Need help diagnosing!

P

Paulmyoung

New Member
Region
USA
Hi —
I own an Ecotric Rocket 36v and am having trouble diagnosing. I turn on display and as soon as I turn throttle, display dies and bike has no power. Display stays on when I turn pedals only and don’t touch the throttle. Tested battery, battery wires and controller output with a voltmeter and all three showed 42v. Attempted to replace the display with no luck. Any suggestions on where to look next or what could be wrong?
 
How old is the battery? Can you ride in the highest PAS w/o it also shutting off the bike? What display is it, LCD or LED?
 
You need a continuous voltage reading. Something you can both ride and watch the voltage. I bought two bad batteries. One would read nominal voltage (41-54.6) sitting still. Performed fine on flats. As soon as I climbed the first hill it would drop to 7 v. It would stay at 7 volt after I rode back to base, so I got my money back from Amazon.
The other would read nominal voltage until I climbed the first hill, when it would collapse to 11.3 v. As soon as I cut the throttle back, it would bounce back to nominal voltage. I had to bring that battery to town and rig up a test jig involving 500 W resistors that would waste 10 A while I read the voltage, to catch the battery voltage collapsing. This took 90 days so I didn't get my money back from e-bay.
I bought a throttle that had a voltage indicator on it. Works whether bike is turned on or off. Lacking that, you need to wire a voltmeter on an ever-hot wire like the alarm power or something similar. If the voltage from battery is staying nominal under all conditions, then the wiring is bad to the controller, or the controller is bad, or the display is bad.
 
indianajo said:
You need a continuous voltage reading. Something you can both ride and watch the voltage. I bought two bad batteries. One would read nominal voltage (41-54.6) sitting still. Performed fine on flats. As soon as I climbed the first hill it would drop to 7 v. It would stay at 7 volt after I rode back to base, so I got my money back from Amazon.
The other would read nominal voltage until I climbed the first hill, when it would collapse to 11.3 v. As soon as I cut the throttle back, it would bounce back to nominal voltage. I had to bring that battery to town and rig up a test jig involving 500 W resistors that would waste 10 A while I read the voltage, to catch the battery voltage collapsing. This took 90 days so I didn't get my money back from e-bay.
I bought a throttle that had a voltage indicator on it. Works whether bike is turned on or off. Lacking that, you need to wire a voltmeter on an ever-hot wire like the alarm power or something similar. If the voltage from battery is staying nominal under all conditions, then the wiring is bad to the controller, or the controller is bad, or the display is bad.
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks for the info. I will try and let you know how it works
 
harryS said:
How old is the battery? Can you ride in the highest PAS w/o it also shutting off the bike? What display is it, LCD or LED?
Click to expand...
Battery is about 2 yrs old — bike shuts off as soon as you pedal or use throttle. Not sure what display is but it’s pretty basic
 
I've owned Ecotric. That happened with my battery after 25 months. Shut off several miles after a full charge to 42V. It was reading about 40V when it shut off. It was extremely unbalanced.

What can i say. They and many of their competitors use cheap cells that start to wear out around 25 months.
|
Replacement is the only option.
 
Paulmyoung said:
Hi —
I own an Ecotric Rocket 36v and am having trouble diagnosing. I turn on display and as soon as I turn throttle, display dies and bike has no power. Display stays on when I turn pedals only and don’t touch the throttle. Tested battery, battery wires and controller output with a voltmeter and all three showed 42v. Attempted to replace the display with no luck. Any suggestions on where to look next or what could be wrong?
Click to expand...
Ya sorry but I can not figure how post so ya I have a48vdc 1000watt rear hub motor everything works but I frost wire 1day and now it will not go full speed at sand still it just shuts off but only with me on it I put it in the air and runs fine with no rider help it my only way to work please thank you
 
bms and maby cells i test the cells again to see but i think i did i have been on this for almost 3weeks the battery is new the hole bike brand new i just built it
 
i tested bms on all points has power and tested point on battery connections reads 4.3 and 4.2 i think that what it was i tested the control for blown mosfets it all checks out so far
 
battery brand new well 1month old hole bike pretty new it just messen with me i can not put my finger on the answer all was 1kit it has to be controller or bms right?
 
harryS said:
I've owned Ecotric. That happened with my battery after 25 months. Shut off several miles after a full charge to 42V. It was reading about 40V when it shut off. It was extremely unbalanced.

