Looking for a kit recommendation

Jims55

New Member
Region
USA
I’m new to ebikes and wanted to get a couple of ideas on how to proceed with electrifying my bike. It’s a steel framed Raleigh mountain bike (no suspension) currently set up as a hybrid with an upright riding position. I weigh about 220 lbs, the bike weighs close to 40 lbs including the bags, racks and baskets presently installed. I use this bike predominately as my grocery getter and will load it with another 30 lbs. Most rides are 4 to 10 miles round trip. I live a few hundred feet in elevation above my town, so all my rides on the way out are downhill, up to 20% grades in a couple of spots. Return trips aren’t fun so I’m looking for a set up with enough pedal assist power to get me back home without my heart pounding like a jack hammer. I was thinking about a front hub drive. Would 500 watts be enough? Also how would I determine ideal battery voltage and amperage? All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks,
Jim
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I am a newbie here with limited experience ... however ... if hills are involved, you want mid drive. I think the gears in the back and mid drive will work. You don't sound like you need a lot of range, so you don't need a lot of battery.
 
I am a newbie here with limited experience ... however ... if hills are involved, you want mid drive. I think the gears in the back and mid drive will work.
Yeah, mid drive makes all the bike salesmen & chain salesmen & pro chain replacemen happy. Hill does not equal mid drive. Hill greater than 1000' rise in an hour equals mid-drive. Rockies, Sierras, Alps only. I cross 80 hills weekly with a front hub motor, 3 of them 15% grade and some others close to that. 200' total rise.
It is nearly impossible to buy a geared hub motor >500 watts these days. US vendors won't sell 48 v geared hub motors either. See above. People buy them then the first weekend then immediately try to go from Huntington Beach to Lake Arrowhead in one run. Burnt motor, warranty claim. I had a 1000 W Mac12t, loved it, rain burnt the pins off the ASI controller into the harness. Can't buy another one, except maybe in pallets of 8 from factory in Shanghai on alibaba.
Easiest front geared hub conversion is ebikeling.com . everything matches. Stupid lying displays and too fast too quick PAS1 on the one I bought in 2017, but everything matched. Worked 1st time. Still using the controller etc. That motor wore out the gears in 4500 miles.
OTOH if you want to save money and buy the controller, pas pickup, throttle, brake handles one at a time off ebay, batteryclearancewarehouse.com has bafang 500 w front hub motors for 36v for sale now, $23 each. No wheel. I have had trouble buying anything that matched on ebay. Even if the connectors are labeled on the ad, when the controller comes in the labels are all in Chinese.
Alternative is "1000 w" or "2000 w" direct drive hub motors. Total misapplication climbing hills with these. They won't burn up, but they will eat vast quantities of watthours going slowly uphill.
Don't use a front hub motor on slick or muddy rocks, steel plates, wood bridge decks, or on ice. Pedal or push when that occurs.
OTOH, when I loaded a MTB like that I got 23 lb front wheel 118 lb rear wheel without me on it. Weight on the back lifts the front wheel. I pitched over the handlebars on my chin 3 times, and once was knocked over by a dog charging the front wheel. Front wheel would hit a bump, stick, rock, snap sideways and up the seat would go. I haven't fallen off the stretch frame cargo bike yet. You can get used ones, unpowered. Stretch frame cargo bike puts rider weight on the front wheel, cargo on the back. Xtracycle yuba blix packa mongoose envoy are names to cruise craigslist ads with. New Mongoose envoy was about $750 new when the conversion was done listed on this topic. Avoid the old shimano 6 speed rear axles, they are too thin & one broke under my enormous 180 lb. No cargo that day. I converted my yuba bodaboda for about $840, 630 of that the battery. ebikeling batteries are cheaper than that. But I have 840 wh.
 
