LeMond Dutch e-bike: battery range and tires

[Chibbie]

Wasn’t sure exactly where to post this since there isn’t a dedicated Lemond forum. Anyway, hoping for some input:

I bought a Vintage Electric Cafe bike a few months ago and really enjoy it. I wanted to get a second e-bike both just ‘cause, but also because, due to some pre-arthritis in one hip and sciatica on the opposite side, I wanted to have a step-thru bike available for days when either condition flares up.

So: I bought a LeMond Dutch both for the step-thru design and light weight. Here are my questions:

1. The LeMond has the Mahle system, which can be interfaced with via the MySmartBike app. Among other things, the app shows the estimated range. The advertised range for the LeMond Dutch is 40-70 miles at 100% charge; the app shows an estimated range of only 28 miles at 100% charge (screenshot attached), which is *way* below even the low end of the advertised figures. I contacted LeMond and they said not to worry about it, and the app is inaccurate. That’s not very comforting: I have no way of knowing whether that’s actually the case (and certainly won’t be able to methodologically test it to verify before the 14 day return period expires). But even if it is true, it’s still not very comforting: it would be like driving a car with a defective fuel gauge and all of the associated range anxiety. So: anyone with this bike (or with this Mahle/MySmartBike system and app on another bike) have any experience regarding this issue of the range estimated by the app being so far below the advertised range?

2. The Dutch comes with Panaracer tires. Any experience/opinions regarding these? It’s my first time riding on thin slick-looking tires like this: I am used to knobbier and wider tires like the Schwalbe Smart Sam tires on my Vintage Electric bike. I’ve only gone on one test ride on the Dutch so far, but the tires feel less stable and grippy to me, whether because of the rather thin width, lack of knobby grip, or both. But that could be totally psychosomatic on my part: anyone have experience with these tires?

Thanks for any input!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Chibbie,
Not a user of the Mahle X e-bike but riding another brand lightweight e-bike. All of these e-bikes are lightweight because the battery is smallish and the motor is of low power. These broncos are to be used by people who can provide at least 50% pedalling contribution into the ride, or the battery range becomes low. I do not want to discuss so many factors related to the battery range. Just set off for a longer ride with low assistance level and prove it for yourself. (I would start returning home when the battery level reached 55%).

Does Lemond Dutch provide an option for the Range Extender battery? If so, it would help a lot. I am in the position to be able to input far less than 50% of the ride contribution on my lightweight e-bike: that's why I own and use several Range Extenders.

(The range estimates given by Lemond assume there is a strong and healthy rider who uses assistance mostly to counter the headwind or make hill climbing easier. It is a marketing thing).
---------
Panaracer is a very well known and respected brand. Panaracers are used by gravel cyclist who do not want to lose speed on the pavement but also need good traction in more rough terrain. These tyres are lightweight, supple and easy rolling. Trust them. If you replace Panaracers with, say, Schwalbe Smart Sam, your ride would be significantly slowed down, and your range would further drop (been there done that).

 

[Chibbie]

Chibbie,
Not a user of the Mahle X e-bike but riding another brand lightweight e-bike. All of these e-bikes are lightweight because the battery is smallish and the motor is of low power. These broncos are to be used by people who can provide at least 50% pedalling contribution into the ride, or the battery range becomes low. I do not want to discuss so many factors related to the battery range. Just set off for a longer ride with low assistance level and prove it for yourself. (I would start returning home when the battery level reached 55%).

Does Lemond Dutch provide an option for the Range Extender battery? If so, it would help a lot. I am in the position to be able to input far less than 50% of the ride contribution on my lightweight e-bike: that's why I own and use several Range Extenders.

(The range estimates given by Lemond assume there is a strong and healthy rider who uses assistance mostly to counter the headwind or make hill climbing easier. It is a marketing thing).
---------
Panaracer is a very well known and respected brand. Panaracers are used by gravel cyclist who do not want to lose speed on the pavement but also need good traction in more rough terrain. These tyres are lightweight, supple and easy rolling. Trust them. If you replace Panaracers with, say, Schwalbe Smart Sam, your ride would be significantly slowed down, and your range would further drop (been there done that).

