My Falco 750 W HX motor kit

[Bike_On]

Odometer is something that's on the LCD Display. If your Display isn't retaining settings that's probably a different issue. But yes, the firmware update on the Motor was a piece of cake. Cameron over at Falco was able to control my PC remotely (actually my Mac Laptop running Parallels) with "Team Viewer" and he downloaded the necessary files and installed them from his end. All I had to do was hook up the cable to the motor.

I also upgraded my Battery to the 48V version today, and I can really feel the difference. It has more power and it seems to have a quite a bit more range. I went to the Gym and back and still had all four LEDs lit up and it was still showing 48V (out of 51V at full charge). Used to drain well over half of the 36V. Of course that could be because I was running on Level 4 part of the time today, whereas with the 36V I was always at Level 5.

The great news is, it runs great. It n0w bypasses the Torque Sensor and keeps the motor powered on when you're riding at high speeds. It used to just kind of power on and off if you didn't pedal hard enough. So much improved there. I averaged about 35 mph on the Flats and hit an all time high of 41 mph today for a brief period with the wind at my back. It's definitely got smoother power delivery and I'm very happy with the result. I will not be needing to upgrade to the 750 watt kit after all.

Side note: LOVE the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires I put on today. They feel really grippy and they are supposed to be bomb proof. I went with a wider tire in the back to give the motor a little more air under it, so now it's kind of set up like a dragster.

Bareyb -

Q) So you have the 48V battery with the 500W hub? I am considering that. It will get more power. Do you have any thermal cutbacks during warm weather? If I run too hard on hills, I get that after 5 miles or so.

Wow, the 48V will spin it up on hills, yes?

About the firmware, do you have a throttle? I know what you mean by the motor staying on and not cutting out too soon. Mine use to do that until i got a new program and tweeked the setting. Now, it runs more like a cadence sensor and I have to brake to have it cut off! Settings need refined.

Does your console now read voltahe, Current and Ahrs? I have a beta version that did, but it scrolls and is small and inaccurate. The CA is 10x easier to see and use.

 

[bareyb]

Bareyb -

Q) So you have the 48V battery with the 500W hub? I am considering that. It will get more power. Do you have any thermal cutbacks during warm weather? If I run too hard on hills, I get that after 5 miles or so.

Wow, the 48V will spin it up on hills, yes?

About the firmware, do you have a throttle? I know what you mean by the motor staying on and not cutting out too soon. Mine use to do that until i got a new program and tweeked the setting. Now, it runs more like a cadence sensor and I have to brake to have it cut off! Settings need refined.

Does your console now read voltahe, Current and Ahrs? I have a beta version that did, but it scrolls and is small and inaccurate. The CA is 10x easier to see and use.

Yep, I have an unrestricted throttle at any speed and it takes priority over the TS. With the new firmware I got today, It's much more like a Cadence Sensor at higher speeds which is exactly what I wanted and what I asked for. It doesn't cut out if I don't pedal hard enough now. Which I really like... He told me only "a few people have this Firmware" and it sounds like you and I are two of them.

My console did not get that upgrade you are talking about. Still just does the regular stuff. Not much there. As for the 48V Battery? It did NOT seem to have the same Thermal cutback that I always got with the 36V! I wasn't sure if it was just me since I push mine so hard Lol. And yes, it was about 5 miles in when it would limit power for me too.

As for the 48V battery? If you can afford it, DO IT!!! Beyond the Thermal Cutback improvements, there's also a very noticeable improvement in power delivery and range. If you thought it was smooth and quiet before, wait till you try it with the 48V battery.

It was a very simple process to install it too. Basically change out the sled (two screws), unplug the old battery, and plug in the new one. You'll need to tweak the Clamping Values in the Falco Interface and I'll be happy to fill you in on what they are if you upgrade. They might let you exchange your 36V for the 48V. You'll have to pay a 25% restocking fee, but hey, it's still a nice discount on the new battery if you can get them to do it for you.

 

[Bike_On]

Yep, I have an unrestricted throttle at any speed and it takes priority over the TS. With the new firmware I got today, It's much more like a Cadence Sensor at higher speeds which is exactly what I wanted and what I asked for. It doesn't cut out if I don't pedal hard enough now. Which I really like... He told me only "a few people have this Firmware" and it sounds like you and I are two of them.

My console did not get that upgrade you are talking about. Still just does the regular stuff. Not much there. As for the 48V Battery? It did NOT seem to have the same Thermal cutback that I always got with the 36V! I wasn't sure if it was just me since I push mine so hard Lol. And yes, it was about 5 miles in when it would limit power for me too.

As for the 48V battery? If you can afford it, DO IT!!! Beyond the Thermal Cutback improvements, there's also a very noticeable improvement in power delivery and range. If you thought it was smooth and quiet before, wait till you try it with the 48V battery.

It was a very simple process to install it too. Basically change out the sled (two screws), unplug the old battery, and plug in the new one. You'll need to tweak the Clamping Values in the Falco Interface and I'll be happy to fill you in on what they are if you upgrade.

Nice, very nice.

