Motor Specs on Rad City 750 watt ? Anyone know them ?

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Hi - does anyone have or know the torque rating for the 750 watt direct drive motor on the Rad City (2018 or 2019 models) ?

Researching an issue for a customer, who is having hill climbing issues, and has another ebike with a 500 watt motor that climbs a lot better. He bought the Rad for his wife, and she is complaining about going up the same hills, she had no issue with on their other ebike. Not sure if its a motor defect, or a lower torque rating. Its not a 'weather issue' as they just rode them in a much warmer climate, and recently came back from their trip.
 
Mike, I was pretty disappointed with the stock City, starting with the amount of acceleration available. It took a few miles, but what I figured out was that a lot of the issue was about the "soft start" power application in the standard controller. It requires you to be patient on initial power application, and anticipate when you are actually going to need additional power when moving. If you wait for your momentum to slow while going up a rise, then apply power, it's like there's nobody home! There's a seemingly large lag while waiting for the additional power require to come on line.

With the "soft start" issue and a few others, I totally re-powered my 2 week old City with a 1500w DD "kit" replacing all electrical and electronics, using only the battery over again. I still feel that's a worthwhile investment, as even with the additional cost of the kit (300. or so), if you compare the features now available (including a very cutomizable LCD3 display) to those of similar bikes on the market it's not hard to see the value at all. I really like this bike now....

Knowing what I know now, I would likely have gone with a large wattage (750+) gear drive hub to take advantage of the extra torque available at low speeds. The high speed capability of the DD hub is something I have no use for. The customizable features built into the LCD3 display and compatible controller would remain very high on my list.
 
Did the other ebike use a mid-drive motor or was it hub-drive like the Rad City?
The other 500 watt motor is rear hub, internally geared. (not direct drive like the Rad). The torque rating on the other motor is 65 nm. If Rad would publish their torque rating or simply provide it to the customer, then we'd have an idea if it was just a weaker motor, or if there is some other issue.

My own experience with direct drives, even if they are higher watt ratings like this 750, is similar to what AHicks describes in his post above. They are typically slow to accelerate, and when you get on a hill, if you dont have a lot of momentum (speed) going into the hill, it will bog down, and not provide anywhere near the assistance you would feel when the road is flat. Some older folks just don't ride that fast, and so the slower the pace they have, will put them in more strain when going up hills. Another way to get around that lack of acceleration with direct drives, is to allow a larger current inrush, but that would mean you need a larger controller (high amp rating), but then you'd suck the battery dry in a heartbeat. (the battery BMS would have to be designed to allow that higher current inrush too, so its not a simple component change to accomplish this.) Hence why more ebikes OEM's, use IGH motors if they are providing a hub motor, than are using direct drive.

Usually if vendor is selling direct drive motors in kits, they are often sold with power ratings of 1000, 1500 watts, or even higher, but then you need a larger battery to get a decent range. They are also very inexpensive, so they are quite popular for DIY'rs. And since they are rather inexpensive it helps Rad keep their end price down, but still convey a seemingly higher wattage rating without disclosing the torque rating. For example, Prodecotech sells a 1200 watt direct drive motor, mounted in a 26" rim, with a controller, wiring harness and throttle (no pedal assist/no display) for $300. The direct drives can be very durable, but this sort of trade off, is what folks like this couple are probably experiencing. They said they wished they had a chance to test ride the Rad before buying.

It would be helpful to know the specs though, even if the torque rating is only applicable to a certain speed. I've seen 1500 watt direct drive motors, have torque ratings as low as 35 nm. I've seen 750 watt direct drive motors at only 25 nm. So I suspect the Rad is somewhere between 25 nm and 35 nm, which is a torque level you can get out of a 250 watt geared hub motor.

In otherwords, torque rating tells you a lot more about the amount of actual power delivered, and high climbing ability, than does watt rating. (most forum members know this now, as mid drives rated at 250 watts, appropriately geared, can easily deliver up to 65nm or even higher).

Maybe someone out there has done a bench test on this Rad 750 w motor ? I know there are people who can do this, and provide some data.
 
Mike, 2 things to consider going with a 1000-1500w DD. The first is the larger outside diameter of the case. It will provide more low end torque. Second, the larger wattage motors, when powered by identical amounts of power as compared to a smaller one (like a 750 for instance), will provide more torque at similar speeds, especially noticable from a standing start.

I agree regarding the need for a larger controller, but at the same time I believe I'm not using a lot more of my batteries power to do the same task as the smaller motor. It's not until I exceed what's available with the 750 that the bigger hub will be using more power, and yes, in some situations, WAY more power.

