My bike with “130nm” can’t keep up with a trike with 90nm??

[icrude]

I have the 2025 cyberbike and the company tells me it has 130nm of torque but my daughter with the addmotor trike which only has 90nm goes up hills way quicker and easier even with a kid on the back then mine can. Am I missing something? 130nm sure seems like a lot but it definitely doesn’t feel like it.

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[Tom@WashDC]

I have the 2025 cyberbike and the company tells me it has 130nm of torque but my daughter with the addmotor trike which only has 90nm goes up hills way quicker and easier even with a kid on the back then mine can. Am I missing something? 130nm sure seems like a lot but it definitely doesn’t feel like it.

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OEM Tourque "ratings" are not indicitive of speed. I believe the addmotor is a rear hub drive? Rear hubs can be very fast, and can ramp up speed quickly, often faster than mid-drives. I ride an eMTB with a Bafang Ultra mid-drive rated at 165nm. I have an Aventon Level with a 90nm rear hub motor that is faster off the line and can get up to 28mph faster than my eMTB.
On the other hand, my eMTB can climb steeper hills.

You are not comparing apples to apples if you are just comparing OEM tourque ratings.There are many other variables.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Manufacturers use the torque figure for marketing but the torque figure without the rpm means nothing (as Tom said). Manufacturers are also vague about the true mechanical figure for the motor power. They often use the nominal electrical power value but say nothing of the mechanical power; peak power is often not mentioned at all. It is simply possible that your motor @icrude really has the 750 W maximum power (electrical or mechanical) but the Addmotor offers 1400 W of peak power (electrical or mechanical).

Whatever the published torque or power figures are, the Addmotor must be simply stronger than the motor used on Cyberbike. Of two motors of identical true mechanical peak power, a mid-drive is a way better climber.

 

[mrgold35]

For me, it comes down to the weight of the ebike+rider first and tq+gearing second for speed/hill climbing ability. We have identical 2016 Radrover 4" fat tire ebikes and the spouse (130lbs) leaves me behind (290lbs) on hill climbs. I just added a mid drive 10 speed with 1000w/160nm and she still climbs hills faster. I also have to change my mid-drive gearing and PAS level for maximize hill climbing; while, the spouse can just bump the throttle on her rear hub.

 

[kevinmccune]

OEM Tourque "ratings" are not indicitive of speed. I believe the addmotor is a rear hub drive? Rear hubs can be very fast, and can ramp up speed quickly, often faster than mid-drives. I ride an eMTB with a Bafang Ultra mid-drive rated at 165nm. I have an Aventon Level with a 90nm rear hub motor that is faster off the line and can get up to 28mph faster than my eMTB.
On the other hand, my eMTB can climb steeper hills.

You are not comparing apples to apples if you are just comparing OEM tourque ratings.There are many other variables.

watched a 500 watt trike easily pull up a 20% grade without pedaling that many 750 watt ebikes wouldnt go up without pedaling the trike had a rear drive hub motor that was incorperated into the drive train,pretty neat

 

[kevinmccune]

For me, it comes down to the weight of the ebike+rider first and tq+gearing second for speed/hill climbing ability. We have identical 2016 Radrover 4" fat tire ebikes and the spouse (130lbs) leaves me behind (290lbs) on hill climbs. I just added a mid drive 10 speed with 1000w/160nm and she still climbs hills faster. I also have to change my mid-drive gearing and PAS level for maximize hill climbing; while, the spouse can just bump the throttle on her rear hub.

i had a middrive torque sensor that didnt impress me at all, the thing is you get what you pay for and expectations must sometimes be adjusted,if you want "hillability" read the tests by "tailhappy" and citizen cycle" these are real time candid reviews for the most part.
'

 

[mrgold35]

i had a middrive torque sensor that didnt impress me at all, the thing is you get what you pay for and expectations must sometimes be adjusted,if you want "hillability" read the tests by "tailhappy" and citizen cycle" these are real time candid reviews for the most part.
'

Riding a cadence sensor rear hub is "fall off a log" easy; especially, with a throttle. It was a very good choice for the wife and I getting back into (e)biking after a +30 year break. A rear hub to me is similar to those moving sidewalks in airports you have the option to walk or stand (doesn't matter how much power you add because you will always move forward). I have the option to set my Radrover rear hub motor cut off to around 25 mph and "ghost pedal". Really can't "ghost pedaling" to +25 mph with a mid-drive tq sensor.