Thanks! Very helpful. I did actually also order the range extender for the Dutch; just wanted to make sure that I’ll be getting the range that I should be getting without the extender.

Interestingly, I just took it out for a very short ride; when I got back, the app was now showing a slightly *higher* estimated range (29 miles vs 28) at a slightly *lower* level of charge (95%).

Would welcome others’ input and experiences as well! There’s quite a lot that I like about this bike (and I’ll try to do a brief write-up at some point); but there are a few things that I just want to make sure aren’t going to be dealbreakers for me.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thanks! Very helpful. I did actually also order the range extender for the Dutch; just wanted to make sure that I’ll be getting the range that I should be getting without the extender.

Interestingly, I just took it out for a very short ride; when I got back, the app was now showing a slightly *higher* estimated range (29 miles vs 28) at a slightly *lower* level of charge (95%).

Would welcome others’ input and experiences as well! There’s quite a lot that I like about this bike (and I’ll try to do a brief write-up at some point); but there are a few things that I just want to make sure aren’t going to be dealbreakers for me.

When I was first demo riding my Vado SL, the range looked very promising. That was because it was a leisure ride with a friend at really low speed. Then I bought the e-bike with the Range Extender at the same time. At that time, my lightweight e-bike was restricted to the Euro 25 km/h (which increases the range a lot!) Suffice to say, I could ride for 116 km (72 mi) on the main battery + RE.

Later, the life verified the reality. I started riding much faster (the e-bike got derestricted). Suddenly, my contribution into the ride fell to some 25% (same as on the full power e-bike) and then the range turned out to be really, really short... Recently, I keep Vado SL restricted and I ride at lower assistance for better workout. The range has become longer!

 

[PSm]

Though I can’t speak to the Lemond and Mahle, if it’s similar to the aftermarket EggRider display/controller I use with my Ride1UP Roadster, it adjusts and updates the estimated range AFTER you’ve been riding.

What I mean by that is, based on my power consumption and miles ridden, it continually updates based on your specific usage. It needs to have that data, in order to provide a more useful estimate.

I encourage you to go on rides, adjust assist levels, and see how the estimate changes after extended rides. If I were to guess, the starting estimated range is based on high assist levels (because the computer doesn’t have any data to know differently). Just ride and see how it changes

 

[Chibbie]

Though I can’t speak to the Lemond and Mahle, if it’s similar to the aftermarket EggRider display/controller I use with my Ride1UP Roadster, it adjusts and updates the estimated range AFTER you’ve been riding.

What I mean by that is, based on my power consumption and miles ridden, it continually updates based on your specific usage. It needs to have that data, in order to provide a more useful estimate.

I encourage you to go on rides, adjust assist levels, and see how the estimate changes after extended rides. If I were to guess, the starting estimated range is based on high assist levels (because the computer doesn’t have any data to know differently). Just ride and see how it changes

Interesting! Thanks. That’s very helpful. (Would’ve been nice if LeMond had also explained this to me with this level of detail…). Your description seems to be being borne out by my experience: after initially charging it, it showed 28 miles at 100% charge; after my first very brief ride a couple of days ago, it then showed 29 miles at 95% charge; after a somewhat longer ride today, with assist mostly on Low, often on Off, and occasionally on Medium and High just to get a feel for them, it’s now showing 30 miles at 88% charge.

The only problem is that I can’t really go on an extensive ride to see if this ultimately bears out before I need to decide whether I’m comfortable with it, because LeMond’s return policy is “14 days/no more than 20 miles ridden.”

 

[PSm]

Interesting! Thanks. That’s very helpful. (Would’ve been nice if LeMond had also explained this to me with this level of detail…). Your description seems to be being borne out by my experience: after initially charging it, it showed 28 miles at 100% charge; after my first very brief ride a couple of days ago, it then showed 29 miles at 95% charge; after a somewhat longer ride today, with assist mostly on Low, often on Off, and occasionally on Medium and High just to get a feel for them, it’s now showing 30 miles at 88% charge.

The only problem is that I can’t really go on an extensive ride to see if this ultimately bears out before I need to decide whether I’m comfortable with it, because LeMond’s return policy is “14 days/no more than 20 miles ridden.”

