Need help with brakes.

[K78]

I’m really struggling with choosing brakes for my ebike build. I’ve been attempting to order them all day but keep changing my mind.

Initially I was going to order MT5‘s because they are a bargain, then I seen MT5 eStops. Great a ebike version, then I seen MT5e.

It seems the MT5e are the ones to go for but they are twice the price of the regular MT5’s. Which makes me start looking at Hope V4’s again.

Are the Hopes worth the premium over the MT5e?

Advice would be appreciated. Got loads of parts to order but brakes are the only area I can’t decide.

Thanks

 

[tomjasz]

MT5e are the ones to go for but they are twice the price of the regular MT5’s.

MT5e has integrated brake cutouts. They tie into my build harnesses with Higo connectors

 

[K78]

MT5e has integrated brake cutouts. They tie into my build harnesses with Higo connectors

Does that mean they cut the power to the motor?

Im very new to all this.

 

[Taylor57]

Does that mean they cut the power to the motor?

Im very new to all this.

Yes. If you are a beginning Ebiker without a local bike shop, I would encourage mechanical brakes. The hydraulics can be a little tricky.

 

[K78]

Yes. If you are a beginning Ebiker without a local bike shop, I would encourage mechanical brakes. The hydraulics can be a little tricky.

Brakes have changed a lot since my last bike

I have a local bike shop. They’re going to build my bike. As you say hydraulics are a bit tricky so I didn’t want to mess anything up.

Hope seem to be a bit more beginner friendly than Magura. I’ve read Magura need constant adjustment and bleeding is difficult.

 

[tomjasz]

I’ve read Magura need constant adjustment and bleeding is difficult.

Being new to hydraulics myself, and thinking I'll never likely be upgrading all my eBikes to hydraulic, I just use the local bike shop.

"I read", is a dangerous phrase given there's no attribution and LOTS of misinformation in forums and opinions from those that may have bitten off more than they can chew.

Magura is known globally for its motorcycle hydraulics, great build quality, and top support.
If you're riding over 20MPH they are a must by many accounts.

IMO a slower bike with Avid mechanical disc brakes is a decent option.

 

[smorgasbord]

I disagree that hydraulic brakes are harder to maintain than cable-driven brakes. If you're able to diagnose, debug, and fix issues with cable-driven brakes you have the skills needed to do the same on hydraulics. I actually find them easier!
With hydraulics, you simply need to:

• Check pads for wear (same)
• Not have leaks
• Follow the bleeding procedures to remove air from the system

Park Tool has a few good videos on bleeding different brake systems. You don't have to buy their multi-manufacturer kits, you just need a simple kit for the brand you have. For Shimano, all you really need is the filler cup with threaded bottom and a spacer block so you can remove the pads and squeeze down. SRAM isn't much different, but they use DOT brake fluid, which isn't as spill friendly as mineral oil. I don't have experience with Magura brakes.

With hydraulics, braking performance mostly comes down to:

• Piston area. 4-pistons (2 each side) are usually better than 2-pistons (1 each side).
• Lever design. Newer designs have compound action that require less finger pressure.
• Lever adjustment. Higher priced models let you adjust the lever position and engage point.
• Pads. You can go OEM or there are many aftermarket pads from which to choose. Resin pads are cheap and quiet, but usually wear more quickly and won't work as well under continual braking (heat build-ups). Metallic pads are expensive, but noisy until heated and they wear your rotors out sooner. There are Semi-metallic pads that are a compromise between the two.

At any rate, for an e-bike I would not shy away from hydraulic brakes at all.

 

[K78]

Being new to hydraulics myself, and thinking I'll never likely be upgrading all my eBikes to hydraulic, I just use the local bike shop.

"I read", is a dangerous phrase given there's no attribution and LOTS of misinformation in forums and opinions from those that may have bitten off more than they can chew.

Magura is known globally for its motorcycle hydraulics, great build quality, and top support.
If you're riding over 20MPH they are a must by many accounts.

IMO a slower bike with Avid mechanical disc brakes is a decent option.

I don’t doubt how powerful Magura brakes are. Various owners on forums say they are difficult to bleed, noisy and need the levers swapping out.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I don’t doubt how powerful Magura brakes are. Various owners on forums say they are difficult to bleed, noisy and need the levers swapping out.

No I had them they were fine and no harder to bleed them my shimano. What I did not like was I could not use 1 finger or two fingers it took too much effort. But that made them less finicky

 

[K78]

No I had them they were fine and no harder to bleed them my shimano. What I did not like was I could not use 1 finger or two fingers it took too much effort. But that made them less finicky

The MT5 pro have one finger levers. I think from the MT7’s.

The shop who are fitting them recommend the Hope V4’s. They say they are as good as Trickstuff brakes, which completely went over my head as I had never heard of them. I have no issue buying them if they’re worth the extra £200, but I can’t see any issue with the MT5 Pro.

The shop say they see bikes on a regular basis with broken MT5 levers but I’m guessing they’re the standard levers.

 

[Gordon71]

Yes. If you are a beginning Ebiker without a local bike shop, I would encourage mechanical brakes. The hydraulics can be a little tricky.

How about mechanically operated hydraulic calipers. I switched to those and like them a lot.

 

[TrevorB]

What bike do you have and what type of riding do you do?.
Hydraulic bikes leave cable ones for dead when comes to performance and maintenance. Cables stretch and need regular adjustment and lubing. More adjustment when pads are changed.


