Powerful Fat Tire E-bike w/ Torque sensor from Juiced Bikes

[Macc]

Macc, you used a payload of 290 lbs, does it make much of a difference with a payload of 195 lbs??

Load and payload are not the same. The way I see it the load on the motor consists of the bike and everything (including rider, clothing, tools, etc.) on the bike. And a difference of 95 lbs would have a significant impact, particularly on hilly terrain.

 

[john peck]

Gotta say the 100+ range must apply to a 4'8" anorexic jockey cuz I can't even get close on my CCS. 54.1 is the max charge I get. Even at 10 mph in eco,( survivalable top speed in freezing weather), I'm only getting 4 miles to the volt. That's 4 x 14 if I were to go down to 40V, but I usually charge around 45. Actually it seems to do better going faster in mode 2. Granted, I present a large profile to the wind + panniers,
etc., and there's nothin' flat about where I ride.

 

[jazz]

Gotta say the 100+ range must apply to a 4'8" anorexic jockey cuz I can't even get close on my CCS. 54.1 is the max charge I get. Even at 10 mph in eco,( survivalable top speed in freezing weather), I'm only getting 4 miles to the volt. That's 4 x 14 if I were to go down to 40V, but I usually charge around 45. Actually it seems to do better going faster in mode 2. Granted, I present a large profile to the wind + panniers,
etc., and there's nothin' flat about where I ride.


View attachment 19532 View attachment 19533

Probably measured by some 5'0 ft, 100lb Chinese dude. I am a 5'10, 190lb, 1/2 Korean dude so it doesn't apply to me LOL

 

[Macc]

Gotta say the 100+ range must apply to a 4'8" anorexic jockey cuz I can't even get close on my CCS. 54.1 is the max charge I get. Even at 10 mph in eco,( survivalable top speed in freezing weather), I'm only getting 4 miles to the volt. That's 4 x 14 if I were to go down to 40V, but I usually charge around 45. Actually it seems to do better going faster in mode 2. Granted, I present a large profile to the wind + panniers,
etc., and there's nothin' flat about where I ride.


View attachment 19532 View attachment 19533

When I first got my HF I ran some range tests and I got about 4.7 miles per volt on the 17.4 Ah battery at 35 degrees F. It was moderately hilly and that test was stopped at 45.3 V. I was about 220 and the bike about 70 lbs I'd say. I was on ECO the entire time and going at a relatively slow speed uphill and on the flat while coasting some on the downhill. Temperature, weight, and speed all have a significant impact on range. And my guess about your max charge is that it actually is 54.5 (unless your battery is older). I have 2 chargers that I believe charge to 54.5 V, yet my display on the bike shows 53.9 after doing a full charge with either charger. I doubt that both chargers would be off by exactly the same amount and I tend to believe the Grin Tech charger is more accurate than the display, especially after I called Juiced and they said that the variance was within their specs.

 

[john peck]

Initially it charged to 54.4 , but it's been at 54.1 for a couple mos, now. I still love the bike;
It's just not a long distance touring bike. It's great for what it is, a commuter, or in my
case,a grocery getter. I've put together a 280mi* gas bike for that with a granny gear for
unpowered pedaling. Charging is 5 hrs., refueling about 5 minutes.
*with extra fuel in the trailer.

 

[Rooster]

Initially it charged to 54.4 , but it's been at 54.1 for a couple mos, now. I still love the bike;
It's just not a long distance touring bike. It's great for what it is, a commuter, or in my
case,a grocery getter. I've put together a 280mi* gas bike for that with a granny gear for
unpowered pedaling. Charging is 5 hrs., refueling about 5 minutes.
*with extra fuel in the trailer.

Just curious John, do the police ever give you a hard time on your gas bike?

 

[john peck]

Funny you should ask. The ones around here are used to seeing me. I ride responsibly with dayglo vest, helmet
& a mirror. I don't bother them: they don't bother me. I'm just that eccentric old guy that seems to be everywhere
on a bike. The way my CCS is set up, you'd think it's a patrol bike. Even though I rarely ride the gas bike, one of
my regular routes curves through a subdivision with several cops & sheriffs. They wave as I pass while working in
their yards. Their Lawn mowers are louder the my quality Japanese 2stroke. Epa & 'CARB' approved. Just the
same, I avoid main roads if possible. Off road I'm legal everywhere.

 

[Eglon]

I really am thinking about putting a double crankset on. I went up in the mountains and the 52T chainring is just way too big for long steep hills. I don't want to mess with a front derailleur and was wondering if I could just manually move the chain to either of the rings. For example I'd put it on the 22T ring for riding in the trials and then the 42T for commuting. Has anybody thought of this or have any experience with it. Here's an example of one option that I found searching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SSQXKG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1VSSX23UPDWUF&psc=1

 

[john peck]

I too have considered this, in fact I have a new 50/34 chainring with a chain guard I could mount at anytime.
I even have a proper front derailleur & have mounted a shifter lever. I do not see any reason why one could not
shift in manually, but not on the fly. Even with just 50T, I think it would reduce stress on the motor a bit without
sacrificing much top end. Maybe I'll get around to it this spring. I can climb a pretty long steep hill, but it really
puts excessive load on the motor.

