New RAD Pricing!

Hello Felix and AHicks,

I've been looking in vain for a 11-34 Freewheel for my 2018 Rad City E-bike. Could either of you let me know where to locate one and possibly the part number. Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

DBrown
 
That's the freewheel I ordered so it must be. The 11 tooth is the important side. That's the one that's going to allow you to keep up with the pedals at something in excess of 15mph. The big gear, whether 30 or 34, is not something you would use much. Personally, I've never used it or the next bigger one (1st or 2nd gears). Those are reserved for trying to climb a wall or something..... -Al
 
I climb two big streets every day and have to pop into 1 on the stock freewheel on my 2018 and I don't think the 30 cog would work for me compared to the stock 34. I wish Rad would sell us the DNP 11-34T they are putting on the 2019s. The 14 cog is worthless for pedaling above 22/23mph :(
 
Actually I think one of the most interesting things they have done is that newfangled 11-34 tooth freewheel. It gets around a lot of the limitations of a traditional 7-speed for an e-bike (where the low is not low enough and the high gear is not high enough).

I will be very interested in hearing how those work out for people.
Definitely agree that it is an improvement (from a Radcity owner who bought one). But I have to say I was amused to hear Court call it "really high quality," becasue there are a number of people here that have upgraded their pre-2019s to this freewheel, and while nearly all think it an improvement, I think very few of us would call it "very high quality" ... many have actually lamented that there is not another option out there with < 14t still in production (there are apparently old non-DNP stock that was much nicer quality), we are just choosing this one by default.
 
Maybe I've managed to miss it, but I don't think there's another 11 tooth option for a freewheel unit.

I love the "ridability" change it made on my '18 City. Maybe it's not the highest quality, but mine has been working well so far (600 miles to date), just like all others that have swapped over to them. I can't remember anyone that's written in regarding a failure. That in itself is a testament regarding it's quality. Sure, anything can fail, and it may fail eventually, but it's not much of a concern here. That day will not be the end of the world. If it fails, I bolted this one on, I can sure as heck replace it if need be some day. Who knows, maybe a "better" one will be available then? -Al
 
My Juiced CrossCurrent Air came with mechanical disc brakes, and yes I totally agree with going to hydraulic because I later upgraded to hydraulic and I'm so happy with it.

However I don't know about torque sensor. I have cadence sensor and I actually prefer it.
I honestly don't understand what the big deal is about torque sensor, yes I know it's more expensive and supposedly better because it gives you "natural cycling feel" but I actually like the zippy feel of cadence sensor.

To each their own I guess.

My Juiced CCX has both cadence and torque sensors. I think I read something about being able to disable one or the other which might be an interesting test for me.
 
My Juiced CCX has both cadence and torque sensors. I think I read something about being able to disable one or the other which might be an interesting test for me.
So since it has a cadence sensor, does a juice bike show RPM on the LCD display? If not, why not?
 
So since it has a cadence sensor, does a juice bike show RPM on the LCD display? If not, why not?

It does not. I wondered about that. Probably because it's a universal controller and not custom-designed for the CCX or any bike with a cadence sensor.

No problem - I have a Garmin 130 and the new cadence sensor from Garmin. It's very simple now - no magnet on the spokes. You just wrap the sensor around the axle and you're done. At some point I'm going to move it from my road bike but cadence is really an afterthought on my CCX.
 
It does not. I wondered about that. Probably because it's a universal controller and not custom-designed for the CCX or any bike with a cadence sensor.

No problem - I have a Garmin 130 and the new cadence sensor from Garmin. It's very simple now - no magnet on the spokes. You just wrap the sensor around the axle and you're done. At some point I'm going to move it from my road bike but cadence is really an afterthought on my CCX.
I asked cause AFAIK I don't think any of the Bafang rear hub bikes and their controllers and LCD displays show RPM (I've tried 4 different LCD displays and they don't show RPM). Yet all of them have a cadence sensor. So I don't know why they don't bring that out in the LCD like my wife's Haibike Yamaha mid drive bike does.
BTW, I use Wahoo Elemnt Bolt on all our regular bikes with the wahoo cadence and speed sensor which are similar to the Garmin ones.
 