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I’m new to ebikes and wanted to get a couple of ideas on how to proceed with electrifying my bike. It’s a steel framed Raleigh mountain bike (no suspension) currently set up as a hybrid with an upright riding position. I weigh about 220 lbs, the bike weighs close to 40 lbs including the bags, racks and baskets presently installed. I use this bike predominately as my grocery getter and will load it with another 30 lbs. Most rides are 4 to 10 miles round trip. I live a few hundred feet in elevation above my town, so all my rides on the way out are downhill, up to 20% grades in a couple of spots. Return trips aren’t fun so I’m looking for a set up with enough pedal assist power to get me back home without my heart pounding like a jack hammer. I was thinking about a front hub drive. Would 500 watts be enough? Also how would I determine ideal battery voltage and amperage? All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks,
Jim
View attachment 116488
One thing that is pretty important for new users is customer support, believe me I bought a kit that had virtually none ! It's not fun waiting days on end for a reply to a simple question.
I bought a part from
And was impressed with their response time.
One other point I would be careful putting a high power (over 250w) on a front fork. The front forks were not built as strong as the rear ones and can actually snap under stress !
They are the easiest to install but limited power is highly recommended. Front drives like on cars can be squirrelly feeling and spin out due to low weight over the drive wheel.

My choice would be a rear internally geared hub motor. Only slightly more difficult to install (nothing compared to a mid drive!) and you get low weight to power ratio due to the gears, small size and good torque. They are also very quiet.
Here is a video you might find useful, their equipement is high quality and also higher cost but customer service can't be beat. (New item IGH motor with regen and can be programed to freewhell when coasting !).

 
One other point I would be careful putting a high power (over 250w) on a front fork. The front forks were not built as strong as the rear ones and can actually snap under stress !
O.P. said he had a steel framed MTB he wants to convert. Steel framed means steel fork. My aluminum frame bike has a steel fork. No problems with a 1300 w motor, nor a high torque 1000 w motor. I do use a torque arm 4" long. I'm 7000 miles after electric conversion of that bike. 1300 w motor was originally installed on a nineties Huffy Savannah I paid $15 for. No fork problems there either.
No front hub motors on carbon fiber forks, aluminum forks, or suspension forks.
 
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O.P. said he had a steel framed MTB he wants to convert. Steel framed means steel fork. My aluminum frame bike has a steel fork. No problems with a 1300 w motor, nor a high torque 1000 w motor. I do use a torque arm 4" long. I'm 7000 miles after electric conversion of that bike. 1300 w motor was originally installed on a nineties Huffy Savannah I paid $15 for. No fork problems there either.
No front hub motors on carbon fiber forks, aluminum forks, or suspension forks.
What I said still stands, front forks are not as strong as the rear.
 
I’m new to ebikes and wanted to get a couple of ideas on how to proceed with electrifying my bike. It’s a steel framed Raleigh mountain bike (no suspension) currently set up as a hybrid with an upright riding position. I weigh about 220 lbs, the bike weighs close to 40 lbs including the bags, racks and baskets presently installed. I use this bike predominately as my grocery getter and will load it with another 30 lbs. Most rides are 4 to 10 miles round trip. I live a few hundred feet in elevation above my town, so all my rides on the way out are downhill, up to 20% grades in a couple of spots. Return trips aren’t fun so I’m looking for a set up with enough pedal assist power to get me back home without my heart pounding like a jack hammer. I was thinking about a front hub drive. Would 500 watts be enough? Also how would I determine ideal battery voltage and amperage? All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks,
Jim
View attachment 116488
I can't say if you would find 500w "enough" but given that you already ride that route without assist I feel pretty sure that you could be happy with the assist as long as you still put in effort. I live on a small mountain where I have 4 miles of almost continuous uphill grade to get home and found that kit to be very capable, the motor has never gotten hot to the touch although the controller gets very hot if left in any enclosure, not if exposed to air.
This is the kit I bought on Amazon for ~$270, now it is listed for ~$330. The accessories such as the lights work pretty well too but I don't use them.
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In my experience installation of a hub motor can be a hassle, your rear dropouts would probably need to be spread (I used a screw type car jack on my '80s Schwinn Sierra mountain bike) . And not all front forks work well with front hub motors - if the dropout is in the middle of the fork tube the motor casing can rub on the fork tube requiring spacers which must be done symmetrically on both sides otherwise the wheel will be off center affecting your brakes. To put spacers on both sides of the hub inside of the dropouts would probably require spreading the forks. YMMV.

