Lishui LSW784-45-3M vs LSW1106-58-10F Controller

[kaybee123]

I opened everything up and accessed the controller only to discover that there was a thick glue-like / wax like cover on the circuit board which prevents you from modifying it. It was a HUGE pain to access the controller as well because there were screws with very little clearance (seriously, it took like 45 min to unscrew something that should have taken 5 minutes).

I hope to never do that again!

I believe you'd have to replace the controller in order to unlock more speed/power... even though technically that controller is supposed to be able to do more.

 

[Calicoskies]

Hi: I'm a fairly new Yukon owner (and new to eBikes) and interested in hacking the controller if possible to deliver a bit more power. (I am an EE with some knowledge of electronics)
1) how did you know it was limiting to 15A? Is that just from looking at the power meter on the display
2) I'm concerned about the statement of 10A continuous. I find one can sustain over 600W for a while, when biking, so surely it must be able to sustain over 10A for quite a while. Maybe continuous means for 100s of hours?
3) did you ever find out how to increase the current beyond 15A?
4) I was told something about modifying the shunt resistor might do it, but I would need more info about this. I'm not going to do something like this until I understand the ramifications.
4) can you recommend good resources for hacking the controller, are there s/w means of doing this?
5) or is it best to just change the controller?

Thanks
Roger

Hi Roger, we have been talking on the Yukon Group (same guy).
1. Yes, full battery and go for a ride. You can set to 15 or 25 and get same results.
2. Continuous means forever or a lot of hours. Remember manufacture told me via email that it is 12A cont and 25A max (trust them or me is up to you but looking at the insides from pictures above it looks legit).
3. No on getting into software, still think making a cable and connecting to computer and using the free software would do the trick.
4. I say no to shunt stuff, this is software limit not the controller lacking.
4 (2). The links I gave you have the software link and than making the correct cable is the trick. This should be similar to the other Bafang motors and products Lishui supplies.
5. Pain to change controller because of the cables but yes, I would switch to a KT LCD3 display at same time to have complete controller of settings. My other two bikes have that display, one that I built my self.

Good luck and let us know if you decide to go first, surprised that M2S or Radrover folks have not done this already which has very similar if not exact parts. Actually several others use this same default bike from China.

Anyone with pinout of cable we need to talk to controller via PC and controller? THANKS.

 

[kaybee123]

I bought the required adapter to talk to the controler (ST-LInk II) however you CANNOT access it. (As I previously stated)

THIS is the Voltbike controller:

There is a huge amount of wax/glue/epoxy material covering everything. (Possibly to waterproof it or to prevent tampering).

 

[Calicoskies]

I bought the required adapter to talk to the controler (ST-LInk II) however you CANNOT access it. (As I previously stated)

THIS is the Voltbike controller:

There is a huge amount of wax/glue/epoxy material covering everything. (Possibly to waterproof it or to prevent tampering).

Hey kaybee, I must of missed the message about you trying the ST-Link II. Did not know that was even the correct connector to try, thought it was just a passive connection for rx/tx, with the computer software running and likely no display connected but may be y cabled in.

Here is link to software that I guess you tried. https://electricbikereview.com/foru...drover-controller-firmware.13707/#post-164889

 

[Rsplodge]

Hey kaybee, I must of missed the message about you trying the ST-Link II. Did not know that was even the correct connector to try, thought it was just a passive connection for rx/tx, with the computer software running and likely no display connected but may be y cabled in.

Here is link to software that I guess you tried. https://electricbikereview.com/foru...drover-controller-firmware.13707/#post-164889

Yes I don't think I saw a post about trying ST-Link II. Maybe it's posted in another forum/thread(?)

That's what I suspected about the epoxy covering, as it's critical to waterproof the controller well. There were comments somewhere in this forum about Voltbike taking care of waterproofing/sealing the controller better in the latest generation of bikes. They might have been referring to just the seals or it might have been requiring their controller supplier to epoxy the electronics, or selecting a new one that was already epoxied.

However, even without being able to get at the parts themselves, are you saying that there is no s/w method of communicating and changing certain settings through the existing wiring and connectors? Does it require connecting into some other connector on the board?