For cargo bike or hardcore MTBing 4pot Magura 5,7 or Shimano SLX M7120.

Light MTB or just general riding then 2pot Magura 5 or Shimano Deore M6100 or SLX M7100.
With Shimano 20 at end means 4 pot, which use different pads to 2pots.
SLX have thumbscrew for reach adjustment which can be done while riding, Deore need allen key. Braking performance is very similar. Bleeding is straight forward if you choose to do it your self, see youtube.

I run Shimano SLX 2pot and buy pads from Aliexpress for <USD10 pair. Most bike shops sell them. Hope pads maybe bit harder and more expensive to come by.

 

[K78]

What bike do you have and what type of riding do you do?.
Hydraulic bikes leave cable ones for dead when comes to performance and maintenance. Cables stretch and need regular adjustment and lubing. More adjustment when pads are changed.


For cargo bike or hardcore MTBing 4pot Magura 5,7 or Shimano SLX M7120.

Light MTB or just general riding then 2pot Magura 5 or Shimano Deore M6100 or SLX M7100.
With Shimano 20 at end means 4 pot, which use different pads to 2pots.
SLX have thumbscrew for reach adjustment which can be done while riding, Deore need allen key. Braking performance is very similar. Bleeding is straight forward if you choose to do it your self, see youtube.

I run Shimano SLX 2pot and buy pads from Aliexpress for <USD10 pair. Most bike shops sell them. Hope pads maybe bit harder and more expensive to come by.

Bike will be mixed road/light trail use. Only got the frame, fork and rear shock so far.

Was just about to order my bars but I think higher rise might be better. Thinking of buying cheap ones until I find the height I like.

Motor: Bafang M560 (released May 23)

Battery: Custom

Frame: FM MD17 Carbon

Suspension fork: RockShox Zeb Ultimate 150mm

Damper: RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate Coil

Brakes: Hope V4 or Magura MT5

Drivetrain: Microshift Acolyte CS-H083 12-46T

Wheels: Hope Fortus 35 29”

Tyres: Schwalbe Johnny Watts/Pickup Super Defense.

Stem: Hope AM 35mm 29

Handle bars: Hope carbon 35mm

Peddles: Hope F20

Cranks: Hope 155mm E-bike crankset

 

[TrevorB]

If motor is torque sensing middrive you don't need brakes with cutout switch. Any quality MTB brakes will do job, don't have to be eBike versions.

Given you aren't doing serious downhill stuff any quality 2pot caliper with cheaper resin pads and rotor 200mm on front and 200mm on back should be fine. Your choice of brakes Hope, Magura 5 or Shimano SLX. They are all good brakes.

For serious downhill start paying lot more for quality rotors and finned pads that can handle high brake temperatures from repetitive hard braking.

Spending a bit more on 4pot caliper (front at less) and sintered pad compatible rotors would future proof it.

I do similar riding to with SLX 2pot resin plus 200 and 180mm rotors and never felt I needed more.

While shop is best for advice they may be tempted to sell you more than you need. Price aside you won't regret running quality brakes.

 

[K78]

If motor is torque sensing middrive you don't need brakes with cutout switch. Any quality MTB brakes will do job, don't have to be eBike versions.

Given you aren't doing serious downhill stuff any quality 2pot caliper with cheaper resin pads and rotor 200mm on front and 200mm on back should be fine. Your choice of brakes Hope, Magura 5 or Shimano SLX. They are all good brakes.

For serious downhill start paying lot more for quality rotors and finned pads that can handle high brake temperatures from repetitive hard braking.

Spending a bit more on 4pot caliper (front at less) and sintered pad compatible rotors would future proof it.

I do similar riding to with SLX 2pot resin plus 200 and 180mm rotors and never felt I needed more.

While shop is best for advice they may be tempted to sell you more than you need. Price aside you won't regret running quality brakes.

The shop say the hopes are expensive compared to the Maguras, but in their opinion are better value as they are as good as trickstuff.

I don’t mind spending on brakes. I got a good deal on my frame, fork and shock so the extra £200 on brakes isn’t so bad. If it was £120 vs £400 like I thought it was initially I would have gone with Magura.

Hope are a local company and make quality parts so I don’t mind buying them.

 

[K78]

Might have a rethink with some of the hope stuff.

Shop came back with a price for V4 brake set, bars, stem, cranks, pedals and 29 wheels. £1500 plus fitting.

 

[TrevorB]

See how much a set of Shimano SLX brakes are.

 

[fooferdoggie]

See how much a set of Shimano SLX brakes are.

XTs are great no use going to the added cost not a big difference mostly weight.

 

[K78]

See how much a set of Shimano SLX brakes are.

Less than half the price of the Hopes.

 

[smorgasbord]

Review of the Hope V4 here:

Hope Tech 4 V4 brakes review

Hope ups the power

www.bikeradar.com

BTW, the Shimano M7100's are 2 piston brakes, while the Hopes are 4 piston. Shimano does make a number of 4 piston brakes as well, including the M7120s. Review of those here:

Shimano SLX M7120 disc brakes review

Mid-range Shimano stoppers with plenty of top-end features

www.bikeradar.com

Still cheaper than the Hope's, but not half the price. You might also consider the price of replacement pads - the 7120's are finned for heat reduction, so cost more than normal non-finned pads.