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Yes you can disable torque sensor. Tora was showing on Juiced YouTube channel how to do it.

I personally much rather have cadence sensor than torque sensor.. and some of other members on this forum said the same thing.

Everytime I ride an ebike with torque sensor, sometimes I can't even tell whether or not the motor is working.
Yes, it does give me "natural cycling feel" since torque sensor does such good job hiding the assist, but me personally cadence sensor is a lot more fun.
The other thing about torque sensor is it saves battery because it won't make bike go zippy all the time, but I prefer the zippy-ness more than extended battery range.

For me, torque sensor was $200 option from Juiced, so I was like no thanks.

Cadence and Torque sensors are not competing sensors they are actually complementary.

Now if you like only cadence sensor well that's good for you.

However, imo, torque sensor is simply a must have today. When you have a torque sensor you have proportional support which not only gives the natural feel but more than that it changes the way you ride. Once you find the right amount of support you don't even have to fiddle with the assist level, you just ride it like a normal bike. Also a torque sensor output can be used to measure riders pedal input power hence it can be used as a power meter and power meters are quite expensive.
 
Cadence and Torque sensors are not competing sensors they are actually complementary.

Now if you like only cadence sensor well that's good for you.

However, imo, torque sensor is simply a must have today. When you have a torque sensor you have proportional support which not only gives the natural feel but more than that it changes the way you ride. Once you find the right amount of support you don't even have to fiddle with the assist level, you just ride it like a normal bike. Also a torque sensor output can be used to measure riders pedal input power hence it can be used as a power meter and power meters are quite expensive.

Thanks for this information Johnny. I only know the CCX and cadence+torque. I do love that I can put a little more pressure to the pedals and bump up from 14mph to 17mph without touching the shifters or assist level. This must be what you are talking about. I'm anxious to disable the torque sensor tomorrow and see what cadence-only is like. Who knows, I might love it.

It's great to have those options, however.
 
Maybe I've managed to miss it, but I don't think there's another 11 tooth option for a freewheel unit
I don't believe there is either. In fact I even said that myself in the post you replied to. That fact has nothing to do with my point.
I can't remember anyone that's written in regarding a failure. That in itself is a testament regarding it's quality.
They exist, regardless of whether you remember them. The logic of your second sentence, that your personal lack of knowledge of these posts is somehow an indication of universal quality, is not exactly textbook logical reasoning ;)

I can specifically remember at least one post where it failed on a Radrover (which were the first bikes anyone tried them on, so they have been tested longer there ... not to mention they likely get harder service) as well as posts where people have shared that their bike mechanics told them they are not very good.
Sure, anything can fail, and it may fail eventually, but it's not much of a concern here. That day will not be the end of the world. If it fails, I bolted this one on, I can sure as heck replace it if need be some day. Who knows, maybe a "better" one will be available then? -Al
I don't disagree, and I never said otherwise. Understand that I have one myself in fact, and do not regret making the change (once again, something I already said in my three line post that you were replying to).

All I was saying was that in light of the numerous comments here as well as elsewhere, it's curious that Court went out of his way to explicitly say they were "very high quality." If he had elaborated on WHY he said that, it would help a lot, but he did not. But that seems to be his Modus Operandi, after watching a number of his "reviews" I've yet to find any that are very critical, and I've come to conclude that they are only useful for the facts he shares, not his opinions. Even when you see a review of an upgraded model where he gushes about how so much vastly improved something is, you can go back to his review of the original model and he might have also been gushing about the now-inferior design/part. A reviewer's opinions are much less useful than it might otherwise be when the reviewer has been essentially universally positive about everything and anything he looks at.
 
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My point - considering the number in use, the vast majority seem to be working just fine, despite their less than stellar reputation based on a failure - that YOU remember.

I'm still recommending them to anyone interested. Benefits far outweigh the risk of a failure somewhere down the line.
 
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