but very expensive. it was great until it broke and I replaced it recently with a much cheaper (but still very effective) lezyne Hecto E50. These are super cheap and a worthy upgrade. Has anyone had success with anything brighter? Other changes were removing the computer bracket and hiding the control screen as I never need to know what speed I'm going and almost never need to know the battery level. It was an eyesore and I saved 300g (the mount is a beast!)
All in its a great bike and I would say it has saved me thousands of dollars I would have spent on a second car/gas/insurance etc. it's fun enough to ride and still feels like a bike, and I still get a kick out of accelerating past traffic on my daily commute - it can genuinely 'do it all.' It probably costs me $4-500 a year in electricity and consumables for the mileage I do, not accounting for all the extra food I eat!!
Things I don't like
1. I cannot fit a larger front chainring. On long descents I spin out fairly regularly and would like to have a slightly larger gear. The chain stays bulge out restricting the size to 38T.
2. The screen is massive and the information isn't particularly useful. probably a personal thing but I would like to see a more seamless integration of the electronics like the specialized bikes with just a small control pad.
3. the power is all low down, at low cadences. above 80rpm there is a noticeable drop-off in assistance. Probably due to the lack of gearing in the motor.
4. Ride can be a little jarring. overbuilt alloy frame and fork. Wheels have helped here but still..
5. a faster charger would be nice - I think the stock one is 3.0A, it's ok, but not great. Is there a faster option?
Future plans
1. Comfort - has anyone used something like this suspension stem? I think I might try it, and the seat post next. part of me wants a fork like a Lauf, might try make it fit one of these days. $$
2. change the tyres to WTB Byway and explore some of the local fireroads with my kids. $
3. a new, brighter rear light - any advise here would be appreciated. $
4. since I can't get a bigger chainring, I might try SRAM's XD gearing as I could go to a 10T on the back, increasing the gear a little. Kinda expensive as I'd need a new shifter, mech and a free hub and cassette to make it all work. $$$
5. Is there was a well integrated, 28mph cross/gravel bike with rack mounts that's <20kg. Anyone know of one? Id probably upgrade. $$$$
6. get rid of those zip ties
I've had 'upgrade fever' for the last year but honestly can't think what I'd upgrade to. There are more expensive/exotic bikes but all seem to be heavier with useless (to me) extra features. This might all sound like an ad, but this has been all very positive, the best bike I've owned. I need light, fast and simple with good cargo capacity and haven't seen anything that seems to do all of these better. I've not been nice to it, never cleaning it, rarely oiling it, thrashing it daily and it's never left me stranded. good work Giant!
Happy to answer any questions, and would appreciate any wisdom you all have on the above!
AF
Berserker26
Member
What a great writeup. For your chainring issue you could buy a 50/34 and just use it 1x. Dont even put the front mech back on. This should also move it further outboard so the 50 might clear the chainstay.
Saratoga Dave
Well-Known Member
Terrific review! A ton of miles on that thing, too.
Interesting idea above about remounting twin chainrings to push the large ring out a bit. That might be a winner. My toughRoad is a 1x, was spec’d by Giant as a 42, but came with a 48. Turns out to be a good pick.
Re the rear light, I’m a big fan of the Bontrager Flare. I noted for a long time that the bikes with the best visibility around here usually turned out to be running the Bontrager lights. Their flash pattern is very compelling. I’ve had one for about a year now, very happy with it. Several people have come alongside and asked what light it is, which is exactly what I did earlier.
Interesting idea above about remounting twin chainrings to push the large ring out a bit. That might be a winner. My toughRoad is a 1x, was spec’d by Giant as a 42, but came with a 48. Turns out to be a good pick.
Re the rear light, I’m a big fan of the Bontrager Flare. I noted for a long time that the bikes with the best visibility around here usually turned out to be running the Bontrager lights. Their flash pattern is very compelling. I’ve had one for about a year now, very happy with it. Several people have come alongside and asked what light it is, which is exactly what I did earlier.
alasdair
New Member
Edit: I didn't read your post properly;
Would a different double chainset push the chainline out? It already has a double on there, I just don't use the inner chainring. I'd need at least 5mm to clear the chain stay for a few more teeth, how would this affect the rear shifting?
Thanks for your input here as it would really be great to have another gear!
Last edited:
alasdair
New Member
Thanks Saratoga Dave, a 48 is fine but I would be a lot more comfortable on longer descents being able to pedal under 95rpm. My commute goes over Sepulveda pass in LA so that's 5+ mins of downhill everyday where I usually have to either coast or pedal faster than I want to. First world problems but one more gear would really make a difference to me.
Re. the rear light, I should have said I'm looking for a brighter integrated rear light. The bike comes with a light that runs off the main battery and I love the convenience of not having to charge it (and a front light etc). The light provided is dull and ugly so I want something brighter. Right now its between these three (Lezyne looks best to me!), but it's hard to know if any are going to be any brighter than what I have
Lezyne
Supernova
Busch & Müller
myershse
Member
I recently converted my G-Ones to tubeless. On first attempt, front went fine, but had problems with the rear leaking. So, took out the Giant liner, and used Gorilla 1" tape. The Gorilla 1" was a perfect fit. No problems after re-taping.
Berserker26
Member
I think I misread yours, I thought by making it 1x you'd changed to a single chainring. Other than checking with a bike mechanic for options you could always go for the dreaded triple crank and just use the outside ring
Berserker26
Member
Just did a weekend's riding while the family was away. Rode the Lilydale to Warburton trail day one, about 40k and then from Warburton to my home the next day, about 120k (or so I thought).
