Looking For a Nomadic Daily Driver

skud

New Member
Region
USA
Hello, everyone! Currently, I have an Aventon Aventure. It's a cheaper generalist bike ($2k) that taught me how I'm gonna use a bike and what I value in it. Now I think I'm ready for a bike that suits me much better than the Aventure. I'm going to get right into this, because it will probably end up being quite long. I am in the US. THANK YOU very much for helping out 😁

First of all, what type of rider am I? I live in my van most of the year and use my bike as my daily driver for errands as well as exploration/recreation. I am a big guy at 6'2" (1.88m) and 330lbs (149kg) (365lbs, 166kg possible cargo included) looking for a tougher commuter style ebike that can handle the rougher pavement I encounter in the boonies and smaller towns as well as the occasional dirt/gravel road or path. Would something with more of a mountain bike or touring design be better for me? What about weight limits? I have a hard time believing these diamond frames with thick downtubes can't handle more than 300lbs but that is the highest capacity I have been seeing in my research. I am looking for whatever bike best suits my needs, so my budget is flexible.

I don't like a fully upright position, but I don't want anywhere near the near horizontal positions I see on some bikes. From test riding some ebikes, I'd say my preference is closer to the vertical upright than the horizontal sporty positions. A bit Sportier than the Specialized Turbo Como, not nearly as sporty as the Turbo Vado SL. I'd prefer a belt drive, but I know that limits my choices severely and I don't mind chain maintenance all that much, so not super necessary. Weight of the bike is not very important to me. I know it impacts efficiency, but I'm also very heavy so it's not nearly as impactful.

One very important thing I am looking for is serviceability. I live in my van and travel most of the year, so I need something that can get worked on at most places. I park my van and use my bike as my daily driver so this is extremely important. The Aventure has had some motor/throttle issues and it took forever to get it serviced. A lot of it was part shortages, but it also took forever for Aventon to coordinate with the store on diagnosis and then more time to ship the parts. I am even having this issue with the cheap Zoom fork. I didn't think I'd have much issue with the regular bike parts but alas, here I am. What advice can you give for a customer looking for a serviceable bike. I understand reliability is a big part of this. If it doesn't break, it doesn't need to be serviced!
What motor systems should I be looking for if I am keeping serviceability in mind? I've heard the Specialized Brose and Bosch motor systems are the most popular by far in the US. If I got an ebike with one of those, would I be able to get it serviced most places around the country (USA)? What about the other electrical components?
It seems like my Aventure has a few odd parts to it that makes it harder to service. As far as regular non-electric bike side of things, what should I be looking for? I'm not super knowledgeable so I don't know exactly what parts/brands are common or not.

As far as the motor goes, I have no idea how much torque and wattage I'm needing. It doesn't need to be as much or more as the Aventon. For reference, The Aventure has a 750w rear hub Bafang that can go up to 1120w with 80nm torque if I remember correctly. I have had no issue with speed or climbing with it except for the steepest of hills, which is to be expected at my size. I know mid-drives are more efficient and thus need less power, so it's hard for me to compare. Also, the Aventure doesn't feel like a bike a lot of the times. The assist levels are basically speed levels and however much you add to it is up to you. I believe this is largely due to it having no torque sensor (cadence sensor instead), which the more premium bikes almost ubiquitously have by the looks of it. That'll encourage more input which will help get me in better shape, too.

Definitely want larger battery than most as I am heavier.

Hydraulic brakes are a must at my weight, but most premium bikes come with them anyways.

I'm needing to carry some stuff on the back. Nothing crazy, just my bike stuff and my own groceries or whatever.

I was looking at internally geared hubs, but mostly in the context of belt drives. What are your thoughts about them with a chain?

Thank you for your input! I look forward to chatting with y'all 💓
Edit note: I need a speed pedelec/class 3 ebike. A bike that assists up to 28mph (45.06km/h)
 
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The main advantage to a mid-drive is it powers through your bicycle's chain and gears. You can climb steeper grades with them as you can shift to a lower gear and not bog down the motor. If your hills are too much, you could buy a bike with a bigger hubmotor. Though, that would be outlaw territory.
If I built/bought another ebike I would definitely want torque sensing.
 
Been looking at Trek since there is a store near me.
Their Dual Sport, Verve, and Allant series all have great potential.
Info page link on top, product listings on bottom

Dual sport:

Verve:

Allant:
 
My dream bike would be a step through full suspension mid-drive belted geared-hub bike. They're out there, but the money for me is not.
I'm going to transfer my BBSO2 from a 7.2 Trek to a 20 year-old full suspension mountain bike that I scored for 30 bucks. Low miles, but left in the rain for quite a few years, so I'm taking it apart and cleaning, regreasing, replacing. After that maybe I'll get to find out what a full suspension ebike feels like, though I really need to find out what torque sensor input feels like. I find cadence sensing quite boring and just go to throttle, which makes the bicycle just a motorbike.
 
