Off-road capable commuter tyres?

Yeah, found it already. I´m on an e-mtn, but ride general use primarily. The ruban 2.10 looks perfect,
& not too pricy, narrow but good for gravel (?). The green guards are just okay on trail, not so good
uphill on a modestly technical trail. Still, for me they are great on pavement. When I wear ´em out,
I think I´ĺl go with the ruban,
Saw you found it after I posted! :)
I'm waiting to wear out my Maxxis Rekons before I try either JW or ERubans
 
Tyre inflation pressure mosty depends on their size (the thinner the tyre the higher inflation). Johnny Watts 27.5x2.6" take 17-38 psi.
Good to know. That´ś just a teensy bit soft for a hulk like me; I´d bottom out. 2.6¨ is a bit wide since I´m on asphalt
80% off the time. I´d prefer something skinny with some extra bite, but that´s just me. I´m gonna look into gravel
tires.
Saw you found it after I posted! :)
I'm waiting to wear out my Maxxis Rekons before I try either JW or ERubans
No, actually found it on my own, WBT gravel venture, 700/50 looks promising If I knew the PSI. I´d
really like a minimum of 60 psi.
 
2.6¨ is a bit wide since I´m on asphalt
The whole idea of Johnny Watts is to be ridden on asphalt. Besides, if an e-bike comes with 35 mm rims (so called Wide Trail or WT), your options are limited to plus tyre sizes :)
 
The folding gravel tires are designed for tubeless setups so they generally run at lower pressures. With tubes they can go higher but not like wire bead road tires. They are low rolling resistance and with tubes you can go with 50psi (3.5bar). The side walls have flex and cannot sustain higher pressures. I like them on my personal town bike which I also take on dirt. That is a reminder to me that that bike must have picked up a very sharp object. It has a rear flat today. I need to get on it. The Ventures are nice.
 
Good to know. That´ś just a teensy bit soft for a hulk like me; I´d bottom out. 2.6¨ is a bit wide since I´m on asphalt
80% off the time. I´d prefer something skinny with some extra bite, but that´s just me. I´m gonna look into gravel
tires.
Im about the same weight as you and run both JW and Smart Sams in a 27.5x2.6 at 25psi, no issues. My rides are 70% offroad and can include sections about as rough as I can endure on a rigid eMTB with 2.6 tires. I also encounter several curbs I have to ride up (pop up the front wheel, then shift weight foward as the rear wheel encounters the curb). I have banged up rims when I let the tire pressure get too low and am sloppy with my curb technique but have never gotten a snake bite flat.

The JW are definately better on the asphalt than the Smart Sams

Im pretty lazy with pressures these days and usually pump them up to 30psi and ride them until they feel squirmy which happens right around 21psi after about a month.
 
Good to know. That´ś just a teensy bit soft for a hulk like me; I´d bottom out. 2.6¨ is a bit wide since I´m on asphalt
80% off the time. I´d prefer something skinny with some extra bite, but that´s just me. I´m gonna look into gravel
tires.

No, actually found it on my own, WBT gravel venture, 700/50 looks promising If I knew the PSI. I´d
really like a minimum of 60 psi.
I know, I just didn't see it until after I posted. :)
 
Good to know. That´ś just a teensy bit soft for a hulk like me; I´d bottom out. 2.6¨ is a bit wide since I´m on asphalt
80% off the time. I´d prefer something skinny with some extra bite, but that´s just me. I´m gonna look into gravel
tires.
The 2.35 JW's can go 23-50 PSI fwiw. My carcass is skin 'n bones compared to you, but similar riding profile and I've been very happy with them. Usually run 30-40 PSI. I should probably pay more attention, but they are very forgiving compared to the super moto-x's I had before.
 
I´d
really like a minimum of 60 psi.
John,
Why is the inflation pressure so important to you? Let me explain:

The force acting on the tyre walls (the force that supports your bike and body weight on the ground) is pressure times the internal area of the tyre. The wider a tyre the greater the internal tyre area (and it is a square relationship). For this reason, the same supporting force in a wide tyre is achieved by inflating it to low pressure while skinny tyres are inflated to high pressure.

For instance, a 2.6" MTB tyre can be inflated to 38 psi but a 23 mm road bike tyre would be inflated to as much as 160 psi to the same effect!

For this reason, nobody selects tyres by inflation pressure (and that's why Schwalbe doesn't publish these figures). The tyre selection is made by these criteria:
  • How big my wheel is? (it could be 20, 26, 27.5, or 28/29" for instance)
  • How wide my rim is? (it could be 17 mm for carbon fibre road bike or 40 mm for 3" tyres)
  • How wide tyre would fit my bike? (the tyre width is limited by the wheel size, fender clearance, fork/rear triangle clearance, etc)
  • The intended purpose of riding (paved road, gravel, off-road/dirt, all-rounder).
Therefore, you won't get anywhere by just looking for "60 psi tyres good for gravel and asphalt". The OPs choices are limited because @pmcdonald rides a Giant Explore E+ in which the tyre size will be limited by the wheel size and frame/fender clearances.

Additional information:
There is some confusion about 28" vs 29" wheels. Both have the same rim diameter, which is 622 mm. 28" wheels are for "normal" (narrower) tyres while 29" wheels are for "plus" (wider) tyres. I can bet the wheels in Explore E+ are 28" ones as these are much standard for that bike type. Therefore, some tyre models are excluded from the OP's choice.
 
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I wish I could give you more info on the rims. Here's the product page of my model Explore: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/explore-eplus-1-25km-h-2020. And I'm running tyres that read 40x622, 28x1.5 and 700x38. Which probably doesn't help much.