I was really tempted by the Lemond Prolog, really beautiful bikes, almost artwork, but I went in a different direction.

You may be asking too much of the bike and range estimates, since it will vary so much depending on your fitness level, weight, how much assist you use, if you have a lot of hills or flats, and your average speed, among other things.

IMO, bikes like those are meant for riders that often might use low or no assist, and given the light weight might worry less about range.

If it was me during a trial period, I’d keep the motor off, and go for some rides without power. See how that goes, and see if you might worry less.

But man, those bikes are pretty.

p.s. - when on internal battery only, my e-bike (not your brand) will show ~25 miles at power on when full, and if I use full assist and go full speed, I’ll get 20-25 miles. If I use mid level assist, I’ll get 30-40 miles. And the longest I’ve gone is 60+ miles, if using a lot of motor off and low assist riding. YRMV!

 

[mschwett]

would love to see some pictures! have never seen a prolog or dutch in real life, which made me believe they were vaporware or something.

 

[Chibbie]

would love to see some pictures! have never seen a prolog or dutch in real life, which made me believe they were vaporware or something.

Picture attached. Best I was able to do right now: I carried it downstairs last night.

(And one of the main things I like about it is that I can easily carry it up and down the stairs very easily/without it being a major upper-body workout. Even easier with one of these: https://walnutstudiolo.com/collecti...oducts/bicycle-frame-handle-the-little-lifter. I do have one; I just took it off to clean the bike.)

One thing I do not like is the motor noise. I can’t tell if it’s the pitch or if it’s the actual volume, but it is definitely louder than the motor in my Vintage Electric Cafe. The Cafe’s motor is inaudible to me over road noise at Level 1 and unobtrusive at Level 2. It’s only at Level 3 and above that it becomes obtrusive. But even then, it’s a somewhat lower pitch that is less annoying (in the sense that if I have to hear motor noise at all, the lower pitch is less annoying to me). The motor noise on the Dutch is clearly noticeable even on Low and becomes obtrusive on Medium and High. If you’ve ever heard a Tesla sedan going by, the motor on the Dutch has exactly the same “computer motor” pitch as that (don’t know how else to describe it). It’s obviously not as loud as a Tesla, of course; but exact same pitch and quality. (A Tesla drove past me this morning while I was out for a walk, and I was like “Wow: that sounds exactly the same as the motor on the Dutch!”)

As a hypothetical: does anyone know whether it would be possible to swap out the Mahle X35 that’s on the Dutch for the newer Mahle X20? Not that I myself would attempt to do so even if it can be done: I lack the skills for that. I’m just wondering whether it’s even possible to have it done professionally.

 

[Chibbie]

Also, I should add: so far, I’ve really only mentioned the things about the Dutch I’m less than thrilled about or have concerns about. I haven’t yet mentioned all the other things I *do* like about it; there are many! She sure is pretty! And lightweight. And provides enough assist for the kind of riding I’d do on it. And I like the “operating system:” the one button/lack of a display was a bit off-putting at first, but it takes only minutes to get used to it, and the simplicity of using it thereafter is appealing. (Don’t like the position of the control button, though). The fenders don’t rattle at all; the rear wheel kickstand is preferable to me than a centrally-mounted one; the brakes work well; the integrated lights (both in brightness and design) strike me as very good).

Will try to do a more detailed write-up when time permits.

 

[m@Robertson]

1. It is the rule, not the exception, that real-world ranges are nothing like what is advertised. If you dig into a lot of specifications you will often see that range estimate was determined with a 130-lb rider (that weight seems to be an unofficial benchmark) riding on the lowest level of assist. It goes without saying the range test was performed with no hills or wind. I think its likely there is a learning period with your app where it will be able to give you a more accurate estimate once you have put some miles on it and it a usage profile calculated based on some experience. If you think on it, there are so many variables involved (your weight being not the least of them) that it simply cannot give an accurate estimate without such experience. Also expect the range number to change as your ride progresses. If for example you have a long descent then you can expect it to increase the stated range... not factoring in you have to go back up that hill on the way back. You need to do some thinking on your real range as the bike cannot figure this out without a pre-planned route tied into that route's geography. Specialized's app may do this.