Ok Calicoskies, thanks I thought maybe it was you over on the FB group! Yup I've started reading the links over in that other forum and coming up to speed so to speak.

....Roger

 

[Calicoskies]

Nice little video of the motor having the firmware written(not 100% this is the correct software),

Just need to figure out that cable pinout, this link has the pinout under the link that ends in pdf (i think). https://www.poweredride.com/info/bbshd-and-bbs02-configuration-programming-resources

Kaybee I am not sure if you tried all the things in these links like connecting pc first to get driver going and figuring out which COM Port is being used, connects to motor not on display at all.

Before I get yelled at this is dangerous and please do not try this at home, we get it. This can void warranty and be dangerous so please do at your own risk.

 

[Rsplodge]

Nice little video of the motor having the firmware written(not 100% this is the correct software),

Cool, so in this case the mid-motor has the controller built into it (?)

 

[Calicoskies]

Yes it is, still a separate piece but built in (what is in his hand below is controller). I would guess the firmware is stored on the controller for us. The pdf makes more sense to me, I would think you could get the connection going but not do a firmware upgrade but uncheck the keep settings and adjust the current level. Easy, . We are counting on you Roger. Need George from VoltBike just to send us a private message with the steps and ask us not to share so we stop talking about it.

 

[Rsplodge]

ha, ha. I've got a day job to worry about though! I'm starting to think it's just easier to upgrade the controller. One video I saw said that we won't get any increase in top-speed out of it but only torque which I think you or someone else mentioned already.

 

[AZOldTech]

Since you guys are discussing Lishui controllers, any idea where someone can buy one preferably the LSW1155-29M a 48V controller with max current 22A, rated current 11A, low voltage protection 40V and throttle adj voltage 1.2v-4.4V ???? Or something equivalent from another company? I google searched and can't come up with anything with the same specs and size. So I wonder what people do when their controller for their ebike goes out and the company that supplied the ebike and controller is no longer in business?? This is all hypothetical and looking long term... cause there is no reason why an ebike can not last you 30 years as long as you have replacements for battery, bafang hub motor and/or replacement gears, and controller. The battery and bafang motor are easily accessible. So why not the controller???

 

[Rsplodge]

You could try looking/asking on some of the FB groups like Endless Sphere or DIY eBikes, etc.

...Roger

 

[LuckyDog]

I have been looking for any specifications on the controller in Voltbike Yukon 750 2018 edition which has LSW 1106-58-10F instead of the LSW784-45-3M pictured below. This is likely the same controller on many bikes here including the RadRover, China supplied. My bike is brand new and have not taken the controller off to study, located in the box near front rear fender. It is likely still rated current of 10 amp and maximum 20 amp but not sure if it has some improved parts inside. I am running the Bafang G06 750w motor and would like to raise my current level to a safe level. Using the 80% rule for 20a I have it set for 16 amps at the moment. If the controller can handle 22 i would like to go to 17 or 18. Thanks for any help from the experts on this forum. Loving the bike so far by the way.

Check this out in case you missed it. Looks like a lot of info: https://opensourceebikefirmware.bit...llers--Lishui_motor_controllers--LSW-675.html

 

[T4KT1KZ]

I bought the required adapter to talk to the controler (ST-LInk II) however you CANNOT access it. (As I previously stated)

THIS is the Voltbike controller:

There is a huge amount of wax/glue/epoxy material covering everything. (Possibly to waterproof it or to prevent tampering).

Check this out in case you missed it. Looks like a lot of info: https://opensourceebikefirmware.bit...llers--Lishui_motor_controllers--LSW-675.html

To enable max power output you need to change the Amp output setting In the display.

With bike on. Click pwr button twice to enter menu. Clicking pwr will allow you to go to next setting. The + AND - buttons enable you to change the settings. Repeat until you get to PSD.

Enter 1919 to enter advanced menu.

First setting is speed limit. Set to your preference. Next setting is amp output should show

bu0 on the screen

Change to 19 and double click to save and exit. This will enable max power output if you set it to 20 or above it will revert to stock factory settings and limit you to 750 watt.

With 19A set. On a full charged pack it will put out 1043w.

Definitely noticable increase in power. But also drains the battery faster.

Check the manual for more detailed information.