Please delete

[Man Without Shadow]

bike clicks when pedaling. Sounds bottom bracket-y. Greased/tightened everything I could get to:

seat post, front axle, headset, stem, handlebar mount, cranks, pedals, etc

Is this something inside the BAFANG m620 motor?

Clicks only when pedaling under pressure.

Watched all the youtubes, read the entire interweb about all the parts that need greased, tightened etc.

 

[Wald]

I also noticed a clicking/ ticking noise when pedaling with more pressure lately. But i also could not locate where it's coming from.
My suggestion would be the clutch, maybe!?

 

[Tausan]

I have the same problem. It's definitely coming from the motor. It happens after I ride around 12-15 miles at high speed (28-30mph). The motor was replaced by Bafang but same problem with new motor.

 

[Man Without Shadow]

It's the drive axel moving laterally just a little bit.

 

[Wald]

It's the drive axel moving laterally just a little bit.

Is it possible to fix that? With a shim or something?

 

[TomD]

It's a long shot but there are different length crank bolts for standard vs. fat tire cranks. Watt Wagons sent me some Miranda cranks with lower Q factor and weren't sure if I needed standard or fat tire cranks so they sent both. I didn't realize the bolts they sent were for fat tire cranks so I naively used them with the standard cranks. They won't push the cranks in far enough even though the bolt is tight so you will get some clicking as the crank wobbles no matter how tight you screw them. I eventually realized this and my problems went away when I reverted to the original crank bolts that came with my motor.

 

[AHicks]

It's a long shot but there are different length crank bolts for standard vs. fat tire cranks. Watt Wagons sent me some Miranda cranks with lower Q factor and weren't sure if I needed standard or fat tire cranks so they sent both. I didn't realize the bolts they sent were for fat tire cranks so I naively used them with the standard cranks. They won't push the cranks in far enough even though the bolt is tight so you will get some clicking as the crank wobbles no matter how tight you screw them. I eventually realized this and my problems went away when I reverted to the original crank bolts that came with my motor.

So you are saying the bolts they sent were too long, bottoming out prior to pulling the arm on completely?

 

[TomD]

Yes, they were for the fat bike cranks which use longer bolts.

 

[AHicks]

That thought in mind, or the thought of the crank arms being slightly loose and causing that click, I checked the ones on my bike. It's made a clicking sound that seems to come and go. One that would be irritating if it becomes worse/regular. Neither bolt was "loose" but I was able to tighten them - something that had completely slipped my mind during a pretty thorough prep after coming out of the box.

 

[AHicks]

Derailleur adjusted to spot on, click gone.

 

[Wald]

That thought in mind, or the thought of the crank arms being slightly loose and causing that click, I checked the ones on my bike. It's made a clicking sound that seems to come and go. One that would be irritating if it becomes worse/regular. Neither bolt was "loose" but I was able to tighten them - something that had completely slipped my mind during a pretty thorough prep after coming out of the box.

I checked the tension on my crank arms yesterday, and they where a bit loose/ not as tight as they should be.
After torquing them to 35Nm the clicking noise was gone. Let's see for how long...

 

[Wald]

Yesterday my right pedal fell off!
I was on my way back and about 9km from home, (i was just crossing a road) the right pedal suddenly fell off and was clonking on the tarmac. I didn't take my phone with me, so i had to walk/ push the bike for 9km.

As seen in the pictures the break point was rusty, which means the bolt was brocken for at least a couple of days (it was raining a lot here germany the last days). My last ride was a week before that, maybe it broke but the pedal didn't loose itself, so i didn't notice it.

Anyway. Are ripped off bolts on the Bafang isis crank a common thing, or was is just bad luck??
I already ordered those as a replacement.

 

[AHicks]

Nothing scientific to back me, but that bolt looks like it may have been over torqued.

I have not read about that happening anywhere else, so my plan of action would be to replace it and keep my fingers crossed.... -Al

 

[Wald]

Nothing scientific to back me, but that bolt looks like it may have been over torqued.

I have not read about that happening anywhere else, so my plan of action would be to replace it and keep my fingers crossed.... -Al

When i remember correctly it was 38Nm the last time i tighten them up. Because the 35Nm from my last post were not enough (the pedal started clicking again).
Does someone now the specific torque for those bolts? I mean 38Nm for M15 shouldn't be too much.
The Miranda bolts i ordered are specified for 57-64Nm.

 

[Wald]

I found the source of my occasionally appearing clicking noise (which got worse the last weeks)!
I discovered that when riding my bike and pushing hard with the left leg, there was no noise, but pushing hard with the right leg created the clicking. So i switched the crank from each side and the clicking went offer to the left side.
I then disassembled both pedals (Crankbrothers Stamp1) and lubricated everything. But the clicking was still there! So i removed the hole pedal incl. the axel, which was not very tightened to my surprise, and screwed in a tap drill M14x1,25 to use it as a pedal axel. That way i could just sit on the bike and apply a little pressure on pedals/ cranks. The clicking was gone!

It was a loose pedal axle on the right crank. The reason for that was that the oem bafang cranks that came with the motor were labeled the wrong way round. The crank marked with R belongs to the left side and wise versa. So over the past month the right pedal had loosen it self and started making that clicking noise.