2. Thin skinwall tires are essentially throwbacks to an earlier time before ebikes. They are by their nature less robust, but then again the Lemond Dutch is only a 27 lb bike which borders on unheard-of for an ebike. Thats a bike that can live with skinny tires like old-school analog bikes that everyone rode once did. At the same time, expect less grip and stability because physics. You are riding like an old-school cyclist which is a major part of the draw of Lemond bikes. If your rim width supports it, and you can fit them between your forks and stays, you may want to consider bigger tires. But that sort of goes against the philosophy of the Lemond bikes. Just something to think about.

EDIT: Looking at pics of the bike on the Lemond site, I think its extremely unlikely you can go up to a larger sized tire casing. The tires look sized to fit just within the room available with only enough extra space to account for normal use.

 

[Chibbie]

1. It is the rule, not the exception, that real-world ranges are nothing like what is advertised. If you dig into a lot of specifications you will often see that range estimate was determined with a 130-lb rider (that weight seems to be an unofficial benchmark) riding on the lowest level of assist. It goes without saying the range test was performed with no hills or wind. I think its likely there is a learning period with your app where it will be able to give you a more accurate estimate once you have put some miles on it and it a usage profile calculated based on some experience. If you think on it, there are so many variables involved (your weight being not the least of them) that it simply cannot give an accurate estimate without such experience. Also expect the range number to change as your ride progresses. If for example you have a long descent then you can expect it to increase the stated range... not factoring in you have to go back up that hill on the way back. You need to do some thinking on your real range as the bike cannot figure this out without a pre-planned route tied into that route's geography. Specialized's app may do this.

2. Thin skinwall tires are essentially throwbacks to an earlier time before ebikes. They are by their nature less robust, but then again the Lemond Dutch is only a 27 lb bike which borders on unheard-of for an ebike. Thats a bike that can live with skinny tires like old-school analog bikes that everyone rode once did. At the same time, expect less grip and stability because physics. You are riding like an old-school cyclist which is a major part of the draw of Lemond bikes. If your rim width supports it, and you can fit them between your forks and stays, you may want to consider bigger tires. But that sort of goes against the philosophy of the Lemond bikes. Just something to think about.

EDIT: Looking at pics of the bike on the Lemond site, I think its extremely unlikely you can go up to a larger sized tire casing. The tires look sized to fit just within the room available with only enough extra space to account for normal use.

Thanks! I was going to ask about tire options. LeMond’s website says it comes with “700 x 38” tires but you can go up to “700 x 44.” https://lemondbicycles.zendesk.com/...Q.tN0wqqV40Oj9LpML09ImwKqLNXbfF7XUsh1_dDNrfHM. Here are the problems with that:

1. I don’t really know what that means. I know it represents units of measurement, but I don’t know how to translate them to all of the various measurement conventions that various tire manufacturers use. Schwalbe, for example, which are the only other tires I have any experience with, sometimes uses the 700 x ___ convention on its website, and sometimes not.

2. Even if I could figure out what 700 x 44 translates to in all the different measuring conventions used by various manufacturers, I still wouldn’t know which tires would achieve my goals because I’m a newbie. My goals are (a) maximum grip; (b) maximum puncture resistance; (c) maximum stability. I am far less concerned with squeezing out every last inch of range via tire choice or with road noise and rolling resistance, except so as to avoid extreme manifestations of these. I absolutely agree that I would not be riding the Dutch at high speeds, taking right corners fast, riding off road, etc: I have the Vintage Electric Cafe with Smart Sam tires for when I want to do any of that. But even for my use case for the Dutch - riding on city roads and *maybe* on well maintained bike paths through a city park - I’d really like some more stability, security, and grip.

Any specific suggestions of other (wider and/or thicker and/or with more tread?) tires that I could use while staying within the maximum “700 x 44” size? To the extent it matters, I weigh 170 lbs.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Use the ETRTO convention that is beyond any doubt. And Schwalbe gladly uses that convention.
The Panaracers you have are 38-622. 38 mm is the tyre width, and 622 mm is the rim diameter (same as 700c or 28/29").
Lemond tells you the maximum size of the tyres for your Dutch is 44-622.