From your previous post, did you measure your battery voltage? How did you know it's start and finish level?

If/when I go 48V, I will transfer to my Trek DS8.5 bike.

What is your bike?

Those tires you have are great and make the ride much better. I'll have 38mm on mine.

 

[bareyb]

Nice, very nice.

From your previous post, did you measure your battery voltage? How did you know it's start and finish level?

If/when I go 48V, I will transfer to my Trek DS8.5 bike.

What is your bike?

Those tires you have are great and make the ride much better. I'll have 38mm on mine.

My Console has always shown battery voltage (once I paired it with the motor), but it doesn't have Current or AH. It's just the standard one.

Here's mine with the 36V battery. Circa 1990 Bianchi Backstreet. I have't had a chance to take any pics with the new battery, tires, and freewheel yet.

 

[MLB]

Wow, we sure have different desires here.
And the awesome thing is the Falco kit can work for both of us.

I've ridden up to 30 miles in a day in the 5 days I've had it up and never run it down, but my battery "fuel gauge" doens't work so i don't know how far down it it.
It has plenty of power for me and apparently plenty of range with my low settings. All I need is 30-40miles with me peddling the whole time. (I am 225lbs)
I love to bike. I love the workout and going "slow" (workout speed, but slow compared to you) and smelling the roses. (relative: I'm faster than anyone I ride with on an unassisted bicycle. I ride hard.)
To me the perfect setup is one where it feels like a normal bike unless I need a little extra help. OR I just want to up my speed about 3-4mph while still exerting my cruising speed (target heart rate) effort.
That "seems" to be level 1-2 for me. 1 for feeling like a normal bike, what I do for most of my ride. Then #2 for that extra 3-4mph for the same effort and a nice extra boost on any hills or whenever you want to apply some torque to the pedals.
I didn't install the throttle at all, no desire. I'm sure I'd give into the temptation to cheat too often. LOL
I've played with all the levels and Wheeeeeee, that's fun. But I have no need for the speed and I choose to ride on the oh soo smooth bike paths in my city. There reducing speed is the only safe option. If I was commuting like you, I'd be doing the same thing as you in all likelihood.
Have fun with it, but be CAREFUL! There are going to be a lot of people hurt on these bikes in the coming days. 40mph is awfully fast to be sliding on concrete. Those are MOTORCYCLE ROAD RASH speeds............
On bicycle tires.....
with teeny tiny little contact patches where the tire meets the road

 

[Bike_On]

Yep, I have an unrestricted throttle at any speed and it takes priority over the TS. With the new firmware I got today, It's much more like a Cadence Sensor at higher speeds which is exactly what I wanted and what I asked for. It doesn't cut out if I don't pedal hard enough now. Which I really like... He told me only "a few people have this Firmware" and it sounds like you and I are two of them.

My console did not get that upgrade you are talking about. Still just does the regular stuff. Not much there. As for the 48V Battery? It did NOT seem to have the same Thermal cutback that I always got with the 36V! I wasn't sure if it was just me since I push mine so hard Lol. And yes, it was about 5 miles in when it would limit power for me too.

As for the 48V battery? If you can afford it, DO IT!!! Beyond the Thermal Cutback improvements, there's also a very noticeable improvement in power delivery and range. If you thought it was smooth and quiet before, wait till you try it with the 48V battery.

It was a very simple process to install it too. Basically change out the sled (two screws), unplug the old battery, and plug in the new one. You'll need to tweak the Clamping Values in the Falco Interface and I'll be happy to fill you in on what they are if you upgrade. They might let you exchange your 36V for the 48V. You'll have to pay a 25% restocking fee, but hey, it's still a nice discount on the new battery if you can get them to do it for you.

Barley,
Q. Do you get any vibration kickback when the motor cuts out (after stop pedaling). I get some.

Your have me s9old on 48V. I need to use up my 36V battery first...unless I find a great 48V deal.

Q. What is your 48V battery voltage down to after 15 miles?

Yes, the console does show Battery as standard. I forgot. I have a beta version that scrolls through I (Instant current) and Ahrs (Energy). I find these are inaccurate, hard to see, hard to reset and use. So is the ODO not accurate. So I use the console to communicate and set the levels/regen via +/-. The speed is accurate, so I do look at that...But I also have a CA and a Garmin. Speed ^3.

 

[bareyb]

Barley,
Q. Do you get any vibration kickback when the motor cuts out (after stop pedaling). I get some.

Your have me s9old on 48V. I need to use up my 36V battery first...unless I find a great 48V deal.

Q. What is your 48V battery voltage down to after 15 miles?

Yes, the console does show Battery as standard. I forgot. I have a beta version that scrolls through I (Instant current) and Ahrs (Energy). I find these are inaccurate, hard to see, hard to reset and use. So is the ODO not accurate. So I use the console to communicate and set the levels/regen via +/-. The speed is accurate, so I do look at that...But I also have a CA and a Garmin. Speed ^3.

A: I think I do get that vibration thing every now and then. It kind of makes a weird sound too.

A: I think you will be very happy with the 48V. It's like a different bike.