Day 1 was awesome, the trail is fantastic (photo's below) however I didn't realise how dusty it was. The bike was filthy by the end of it. Sat in mostly ECO+ just to get a little push as I'd been sick all week.
Day 2 was the big day and it was 1 part fun and 1 part disaster... made it 15km before getting a puncture. I walked about 100m to a stop along the trail and tried to change the tyre. What a nightmare. Firstly I patched the puncture, which was 2 tiny holes and it still wouldn't hold air. Weird. I looked over the tyre again and there was nothing in there sharp but I did notice that where the puncture was the G-Ones were coming apart. I could see the fabric under the rubber. These tyres are 500km old...maybe a small rock went through this part? Anyway, I tried another tube and it pinched when putting it on...ehhhh... so I patched it and tried again, still wouldn't hold air. I'm starting to get really angry. I'm no new tube changer and this was annoying, also the first time I've ever pinched a tube putting it on. Anyway I wasted 1.5 hours. Small hand pump. Hot. Angry. Called a taxi. Whilst waiting 1.5 hours for the taxi (i was in the middle of nowhere) I tried to re-patch the first tube and get it up...nothing... I ended up at the bike shop in Lilydale where they confirmed my back tyre was done. They normally see this when a tyre has been over inflated as it busts apart. I don't over-inflate so no idea. They think a rock must have punctured through the split. I got a new back tyre and 2 new tubes and off I went. Lost about 35km.
Rest of the way home was managing the bike power vs range. Where I had a cross/tail wind I was riding 2km for every 1km of range used. The bike was squeaking a lot thanks to the dust right through the drivetrain from the day before. What was weird was every time I'd go up a decent hill, the Service Spanner would come up. At a stop I'd turn the bike off and back on and it goes away. Go up another big hill, comes back on....weird.
About 30km from home I turned into about 30-40kph headwind. Bike was now doing about 1km for every 2km of range...so my range was coming down fast. I had about 10km of range left, about 15km from home and I was buggered. It had been a big day. I stopped at a petrol station and plugged the bike in for 20mins, got a sandwich and had a rest. Ended up getting home with 2km in the tank and the bike put itself in ECO mode.
All up 96km, mostly in ECO+. 650m climing and about 30km of 40kph head winds.
Take Aways:
The motor creaks like a bitch. Get's annoying.
The spanner light coming on is weird. Kind of don't want to take it in because I've got the Speedbox2 installed
I've already ordered some Schwalbe Enegizer Plus tires.
Bike started out with 156km range and I rode 96km with a 20 min charge. Something to take into account for future.
Was heaps of fun however was a big day with 3 hours of stuffing around with punctures.
Day 1 was awesome, the trail is fantastic (photo's below) however I didn't realise how dusty it was. The bike was filthy by the end of it. Sat in mostly ECO+ just to get a little push as I'd been sick all week.
Day 2 was the big day and it was 1 part fun and 1 part disaster... made it 15km before getting a puncture. I walked about 100m to a stop along the trail and tried to change the tyre. What a nightmare. Firstly I patched the puncture, which was 2 tiny holes and it still wouldn't hold air. Weird. I looked over the tyre again and there was nothing in there sharp but I did notice that where the puncture was the G-Ones were coming apart. I could see the fabric under the rubber. These tyres are 500km old...maybe a small rock went through this part? Anyway, I tried another tube and it pinched when putting it on...ehhhh... so I patched it and tried again, still wouldn't hold air. I'm starting to get really angry. I'm no new tube changer and this was annoying, also the first time I've ever pinched a tube putting it on. Anyway I wasted 1.5 hours. Small hand pump. Hot. Angry. Called a taxi. Whilst waiting 1.5 hours for the taxi (i was in the middle of nowhere) I tried to re-patch the first tube and get it up...nothing... I ended up at the bike shop in Lilydale where they confirmed my back tyre was done. They normally see this when a tyre has been over inflated as it busts apart. I don't over-inflate so no idea. They think a rock must have punctured through the split. I got a new back tyre and 2 new tubes and off I went. Lost about 35km.
Rest of the way home was managing the bike power vs range. Where I had a cross/tail wind I was riding 2km for every 1km of range used. The bike was squeaking a lot thanks to the dust right through the drivetrain from the day before. What was weird was every time I'd go up a decent hill, the Service Spanner would come up. At a stop I'd turn the bike off and back on and it goes away. Go up another big hill, comes back on....weird.
About 30km from home I turned into about 30-40kph headwind. Bike was now doing about 1km for every 2km of range...so my range was coming down fast. I had about 10km of range left, about 15km from home and I was buggered. It had been a big day. I stopped at a petrol station and plugged the bike in for 20mins, got a sandwich and had a rest. Ended up getting home with 2km in the tank and the bike put itself in ECO mode.
All up 96km, mostly in ECO+. 650m climing and about 30km of 40kph head winds.
Take Aways:
The motor creaks like a bitch. Get's annoying.
The spanner light coming on is weird. Kind of don't want to take it in because I've got the Speedbox2 installed
I've already ordered some Schwalbe Enegizer Plus tires.
Bike started out with 156km range and I rode 96km with a 20 min charge. Something to take into account for future.
Was heaps of fun however was a big day with 3 hours of stuffing around with punctures.
If anyone is interested I got some new bontrager e6 tyres on my quick e. They are 2.4 wide and rated at 50kph. The stock g ones are only rsted to 25kph.
Was worried they wouldn't fit or that they might rub as I had the same issues as others on here. But I had the derailleur hanger replaced and while the clearance is tight I think that it's ok, probably 7mm to 10mm between the chainstay and the tyre.
That's about twice as much clearance as the stock 2.25 (to the left side chainstay). Must be a very narrow 2.4