Now: 38-622 and 42-622 are the most popular "gravel" tyre sizes. For instance, Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 42-622 are sought for (fast rolling, supple, durable), only these are not necessarily easily available.

I recommend you stick to Panaracers, an excellent brand. Why should you look for a unicorn if you already own it?! Many of my gravel cycling buddies are just enchanted with Panaracers!

 

[Chibbie]

Use the ETRTO convention that is beyond any doubt. And Schwalbe gladly uses that convention.
The Panaracers you have are 38-622. 38 mm is the tyre width, and 622 mm is the rim diameter (same as 700c or 28/29").
Lemond tells you the maximum size of the tyres for your Dutch is 44-622.

Now: 38-622 and 42-622 are the most popular "gravel" tyre sizes. For instance, Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 42-622 are sought for (fast rolling, supple, durable), only these are not necessarily easily available.

I recommend you stick to Panaracers, an excellent brand. Why should you look for a unicorn if you already own it?! Many of my gravel cycling buddies are just enchanted with Panaracers!

Thanks. I recently learned about the ETRTO convention and emailed LeMond asking them if they could provide ETRTO sizes for tires that will fit. They didn’t respond yet.

I will definitely think about just sticking with the panaracers. But I am not myself enchanted with them; they feel less stable and have less grip than the other tires I’m used to. The former could definitely be due to “user error;” that is, still adapting my riding still to the upright position and Dutch-style handlebars. But there’s no question that they have less grip and stopping power than my other tires. I tested it, by bringing both bikes to a simulated 12-15 mph panic stop on an empty flat dry stretch of pavement. The Schwalbe Smart Sams on the Cafe basically stopped on a dime: I skidded 6-12 inches at most. The Panaracers on the Dutch skidded a solid 3-4 feet before I could get the bike to fully stop. And I used the same braking technique, because I only know one braking technique: both hands simultaneously.

(I know, I know: “if you weren’t riding the Dutch at such a speed and stopping it in a manner in which it’s not meant to be operated, that wouldn’t have happened.” And I agree. But I wanted to test the capabilities of the brakes and tires, because what could still very well happen in real life is that I encounter a sudden unexpected obstacle at 12-15 mph (which really isn’t that fast if traveling in a straight line): a tree branch suddenly falls, a little yippy dog or a small child runs across my path, I come upon a pothole I couldn’t see until I got closer, etc.)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

You are forgetting a vital thing:

• Your Cafe is a powerful e-bike and tolerates far higher rolling resistance of Smart Sams than the Dutch
• Panaracers are far more lightweight than Smart Sams.

Greg Lemond is not a stupid man.

 

[Chibbie]

You are forgetting a vital thing:

• Your Cafe is a powerful e-bike and tolerates far higher rolling resistance of Smart Sams than the Dutch
• Panaracers are far more lightweight than Smart Sams.

But that doesn’t necessarily make them the best choice for me. I’m not saying they’re not; I’d just like to hear any ideas from others about possible alternatives.

 

[m@Robertson]

Somebody needs to suitably memorialize the occasion as @Stefan Mikes and I agree on this. Panaracer tires have a decided cycling heritage behind them. Chances are pretty good that they are an extremely good tire and good fit for that bike. Don't be like me. I am a tire whore and I struggle mightily to stop myself from lusting after some different tread or compound, and go off and buy a set to try out. I have a disgustingly large stack of lightly used tires in my workshop as a result.

ETRTO is easy... the 'small' number is the casing width, and is a simple millimeter measurement. The big number is the rim bead seat diameter, again in millimeters. 700C and 29er rims (and also "28 inch") have a big number of 622. The small number is exactly the same as is used with old-school tire measurements, so 700x38 yields a 38-622 ETRTO. 44-622 is the max for your bike and it is equivalent to a 700x44. Since 44mm is also 1.73", you MAY be able to use a tire marked as 29x1.75 ... or 28x1.75 (the Germans like to call 700C 28" and no I do not know why). The Continental Terra Speed is a good XC gravel tire but Conti lists it as both a 40-622 ... and a 28" rim size. The Schwalbe Marathon Pro is sold in a 28x1.75" size, but if you dig a little its ETRTO is 47-622. Do a conversion and thats 1.85", not 1.75 (I bought one to try out and it did not fit within the stays on my Luna Fixed). This is why you want to use ETRTO for tire sizing and forget about everything else.