 

[Dunbar]

I really am thinking about putting a double crankset on. I went up in the mountains and the 52T chainring is just way too big for long steep hills. I don't want to mess with a front derailleur and was wondering if I could just manually move the chain to either of the rings. For example I'd put it on the 22T ring for riding in the trials and then the 42T for commuting. Has anybody thought of this or have any experience with it. Here's an example of one option that I found searching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SSQXKG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1VSSX23UPDWUF&psc=1

You can start with just a 42T and see how you like it. It’s literally just a matter of finding the right BCD chainring and installing it on the stock crank. All you need to do is remove the five bolts and install the new chainring (which takes all of 10-15 min). I would not advise installing a double crank without a front derailleur. Besides the hassle of pulling over every time you wanted to switch chainrings you’d be covering your hands in dirt/grease in the process. As someone who dealt with dropped chains for a while on my Cross Current getting my hands all greasy was the worst part of the whole ordeal. They make clamp-on front derailleur mounts so it’s not that hard to retrofit. I do agree that the stock 52t chainring is overgeared at lower assist levels, or on steeper hills, but I’ve personally never seen the point of having a double or triple crank on an e-bike (especially on a bike with 1500W of peak assist.) The other issue you need to consider is the chain line of a double crank. If the double crank pushes the chain out too far it might compromise the shifting in the rear.

 

[john peck]

[QUOTE="Dunbar, post: If the double crank pushes the chain out too far it might compromise the shifting in the rear.[/QUOTE]

Having done this , I can vouch that it does. I put the same 32/11 & 9 spd components on my gas bike. it will lock up on
the 2 largest sprockets if you are on the larger chainring. Fortunately, that was on a static test, had I been riding there
would have been consequences. (It may possibly work with a slightly longer chain, but that opens
it to other unpleant possibilities

 

[john peck]

I'll add that it's still rideable as long as you don't get cross chained. I put a 50/40/26 infront.
It will go thru every gear on all chainrings but the lowest 2 on the 50.

 

[Macc]

Anybody know why Court hasn't reviewed the HF1000 yet?

 

[jazz]

Anybody know why Court hasn't reviewed the HF1000 yet?

Probaby because he can't his hands on one - they have been out of stock for a few months now. Hype is a nice bike but not worth nearly $4K with shipping. Pros: Mac motor, battery, lighting, controller, torque sensor Cons: forks, brakes, tires, price. basic RipCurrent is much better deal at less than 1/2 the cost. I would rather see a review on that.

 

[Klein Rider]

Probaby because he can't his hands on one - they have been out of stock for a few months now. Hype is a nice bike but not worth nearly $4K with shipping. Pros: Mac motor, battery, lighting, controller, torque sensor Cons: forks, brakes, tires, price. basic RipCurrent is much better deal at less than 1/2 the cost. I would rather see a review on that.

It seems the Ripcurrent is a fendered and racked HF but with 750W instead of 1000W. So I wonder how much of performance difference is between the two motors?

My gut feeling the Ripcurrent is a more 'sorted out and refined' HF.

 

[hurricane56]

It depends if the RC is 750w peak or nominal. Looking at the display on the HF1000, the motor can indeed put out a full 1650w continuous for at least the first half of the battery from about 54v to 45v. After riding the HF1000 for a few hundred miles, I think the sweet spot for a bike like this is about 1000w continuous output. It's enough power to do 30mph at a reasonable cadence and effort. Most people won't have enough tarmac to use the extra speed above 1000w.

 

[Dunbar]

It seems the Ripcurrent is a fendered and racked HF but with 750W instead of 1000W. So I wonder how much of performance difference is between the two motors?

The MAC motor in the HF is quite a bit sturdier. The big performance difference is the controllers. The HF peak continuous power is 48V 30A (1500W) whereas the RCS does 48V 20A (1000W) or slightly (80W) higher with the optional 52V battery. According to Tora the HF turned up to 1500W is bordering on having too much power. The biggest advantage of the HF will have is that, as the battery voltage drops, you would still have over 1000W of power. The RCS would drop from an impressive 1000W to a more pedestrian 700-800W as you drain the battery. The one thing I notice on my Cross Current is that once you get below 50% battery power the bike feels noticeably less peppy. The last 25% is almost not worth using because of how lethargic the bike feels. But keep in mind my OG CC has a ‘measly’ 48V 13A of peak power.

 

[jazz]

The MAC motor in the HF is quite a bit sturdier. The big performance difference is the controllers. The HF peaks at 48V 30A (1500W) whereas the RCS peaks at 48V 20A (1000W) or slightly (80W) higher with the optional 52V battery. According to Tora the HF turned up to 1500W is bordering on having too much power. The biggest advantage of the HF will have is that, as the battery voltage drops, you would still have over 1000W of power. The RCS would drop from an impressive 1000W to a more pedestrian 700-800W as you drain the battery. The one thing I notice on my Cross Current is that once you get below 50% battery power the bike feels noticeably less peppy. The last 25% is almost not worth using because of how lethargic the bike feels. But keep in mind my OG CC has a ‘measly’ 48V 13A of peak power.

Very good points but does it warrant over double the price of a RipC?

 

[Dunbar]

Very good points but does it warrant over double the price of a RipC?

I’d definitely pay double if I felt like there was a big enough difference in the HF. Having ridden neither bike I can’t offer any personal experience on these two bikes.

 

[Andy_in_CA]

early adopters push the tech to a lower price point. Any car now is driven from tech from the racing car industry or even higher end cars in any given line. The tech trickles down to the lower price points, while the cutting edge keeps cutting.

NSX drive train and steering tech back in the 80s made its way into the Prelude and lots of that tech is now across the Honda\Acura lines with all wheel drive and all wheel steering... just as an example

A