Looking for input/advice on first e-bike

[Bluebird]

Hi everyone. I am looking to get my first e-bike, I’ve tried two different ones (both ST’s) but prefer the look and feel of a more traditional MB frame and the look at bigger tires. Hoping that fatter tires also give a nicer ride, but I would still want some suspension too.

I’ve looked all over the map for price point and make/model and have come up with two contenders, but remain open to any other ideas too.

1) Himiway Cobra or Cruiser

2) Mokwheel Basalt

I like that the Mokwheel comes with a lot of options for the price, but it doesn’t have a dealer network. The Himiway is also well reviewed but seems to come with less (fenders extra etc and a twist throttle instead of a thumb throttle). I’ve also looked at Quietkat but where I am located the dealers are car dealerships and they seem to want to sell them the same way they do cars (high mark up and negotiate without knowing much about the product, just who I’ve encountered I am sure there are many dealers that have different feels to them)

For reference I am in the Pacific North West so I will be encountering some hills; mostly around town, trails and som double track.

Any thoughts and advice are appreciated.

Happy riding!

 

[Taylor57]

Hi everyone. I am looking to get my first e-bike, I’ve tried two different ones (both ST’s) but prefer the look and feel of a more traditional MB frame and the look at bigger tires. Hoping that fatter tires also give a nicer ride, but I would still want some suspension too.

I’ve looked all over the map for price point and make/model and have come up with two contenders, but remain open to any other ideas too.

1) Himiway Cobra or Cruiser

2) Mokwheel Basalt

I like that the Mokwheel comes with a lot of options for the price, but it doesn’t have a dealer network. The Himiway is also well reviewed but seems to come with less (fenders extra etc and a twist throttle instead of a thumb throttle). I’ve also looked at Quietkat but where I am located the dealers are car dealerships and they seem to want to sell them the same way they do cars (high mark up and negotiate without knowing much about the product, just who I’ve encountered I am sure there are many dealers that have different feels to them)

For reference I am in the Pacific North West so I will be encountering some hills; mostly around town, trails and som double track.

Any thoughts and advice are appreciated.

Happy riding!

The Mokwheel website describing the power inverter and other features gives me a headache. What is the deal? Do you get a power inverter with your purchase?

 

[Bluebird]

No, you can buy an inverter and/or the solar panel separately. When I said it comes with a lot for the price I was referring to the rear rack, mud guards, large battery and the ability to switch between Class 1/2/3 (according to the person I spoke with at Mokwheel).

 

[PatriciaK]

What kind of riding will you be mostly doing? Paved surfaces? MTB dirt trails? Commuting? Match the bike to your prevalent riding style/conditions.

Fatter tires don't necessarily give a nicer ride...

 

[AHicks]

Head's up!
Those 26" fat tire bike tend to be great big awkward bikes even with the taller riders. HIGHLY recommend you stand next to one in real life (not just a tape measure) before considering further.

 

[Bluebird]

Head's up!
Those 26" fat tire bike tend to be great big awkward bikes even with the taller riders. HIGHLY recommend you stand next to one in real life (not just a tape measure) before considering further.

Thanks, I plan to. I am 6’2” with a 34” inseam, fairly confident I can both fit and handle one….that said I plan on demo’ing one first to be sure. I don’t want to regret spending that much money.

 

[Rexlion]

I have a Ride1Up LMTD. Differences that stand out in comparison to the Mokwheel: mine weighs 20+ lb less and has 2.3" tires, no fenders or rack, and the battery is somewhat smaller. Otherwise fairly similar. I've read that 4" tires tend to feel like they want to steer themselves (not as responsive as narrower tires), so try to take a test ride before deciding. As for the Himiway, I considered the Cruiser but AFAIK it came with just a cadence sensor and I wanted a torque sensor; not sure if that is still what they come with. I don't think they offered the Cobra back then, but I see it weighs a whopping 88 lbs so I would have ruled it out on that basis (I load my ebike into the back of the SUV).

 

[Bluebird]

I have a Ride1Up LMTD. Differences that stand out in comparison to the Mokwheel: mine weighs 20+ lb less and has 2.3" tires, no fenders or rack, and the battery is somewhat smaller. Otherwise fairly similar. I've read that 4" tires tend to feel like they want to steer themselves (not as responsive as narrower tires), so try to take a test ride before deciding. As for the Himiway, I considered the Cruiser but AFAIK it came with just a cadence sensor and I wanted a torque sensor; not sure if that is still what they come with. I don't think they offered the Cobra back then, but I see it weighs a whopping 88 lbs so I would have ruled it out on that basis (I load my ebike into the back of the SUV).

Thanks, those are some good points I need to consider. I believe the Cobra has a Torque sensor; which I would prefer over the Cadence sensors. I do need to lay eyes and hands on these bikes to assess if I am comfortable with the weight and configuration. I can lift that weight into my pickup, but that could get old real quick lol.

 

[PatriciaK]

FWIW, you can "switch" between Class 1 and Class 2 riding by just not using, or disconnecting (plug and play on most bikes, I think) the throttle .

