OLD school bike bearing question

[Nvreloader]

I finally got all the parts required to change over to the suspension fork, I think,
and up jumped this problem.

I am changing out the front axle to a solid axle (No front skewer type as before),
the new axle set set came with 7-1/4" and 7- 3/16" caged bearing sets,
the OEM original front bearings are 11 loose ball bearings in 3/16" size,
in this Formal Brand 26" x 36 spoke hub.

The cone bearing race has a slightly different profile,
than the OEM profile cone bearings.

Can I still use the 11- 3/16" bearings in place of the caged bearing sets,
with this new solid axle?
I know the loose 3/16" bearings fit the front hub,
unsure about the caged bearing sets?
Your thoughts and suggestions,
Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm guessing that you should be fine with either bearings.
I personally would rather have 11 ball bearings supporting the wheel than seven, but the cages are easier to install.

The differently sized ball bearings will seat themselves on different contact points between the cups and cones, but that shouldn't matter because you adjust the clearance when install the bearings, and you've also got brand new cups and cones, so they haven't been worn in/seated yet.

However,.. It's possible that the balls might try to seat themselves somewhere where they're not supposed to be running, if they are too small or too big.

Try assembling the 11 loose bearing loosely, without grease, and see how the cups, cones, and balls line up with each other, then compare it to the caged set.

You should be able to tell by look and feel, if it will work will either bearings.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
I like loose ball bearings and know how to set them up. I sure don't like those caged bearings that came with the new axle, JDLR, they seem like they are too small for the cones, in either size.
I have a small box of assorted bearing sizes coming, and will find the best size for this front axle and no big gaps between the bearings.

The one good thing is the old OEM axle cones are the same size/tpi as the new axle, so I can reuse the cones, if needed. The OEM cones are not pitted or marked in any way, the bike only had 428 miles total riding since being new.

Had to get a new #7 chain Quick link for the OEM chain, as it is a solid chain,
no QL, as I have to break the chain, putting on new shoes/tubes as everything was dry rotted from setting for 15 yrs in the back of the Cessna Sky Wagon.

I went with 2.25" on the front and 2.45" Schwalbe Pickups on the back, over the 1.75", I have too much sand around here, also added the suspension FF which should ease the pounding on my wrists.

This is such a lite/quick bike as compared to it's 2 bigger FT brothers, but you do feel the rough trail conditions, because of the lightness of the bike.. Still looking at adding a addon motor in 48v, (Have 4 -48v battery's for the Wart Hog that I can change between the bikes), but looking for a torque motor, which I like.
Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

The one good thing is the old OEM axle cones are the same size/tpi as the new axle, so I can reuse the cones, if needed. The OEM cones are not pitted or marked in any way, the bike only had 428 miles total riding since being new.

I think you should reuse everything and rebuild it the way it came apart.

There was nothing wrong with the wheel except for the short axle, and it's probably got better quality components/metal than what's commonly available today.

,.. in the back of the Cessna Sky Wagon.

That's where your bike feels most at home. Sitting right next to a parachute,..

The folding mechanism on your bike Impresses the Hell outta me !!

It works by design and is fully sealed in case you land in the water after you jump out of the plane.

All the other folders have some version of this crappy design,..

It either seizes up and you have to kick the s*it out of it to open and close the hinge, or it loosens up and your bike rides like a wet noodle.

,.. Still looking at adding a addon motor in 48v, (Have 4 -48v battery's for the Wart Hog that I can change between the bikes), but looking for a torque motor, which I like.
Tia

I'm sure you know that @PedalUma installed a motor on a Montague for @Art Deco.
I'm sure they can give you some pointers.

Does Montague make an ebike?
That square top tube if perfect for fitting a battery and controller inside.
(I haven't looked into it because I don't want to want another ebike. )

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
Yes, Montague ebike info here:

M-E1 | Montague Bikes

The Montague M-E1 is the world’s first full-size performance foldable e-bike. A revolutionary new e-bike designed for both urban riding and trekking, the M-E1 is equipped with a Shimano Steps E6100 mid-drive motor and a Deore drivetrain, and folds in seconds with a single quick release. With...

www.montaguebikes.com

The oval top tube is only 4" tall and is only 1.75"+ thick, and is sealed at both ends via the welding to the frame parts etc.