I upgrade to a mid-drive full suspension ebike because of more tq and hill climbing ability (live/ride 5000-7200 feet and NM Sandia foot hills). I have to pedal a lot harder with mid-drive tq sensors and constantly shift into the right gear for power/speed and lessen stress on the chain. No more stopping at a red light in top gear with a mid-drive and using the throttle only before pedaling half-way across. A lot more thinking and needing to anticipate the gear changes with a mid-drive and it took me some time to get use to it naturally. I really have to pay attention to the terrain on my mid-drive when riding with the wife is on her rear hub to shift gears and adjust my pedal force as needed to keep up with her on hills.

 

[icrude]

Would you guys say that this is false advertising at all? In the description it says it comes with a 750watt motor. But I looked up this motor and it only comes in a 500 watt 750 peak version.

2025 Cyberbike™ Raptor. Mid drive electric mountain bike

The all-new 2025 Cyberbike™ Raptor is our flagship high-performance electric mountain bike, pushing the boundaries of what's possible on an eBike. Free Shipping Sale Ending soon! Built on the new Cyberbike Summit Chassis, it features 8 unique and beautiful, clear-coated paint and graphics...

cyberbike.com

 

[indianajo]

Torque multiplied by gear ratio and divided by wheel radius equals force on the ground from the tire.
Hill climbing ability compares the power of the motor to the number of foot pounds per hour the total weight and total distance lifted required.
Quoted torques are not at any particular RPM, usually the rpm where torque is the maximum. Start torque is usually lower than the quoted torque. Quoted power is not at any particular RPM and may not allow the motor to even start on the hill. Numbers in advertisements are for selling product, not allowing one to determine suitability for your purpose. Plus advertised numbers are often a big lie.
Testing the bike with your desired load over the intended terrain is the only way to determine suitability of the product. In most cases the vendor will not allow that test.

 

[Tom@WashDC]

Would you guys say that this is false advertising at all? In the description it says it comes with a 750watt motor. But I looked up this motor and it only comes in a 500 watt 750 peak version.

2025 Cyberbike™ Raptor. Mid drive electric mountain bike

The all-new 2025 Cyberbike™ Raptor is our flagship high-performance electric mountain bike, pushing the boundaries of what's possible on an eBike. Free Shipping Sale Ending soon! Built on the new Cyberbike Summit Chassis, it features 8 unique and beautiful, clear-coated paint and graphics...

cyberbike.com

Considering motors don't actually have a "watt rating" the answer is "no". Watt ratings are BS, and each manufacurer could use differnet measurement standards if they want to. If you are buying a motor, controller, or battery(BMS), you should understand the nominal and peak operating parameters.

Take a read here: "there is no consistent way to provide a numeric "watts rating" for a motor system, there is NO SUCH THING as a "rated watt" for ebike motor power "

 

[harryS]

That was a fun race to watch, Two bikes in throttle mode. All motor. No, it wasn't fun to watch, but it was interesting, And who cares about nm ratings. It's the first to the top of the hill.

You have a mid drive, and if you had started in a higher gear and shifted thru the race you might have done better,

Also, throttles on mid drives don't all work the same. One of mine will give the motor full power with throttle, The other only rations out power based on the assist level chosen, and even then it only allows part of the power. I don't know how your bike does it,

.

 

[Rexlion]

Considering motors don't actually have a "watt rating" the answer is "no". Watt ratings are BS, and each manufacurer could use differnet measurement standards if they want to. If you are buying a motor, controller, or battery(BMS), you should understand the nominal and peak operating parameters.

Take a read here: "there is no consistent way to provide a numeric "watts rating" for a motor system, there is NO SUCH THING as a "rated watt" for ebike motor power "

Well in that case, I have an ebike with a 15,000 watt hub motor that I'd like to sell, for only $6,000. Just kidding. But what can they do to me, eh?