Hi, I received and assembled my new bike yesterday (ANCHEER Electric Bike, 48V 500W 27.5" Electric Mountain Bike with Removable 48V 10Ah Battery and 21 Speed Gears). The power assist worked intermittently for two minutes, then stopped working. So I tried throttle set to on, and that worked intermittently for a few minutes, and now it's not working either. No motor power is functioning, although the display panel and lights work, so electricity is being delivered from the battery. I opened up the cable works and jiggled things around, then I got a second of assist before it cut out again. Any ideas? I'll take it to my local shop if it's beyond my limited skills, but if there's something easy I could do, please advise me, because this is a very frustrating way to start out with a new bike! Thanks for any help!
New Ancheer doesn't deliver power to the motor - wiring?
- Thread starter NateB
- Start date
harryS
Well-Known Member
Most new hub motor ebikes now use a connector on the motor cable to facilitate wheel removal for flat tires, etc. It's an extremely tight connector, which means it's often not fully inserted. It has two arrows for alignment. I don't suggest opening it, but maybe give both ends a push. Ancheer may be cheap and not use one, but take a look.
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The other thought is did you charge up the battery? They're shipped at partial charge, and if you tried to ride it like that, the bike controller may be shutting down the motor.
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The other thought is did you charge up the battery? They're shipped at partial charge, and if you tried to ride it like that, the bike controller may be shutting down the motor.
Thanks, harryS. I did fully charge it before its first use, so that's not the cause. It does NOT have that handy connector on the motor cable as per your photo, so that rules that out. I did notice a possible concern where the cable enters the hub, but on close inspection it looks to me like just the rubber housing is a little short there (see photos).
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Walk mode works continuously? Throttle and pedal assist come in thru different connectors and cables, so unlikely both are loose.
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Is it this model? These have the electronics inside the battery cradle and are less likely to have a rats nest of wires. Not much to go wrong with them externally other than a loose connector. If your bike has a display screen, there is usually a connector between it and the harness under the handlebars. You could reset that one.
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www.ancheer.shop
Hope you did buy it from a reseller that will support its return? Walmart.com sells Ancheer and does that.
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Is it this model? These have the electronics inside the battery cradle and are less likely to have a rats nest of wires. Not much to go wrong with them externally other than a loose connector. If your bike has a display screen, there is usually a connector between it and the harness under the handlebars. You could reset that one.
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SPARKS AMA5638-27.5” Mountain E-Bike With Removable Battery & 350W Motor
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www.ancheer.shop
Hope you did buy it from a reseller that will support its return? Walmart.com sells Ancheer and does that.
It's not exactly that model. The picture here shows it has all the wires connected in a separate box attached to the seat tube. I opened the box to see if there was anything obviously disconnected, but it looked okay, though I wouldn't know what to do with all that. I bought it on Amazon, from a Chinese reseller that doesn't give much info. So if I have to return it, hopefully Amazon will go to bat for me. No connector on the display screen cable.
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rich c
Well-Known Member
The best way to troubleshoot electrical issues is with a multimeter and start at the battery. Then work around the bike until you find where the electricity ain't. You have just discovered the down side of buying extremely cheap from an on-line seller. You are the mechanic and troubleshooter.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Then you have the rats nest I was talking about. An ebike tech would plug and unplug every connector one at a time, so as not to get lost. The bullet connectors to the motor (three - usually yellow, blue, green) could be left alone, Ditto for the red and white power wires on bullets.
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You might look for something like this too when the connectors are apart. Those metal fingers sometimes get loose, and don't make contact. .
Is there is a big white 2x3 plastic connector, five or six wires on it? Goes to motor cable, and its pins also can get loose. It's on the bottom of this picture which shows a proper ebike motor cable, with the quick disconnect socket I mentioned.
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You might look for something like this too when the connectors are apart. Those metal fingers sometimes get loose, and don't make contact. .
Is there is a big white 2x3 plastic connector, five or six wires on it? Goes to motor cable, and its pins also can get loose. It's on the bottom of this picture which shows a proper ebike motor cable, with the quick disconnect socket I mentioned.
Thanks. It has all the cables you've described. I opened, then reconnected, all the connectors (6 of them), plus the big white 2x3 plastic connector, but not the bullet connectors. I then rode it, and it delivered power assist for about 15 seconds. Then it cut out, and it's back to how it was before - the walking power function works, but no power while riding. Photos here show a connector that's a little crooked, and one finger that's a tiny bit shorter than the others. Those are the only problems I saw. Significant? In any case, that briefly restored power indicates that maybe something I did strengthened a loose connection but it remains too fragile to stay connected for long? I went through the whole disconnect/reconnect sequence a second time, but did not get power back after that. Is it time to learn how to use a multimeter? Replace the stuff in the pictures?
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Hmm, about the brake levers > brake switches > shutoff. I do have the impression that each time the power started out working, it was my first-time action of either shifting gears or maybe tapping the brakes that coincided with the power cutting out. But I don't know how to assess that.
The bike is behaving differently today. (1) If I set power assist to zero, the throttle will work, but it only delivers very minimal power. This may already have been the case - I didn't know about the zero setting - but it's not enough power to be useful. (2) Most times when I start, power assist kicks in for the first two seconds or so, then stops working. I don't know what's caused this change; I take these as good signs, but not good enough, for sure.
I'm following up with those who helped me to report that the problem was a faulty sensor on the bottom bracket. They sent me a replacement and that solved it. So the supplier handled the problem well and my local shop made the replacement easily. It was a big nuisance giving me some doubts about Ancheer, but now it runs great.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Thanks for getting back with us with the final solution. We ALL learn that way!
And congrats on mustering up the patience to see the issue through!! Betting you have a clearer understanding of how your bike works for your trouble though....
And congrats on mustering up the patience to see the issue through!! Betting you have a clearer understanding of how your bike works for your trouble though....
Morgan71
New Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
I have the full instructions for ANCHEER controller/lcd wireing etc
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