What can i say. They and many of their competitors use cheap cells that start to wear out around 25 months.
|
Replacement is the only option.
Click to expand...
ya but my hole kits only 1 month old brand new
 
indianajo said:
You need a continuous voltage reading. Something you can both ride and watch the voltage. I bought two bad batteries. One would read nominal voltage (41-54.6) sitting still. Performed fine on flats. As soon as I climbed the first hill it would drop to 7 v. It would stay at 7 volt after I rode back to base, so I got my money back from Amazon.
The other would read nominal voltage until I climbed the first hill, when it would collapse to 11.3 v. As soon as I cut the throttle back, it would bounce back to nominal voltage. I had to bring that battery to town and rig up a test jig involving 500 W resistors that would waste 10 A while I read the voltage, to catch the battery voltage collapsing. This took 90 days so I didn't get my money back from e-bay.
I bought a throttle that had a voltage indicator on it. Works whether bike is turned on or off. Lacking that, you need to wire a voltmeter on an ever-hot wire like the alarm power or something similar. If the voltage from battery is staying nominal under all conditions, then the wiring is bad to the controller, or the controller is bad, or the display is bad.
Click to expand...
that's rather entrusting my before i shorted was no problem i was able to fly up around any ware then i shorted it dang
 
indianajo said:
You need a continuous voltage reading. Something you can both ride and watch the voltage. I bought two bad batteries. One would read nominal voltage (41-54.6) sitting still. Performed fine on flats. As soon as I climbed the first hill it would drop to 7 v. It would stay at 7 volt after I rode back to base, so I got my money back from Amazon.
The other would read nominal voltage until I climbed the first hill, when it would collapse to 11.3 v. As soon as I cut the throttle back, it would bounce back to nominal voltage. I had to bring that battery to town and rig up a test jig involving 500 W resistors that would waste 10 A while I read the voltage, to catch the battery voltage collapsing. This took 90 days so I didn't get my money back from e-bay.
I bought a throttle that had a voltage indicator on it. Works whether bike is turned on or off. Lacking that, you need to wire a voltmeter on an ever-hot wire like the alarm power or something similar. If the voltage from battery is staying nominal under all conditions, then the wiring is bad to the controller, or the controller is bad, or the display is bad.
Click to expand...
that's rather entrusting my before i shorted was no problem i was able to fly up around any ware then i shorted it da
Paulmyoung said:
Awesome thanks for the info. I will try and let you know how it works
Click to expand...
well i got a meter just for that so that should foot the bill i can hook it to battery terminals again i had it on there but took it off
 
indianajo said:
You need a continuous voltage reading. Something you can both ride and watch the voltage. I bought two bad batteries. One would read nominal voltage (41-54.6) sitting still. Performed fine on flats. As soon as I climbed the first hill it would drop to 7 v. It would stay at 7 volt after I rode back to base, so I got my money back from Amazon.
The other would read nominal voltage until I climbed the first hill, when it would collapse to 11.3 v. As soon as I cut the throttle back, it would bounce back to nominal voltage. I had to bring that battery to town and rig up a test jig involving 500 W resistors that would waste 10 A while I read the voltage, to catch the battery voltage collapsing. This took 90 days so I didn't get my money back from e-bay.
I bought a throttle that had a voltage indicator on it. Works whether bike is turned on or off. Lacking that, you need to wire a voltmeter on an ever-hot wire like the alarm power or something similar. If the voltage from battery is staying nominal under all conditions, then the wiring is bad to the controller, or the controller is bad, or the display is bad.
Click to expand...
Paulmyoung said:
Hi —
I own an Ecotric Rocket 36v and am having trouble diagnosing. I turn on display and as soon as I turn throttle, display dies and bike has no power. Display stays on when I turn pedals only and don’t touch the throttle. Tested battery, battery wires and controller output with a voltmeter and all three showed 42v. Attempted to replace the display with no luck. Any suggestions on where to look next or what could be wrong?
Click to expand...
 
i do not have all thing regular ebike has it was a kit non circle connectors 48vdc 1000w
 
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