But even so nothing is perfect in this world, even ETRTO. Continental tires are almost typical in their being smaller than their rated casing width, although in my experience after being inflated for a month or so they expand and get *almost* up to their rated size.

Performance Bike has the PathFinder Pro in 42 width in stock.

Specialized Pathfinder Pro Tubeless Gravel Tire (Black) (700c) (42mm)

Specialized Pathfinder Pro Tubeless Gravel Tire Description: Born in the American Midwest, gravel riding is one of the fastest-growing styles of... 00019-4413

www.performancebike.com

 

[Chibbie]

Somebody needs to suitably memorialize the occasion as @Stefan Mikes and I agree on this. Panaracer tires have a decided cycling heritage behind them. Chances are pretty good that they are an extremely good tire and good fit for that bike. Don't be like me. I am a tire whore and I struggle mightily to stop myself from lusting after some different tread or compound, and go off and buy a set to try out. I have a disgustingly large stack of lightly used tires in my workshop as a result.

ETRTO is easy... the 'small' number is the casing width, and is a simple millimeter measurement. The big number is the rim bead seat diameter, again in millimeters. 700C and 29er rims (and also "28 inch") have a big number of 622. The small number is exactly the same as is used with old-school tire measurements, so 700x38 yields a 38-622 ETRTO. 44-622 is the max for your bike and it is equivalent to a 700x44. Since 44mm is also 1.73", you MAY be able to use a tire marked as 29x1.75 ... or 28x1.75 (the Germans like to call 700C 28" and no I do not know why). The Continental Terra Speed is a good XC gravel tire but Conti lists it as both a 40-622 ... and a 28" rim size. The Schwalbe Marathon Pro is sold in a 28x1.75" size, but if you dig a little its ETRTO is 47-622. Do a conversion and thats 1.85", not 1.75 (I bought one to try out and it did not fit within the stays on my Luna Fixed). This is why you want to use ETRTO for tire sizing and forget about everything else.

But even so nothing is perfect in this world, even ETRTO. Continental tires are almost typical in their being smaller than their rated casing width, although in my experience after being inflated for a month or so they expand and get *almost* up to their rated size.

Performance Bike has the PathFinder Pro in 42 width in stock.

Specialized Pathfinder Pro Tubeless Gravel Tire (Black) (700c) (42mm)

Specialized Pathfinder Pro Tubeless Gravel Tire Description: Born in the American Midwest, gravel riding is one of the fastest-growing styles of... 00019-4413

www.performancebike.com

Thanks! Very helpful. I will try to avoid jumping the gun in terms of switching tires.

Thanks also for the link to the Specialized tires. They appear to be only offered tubeless, though. I’ve read enough to know that there are various pros and cons of tubeless tires; yet I’m also aware that, as a newbie, I don’t yet know enough to actually assess those pros and cons. (The LeMond website says the rims on the Dutch are “tubeless ready.” But while I take that to mean I could indeed have tubeless tires mounted on it, I do not yet feel I know enough to know whether I want tubeless tires.)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thanks also for the link to the Specialized tires. They appear to be only offered tubeless, though.

Easy. The fact some tyres are marked as "tubeless" does not mean you cannot use the inner tube (that is, these tyres offer the tubeless capability, too). I actually ride Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 with inner tubes.

ETRTO is easy... the 'small' number is the casing width, and is a simple millimeter measurement. The big number is the rim bead seat diameter, again in millimeters. 700C and 29er rims (and also "28 inch") have a big number of 622. The small number is exactly the same as is used with old-school tire measurements, so 700x38 yields a 38-622 ETRTO. 44-622 is the max for your bike and it is equivalent to a 700x44. Since 44mm is also 1.73", you MAY be able to use a tire marked as 29x1.75 ... or 28x1.75 (the Germans like to call 700C 28" and no I do not know why). The Continental Terra Speed is a good XC gravel tire but Conti lists it as both a 40-622 ... and a 28" rim size. The Schwalbe Marathon Pro is sold in a 28x1.75" size, but if you dig a little its ETRTO is 47-622. Do a conversion and thats 1.85", not 1.75 (I bought one to try out and it did not fit within the stays on my Luna Fixed). This is why you want to use ETRTO for tire sizing and forget about everything else.

