Lishui LSW784-45-3M vs LSW1106-58-10F Controller

Calicoskies

Active Member
I have been looking for any specifications on the controller in Voltbike Yukon 750 2018 edition which has LSW 1106-58-10F instead of the LSW784-45-3M pictured below. This is likely the same controller on many bikes here including the RadRover, China supplied. My bike is brand new and have not taken the controller off to study, located in the box near front rear fender. It is likely still rated current of 10 amp and maximum 20 amp but not sure if it has some improved parts inside. I am running the Bafang G06 750w motor and would like to raise my current level to a safe level. Using the 80% rule for 20a I have it set for 16 amps at the moment. If the controller can handle 22 i would like to go to 17 or 18. Thanks for any help from the experts on this forum. Loving the bike so far by the way.
 

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Update: Took a few pictures of inside and outside of controller. Inside has been sealed against water so not able to study any parts. Still shows 20 AMP max but low volt cutoff is 40v now instead of 41v. Seems pretty heavy duty with the heat sink and all but still not sure if I want to push pass 16 AMPS on display setting. Thanks for any opinions from the experts on here.
 

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I rarely come up empty with online searches but the best I could do was determine that the manufacturer is Nanjing Lishui Electronics Research Institute Co., Ltd. You can try and email them at scheftlein(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)lsdzs.com and see if they can help you. I can't even find a website with a simple lookup on the CE number to confirm the manufacturer. Forum member ace20ri has probably done the most expansive modding of a Yukon including the electronics and could probably help you out.

I'm curious, does the display show the factory setting for the controller? Is it 16? If so, that would make sense since Voltbike is advertising this as a 750W ebike (48v x 16Ah = 768W).
 
Thanks PCDoctor, I did not have much luck either on a search. I read all the stuff from ace20ri on here and was hoping for him to chime in and you. Default is actually 15 straight from Voltbike sent to US, I went up one. Interesting article that shows the similar Radrover with a similar but not the same controller minus the sealant stuff poured all over here https://syonyk.blogspot.com/2016/03/rad-power-bikes-rad-rover.html . With the 12 mosfets I would think this controller can go much higher and they are being very conservative. I do not need more power I just like knowing what I have. The range on display is up to 30 amps. Would be nice to go to 20 for brief watts to 960 or more with a full battery.
 
Thanks for the link. Interesting read even though on their older model. Sitting on the fence again trying to decide between Voltbike and Rad. Voltbike is accepting pre-orders, but Rad just got stock in and is taking orders (phone and online) starting at 9 a.m. PT tomorrow on a first come first serve basis. Time to put up, shut up or wait on Voltbike.
 
Thanks PCDoctor, I did not have much luck either on a search. I read all the stuff from ace20ri on here and was hoping for him to chime in and you. Default is actually 15 straight from Voltbike sent to US, I went up one. Interesting article that shows the similar Radrover with a similar but not the same controller minus the sealant stuff poured all over here https://syonyk.blogspot.com/2016/03/rad-power-bikes-rad-rover.html . With the 12 mosfets I would think this controller can go much higher and they are being very conservative. I do not need more power I just like knowing what I have. The range on display is up to 30 amps. Would be nice to go to 20 for brief watts to 960 or more with a full battery.
Wow, are you saying you can adjust the current (amperage) output of the controller on the fly? If so, that is awesome and i think every ebike should have that.

With 12 mosfets it could probably handle 35 to 40 amps ( briefly), and 20 sounds very conservative. Even at 20 it will still run cool and efficient. 18 sounds good though, and at full charge ( 54v) x 18a = 972w...pretty good :)
 
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54? The battery on the Yukon is 48V.
Hi, sorry if that was confusing. 48v is the nominal voltage. On a 48v system a full charge will be around 54v plus or minus a few tenths of a volt. My bike charges to 54.1v and my wife's bike charges to 54.4v. Hope that helps :)
 
I rarely come up empty with online searches but the best I could do was determine that the manufacturer is Nanjing Lishui Electronics Research Institute Co., Ltd. You can try and email them at scheftlein(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)lsdzs.com and see if they can help you. I can't even find a website with a simple lookup on the CE number to confirm the manufacturer. Forum member ace20ri has probably done the most expansive modding of a Yukon including the electronics and could probably help you out.

I'm curious, does the display show the factory setting for the controller? Is it 16? If so, that would make sense since Voltbike is advertising this as a 750W ebike (48v x 16Ah = 768W).

I sent a email and received a reply back saying you need to ask VoltBike, he was not going to say anything more than what it shows on the label.

Thanks Ryno for the response, I think it will run 20 amps all day also but that little unknown if one part on the board is going to cause me a problem. I am pretty sure it is closer to a 26 amp or 30 amp controller and they say 20 max so it last 40 years instead of 20 years.

I may try 20 amp and see if i can even tell a difference, part of my hang up is I am running a couple of other bikes that are Class 3 with 2.15 tires and those bikes move a lot more effortlessly to 28 mph (99% of time I am under 20). I enjoy taking the fat tire in the grass, woods, sand (not tried yet) and gravel which the other two can only stay on paved paths. Nice to have options.
 
