New Voltbike Yukon 750 spotted
- Thread starter SuperGoop
- Start date
gcoop
New Member
...and with all that new knowledge I was able to mess-up the settings.
Sorry, but my speedo doesn't work any longer. It reads 0 km/h , sometimes 2.3 km/h , or 3.4 km/h when I was going at about 26km/h in reality...?
I'm not sure what I did but the tire setting is at 26 which I thought would be the only variable messing with the speedo.
The tach also isn't recording distance but the clock (timer) is working?
So basically everything is working except for the speedo, tach, odo, etc....
Thanks in advance,
GC.
Sorry, but my speedo doesn't work any longer. It reads 0 km/h , sometimes 2.3 km/h , or 3.4 km/h when I was going at about 26km/h in reality...?
I'm not sure what I did but the tire setting is at 26 which I thought would be the only variable messing with the speedo.
The tach also isn't recording distance but the clock (timer) is working?
So basically everything is working except for the speedo, tach, odo, etc....
Thanks in advance,
GC.
@gcoop I usually just bring 1 (but sometimes up to 3) Abus folding locks, depending on my ride. Each lock weighs 2 lbs.
Multiple locks allow options. Either daisy chain for extra length, or multiple locks for extra protection.
Here is my post with pictures:
https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/new-voltbike-yukon-750-spotted.8120/page-3#post-77679
Multiple locks allow options. Either daisy chain for extra length, or multiple locks for extra protection.
Here is my post with pictures:
https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/new-voltbike-yukon-750-spotted.8120/page-3#post-77679
gcoop
New Member
Many thanks! Ended up buying the ABUS 6000.
gcoop
New Member
I'm at the 600 km mark with my Yukon 750 and just noticed that the throttle is intermittently working. Pedal Assist is working fine but straight throttle works sometimes and other times is completely dead.
It feels like there is a fault connection from throttle to controller to motor? I've written to Volt to see if they have suggestions and am waiting to hear back.
One thing, when PAS is engaged and I'm cruising, if I then engage the throttle it is more likely to work but rarely works from a dead stop?
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
GC.
It feels like there is a fault connection from throttle to controller to motor? I've written to Volt to see if they have suggestions and am waiting to hear back.
One thing, when PAS is engaged and I'm cruising, if I then engage the throttle it is more likely to work but rarely works from a dead stop?
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
GC.
ace20ri
Member
@Bsbs I decided to not exhaust any more energy on removing the speed limit on my Yukon and went with an overhaul of the power electronics all together.
I have not posted in a while and have been pretty busy DIYing. Here is my new setup:
Phaserunner by Grin Technologies (Dimensions 99mm x 40mm x 34mm)
The voltage range is from 30v-90v and can handle up 50A from the battery. The cables are long for a diverse setup but I checked and it can fit in the nook where the shipping controller is located. I decided not to do this since the controller is programmable and must get "tuned" to the motor. There are lots of settings and I am still tweaking them so hiding the controller would be a pain. Really awesome controller that allows the motor to start using the hall sensors and then run in sensorless mode after initial feedback from the hall sensors. Of course there are speed settings and many other fun settings like injecting field weakening current that can pull increase the motor's RPM without a lot of additional current. (Speed boost!).
I also added a Cycle Analyst (CA3-DP)
This display has too many features to list. I recommend installing the new firmware to get the benefit of using a potentiometer and digital input to control power or amp levels along with adding PAS level functionality.
Here are few pics of my latest setup:
Hard to see but I swapped the rear freewheel to a DNP Epoch 11-30 Freewheel to stay in cadence at the higher speeds I am able to achieve now (33mph!)
View of the cycle analyst V3 along with the potentiometer (assigned to control overall power level), digital aux 2 button input (I have it assigned to control PAS levels) and my Lifeproof Bike Handlebar Mount for my iPhone 7+
Close up of the phaserunner:
Cockpit view with new longer 720mm OUTDAD handlebar, Ergon GP5 grips and EM3EV Power Switch with horn button:
Close up of my 48V Uxcel horn This thing is so loud and sounds like a car horn! Must have if riding in city traffic. I wired it up to the switch with a 20A in-line fuse just in case. Only supposed to use 200mA but you never know.
I'm waiting for my YITAMOTOR 36W LED spotlight, I mean headlight to arrive so that I can mount it to my handlebar. Got tired of barely seeing the road and cars seeing me leaving late from the office.
If anyone decides to take on such an upgrade, definitely invest in a JST kit like this. I had to swap quite a few connectors for fitment and wire routing. I also purchased the Bikehand Pro bike stand along with Feedback Handlebar holder.
Lots of information so my apologies but hopefully if anyone is looking to overhaul their Yukon this may help. I will post pictures of the stock Yukon controller connector map soon for anyone interested. I also noticed that the on the stock controller PCBA there are plated through holes which resemble programming pads so I may try and see if I can adapt a harness to see if I can figure out overriding any board level programming now it's just collection dust. I will obviously share my results.
Depending how the second half of the year looks, I may take the battery apart and replace the cells with higher energy density cells. Unfortunately the cells will be proprietary to the company I work for but may be able to recommend some "equivalents" that are off the shelf. Not sure how much air is inside the battery housing but hoping to fit 2170 cells to really get improved capacity.