Put a different way, if I limit the amount of power to my 1500w hub to that available in the stock 750w set up, there is a very noticeable increase in the amount of "grunt" available with the larger motor. My opinion/experience, FWIW. -Al
 
I'm around 155lbs with cycling clothes and my Bafang 750w geared hub rear motor climbs everything I throw at it with ease. I just took the 11% Back Bay hill casually pedaling. That's a hill I've ridden a lot as a road cyclist and you absolutely have to get out of the saddle and pound away on your lowest gear. It's one of the few times I curse that I don't have a triple on my road bike!

I haven't found a road that it cannot easily ascend here in Orange County. Next up is the infamous Canon road in Anaheim. That's the first hill on a road bike in my life that I dismounted and walked up. As I became stronger I didn't need to do that but it's a beast. I'll soon know if this 750w can handle it.
 
Hi - does anyone have or know the torque rating for the 750 watt direct drive motor on the Rad City (2018 or 2019 models) ?

Researching an issue for a customer, who is having hill climbing issues, and has another ebike with a 500 watt motor that climbs a lot better. He bought the Rad for his wife, and she is complaining about going up the same hills, she had no issue with on their other ebike. Not sure if its a motor defect, or a lower torque rating. Its not a 'weather issue' as they just rode them in a much warmer climate, and recently came back from their trip.

The Rad 2018 - 2019 model torque specs. (this spec is listed on their website for each model under "specs" https://www.radpowerbikes.com):
Rad City, Rad City Step Thru, Rad Wagon - 750 watt direct drive hub motor = 40nm
Rad Rover, Rad Mini & 2019 Step Thru - 750 watt internally geared hub motor = 80nm

I researched the torque specs and test rode the bikes in spring 2018.
The models with internally geared hub motors were better at hill climbing which was no surprise since they're rated at twice the torque.
 
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The other 500 watt motor is rear hub, internally geared. (not direct drive like the Rad). The torque rating on the other motor is 65 nm. If Rad would publish their torque rating or simply provide it to the customer, then we'd have an idea if it was just a weaker motor, or if there is some other issue.

My own experience with direct drives, even if they are higher watt ratings like this 750, is similar to what AHicks describes in his post above. They are typically slow to accelerate, and when you get on a hill, if you dont have a lot of momentum (speed) going into the hill, it will bog down, and not provide anywhere near the assistance you would feel when the road is flat. Some older folks just don't ride that fast, and so the slower the pace they have, will put them in more strain when going up hills. Another way to get around that lack of acceleration with direct drives, is to allow a larger current inrush, but that would mean you need a larger controller (high amp rating), but then you'd suck the battery dry in a heartbeat. (the battery BMS would have to be designed to allow that higher current inrush too, so its not a simple component change to accomplish this.) Hence why more ebikes OEM's, use IGH motors if they are providing a hub motor, than are using direct drive.

Usually if vendor is selling direct drive motors in kits, they are often sold with power ratings of 1000, 1500 watts, or even higher, but then you need a larger battery to get a decent range. They are also very inexpensive, so they are quite popular for DIY'rs. And since they are rather inexpensive it helps Rad keep their end price down, but still convey a seemingly higher wattage rating without disclosing the torque rating. For example, Prodecotech sells a 1200 watt direct drive motor, mounted in a 26" rim, with a controller, wiring harness and throttle (no pedal assist/no display) for $300. The direct drives can be very durable, but this sort of trade off, is what folks like this couple are probably experiencing. They said they wished they had a chance to test ride the Rad before buying.

It would be helpful to know the specs though, even if the torque rating is only applicable to a certain speed. I've seen 1500 watt direct drive motors, have torque ratings as low as 35 nm. I've seen 750 watt direct drive motors at only 25 nm. So I suspect the Rad is somewhere between 25 nm and 35 nm, which is a torque level you can get out of a 250 watt geared hub motor.

In otherwords, torque rating tells you a lot more about the amount of actual power delivered, and high climbing ability, than does watt rating. (most forum members know this now, as mid drives rated at 250 watts, appropriately geared, can easily deliver up to 65nm or even higher).

Maybe someone out there has done a bench test on this Rad 750 w motor ? I know there are people who can do this, and provide some data.
Wow amazing,i never knew this things about dd torque being so much lower... great post !!
Still a learning curve witn almost 1 1/2 yeats of only ebike riding and 6-7k miles...
 