This is my wife's bike that I installed a front hub motor on - it works great including steep grades but a front motor can spin the wheel on low traction surfaces like gravel or grass.
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Yeah, mid drive makes all the bike salesmen & chain salesmen & pro chain replacemen happy. Hill does not equal mid drive. Hill greater than 1000' rise in an hour equals mid-drive. Rockies, Sierras, Alps only. I cross 80 hills weekly with a front hub motor, 3 of them 15% grade and some others close to that. 200' total rise.
It is nearly impossible to buy a geared hub motor >500 watts these days. US vendors won't sell 48 v geared hub motors either. See above. People buy them then the first weekend then immediately try to go from Huntington Beach to Lake Arrowhead in one run. Burnt motor, warranty claim. I had a 1000 W Mac12t, loved it, rain burnt the pins off the ASI controller into the harness. Can't buy another one, except maybe in pallets of 8 from factory in Shanghai on alibaba.
Easiest front geared hub conversion is ebikeling.com . everything matches. Stupid lying displays and too fast too quick PAS1 on the one I bought in 2017, but everything matched. Worked 1st time. Still using the controller etc. That motor wore out the gears in 4500 miles.
OTOH if you want to save money and buy the controller, pas pickup, throttle, brake handles one at a time off ebay, batteryclearancewarehouse.com has bafang 500 w front hub motors for 36v for sale now, $23 each. No wheel. I have had trouble buying anything that matched on ebay. Even if the connectors are labeled on the ad, when the controller comes in the labels are all in Chinese.
Alternative is "1000 w" or "2000 w" direct drive hub motors. Total misapplication climbing hills with these. They won't burn up, but they will eat vast quantities of watthours going slowly uphill.
Don't use a front hub motor on slick or muddy rocks, steel plates, wood bridge decks, or on ice. Pedal or push when that occurs.
OTOH, when I loaded a MTB like that I got 23 lb front wheel 118 lb rear wheel without me on it. Weight on the back lifts the front wheel. I pitched over the handlebars on my chin 3 times, and once was knocked over by a dog charging the front wheel. Front wheel would hit a bump, stick, rock, snap sideways and up the seat would go. I haven't fallen off the stretch frame cargo bike yet. You can get used ones, unpowered. Stretch frame cargo bike puts rider weight on the front wheel, cargo on the back. Xtracycle yuba blix packa mongoose envoy are names to cruise craigslist ads with. New Mongoose envoy was about $750 new when the conversion was done listed on this topic. Avoid the old shimano 6 speed rear axles, they are too thin & one broke under my enormous 180 lb. No cargo that day. I converted my yuba bodaboda for about $840, 630 of that the battery. ebikeling batteries are cheaper than that. But I have 840 wh.
There are so many silly ideas posted that I don’t know where to begin.

MAC and Grin have GD motors capable of 1500W.

I have bikes with more than 5000 miles and original chains.

Cutler MAC will sell you a single motor. A group buy is another option that I’ve seen work out well. ASI controller is overkill IME.
Okay here.
Eunorau known to dealers for ripping off and copying designs. Lekkie and Gear sensor amount the copies.
 
This is the kit I bought on Amazon for ~$270, now it is listed for ~$330. The accessories such as the lights work pretty well too but I don't use them.
Yes but for some those kits require more help and issues than many are surprised by.

Thanks only to you and fellows like HarryS these low ball kit buyers find help. Higher mileage riders ought to raise the budget IMNSHO.

I really like you wife’s frame. And do like my Trek Pure front DD. I have a MAC front GD for my trike. If it ever gets unloaded.
 
Eunorau is copying what design?

The hub motor kit that I posted isn't manufactured by Eunorau, as far as I know.
I bought Eunorau kit couple of times because the price was okay, and I research around on AliExpress all the time.
We worked with them a couple of years ago. Actually received and helped setup bikes for an eBike show. I already mentioned two copied products. I’m happy you’re happy. I recently bought a budget kit and helped an acquaintance a friend bought Eunorau. Like most or many DD motors they are 9-Continent clones and no where near the quality. IMO ok for weekend good weather riders but a big MEH for higher mileage active riders. As always YMMV.
 
Ebikeling has a 48v 1200w DD kit that I’m considering as a rear drive set up. It looks complete, minus the battery.
 
