Manitou Mastodon Comp Fork & Suggestions

traderfjp

Member
Region
USA
Hi,

I have two ebikes from Biktrix. They are cruisers but I want to be able to take them on choppy logging trails. Nothing too extreme and we will be taking it slow. The stock forks are low end spring loaded and are ok for gravel or pavement but have limited travel and can be jarring. I also want to get rid of the quick release on the front and go to a through axle. Anyway, I'm looking for a fork that is smooth and supple on all surfaces. I was looking at a Manitou Mastodon Comp. I've never seen one or ridden one. This fork gets really great reviews and seems to be a favorite in the under 1k price range. My concern is that it may be too stiff and for more extreme riding. Not sure. I was wondering if anyone has any time on this fork or the pro version? Any other fork suggestions?
 
you cant go to through axle usually without getting a different hub. some of the better hubs you can convert but most you cant.
 
you cant go to through axle usually without getting a different hub. some of the better hubs you can convert but most you cant.
That is true. I will have to fork (no pun intended) over another 280.00 for a new wheel but that is ok. I would rather have a full axle than a 5mm qr. I read of one guy who drilled out his spacer on his current hub and was able to put in an axle without buying a new wheel. I have the bikes in a shop so I doubt they would do anything like that but I will ask anyway. The shop is also putting in a NX 12 speed with AXS so that will give me more torque and hill climbing ability and fast shifting. There app tells what gear you are in which will help my wife who is starting out. She has always ridden bikes but not with a motor. They are also changing out the chainring form a 44t to a 38t. Going from an Altus 11-34 to a SRAM NX 11-50. The NX works on my setup so I don't have to get a new wheel. If I tear up the cassette they are about 110.00 vs 250.00 for the GX so in the long run this makes more sense.
 
I can only speak for the Rock Shox Bluto that has been on my Haibike Full FatSix. 120mm travel which is the same as the Manitou. Comparable price as the Manitou. For the few years before getting the H-Bike, I was riding my Specialized Fatboy with the carbon fork (later moving to the aluminum version so I could run a front rack, mounted on the fork).

A high end front suspension fork is such a pleasure to ride with that I think you are going to be happy with that Manitou or other good fork you decide to go with.

Pretty sure Fox has an equivilant fat tired front fork, too....
 
I can only speak for the Rock Shox Bluto that has been on my Haibike Full FatSix. 120mm travel which is the same as the Manitou. Comparable price as the Manitou. For the few years before getting the H-Bike, I was riding my Specialized Fatboy with the carbon fork (later moving to the aluminum version so I could run a front rack, mounted on the fork).

A high end front suspension fork is such a pleasure to ride with that I think you are going to be happy with that Manitou or other good fork you decide to go with.

Pretty sure Fox has an equivilant fat tired front fork, too....
I ended up with the Manitou Mastordon Comp. The pro was a little expensive and I have to buy two of everything. I'll report back when I get my rides back. Thanks

I can only speak for the Rock Shox Bluto that has been on my Haibike Full FatSix. 120mm travel which is the same as the Manitou. Comparable price as the Manitou. For the few years before getting the H-Bike, I was riding my Specialized Fatboy with the carbon fork (later moving to the aluminum version so I could run a front rack, mounted on the fork).

A high end front suspension fork is such a pleasure to ride with that I think you are going to be happy with that Manitou or other good fork you decide to go with.

Pretty sure Fox has an equivilant fat tired front fork, too....
 
you cant go to through axle usually without getting a different hub. some of the better hubs you can convert but most you cant.
Yeah? Funny, I did it. Twice. I replaced an insta-steal front axle on the yuba with a 4 1/2" 10-32 stainless screw. Elastic stop nuts. 1/4 fender washers from mcmaster for tension on the fork. I previously did that to a Pacific Quantum MTB with quick release.
I shop off my bike, go to meetings, volunteer job. It sits unattended for several hours in a neighborhood with a lot of chained up bike frames with missing front wheels & seats.
If you weigh more than 200 lb, I can't guarentee that 10-32 stainless machine screw will work for you. Maybe 6 mm for bigger people. Don't jump picnic tables or curbs with it. Note 304 stainless machine screws from mcmaster.com are higher quality metal than the parts from HD or the local Ace hardware. Made in ******. I broke a shimano 5/16" rear axle on a 6 speed diamond back MTB, the axle made in *****. ***** ships a lot of **** people take for steel.
 