The other 500 watt motor is rear hub, internally geared. (not direct drive like the Rad). The torque rating on the other motor is 65 nm. If Rad would publish their torque rating or simply provide it to the customer, then we'd have an idea if it was just a weaker motor, or if there is some other issue.

Did you check their website? States 40nm for the Rad City 750 watt direct drive hub motor.
https://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/radcity-electric-commuter-bike

Rad has always published the motor torque specs; Look under Modes, Specs, Electronics, Hub Motor.
 
Sorry. Missed it somehow. Also here at the EBR review on it.

40 NM explains a lot. Surprisingly low for a 750 watt motor.

For example, a Blix Aveny only has a 350 watt motor, but the torque rating is 60 nm. Of course, its internally geared.

I wonder how many people buying Rads get 'seduced' by the 750 watt rating, only to learn once they get it, the power is really weak ?

Moral of the story: look at the torque rating if you want to know how powerful a motor will be, and know if you can climb hills with it. By itself, watt rating is virtually meaningless.
 
"Moral of the story: look at the torque rating if you want to know how powerful a motor will be, and know if you can climb hills with it. By itself, watt rating is virtually meaningless."

I would also add that user reviews would be very helpful. Watching a 200lb guy ride any particular motor up a 15 degree hill would provide you with almost everything you need to know. Reading about it is only somewhat less helpful, but still gives you an idea.

Before I purchased the bike that I purchased I watched probably 10-15 YouTube user reviews. I watched the actual bike I purchased go up massive long hills at 18mph. I knew the height and weight of the rider and sure enough, my experiences have been even better (mostly because I'm lighter).
 
I always figured torque ratings were marketing lies, as I thought everything was labelled 80 nm. I stand corrected. There is truth in advertising then.

But it has been a truism that direct drive motors aren't well suited for hills, unless one has a big motor.
 
"But it has been a truism that direct drive motors aren't well suited for hills, unless one has a big motor."

It all depends on how the DD motor is wound. They can be wound for torque which will have a lower speed quotient, high speed and lower torque or anywhere in between. That is why the Grin calculator is a handy tool of reference.

My two DD motors run @ 52v will climb 10 mile hills at one shot @ 350w output with me pedaling. Seriously steep hills @ 500-1000w can also be easily done except it will generate more heat which if not monitored can cause issues. But that is true with any electric motor.
 
Sorry. Missed it somehow. Also here at the EBR review on it.

40 NM explains a lot. Surprisingly low for a 750 watt motor.

For example, a Blix Aveny only has a 350 watt motor, but the torque rating is 60 nm. Of course, its internally geared.

I wonder how many people buying Rads get 'seduced' by the 750 watt rating, only to learn once they get it, the power is really weak ?

Moral of the story: look at the torque rating if you want to know how powerful a motor will be, and know if you can climb hills with it. By itself, watt rating is virtually meaningless.


This is a gross over simplification.

I would hope that by now everyone understands the fact that gear dive hubs have an unarguable advantage at low speeds and hills, but the DD have their advantages as well. Like no gears to create noise or maintenance issues, much better efficiency in situations where a lot of torque on tap is of little value (flat lands), and higher available speeds. And there's this little thing called regen a lot of people talk about, that's not available anywhere but with DD.

Name your poison (preferences). They are both (gear and direct drive) very well suited when carefully chosen. THOSE differences are the facts that need to be more widely considered/known/discussed.
 
This is a gross over simplification.

I would hope that by now everyone understands the fact that gear dive hubs have an unarguable advantage at low speeds and hills, but the DD have their advantages as well. Like no gears to create noise or maintenance issues, much better efficiency in situations where a lot of torque on tap is of little value (flat lands), and higher available speeds. And there's this little thing called regen a lot of people talk about, that's not available anywhere but with DD.

Name your poison (preferences). They are both (gear and direct drive) very well suited when carefully chosen. THOSE differences are the facts that need to be more widely considered/known/discussed.

Good post, I would expect that most of the disparaging remarks in reference to DD motors are from people that have never owned/used one. I have a BionX powered bike and love it.
 
"Like no gears to create noise or maintenance issues"

Except the potential massive effects on the drivetrain, correct?

I think the reference was towards the gears inside the motor. Hub motors whether geared or DD have no direct effect on the bikes drivetrain like mid drives do.
 
I think the reference was towards the gears inside the motor. Hub motors whether geared or DD have no direct effect on the bikes drivetrain like mid drives do.

You're right. He was discussing the merits of geared-drive vs direct-drive within the hub motor itself. My fault.
 
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