Power hub to power multiple devices

mohammed

Member
Region
United Kingdom
Hello all. I recently discovered a product called the Thunderbox which allows you to power multiple devices but this is for 12v motorbike.

I was wondering if there’s an equivalent for e-bikes? Or can I use a XT60 splitter to power my devices like extra lights, cameras and usb chargers.
 
You can use one of these to convert your 48V battery output to 12V if that helps ?


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I wouldn't actually try to pull 20A/1200W out of it though, or you'll smoke the thing.
Running it at about half the rated power is always a good idea.




You can use the dials on the display to adjust the voltage output to whatever you want, or not buy the display with it and use the DIP switches to pick the output voltage,..


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You can set it to 12V to power anything that runs on 12VDC or set it to 5V to make it a USB Output.
Or leave it set at 12V and use a plug-in USB charger for a car to get your USB outlet.
 
I'm not sure what you are trying to power from your e-bike battery but many of us use DC buck converters, such as this one, to get 12V from a 36 to 60V e-bike battery:


Good call 👍👍🏻,..

That looks like it's built for for the job.

My link is more for bench top use, and it's not waterproof.
 
You can use one of these to convert your 48V battery output to 12V if that helps ?


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View attachment 186003


I wouldn't actually try to pull 20A/1200W out of it though, or you'll smoke the thing.
Running it at about half the rated power is always a good idea.




You can use the dials on the display to adjust the voltage output to whatever you want, or not buy the display with it and use the DIP switches to pick the output voltage,..


View attachment 186005


You can set it to 12V to power anything that runs on 12VDC or set it to 5V to make it a USB Output.
Or leave it set at 12V and use a plug-in USB charger for a car to get your USB outlet.
Thanks, this looks really good. I’ve seen other devices like this too so will definitely keep this in mind. Appreciated!
 
I'm not sure what you are trying to power from your e-bike battery but many of us use DC buck converters, such as this one, to get 12V from a 36 to 60V e-bike battery:

View attachment 186006
oh yes, I have a few converters like this but wanted one device to run 3 devices from just the one unit rather than have 3 step down converters connected to the battery going to different places. My controller have an input for a tracker and usb charger but unsure how much power I can draw from them.

The first picture (with the packaging) is a usb port with 3a draw and the other is the one I’m using currently connected to the controller a SM plug.
 

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Thanks, this looks really good. I’ve seen other devices like this too so will definitely keep this in mind. Appreciated!

@6zfshdb Posted a much better option if you want to install it On your ebike.

The one I linked to probably couldn't deal with the vibration and variable outdoor temperatures, and it Certainly can't get wet.
It's got a little built in fan that needs to breathe and would probably suck in dirt and water then crap out on you, possibly in a really bad way. 🔥
 
I tapped in to the 48+ and GND between the controller and display. I connected that to a DC-DC converter like the one pictured above. I had it powering my lights, turn signals, horn, and phone charger. Worked fine.

The DC-DC converter was wired after a key switch. So the key turned on all the lights, then I could turn on the display. The key, when removed, killed power to the display and you can not power the bike.
 
oh yes, I have a few converters like this but wanted one device to run 3 devices from just the one unit rather than have 3 step down converters

You posted while I was typing,..

The buck converter I posted only has one output, but you can dial up a voltage or set the DIP switch.

A buck 12V buck converter like @6zfshdb posted, along with a plug-in 12V USB charger for a car, is probably a better option.
You can gut the plug-in USB charger, wire the 12VDC directly into it, and mount the USB port where you want.
You can seal up the circuit board too. (keeping heat buildup in mind)
 
I tapped in to the 48+ and GND between the controller and display. I connected that to a DC-DC converter like the one pictured above. I had it powering my lights, turn signals, horn, and phone charger. Worked fine.

The DC-DC converter was wired after a key switch. So the key turned on all the lights, then I could turn on the display. The key, when removed, killed power to the display and you can not power the bike.
Did one converter manage to power all the devices?
 
YES! I used a similar one to what 6zfshdb shared above.

This is the exact one I’m using. Here is more detail with links to all the equipment I’ve used.

I like this part,..

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That's a good idea 💡!!
It might eliminate the need for a USB outlet? And I figure it's more waterproof and durable?

(Your blue "This" link didn't work for me??)
 
(Your blue "This" link didn't work for me??)
Fixed link! Thank you

That charger I have has a USB-C port at the bottom. There is a button on the back of the body that you can toggle the port and the wireless function on and off. I really don't think it is waterproof. I haven't tested that yet though. haha
 
I don't think the splitter box is a good idea.
It's just an extra box with circuits that doesn't really serve a purpose.

I think you should make your own splitter using two copper split bolts to join the output of the Buck Converter to a bunch of commonly available 12V connectors.


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You can use two pin 12V connector plugs like this,..

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Or a bunch of XT 60 male/female connectors with leads,..

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Pinch all the leads together under a split bolt, then coat the split bolt and connections with clear Shoe Goo to seal and insulate the connection.

That's what I did to connect my 48V compressor directly to my battery,..

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I just made a 5-way splitter using Mar Connectors (wire nuts),..


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If I was going to use that on my e-bike, I'd also fill the connector with silicone or shoe goo to seal the wires and help prevent corrosion.
 
I just found these,..
I'm going to get some. I'd take it a step further and fill the inside of the box with dielectric grease or silicone to seal it once all the wires are installed.


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Some more ideas,..

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I'd stay away from crimp on connectors like this,..

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They don't make very good contact and they tend to fail over time. They can cut into the strands of wire and let moisture in that starts to corrode.

Soldering is always best for a long lasting connection, but soldering heavy gauge wire can be difficult.
 
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I just found these,..
I'm going to get some. I'd take it a step further and fill the inside of the box with dielectric grease or silicone to seal it once all the wires are installed.


View attachment 186195




Some more ideas,..

View attachment 186196View attachment 186197


I'd stay away from crimp on connectors like this,..

View attachment 186198


They don't make very good contact and they tend to fail over time. They can cut into the strands of wire and let moisture in that starts to corrode.

Soldering is always best for a long lasting connection, but soldering heavy gauge wire can be difficult.

Don't forget these connectors:

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They're reusable and require no tools.
 
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