Not sure how you would switch between Class 1 and 3, since, if the motor CAN go 28mph, it's automatically Class 3, whether you ARE going that fast or not... I'd be careful about a Class 3, since they're not legal on MUPs and most trails - they're generally confined to streets.

I also live in the PNW and deal with hills. My Giant (now Momentum, a subsidiary) La Free Class 1 mid drive handles all the bills I ride very nicely, and can do pavement, packed gravel and dirt. The only thing I wish were different is I wish it had a throttle, like my Class 2 rear hub drive Espin Flow, back in the other coast.

My NEXT bike is going to be a mid-drive Class 2 - the best of both worlds !

 

[tomjasz]

After a decade of buying selling and supporting I’m all in for saving the dollars and buying from a busy local bike shop that lived eBikes. i’ve built more than i can account for but my next bike for the Mrs. is an Electra 5i. i can’t build a bike as nice or with as good support, lifetime mechanical tuneups, and passion as my local trek dealer. buy right and smile longer. Sadly most here want to pedal their choice as the best. We do you a disservice. Find a great shop and ride to decide.

 

[PatriciaK]

After a decade of buying selling and supporting I’m all in for saving the dollars and buying from a busy local bike shop that lived eBikes. i’ve built more than i can account for but my next bike for the Mrs. is an Electra 5i. i can’t build a bike as nice or with as good support, lifetime mechanical tuneups, and passion as my local trek dealer. buy right and smile longer. Sadly most here want to pedal their choice as the best. We do you a disservice. Find a great shop and ride to decide.

Just because people mention what they're pedaling, does not mean they're peddling, Tom...

 

[tomjasz]

Just because people mention what they're pedaling, does not mean they're peddling, Tom...

That surely has always been true of you, but IMO you're the rare and consistently helpful poster. But after ten years I'm decidedly on the side of either an LBS bike or a quality DIY. Those often peddled factory direct budget bikes are best suited to infrequent riders. Now surely someone will pop up and show me how wrong I am, but thousands of emails, phone calls, and messages beside on forums have made me a cynic. As in the past I predict a pile of sub $1500 bikes on fire or just unrepairable for most.

 

[PatriciaK]

That surely has always been true of you, but IMO you're the rare and consistently helpful poster. But after ten years I'm decidedly on the side of either an LBS bike or a quality DIY. Those often peddled factory direct budget bikes are best suited to infrequent riders. Now surely someone will pop up and show me how wrong I am, but thousands of emails, phone calls, and messages beside on forums have made me a cynic. As in the past I predict a pile of sub $1500 bikes on fire or just unrepairable for most.

The are always a few factory directs that aren't junk... I've had my Espin a couple of years now, and except for a loose spoke and a brake bleed (which they quickly reimbursed me for having REI take care of), it's been a great bike. I consider myself a regular rider, when I'm well, though not normally a long distance rider.

The trick is stumbling across a decent factory direct - that is a real crap shoot! I was lucky , though the experience of @AHicks and others here who have similar bikes helped me be comfortable taking the chance.

 

[PatriciaK]

Ok, back to Bluebird's purchase dilemma...

 

[Old-tool-guy]

We bought two Ride1Up cafe cruisers this spring, ride every weekend. Very happy with them, no problems. 3” tires which are considerably larger than most but not nearly fat tires. That model comes with fenders, lights, heavy duty rear rack. Suits our style perfectly. YMMV.

 

[teskow]

That surely has always been true of you, but IMO you're the rare and consistently helpful poster. But after ten years I'm decidedly on the side of either an LBS bike or a quality DIY. Those often peddled factory direct budget bikes are best suited to infrequent riders. Now surely someone will pop up and show me how wrong I am, but thousands of emails, phone calls, and messages beside on forums have made me a cynic. As in the past I predict a pile of sub $1500 bikes on fire or just unrepairable for most.

I wouldn't expect a $1,500 bike to compare to a $5,000. bike but to say a $1,500. bike is unrepairable is simply not true.

 

[gromike]

I wouldn't expect a $1,500 bike to compare to a $5,000. bike but to say a $1,500. bike is unrepairable is simply not true.

I was just talking to a friend last night who has worked on building an repairing electric vehicles for years. I said we should go into business and offer repairs for all those inexpensive DTC ebikes. Seems to me there will be a lot of demand for it. He wouldn't bite, saying it's not worth his time to work on something that has no manufacturers' support, built from cheap parts, and a proprietary battery.

 

[Bluebird]

Thanks for the input everyone, apparently if you don’t sign in for a couple of days the thread really grows lol.

Lots to consider. Many of the bikes I’ve looked at have the ability to switch between classes electronically if you dig into the menu’s, not all. I think @PatriciaK mentioned to be wary of that an local regulations. I am going to take a good look at that.

To clarify where I live, I am in Victoria BC. Many bike lanes, rail trails and even more backcountry/forestry road opportunities. I definitely have more homework to do.

 

[tomjasz]

to say a $1,500. bike is unrepairable is simply not true.

Oh? So show me an LBS willing to take on the job? For $1500 we get junk. And customers clueless as to the issues and real costs. But hey, WTF do I know…

 

[tomjasz]

proprietary battery

Not really the case, just cheap builds with to many pitfalls to be worth repairing.