The setup does surprisingly well on flowing downhill runs (such as the Seismic run in the YouTube video I linked) but gets loose on the more technical tracks where tree roots, rocks and drops demand sudden changes in direction.
 
And I'm running tyres that read 40x622, 28x1.5 and 700x38. Which probably doesn't help much.
It is perfectly comprehensive! 622 mm (ETRTO) is the same rim as 28" (inch) or 700C (French). All designations refer to the same 622 mm diameter rim of "normal" width. Now: you have used 38 or 40 mm tyres (ERTRO: 40-622, 38-622); it is 1.5" nominal.

Now: Schwalbe makes 37-622 Smart Sams. It is actually the same tyre size as your 38-622 (the extra 1 mm is for knobs). I actually use them on my Vado SL, and greatly recommend them for pavement and trail.

Now, if you use Schwalbe search engine, you are absolutely free to select what you want as long as the ERTRO size is either 37-622 or 40-622:


1631183731449.png

When you do the search by size, you will discover only certain models of tyres are available for the sizes chosen! For instance, there won't be Johnny Watts there. You will find Smart Sams in 37-622 but not in 40-622 (the former are fully acceptable).
 
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Thanks Stefan! How do they run on tarmac, and how have you found the puncture resistance? I'll be pairing the new tyres with the Tannus Armour inserts for added protection.
 
Thanks Stefan! How do they run on tarmac, and how have you found the puncture resistance? I'll be pairing the new tyres with the Tannus Armour inserts for added protection.
I cannot tell you anything about Tannus Armour of course.
Smart Sams are totally silent on asphalt because the centre bead is made of low very hard knobs that also offer low rolling resistance. On cornering, the outer knobs made of softer rubber improve traction. On dirt or in forest, the knobs bite into the surface, offering excellent grip. Schwalbe give the protection level 6/7, so it is good.

Out of curiosity: What is the main reason of getting punctures in Australia? I use Smart Sams on my both e-bikes and had no puncture ever (but Poland is a surprisingly clean country, and we meet thorns very rarely).
 
John,
Why is the inflation pressure so important to you? Let me explain:

The force acting on the tyre walls (the force that supports your bike and body weight on the ground) is pressure times the internal area of the tyre. The wider a tyre the greater the internal tyre area (and it is a square relationship). For this reason, the same supporting force in a wide tyre is achieved by inflating it to low pressure while skinny tyres are inflated to high pressure.

For instance, a 2.6" MTB tyre can be inflated to 38 psi but a 23 mm road bike tyre would be inflated to as much as 160 psi to the same effect!

For this reason, nobody selects tyres by inflation pressure (and that's why Schwalbe doesn't publish these figures). The tyre selection is made by these criteria:
  • How big my wheel is? (it could be 20, 26, 27.5, or 28/29" for instance)
  • How wide my rim is? (it could be 17 mm for carbon fibre road bike or 40 mm for 3" tyres)
  • How wide tyre would fit my bike? (the tyre width is limited by the wheel size, fender clearance, fork/rear triangle clearance, etc)
  • The intended purpose of riding (paved road, gravel, off-road/dirt, all-rounder).
Therefore, you won't get anywhere by just looking for "60 psi tyres good for gravel and asphalt". The OPs choices are limited because @pmcdonald rides a Giant Explore E+ in which the tyre size will be limited by the wheel size and frame/fender clearances.

Additional information:
There is some confusion about 28" vs 29" wheels. Both have the same rim diameter, which is 622 mm. 28" wheels are for "normal" (narrower) tyres while 29" wheels are for "plus" (wider) tyres. I can bet the wheels in Explore E+ are 28" ones as these are much standard for that bike type. Therefore, some tyre models are excluded from the OP's choice.
Because it keeps my rims from bottoming out. Why is it so important for you to take issue?
 
Because it keeps my rims from bottoming out. Why is it so important for you to take issue?
Your rims are supported by Force = Pressure * Inner Tyre Area. Pressure itself is not enough to keep your rims intact. 60 psi itself means nothing. Just saying.
 
Injun wisdom: if you are riding a dead horse, dismount.
Political wisdom: 1. get a bigger whip. 2. change riders. 3. threaten the horse with termination.
4. have a committee study the horse. 5.Visit a site to see how others ride a dead horse.. 6.lower
standards for riding a dead horse..7. Reclassify horse as ´riding impaired´.8. Hire a private
contractor to ride a dead horse. 9.Harness dead horses together to increase speed. 10. Provide
additional funding for dead horse awareness.11. Promote dead horse to supervisor.
 
700C rims certainly make things challenging insofar as an off-road tire is concerned, but ...
  • You like/know the Marathon Plus
  • you want to retain the bullet-proofness of the Marathon Plus
  • The Explore+E uses a 622-45, as a stock tire size
  • Did I miss it or has nobody yet recommended the...
Marathon Plus Tour. In 622-45.


This tire is I think not regularly available in the USA. I bought mine from an EU bike shop and just waited for it to show up. Mine were for use as winter tires to replace my Marathons on my Bullitt. I wanted a tire better able to handle crappy winter (California) conditions, although apparently its never going to rain here again.

The tread on this tire is quite aggressive considering what it is... and its not knobby. This is my 50-559. Not as demure looking in person vs. the cgi in the product pic.

PXL_20210909_170724836.jpg


Also, consider mounting the rear tire in 'propulsion mode'... backwards. Look at the tread pattern and think on how that would work in reverse under power.
 
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