I received a reply back from Nanjing Lishui Electronics "the controller can take 25Amps peak and around 12amp continuous". That is what I was looking for (and thinking by looking at it) and hope this help others that want to go up a little on amps. I think I will try 20 for a while and see if I like it or not even notice. Motor is rated for 1300 watts (my opinion because wattage is reported differently between vendors) so no worries there. My other bike came with a 500 watt motor and 26 amp controller and straight from the factory set to 1300 watts for short bursts (hills). Using the common 80% rule 25 -20% = 20 .
 
Ok after all that it appears that I am not going over 15 amps. It does not matter if I am on a hill or PAS 9 or using the throttle it just tops out 15 amps times my voltage. Full battery 54 volts I get 810 watts and when i got home i measured it at 48 and my watts were 720 from the bike so that matches. Sounds like it is locked someplace we can not access. I am happy with the speed of the bike and for now will just keep things how they are. Was nice to know the true numbers on the controller so it should run cool and for a long time. Maybe one day I will add the color display and unlock some of the settings to see what the bike can really do. Think we have the 800 and the link below is the 850C that looks like the next level up, has same password and from same company but not 100% sure if plug and play or if it would give me anything. Color display and voltage reading would be nice, for about 100 dollars.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3d7asKm1UuZLTCzOkix2fJ
 
Ok after all that it appears that I am not going over 15 amps. It does not matter if I am on a hill or PAS 9 or using the throttle it just tops out 15 amps times my voltage. Full battery 54 volts I get 810 watts and when i got home i measured it at 48 and my watts were 720 from the bike so that matches. Sounds like it is locked someplace we can not access. I am happy with the speed of the bike and for now will just keep things how they are. Was nice to know the true numbers on the controller so it should run cool and for a long time. Maybe one day I will add the color display and unlock some of the settings to see what the bike can really do. Think we have the 800 and the link below is the 850C that looks like the next level up, has same password and from same company but not 100% sure if plug and play or if it would give me anything. Color display and voltage reading would be nice, for about 100 dollars.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3d7asKm1UuZLTCzOkix2fJ
That 850C display looks really nice. Did you enter 1234 for the factory menu and then 1919 for the advanced menu on your 800 display?
 
Not sure if you were messing with me or not Ryno but I did check the 1234. Just goes back to the setting before the password prompt which means wrong password I guess.
 
Not sure if you were messing with me or not Ryno but I did check the 1234. Just goes back to the setting before the password prompt which means wrong password I guess.
No, not messing with you, sorry if it seemed that way. You mentioned the 800 and 850C have the same password (if i read you right). I downloaded the 850C manual and it shows 1234 for factory menu and 1919 for advanced menu. I think the factory menu password is user selectable or you already have it. I was mainly wondering if you got into the advanced menu with 1919.
 
I was just kidding around. I see the 1234 setting on the 850 in manual that is for a start the bike password, so I guess the kids or wife could not turn it on unless you wanted them to. Yes I get into the advanced menu just fine on the 800 display.
 
I was just kidding around. I see the 1234 setting on the 850 in manual that is for a start the bike password, so I guess the kids or wife could not turn it on unless you wanted them to. Yes I get into the advanced menu just fine on the 800 display.
Well, that's a bummer then. I think it would be a great feature if you could adjust the current up or down. Nevertheless, enjoy your bike :)
 
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No, tried to order the 850C but was shutdown by M2S because not a owner. Unsure if that will work or not but was going to try it because I wanted voltage to be displayed while riding. I am happy for now but down the road may change the controller out with something I can control all options. I like the LCD3 and a 28 amp controller combo because that is what I have on my other two bikes.
 
Ok after all that it appears that I am not going over 15 amps. It does not matter if I am on a hill or PAS 9 or using the throttle it just tops out 15 amps times my voltage. Full battery 54 volts I get 810 watts and when i got home i measured it at 48 and my watts were 720 from the bike so that matches. Sounds like it is locked someplace we can not access. I am happy with the speed of the bike and for now will just keep things how they are. Was nice to know the true numbers on the controller so it should run cool and for a long time. Maybe one day I will add the color display and unlock some of the settings to see what the bike can really do. Think we have the 800 and the link below is the 850C that looks like the next level up, has same password and from same company but not 100% sure if plug and play or if it would give me anything. Color display and voltage reading would be nice, for about 100 dollars.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3d7asKm1UuZLTCzOkix2fJ

Hi: I'm a fairly new Yukon owner (and new to eBikes) and interested in hacking the controller if possible to deliver a bit more power. (I am an EE with some knowledge of electronics)
1) how did you know it was limiting to 15A? Is that just from looking at the power meter on the display
2) I'm concerned about the statement of 10A continuous. I find one can sustain over 600W for a while, when biking, so surely it must be able to sustain over 10A for quite a while. Maybe continuous means for 100s of hours?
3) did you ever find out how to increase the current beyond 15A?
4) I was told something about modifying the shunt resistor might do it, but I would need more info about this. I'm not going to do something like this until I understand the ramifications.
4) can you recommend good resources for hacking the controller, are there s/w means of doing this?
5) or is it best to just change the controller?

Thanks
Roger
 
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