I did not know about that conversion done by PedalUma,
I'll drop a pm to AD and hope he has some more info on the conversion.

I have only saved the one conversion done by the airplane guy (Idaho) that added a motor and hauled it around in his home built airplane, landing on the mountain hill tops in the back country and riding the Montague bike all over the hills etc.
Tia

 

[PCeBiker]

I checked out your link and found a link to the EBR review by Court.

I noticed that the pivoting mechanism is more like the traditional hinge version, but Court was Really Impressed with the quality of the ebike and I'm sure Montague has a properly engineered hinge.

But you might not be able to land in a lake when you jump out of your plane with the electric version.


Fortunately, I don't need a folding e-bike, and I do really like what I'm riding now, so I'm just going to keep spending money on that instead.

 

[Art Deco]

Just found this thread. Added a Link to mine.

(Art)istic eBike

This is Babs the ebike; named after my wife Barbara . She just arrived and I will test ride her tomorrow. Hopefully.

forums.electricbikereview.com

 

[PCeBiker]

Just found this thread. Added a Link to mine.

I added a like to your link, and a link that goes nowhere,..

nowhere

1. in, at, or to no place; not anywhere: 2. not in a successful or winning…

dictionary.cambridge.org

 

[Art Deco]

Close to me, actually. I am at the intersection of "NO" and "WHERE"

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Art

 

[nutdriver]

Quoting PCeBiker "I think you should reuse everything and rebuild it the way it came apart.

There was nothing wrong with the wheel except for the short axle, and it's probably got better quality components/metal than what's commonly available today."

I think this is the way to go. Assuming that the threads are the same, I would reuse the old cones and loose ball bearings on the new axle shaft.

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Guys
I just checked and the axles on both are the same tpi,
so I can reuse the OEM cones/bearings with the longer axle.
That makes life simple now.

I have spent the couple of hours attempting to fit a quik link into the OEM chain,
7 spd, it is a solid chain with no quick link, (Old School chain).
(I have to change out the old tires/tubes to the new Schwabe Pickup tires),
so I needed the quik link to break the chain, I tried a #9 chain quik link and it would not go together either. Switched back to the #7 chain link and finally got it to snap together, what a headache.

Now I can finish up adding on all the new parts, front susp fork, new shoes f/b,
added a bike rack/stand, 2 new mirrors, and figuring out the Catseye display,
dead battery after 15+ yrs of use, complete check and lube job for all moving parts.
Even found out it has folding pedals/head stem.

A heavy cold storm just blew in, perfect timing to do some bike work... lol
Tia

 

[nutdriver]

Thanks Guys
I just checked and the axles on both are the same tpi,
so I can reuse the OEM cones/bearings with the longer axle.
That makes life simple now.

I have spent the couple of hours attempting to fit a quik link into the OEM chain,
7 spd, it is a solid chain with no quick link, (Old School chain).
(I have to change out the old tires/tubes to the new Schwabe Pickup tires),
so I needed the quik link to break the chain, I tried a #9 chain quik link and it would not go together either. Switched back to the #7 chain link and finally got it to snap together, what a headache.

Now I can finish up adding on all the new parts, front susp fork, new shoes f/b,
added a bike rack/stand, 2 new mirrors, and figuring out the Catseye display,
dead battery after 15+ yrs of use, complete check and lube job for all moving parts.
Even found out it has folding pedals/head stem.

A heavy cold storm just blew in, perfect timing to do some bike work... lol
Tia

I am not surprised that you could not get a 9 speed chain quick link to work on your 7 speed OEM chain. Chain width varies significantly by the chain type.

Bike Chain Size Guide And Chart

If you are ready to replace your bike’s chain, you need to know the chain’s size and details. Read the article to learn more about the bicycle chain sizes chart and size guide.

www.statecyclist.com