My bike's battery exploded

chris1

New Member
Region
USA
I was driving down a highway in northern California, with the bike on a rack behind my van. I heard a loud pop, hiss, and plume of white smoke. Pulled over right away, and the driver behind me says my van is on fire. I grabbed a fire extinguisher and ran outside to see the lower battery was spewing flames. It melted its way off the bike (luckily it was the lower battery...) and I was able to extinguish it and push it away before any other batteries caught fire (there was another bike on the rack too) or I lost my camper van.

I'm not sure why it happened. It was not a hot day, the bikes were covered with a tarp to keep them dry and the road was not rough.

Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand...you might just need it. Could have been so much worse for me. I can't imagine the battery going off indoors.
 
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Chris
What was the riding history on your bike, ie; lots of jumping, fast rock garden riding etc.
Had this battery been dropped or hit hard enough to dent the alum shell etc.
What was the motor rating? Are you going to rebuild or sell for parts?

Glad everything turned out OK, except the damage bike, that's a bummer.
Thanks,
Don
 
My bet is there was a wire that rubbed itself raw on a sharp edge, grounding it, or a similar sharp edge rubbed it's way through the side of a battery cell, allowing it to vent....
 
Chris
What was the riding history on your bike, ie; lots of jumping, fast rock garden riding etc.
Had this battery been dropped or hit hard enough to dent the alum shell etc.
What was the motor rating? Are you going to rebuild or sell for parts?

Glad everything turned out OK, except the damage bike, that's a bummer.
Thanks,
Don
No jumping, but some fire roads, atv trails and the like. The bike probably had 300-500 miles on it.

I won't be keeping it. Living in a camper van, I don't have the time to fix it. But I think it could be rebuilt, albeit with only one battery compartment. I am in the Portland area now if anyone wants a project.
 
The vibration a battery is subjected to on a rear rack would be a likely mitigating factor. Add what may well be cells not separated, no cell-level protection, and a featureless BMS for the perfect storm.
 
I imagine the battery is now unavailable I'd love to learn what the connections are.
Are they magnetic? Will a piece of the connecting ribbons stick to a magnet?
Screen Shot 2022-05-15 at 12.33.23 PM.png
 
I thought everyone took off the battery when bouncing down the highway? Having a rack cantilevered off the back only amplifies the movement and vibration. Pretty easy to get an electrical short like that.
That's my plan, but I do it to keep the battery dry and secure inside the vehicle. Guess I can add "to keep it from rattling around" to that list!
 
Looks like there might have been cell separation. Sellers of kits and finished bikes do a s*it job of warning and providing guidelines for best practices. I’m firmly in the camp with those that blame the makers not the ill informed buyers.
 
I thought everyone took off the battery when bouncing down the highway? Having a rack cantilevered off the back only amplifies the movement and vibration. Pretty easy to get an electrical short like that.
If you’re so smart…
The industry does a s*it job of educating buyers. I’ve done business with 9 different sellers. Some I still trust, but NONE include detailed care parameters and potential downfalls.
 
Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand...you might just need it. Could have been so much worse for me. I can't imagine the battery going off indoors.
What model of fire extinguisher did you use?
 
@chris1, you mentioned that your MD1000 is similar to what Bikonit sells. I just happened to see this thread listed in the "similar threads" below, which describes a recall on Bikonit batteries. Perhaps a related component? Maybe it gets you some compensation.

 
Chris
By any chance can you remove the remaining battery from the frame,
and see if you can read the serial number off the good? battery?
It would be nice to see that information.
Thanks,
Don
 
What model of fire extinguisher did you use?
I used a 5lb 3A:40B:C. I imagine the C (for electrical fire) was important. I think the smaller ones are often AB only. I did use almost all of the tank as well, so 5lb seems prudent. The one I used (First Alert Pro5) happens to be on sale at the Costco near me for $26--a bargain for how it can save you.

Edit: You probably only need a Class B extinguisher. In practice that means either the AB or ABC types will work. Just don't get the smallest bottle.
 
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Removing the battery when on a car rack is definitely a good idea. Just be mindful that leaving the battery in a car parked in the sun isn't ideal either.
 
I used a 5lb 3A:40B:C. I imagine the C (for electrical fire) was important. I think the smaller ones are often AB only. I did use almost all of the tank as well, so 5lb seems prudent. The one I used (First Alert Pro5) happens to be on sale at the Costco near me for $26--a bargain for how it can save you.
I guess the bat_mobile look is only cool on TV.
Good thing you were prepared.
 
A Class D Fire Extinguisher puts out combustible metal fires (magnesium, titanium, potassium, sodium, etc.)

Would this work better than an ABC extinguisher?
 
A Class D Fire Extinguisher puts out combustible metal fires (magnesium, titanium, potassium, sodium, etc.)

Would this work better than an ABC extinguisher?
There’s a lot of confusion regarding appropriate extinguisher chemistry. Battery fires are outrageously violent. I’m struggling to understand just what is correct
 
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