Motor cuts off randomly - Ripcurrent S

[330rcs]

I took my Ripcurrent S to the bike shop to get the fork upgraded and a tune up. Well when I got it back and on the ride home and since then while I'm riding it seems like the motor randomly quits giving throttle and pedal assist. No matter what I try it doesn't seem to do anything maybe 10-30 seconds later kick back on. It's random and it's dangerous turning on to a street or a car coming and you lose all power. Earlier I lost all power half way up a steep hill and had to get off and walk it up.

I don't know if this is a coincidence but when I mess with the wires in the front it seems to kick back on quicker so I thought maybe when they took off the headset etc they had to disconnect the wires so I disconnected and reconnected the wires in the front that connects to the throttle and lcd display but when I went out today I still had the same issue. When I came back I tried it again and tried a couple different wires but haven't gone back out yet.

The lcd display seems to be working fine when the motor cuts out and I have been riding on full battery as well and the battery meter seems normal. It seems like it's the motor that quits responding. If it was battery related I would assume the lcd display would shut off or start going crazy. I used to have a battery issue when the ports melted and the battery meter would go all crazy up and down as I lose power but this time it stays at its present level. I looked at my battery connectors and they seem fine.

What can I troubleshoot to figure this out? I contacted juiced but not sure when I will get a reply.

This bike shop doesn't work on anything electrical so I can't take it to them to figure it out. I also do like this shop and they have worked on this bike quite a bit and have figured out some challenges other bike mechanics couldn't so I don't want to cause any issue with them and theres no real proof of anything just my word. I just figured maybe when they put the bike back together a wire didn't get properly connected. I do know a local ebike guy that works on these and the electrical so I might have to drop it off to him. Just thought I'd check here if there's any suggestion on what I can try myself.

Thanks

 

[Asher]

Cant really help, just that I had a fork replaced on a CCS (went rigid) with no issue. The shop had experience with electrics but I don't think there was any electric work done.

Maybe somehow the brake cutoff wires went a little haywire? That's the only electric bit touching the fork.

 

[teskow]

The pins in the connectors are very small and fragile so if they at the bike shop didn't put them back together very carefully they may have bent or damaged them causing the problem.
Pull the connectors apart that they may have had to take apart to work on the bike and look at the pins in them to see if they look undamaged and straight.

 

[330rcs]

The pins in the connectors are very small and fragile so if they at the bike shop didn't put them back together very carefully they may have bent or damaged them causing the problem.
Pull the connectors apart that they may have had to take apart to work on the bike and look at the pins in them to see if they look undamaged and straight.

Yeah I checked the pins when I disconnected and reconnected and they all seemed fine, not bent or anything.

 

[330rcs]

I guess I'll just have to take it to my ebike guy to check out the electrical. No reply from juiced so far.

 

[GypsyTreker]

Curious, did you resolve the issue? I'm having the same issue on my 26 fattie. I keep thinking PAS sensor on crank because it happens when I stop peddling. It's more annoying than anything and has been occuring for at least the last 500mi.

 

[330rcs]

Curious, did you resolve the issue? I'm having the same issue on my 26 fattie. I keep thinking PAS sensor on crank because it happens when I stop peddling. It's more annoying than anything and has been occuring for at least the last 500mi.

Yes I did. I had to take it to my ebike guy and he figured it out. It was my motor cut off cable that connects to my front brake on the left side. When we disconnected it everything has been working fine since then.

 

[GypsyTreker]

Yes I did. I had to take it to my ebike guy and he figured it out. It was my motor cut off cable that connects to my front brake on the left side. When we disconnected it everything has been working fine since then.

Glad you got it sorted out. My brake cut offs are disconnected at the brake levers. I may need to unplug the sensors at the controller. Like yours it acts like a loose connection not like a battery or controller.

 

[teskow]

This has been said many times before but it warrants being said again. On your RipCurrent strap the battery in very tightly to prevent any intermittent power supply from bumpy surfaces and preventing future trouble from possible arcing at the battery to bike plug.
"A stitch in time saves nine"

 

[330rcs]

This has been said many times before but it warrants being said again. On your RipCurrent strap the battery in very tightly to prevent any intermittent power supply from bumpy surfaces and preventing future trouble from possible arcing at the battery to bike plug.
"A stitch in time saves nine"

I learned this the hard way when my battery port melted on both sides the bike and the battery. I keep my battery strapped with velcro now. Although this issue was not anything to do with the battery.

 

[GypsyTreker]

Hopefully its my battery. I have a spare that I need to charge up. Actually Im using the spare because I misplaced the key to my main( I found it) I did order a controller from Ecotric to have on-hand. My wife and I have been section riding the Mickleson everytime we go out there. Plan on doing Deadwood to Hill City in June. The reason I its my battery, after cleaning and checking the connections overall, is that the cutting out happens more often now. My wife said I never mentioned it before, just so happens I realize I was using my main battery before.

 

[330rcs]

Hopefully its my battery. I have a spare that I need to charge up. Actually Im using the spare because I misplaced the key to my main( I found it) I did order a controller from Ecotric to have on-hand. My wife and I have been section riding the Mickleson everytime we go out there. Plan on doing Deadwood to Hill City in June. The reason I its my battery, after cleaning and checking the connections overall, is that the cutting out happens more often now. My wife said I never mentioned it before, just so happens I realize I was using my main battery before.

When it's cutting out does anything happen to your display? When I was having battery issues with it cutting on and off (I have a long thread here) I noticed that my battery meter would go all wonky and the battery meter bars start randomly going up and down, voltage starts jumping around all over the place. Pay attention to your display next time the power is cutting out and if you notice this behavior it's definitely the battery.