There's been a lot of confusion with wheel/tyre sizes; that's why ETRTO standard was developed:

• 28" wheel is a 622 mm one for tyres of width below 2". Example: 25-622 (road bike tyre 28x1") or 47-622 (trekking tyre 28x1.75") are both 28" ones.
• 29" wheel is a 622 mm one for tyres of 2" and up. Example: 50-622 is 29x2" and 60-622 is 29x2.35".
  
  Both 28 and 29" tyres have the rim diameter of 622 mm only 29" wheels are taller because of greater tyre width. A big confusion!
  
  
• 700c wheel means a 622 mm wheel (French system). However, 700x40c is just a nominal size, and the actual casing width could be below or above 40 mm.

As the Inch or French systems are so confusing, ETRTO is the only system giving the precise information on the tyre size. ETRTO size is always moulded on the tyre sidewall.
-------------
A fun fact:
Schwalbe makes some tyres in size 37-622.
Specialized makes similar tyres in size 38-622.
Both are 28x1.40". Only the Specialized tyre is by 1 mm wider

 

[m@Robertson]

Thanks also for the link to the Specialized tires. They appear to be only offered tubeless, though. I’ve read enough to know that there are various pros and cons of tubeless tires; yet I’m also aware that, as a newbie, I don’t yet know enough to actually assess those pros and cons. (The LeMond website says the rims on the Dutch are “tubeless ready.” But while I take that to mean I could indeed have tubeless tires mounted on it, I do not yet feel I know enough to know whether I want tubeless tires.)

As @Stefan Mikes noted, tubeless tires are also perfectly interchangeable with tubed setups. Tubeless-ready tires and tubeless-ready rims are the same thing as "tubeless" and you probably will seldom see anything but "tubeless ready" in a sales ad as they mean the same thing. There is no such thing as a tubeless-only rim like there was many moons ago when there were clincher rims for tubed tires and "tubular" rims for sew-ups and the two were not remotely interchangeable.

But compatible does not mean identical. You can expect a tubeless-ready tire to be a little different in a couple of key ways. First of all... stuff that doesn't matter so much with regard to installation: The tires will always have higher tpi counts and will always have folding beads.

Now for what matters: A tubeless tire holds air in because it sits *tight* (air-tight) on the rim at the rim's base - the sealant just plugs any teeny gaps but its the tightness of the tire to the rim that does the real work. Expect a tubed tire to potentially be a lot easier to seat on a rim than a tubeless tire as a result. Further, the difference may not be in the tire. Tubeless-ready rims may be the things that are built out just a hair (my Surly MYOBD rims are a tragic example of this; being the most difficult rim to seat any tire on that I or my LBS has ever encountered). Tubeless-ready rims in particular will almost always have a depressed center channel to aid in what is often a much more difficult process - difficult but do-able if you know what to do and almost impossible if you don't (the MYOBD tubeless-ready rims don't have a center channel which is why I say 'almost always').

The link below is tee'd up to the wheel installation section of the article on bike assembly. You'll have to scroll down just a bit more to the subsection on "Mount The Tires and Tubes". The chatty fellow in the video I linked there will do the impossible in real time as you watch. This is the hard way to do it as he uses no tools. But its also doing the impossible right before your very eyes... and its only impossible if you don't know the small tricks he is taking advantage of.

How To Build An Ebike From Scratch: Assembly Day 1

The first day of assembly is laid out here item by item. By end of day we’ll have a roller we can sit on and push around, not a box of parts we have to carry.

talesontwowheels.com

My lazy but foolproof way to save my aging hands and grip strength is to use these tools:

Tool Pack - Cushcore

Save on the Ultimate Tire Installation tool Combo! - The CushCore Bead Dropper and Bead Bro

cushcore.com

Buying the pair from the manufacturer will save you about US$25 over what Amazon charges for the pair. The only essential item is the painfully-named "Bead Bro". You can use a simple Pedros lever with it if you like but that lever they sell is really VERY nice... better than any of the Park metal levers or anything like the Pedros plastic ones.