My dream bike would be a step through full suspension mid-drive belted geared-hub bike. They're out there, but the money for me is not.
I'm going to transfer my BBSO2 from a 7.2 Trek to a 20 year-old full suspension mountain bike that I scored for 30 bucks. Low miles, but left in the rain for quite a few years, so I'm taking it apart and cleaning, regreasing, replacing. After that maybe I'll get to find out what a full suspension ebike feels like, though I really need to find out what torque sensor input feels like. I find cadence sensing quite boring and just go to throttle, which makes the bicycle just a motorbike.
what limited experience I have with torque sensing bikes compared to my cadence sensor tells me that I'll never buy another cadence sensor 😂
 
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Skud, do not take it personally: Most of e-bikes (except of cargo e-bikes) have the total weight limit (bike, rider, cargo) of 300 lbs. I am sure you will be given advices for an e-bike for heavier riders from other Forum members.

Of the e-bikes you mentioned (despite of the weight limit):
  • Trek: Look to the Allant+ line
  • Scott is OK if you have a Scott LBS around. The total system weight given by Scott is 130 kg (286 lb)
  • R&M: Do you have an R&M dealer around you?
 
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The main advantage to a mid-drive is it powers through your bicycle's chain and gears. You can climb steeper grades with them as you can shift to a lower gear and not bog down the motor.
This fantasy is so prevalent it is a electricbikereview mania. Most mid-drives have a 46 tooth drive gear. Unless the rear sprocket of a bike has a 48 tooth or bigger rear sprocket (very rare except >$5000 mountain bikes) you get speed multiplication from the gears, not torque multiplication. Mid drives cool better than geared hub drives and can climb slowly a longer time without overheating.
The scott-sports ebike stated the max load was 130 kg. That is 286 lb. 55 mm tires are limited about 200 lb each anyway. Upright posture mtb-cruiser-city frames put 70% of the rider's weight on the back tire, overloading it with a 55 mm tire & 310 lb rider. Take two platform scales and measure your current bike with you sitting on it. Be aware replacment bosch batteries cost >$1000 and have been unavailable for months as reported on this site.
Stretch frame ebies put ~50% of the rider's weight on the front tire, but may not fit a carrier on a van because of the extra length. See the bikes by category section, cargo bikes, for a selection. Mine in the avatar is a yuba bodaboda special frame for short people. Other brands xtracycle, giant momentum, R&M, pedego, blix, kona ute https://pedelecs.bike/longtail/kona-electric-ute/ . Check count of known problems on the brand forum, I left out some brands that have a lot of problems reported.
I can't look at the R&M website, the cookie disclaimer covers the page and won't go away by clicking the X.
Blix Packa had a 400 lb limit in 2020 but that spec has disappeared in 2023. It is not torque sensing, but does have hydraulic brakes and a throttle. I can't look at that page anymore, blix locks up my computer with dancing graphics.
I deleted my PAS sensor I hated PAS so badly. 11 mph in PAS 1 is dangerous on 3" wide berms with a 6" deep trench between the berm & the car pavement. I use throttle only when I don't pedal unpowered.
You would want 2.4" to 2.8" tires rated 55 psi or greater to carry cargo plus a 310 lb rider. Most tires 3.0" or bigger are only rated at <25 psi and cannot carry large weights.
Quick service can't be expected at any shop. I do my own maintenance since I don't drive a car, and keep a spare power wheel, controller, throttle in my garage at all times for quick service.
It seems that your needs would be best served by a motorcycle. Bigger tires, more power. See a motorcycle website about those products.
 
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Most mid-drives have a 46 tooth drive gear.
How so? Depending on the e-bike type it could be as low as 32T to 38T max (advanced e-MTB). It could be anything from 40 to 48T depending on the e-bike purpose/function. It could even be a 60T chainring if it is an IGH e-bike.

Mid-drive e-bikes have far better power delivery compared to hub-drives. A hub-drive delivers constant assistance depending on the assistance level. Mid-drives have variable assistance depending not only on the assistance level but also on the rider's leg input into the cranks. A mid-drive can easily be ridden as slow or as fast as desired. A hub drive gets the e-bike on constant speed depending on the assistance (and the throttle position).

Big brands tend to use mid-drives, with the only exception being some low-power/small battery lightweight e-bikes.
 
I don't know, but I'm now of the mindset to install DD hub motors on the rear wheels of 20 year-old mountain bikes.
Probably doesn't fit the OP's need, but they're such fun machines to figure out.
 
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Take a look at the Magnum Nomad, it's 48v/17Ah, 750w-1500w mid-drive, SUV-Tank for big riders.
 
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