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Yeah? Funny, I did it. Twice. I replaced an insta-steal front axle on the yuba with a 4 1/2" 10-32 stainless screw. Elastic stop nuts. 1/4 fender washers from mcmaster for tension on the fork. I previously did that to a Pacific Quantum MTB with quick release.
I shop off my bike, go to meetings, volunteer job. It sits unattended for several hours in a neighborhood with a lot of chained up bike frames with missing front wheels & seats.
If you weigh more than 200 lb, I can't guarentee that 10-32 stainless machine screw will work for you. Maybe 6 mm for bigger people. Don't jump picnic tables or curbs with it. Note 304 stainless machine screws from mcmaster.com are higher quality metal than the parts from HD or the local Ace hardware. Made in ******. I broke a shimano 5/16" rear axle on a 6 speed diamond back MTB, the axle made in *****. ***** ships a lot of **** people take for steel.
I like that you are thinking out of the box. My bikeshop won't do that and they are so reasonable it makes no sense for me to touch the bike. The back tire is still QR which I will live with for one season and then make a decision to put on a new wheel. I really hate QR even though it is proven.
 
I read some great reviews on the Bluto. Thanks. Looking forward to a better front fork. The spring loaded forks I have now are ok for pavement but not trail riding.

I can only speak for the Rock Shox Bluto that has been on my Haibike Full FatSix. 120mm travel which is the same as the Manitou. Comparable price as the Manitou. For the few years before getting the H-Bike, I was riding my Specialized Fatboy with the carbon fork (later moving to the aluminum version so I could run a front rack, mounted on the fork).

A high end front suspension fork is such a pleasure to ride with that I think you are going to be happy with that Manitou or other good fork you decide to go with.

Pretty sure Fox has an equivilant fat tired front fork, too....
 
I have a Mastadon Comp EXT 140mm travel on an iGo fatbike; I upgraded from the stock RST. Its a fine choice and you dont have to worry about it being too firm; you adjust it to your weight with an air spring, set the sag and compression, and enjoy the ride. I use my fatbike as a full-on mountain bike on the same trails I take my full suspension Yamaha.
 

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Nice bike. I just had the Comp put on my bike. I'm picking it up this weekend. The bike shop ordered the Masterdon Comp - 120mm version. They suggested not expanding the fork to 140mm since it will raise the front end of the bike. How is a full 140mm of travel working for you. Did it raise the front of the bike for you?
 
Nice bike. I just had the Comp put on my bike. I'm picking it up this weekend. The bike shop ordered the Masterdon Comp - 120mm version. They suggested not expanding the fork to 140mm since it will raise the front end of the bike. How is a full 140mm of travel working for you. Did it raise the front of the bike for you?
The fork length matched the one that came off the bike so it didnt raise the front. Thats not necessarily a bad thing if its raised a little though, most modern mountain bikes have slack head tube angles to help with downhill stability. I've found its hard to use all the 140mm travel.
 
The fork length matched the one that came off the bike so it didnt raise the front. Thats not necessarily a bad thing if its raised a little though, most modern mountain bikes have slack head tube angles to help with downhill stability. I've found its hard to use all the 140mm travel.
I'll try the fork at 120mm to start. I had a spring loaded 80mm fork so I'll see if it changes the geometry of the bike. The bike shop said that the Comp was half the weight of what came off the bike so that is great. I weight 207 and the wife is 126lbs so I asked my shop to setup forks accordingly. How did you find the setup on the Comp? Was it fairly easy to set sag, etc?
Yeah? Funny, I did it. Twice. I replaced an insta-steal front axle on the yuba with a 4 1/2" 10-32 stainless screw. Elastic stop nuts. 1/4 fender washers from mcmaster for tension on the fork. I previously did that to a Pacific Quantum MTB with quick release.
I shop off my bike, go to meetings, volunteer job. It sits unattended for several hours in a neighborhood with a lot of chained up bike frames with missing front wheels & seats.
If you weigh more than 200 lb, I can't guarentee that 10-32 stainless machine screw will work for you. Maybe 6 mm for bigger people. Don't jump picnic tables or curbs with it. Note 304 stainless machine screws from mcmaster.com are higher quality metal than the parts from HD or the local Ace hardware. Made in ******. I broke a shimano 5/16" rear axle on a 6 speed diamond back MTB, the axle made in *****. ***** ships a lot of **** people take for steel.
Post a pic. Love to see the bike.
 
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