I guess everybody's different when it was me having battery issues (ports melted) I wouldn't want it to be my battery they cost $1300. If it's anything else, mechanical, electrical or even the entire motor and controller it would be less than the cost to replace one of these batteries.

 

[GypsyTreker]

Actually nothing cuts out but power. No error codes , nada, screen doesnt even flicker. And like I mentioned its no more than 10 to 20 seconds. Also its not an ocellating thing, it's just off...then on. One of the reasons I went with a sub $1000 eBike were for moments like this. I can upgrade to a 36v. 20ah UPP battery for around $300. I'm pushing 70 so the frame will outlast me. I looked at a Mongoose Doleimite at WM a few years ago. I think my fattie aluminum frame is much beefier. Anyway, this week I will charge up the main battery and hopefully confirm the one in it now is bad. I have had this for almost a year and a half so OEM battery degradation is not abnormal.

 

[EdS59]

I took my Ripcurrent S to the bike shop to get the fork upgraded and a tune up. Well when I got it back and on the ride home and since then while I'm riding it seems like the motor randomly quits giving throttle and pedal assist. No matter what I try it doesn't seem to do anything maybe 10-30 seconds later kick back on. It's random and it's dangerous turning on to a street or a car coming and you lose all power. Earlier I lost all power half way up a steep hill and had to get off and walk it up.

I don't know if this is a coincidence but when I mess with the wires in the front it seems to kick back on quicker so I thought maybe when they took off the headset etc they had to disconnect the wires so I disconnected and reconnected the wires in the front that connects to the throttle and lcd display but when I went out today I still had the same issue. When I came back I tried it again and tried a couple different wires but haven't gone back out yet.

The lcd display seems to be working fine when the motor cuts out and I have been riding on full battery as well and the battery meter seems normal. It seems like it's the motor that quits responding. If it was battery related I would assume the lcd display would shut off or start going crazy. I used to have a battery issue when the ports melted and the battery meter would go all crazy up and down as I lose power but this time it stays at its present level. I looked at my battery connectors and they seem fine.

What can I troubleshoot to figure this out? I contacted juiced but not sure when I will get a reply.

This bike shop doesn't work on anything electrical so I can't take it to them to figure it out. I also do like this shop and they have worked on this bike quite a bit and have figured out some challenges other bike mechanics couldn't so I don't want to cause any issue with them and theres no real proof of anything just my word. I just figured maybe when they put the bike back together a wire didn't get properly connected. I do know a local ebike guy that works on these and the electrical so I might have to drop it off to him. Just thought I'd check here if there's any suggestion on what I can try myself.

Thanks

Did you get this resolved? I had a very similar situation and the problem was resolved just by moving the left brake lever away from the throttle. Apparently there are magnets in each and if they are too close (which may have happened because you had some work done on your bike) they will then interfere with one another. If you reconnect your sensor and separate the brake lever and throttle by 1/8" or 1/4" , I think you will have your problem solved. Sounds too simple but works.

 

[330rcs]

Did you get this resolved? I had a very similar situation and the problem was resolved just by moving the left brake lever away from the throttle. Apparently there are magnets in each and if they are too close (which may have happened because you had some work done on your bike) they will then interfere with one another. If you reconnect your sensor and separate the brake lever and throttle by 1/8" or 1/4" , I think you will have your problem solved. Sounds too simple but works.

No ever since I disconnected the motor cut off wire it's been fine and everything still working the same and haven't noticed any difference in braking so I have just left it. Although I will try what you said when I have some time to mess with it. I did have them change my handlebar grips so it makes sense if something got moved.

Thanks appreciate it!!!

 

[ebott]

I have a similar problem on my CCX. At times when applying the left brake, power is lost. I can get it back by applying and releasing the brake in two quick motions. However, this takes a little time to preform and could get me into trouble. I am also going to disconnect the brake cut-off cables that are supposed to remove power when the brake is applied. Why is such a feature necessary? When would you apply the brakes while still peddling. Stop peddling and the assist/power is eliminated. Same as the power being killed with the brake cut-off. Am I missing something?

 

[330rcs]

I have a similar problem on my CCX. At times when applying the left brake, power is lost. I can get it back by applying and releasing the brake in two quick motions. However, this takes a little time to preform and could get me into trouble. I am also going to disconnect the brake cut-off cables that are supposed to remove power when the brake is applied. Why is such a feature necessary? When would you apply the brakes while still peddling. Stop peddling and the assist/power is eliminated. Same as the power being killed with the brake cut-off. Am I missing something?

Well Juiced Bikes themselves basically told me the same thing, that it's not really needed. When my front brake needed to be replaced my local bike shop wouldn't install it without the cut off wire for whatever reason. So I contacted juiced to buy it and they told me wasn't needed.

With my cable disconnected I can't tell any difference.

 

[David Paisley]

Anyone having intermittent or random cut-offs of power either from pedaling or the throttle can try this: Disconnect the electrical inhibitor cable from the two brake lever units. They disconnect at the silver metal connection screw just below the handles. If the throttle, cadence/torque pedaling and the walk mode work, then the inhibitor may be slightly out of adjustment. the good news is the adjustment is very easy and likely the left side inhibitor is the problem. It requires a 2 hex wrench and a 7mm crescent wrench. I was able to very easily fix the problem with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the inhibitor screw adjuster. BTY, I have the Ripcurrent s Step through, 2021. Watch these two videos:

 

[popup69]

Ive got the rip. s and same problem random power cut off ell really power stays on just don't go any ideas.