Ebikeling has a 48v 1200w DD kit that I’m considering as a rear drive set up. It looks complete, minus the battery. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
DD is fine for the flats or fast on low grades. My 1000w DD accelerated from a stop too slowly to clear the green light across 6 lane Hwy 62. DD consume too many watthours climbing medium to steep grades slowly. My ebikeling 1300 w geared hub used 2/3 the watthours of the DD motor, and the mac12t 2/3 of that, on my usual route with 62-80 hills.
Ebikeling stuff has been reliable for me. 2017 PAS1 was too fast & jerky, and the 2017 display lied a lot , like registering 0 mph while going about 30 downhill. I deleted the PAS, use the throttle. Ebikeling batteries work, worth the $350 or so he sells them for. Click the box add battery.
Only mac ad bing could find for me on a mac12t was a pallet of 8 for $1600. Alibaba, not aliexpress. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Mac-bldc-hub-motor-6T-8T_60512780782.html Not specified front or rear, not specified what connector, not specified voltage. Maybe in a picto language. I only read English, Spanish, German & French. Cutler mac is in ***** apparently which has beaucoup risks IMHO. Grin is in Canada, from whom one poster had his shipment held in customs in Memphis for 16 weeks.
 
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DD is fine for the flats or fast on low grades. My 1000w DD accelerated from a stop too slowly to clear the green light across 6 lane Hwy 62. DD consume too many watthours climbing medium to steep grades slowly. My ebikeling 1300 w geared hub used 2/3 the watthours of the DD motor, and the mac12t 2/3 of that, on my usual route with 62-80 hills.
Ebikeling stuff has been reliable for me. 2017 PAS1 was too fast & jerky, and the 2017 display lied a lot , like registering 0 mph while going about 30 downhill. I deleted the PAS, use the throttle. Ebikeling batteries work, worth the $350 or so he sells them for. Click the box add battery.
Only mac ad bing could find for me on a mac12t was a pallet of 8 for $1600. Alibaba, not aliexpress. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Mac-bldc-hub-motor-6T-8T_60512780782.html Not specified front or rear, not specified what connector, not specified voltage. Maybe in a picto language. I only read English, Spanish, German & French. Cutler mac is in ***** apparently which has beaucoup risks IMHO. Grin is in Canada, from whom one poster had his shipment held in customs in Memphis for 16 weeks.
Good land man. I got a couple of MAC motors a couple of months ago. If you're serious, let's do a group order. Sadly I find you a really helpful guy but I can't figure out where you get some of the what seem to be uninformed and silly statements. You're paranoid due to past experiences that frankly were simply due to your own lack of due diligence. I've had 4 orders from ebikes.ca this year already and ALL came in less than a week. I'd be happy to help yu get anything from Grin on my account. Free shipping. But it'll add another few days. They won't drop ship.
 
I’m new to ebikes and wanted to get a couple of ideas on how to proceed with electrifying my bike. It’s a steel framed Raleigh mountain bike (no suspension) currently set up as a hybrid with an upright riding position. I weigh about 220 lbs, the bike weighs close to 40 lbs including the bags, racks and baskets presently installed. I use this bike predominately as my grocery getter and will load it with another 30 lbs. Most rides are 4 to 10 miles round trip. I live a few hundred feet in elevation above my town, so all my rides on the way out are downhill, up to 20% grades in a couple of spots. Return trips aren’t fun so I’m looking for a set up with enough pedal assist power to get me back home without my heart pounding like a jack hammer. I was thinking about a front hub drive. Would 500 watts be enough? Also how would I determine ideal battery voltage and amperage? All suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks,
Jim
I'm looking at everything in bold and thinking my vote would be mid drive as well. Biggest decision here would be making the call between a Bafang BBSxx or one of the Tsdz2 drives. Both are available on Amazon. Either should supply all of the climbing power you would ever want. The next concern would be stopping. The lack of disk brakes, especially when considering hills, would be a show stopper here. There are those though, that poo poo that idea, and say they stop fine using rim brakes. Whatever, just pointing out something worth pondering....
 
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I don't know what Lekkie Bling Ring, but isn't the sensor made by Bafang?

I don't think Eunorau copied anything (??)
You don’t think. Both are true. Gear Sensor was developed in the EU. See my 2014 or 2015 distributions on endless sphere. FFS Google Lekkie.
 
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