A: It starts at about 52V at full Charge. I've only taken it on 6 mile trips to work and back so far, and it's still pumping out 48V when I get back and I lose about one LED. The same trip would eat 1/2 to 3/4 of my 36V, so I'm definitely getting better range out of the 48V version.

 

[MLB]

I get the occasional "drag" feel for part of a rotation sometimes.
I just rode 18 miles. Avg 17mph and went from 41v to 39v.

 

[MLB]

Talked to Rakesh today and the only thing the firmware update does is changes the console display to their new default modes, mph is locked, cruise is locked, display time before it goes asleep increased, backlit time increased, 1 or 2 other settings. Doesn't change motor settings. I guess what you're feeling is the 48v difference.
I do get the thermal thing I'm sure, by the end of the ride it was awfully hard to get assist to kick in, even when I turned it up to 5.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

 

[bareyb]

I get the occasional "drag" feel for part of a rotation sometimes.
I just rode 18 miles. Avg 17mph and went from 41v to 39v.

What level of assist (1-5) to you ride at?

 

[MLB]

What level of assist (1-5) to you ride at?

Usually part of the time at 1 and part at 2. We had some hills today so towards the end of the ride I increased it to 3-4-5 and assist still didn't kick in any more than it did at level 2 when the motor is cool.

 

[Bike_On]

I get the occasional "drag" feel for part of a rotation sometimes.
I just rode 18 miles. Avg 17mph and went from 41v to 39v.

MLB,

I use to get that momentary "drag" feel after I stopped pedaling and the motor seemed to cross over into a slight re-gen mode as it cut off. That is when I would hear an occasional vibration too.

The newer firmware took that away, and it is much smoother.

Playing with the settings effects the turn off time, etc. I set mine up more of a cadence sensor, Like Barley.

I like the Falco because of the flexible settings, the PAS and the throttle. It can be programmed to override the 20mph if desired a speed pedelec at 28mph at the 3-5 settings. At 1-2, like you, you get a nice workout with assist and a bump in average speed.

I am awaiting a new wheel build and plan to install on a different bike - Trek DS 8.5. It has a more relaxed ride, front suspension, bigger tires, but will roll slower. I will start off at 36V, and leave off the throttle and CA.

 

[bareyb]

I just got a new firmware update too and it's like a new bike. Doesn't cycle on and off at high speed now. Personally, I think Falco should use this firmware for all bikes going forward. It's as close to perfect as any e-bike I've ridden, and better than most of the production models since they are limited to 28 mph.

 

[Bike_On]

I just got a new firmware update too and it's like a new bike. Doesn't cycle on and off at high speed now. Personally, I think Falco should use this firmware for all bikes going forward. It's as close to perfect as any e-bike I've ridden, and better than most of the production models since they are limited to 28 mph.

Only 28mph? I prefer the wind, the gears, the voltage and my legs to set the limit. I will spin out and hit 37-38mph on a straight, smooth -4% grade, tuck and then throttle to maintain speed.

 

[bareyb]

Only 28mph? I prefer the wind, the gears, the voltage and my legs to set the limit.

Agreed. It's annoying as hell. Just when you get them going, and then BAM! The motor just shuts off. The way my Falco is now, it's like it has a Cadence Sensor installed when you get to higher speeds. I've had mine up to 40 mph on the flats with a backwind. That ain't bad for a 500 watt motor.

 

[MLB]

You guys should try a motorcycle.

 

[bareyb]

You guys should try a motorcycle.

Too dangerous.

 

[MLB]

Too dangerous.

LOL, I have 3 motorcycles.
I feel a lot safer on any of them than on a bicycle at 40mph.
Bike tires are like inner tubes compared to motorcycle tires.
I'm also fully armored when i ride cycles. Shoulder and elbow pads, knee and hip and shin pads, gloves, full face helmet.
At 40mph road rash is all the same, bike or cycle. Are you dressed for the crash?

 

[bareyb]

LOL, I have 3 motorcycles.
I feel a lot safer on any of them than on a bicycle at 40mph.
Bike tires are like inner tubes compared to motorcycle tires.

I've ridden them all my life. Started on dirt bikes and graduated to street bikes. I've had Honda, Harley, Kawasaki, and Triumph. It's not the bikes that scare me, it's the other fools on the road. I sold my last Motorcycle after a distracted teenage driver on her iPhone rear ended me.

 

[MLB]

My battery isn't charging or well. The last two times i've put it back on the trike (always charged after riding) it's read 37v at the start. The first time I thought I must have forgotten to turn the power switch on the battery on and it hadn't charged though it was plugged in. Even though in retrospect I know that's not right because I always look for the LED. I've been using rechargeable batteries for 20 years. So tonight when I took off and it was again 37v I know I've got a problem.
The LED has never gone green, but it was always 41v after charging so I didn't worry about it.
Battery was down to 36v after my short ride but was on level 5 almost the whole time squeezing in a ride between the past 48hrs of rain here. And motor still performed great till the very end.
Anyone know at what voltage the motor restricts then stops assisting?