I have not posted in a while and have been pretty busy DIYing. Here is my new setup:
Phaserunner by Grin Technologies (Dimensions 99mm x 40mm x 34mm)
The voltage range is from 30v-90v and can handle up 50A from the battery. The cables are long for a diverse setup but I checked and it can fit in the nook where the shipping controller is located. I decided not to do this since the controller is programmable and must get "tuned" to the motor. There are lots of settings and I am still tweaking them so hiding the controller would be a pain. Really awesome controller that allows the motor to start using the hall sensors and then run in sensorless mode after initial feedback from the hall sensors. Of course there are speed settings and many other fun settings like injecting field weakening current that can pull increase the motor's RPM without a lot of additional current. (Speed boost!).
I also added a Cycle Analyst (CA3-DP)
This display has too many features to list. I recommend installing the new firmware to get the benefit of using a potentiometer and digital input to control power or amp levels along with adding PAS level functionality.
Here are few pics of my latest setup:
Hard to see but I swapped the rear freewheel to a DNP Epoch 11-30 Freewheel to stay in cadence at the higher speeds I am able to achieve now (33mph!)
View of the cycle analyst V3 along with the potentiometer (assigned to control overall power level), digital aux 2 button input (I have it assigned to control PAS levels) and my Lifeproof Bike Handlebar Mount for my iPhone 7+
Close up of the phaserunner:
Cockpit view with new longer 720mm OUTDAD handlebar, Ergon GP5 grips and EM3EV Power Switch with horn button:
Close up of my 48V Uxcel horn This thing is so loud and sounds like a car horn! Must have if riding in city traffic. I wired it up to the switch with a 20A in-line fuse just in case. Only supposed to use 200mA but you never know.
I'm waiting for my YITAMOTOR 36W LED spotlight, I mean headlight to arrive so that I can mount it to my handlebar. Got tired of barely seeing the road and cars seeing me leaving late from the office.
If anyone decides to take on such an upgrade, definitely invest in a JST kit like this. I had to swap quite a few connectors for fitment and wire routing. I also purchased the Bikehand Pro bike stand along with Feedback Handlebar holder.
Lots of information so my apologies but hopefully if anyone is looking to overhaul their Yukon this may help. I will post pictures of the stock Yukon controller connector map soon for anyone interested. I also noticed that the on the stock controller PCBA there are plated through holes which resemble programming pads so I may try and see if I can adapt a harness to see if I can figure out overriding any board level programming now it's just collection dust. I will obviously share my results.
Depending how the second half of the year looks, I may take the battery apart and replace the cells with higher energy density cells. Unfortunately the cells will be proprietary to the company I work for but may be able to recommend some "equivalents" that are off the shelf. Not sure how much air is inside the battery housing but hoping to fit 2170 cells to really get improved capacity.
Last edited:
Denis Shelston
Well-Known Member
Wow... This is a serious upgrade. Good job.
I noticed you installed the throttle on the left, interesting. Love your grips and mirrors.
Congrats and have fun and safe rides.
I noticed you installed the throttle on the left, interesting. Love your grips and mirrors.
Congrats and have fun and safe rides.
ace20ri
Member
Thanks @Denis Shelston. Well worth it for the performance I want. Good catch on the throttle. I always wanted to move the throttle to the left since the shifter is on the right. There was a time frame when I only had the phaserunner connected and connected the throttle directly to it. The phaserunner does not have autocruise so it was really difficult to keep the throttle pressed and also shift at the same since I only have 1 thumb
Now that I the cycle analyst installed and PAS enabled along with autocruise that scenario is not an issue anymore. I actually prefer it on the left now.Wow, that is amazing! 33 mph must be at the upper limits for the Bafang Geared HUB motor. Using an online calculator, the motor will be spinning at 382 RPM @ 33 mph.
ace20ri
Member
Without injecting field weakening current from the phaserunner controller, no way I get there. I am definitely pushing the motor beyond its upper RPM limit and pushing my fitness limits as well to get to 33mph
I can easily cruise around 28-29mph without breathing too hard. 11T-30T freewheel helps alot! Out of curiosity what input values did you use for that calculator? Did you use 29" for wheel diameter and use 44T for the crank and 11T for the rear cog?@ace20ri for the calculator, I used:
Tire diameter= 29"
Speed = 33 mph
Differential ratio = 1*
RPM = compute to 382 rpm
* Gearing does not matter since it is a HUB motor, and the motor is always spinning 1:1 with the wheel.
@ace20ri What is your modded max speed on a flat, windless day on throttle only? Thanks.
Tire diameter= 29"
Speed = 33 mph
Differential ratio = 1*
RPM = compute to 382 rpm
* Gearing does not matter since it is a HUB motor, and the motor is always spinning 1:1 with the wheel.
@ace20ri What is your modded max speed on a flat, windless day on throttle only? Thanks.
Denis Shelston
Well-Known Member
Excellent question @america94. Are gears all plastic and well lubed? From the noise it makes upon acceleration it sounds like they are plastic...
Curious minds want to know
ace20ri
Member
Okay thanks for the info. I can reach 27mph without wind on flat with WOT. Upgrading the freewheel to a smaller tooth count really helps at that speed to gain additional speed and workout
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