Lectric XP

[Bxg]

BTW does the motor apply breaks after 45 kph/28 mph or is it free wheel after that?

No brake, each PAS level limits the motor to a specified Mph. I dont know if its a current limit or Mph. It tries to maintain that limit. But if it goes over, it just cuts out and it's all you. in practice, when you help the motor, I think it maybe uses less current and will go a little faster per PAS level than if you dont help (but only like 2-3 Mph). but I'm not sure of the actual mechanics. The amount of effort you put in, doesn't seem to significantly improve your speed, but I think (hope) it improves the range.

Here's an example you can try at home. pedal along in PAS 2 at say 14.5 Mph in gear 5. then bump it down to PAS 1 and it will feel like the brakes come on, bit its just the motor not helping any more until you get to say 8 Mph when it kicks back in. Shift down to gear 3 and Bob's yer uncle. i guess you could call that inertial braking

 

[RobK]

No brake, each PAS level limits the motor to a specified Mph. I dont know if its a current limit or Mph. It tries to maintain that limit. But if it goes over, it just cuts out and it's all you. in practice, when you help the motor, I think it maybe uses less current and will go a little faster per PAS level than if you dont help (but only like 2-3 Mph). but I'm not sure of the actual mechanics. The amount of effort you put in, doesn't seem to significantly improve your speed, but I think (hope) it improves the range.

Here's an example you can try at home. pedal along in PAS 2 at say 14.5 Mph in gear 5. then bump it down to PAS 1 and it will feel like the brakes come on, bit its just the motor not helping any more until you get to say 8 Mph when it kicks back in. Shift down to gear 3 and Bob's yer uncle. i guess you could call that inertial braking

I don't have the bike yet so I can't try anything.
It is easy to check if it is current or speed limiter but it can also be volts and this is little harder.
You can play with the value in P6 to find out if its speed limiter and I think its single magnet in motor itself -P7
Hovtech posted all stock values and it looks like current is limited at 18 amps.-P14
I would not play with that without checking the controller 1st plus I think its set to motor max: 48v x 18 amp = 864 watts

 

[Bxg]

I don't have the bike yet so I can't try anything.
It is easy to check if it is current or speed limiter but it can also be volts and this is little harder.
You can play with the value in P6 to find out if its current or speed limiter

Okay, you got me thinking, so I went out and did some experiments. On PAS 1, I pedaled without actually helping the bike and it topped out around 8.8 mph @1amp. when I started pedaling to help the bike the speed went up but the current stayed the same until I reached 14 miles an hour where it went to zero. So was it helping me? I want to think it was because it didn't seem that hard to get up to 14 miles an hour.

On PAS 2 freepedaling, I hit 12.8 mph @3amps. When I started to really pedal the speed went up and the amps went down until I reached about 17 miles an hour @1amp. I couldn't get it to go to zero.

So I want to think it's giving me more assist than I gave it credit for.

 

[Darceman]

Hi everyone,,off topic a little bit..just wanted to give another shout out to Lectric! I had a minor issue and contacted them today. Less than 4 hours later Christian answered back with the information I had enquired about. Under the circumstances with them being as busy as they are I thought that was pretty darn good and frankly reassuring..

 

[RobK]

Okay, you got me thinking, so I went out and did some experiments. On PAS 1, I pedaled without actually helping the bike and it topped out around 8.8 mph @1amp. when I started pedaling to help the bike the speed went up but the current stayed the same until I reached 14 miles an hour where it went to zero. So was it helping me? I want to think it was because it didn't seem that hard to get up to 14 miles an hour.

On PAS 2 freepedaling, I hit 12.8 mph @3amps. When I started to really pedal the speed went up and the amps went down until I reached about 17 miles an hour @1amp. I couldn't get it to go to zero.

So I want to think it's giving me more assist than I gave it credit for.

Could there be a sensor in the motor that tells the motor to increase speed when chain puts force on motor?
Can't be a cadence sensor because you not increasing cadence with 11t in the back

 

[Hutchentoot]

Hi everyone,,off topic a little bit..just wanted to give another shout out to Lectric! I had a minor issue and contacted them today. Less than 4 hours later Christian answered back with the information I had enquired about. Under the circumstances with them being as busy as they are I thought that was pretty darn good and frankly reassuring..

Knock it off. You're slowing them down from shipping my bike! JK...

 

[damonjohn]

Knock it off. You're slowing them down from shipping my bike! JK...

You funny.

But yeah, Darceman is out of control and we need to unite against him.

 

[Darceman]

Knock it off. You're slowing them down from shipping my bike! JK...

I

You funny.

But yeah, Darceman is out of control and we need to unite against him.

Only cause I'm inside, it's raining and I'm not riding my XP...guess I'll go look at it

 

[Bxg]

Could there be a sensor in the motor that tells the motor to increase speed when chain puts force on motor?
Can't be a cadence sensor because you not increasing cadence with 11t in the back

No, that's called a torque sensor and they only come on high end ebikes usually with mid drives. Ours is a cadence sensor. Magnets around the crank with a sensor. Just like a cycle computer uses but with more magnets.

You can see it right here:

Smarter people than me can chime in if you know how this all works together.

 

[Hutchentoot]

No, that's called a torque sensor and they only come on high end ebikes usually with mid drives. Ours is a cadence sensor. Magnets around the crank with a sensor. Just like a cycle computer uses but with more magnets.

You can see it right here: View attachment 38315

Smarter people than me can chime in if you know how this all works together.

Did the red arrow come with the bike? It looks bent. Think you could use the derailer to straighten it?

 

[Darceman]

Did the red arrow come with the bike? It looks bent. Think you could use the derailer to straighten it?

I think your out of control LOL

 

[damonjohn]

Did the red arrow come with the bike? It looks bent. Think you could use the derailer to straighten it?

Don't mess with the Notorious Bxg if you know what's good for you.

 

[Hutchentoot]

Don't mess with the Notorious Bxg if you know what's good for you.

But seriously folks, I'll be here all night....

 

[Kimbo]

Here is another new video that's good for us that are being rained out or for those that don't have their bikes yet. I think there are more videos for the XP than any other bike except for the Rad Rover bikes.

 

[Bxg]

Did the red arrow come with the bike? It looks bent. Think you could use the derailer to straighten it?

Hey! I don't come to McDonalds and make fun of you.

 

[phoenixtoohot]

Here is another new video that's good for us that are being rained out or for those that don't have their bikes yet. I think there are more videos for the XP than any other bike except for the Rad Rover bikes.

Nice video ... this is why we like e-bikes !

 

[pretor]

I see now that stock 52t chainring and 14-28t freewheel will have hard time to get to 28 mph .
This combination in bike calculator gives me:
22mph at 90 rpm ( cranks per min. )
14.7 mph at 60 rpm ( average cyclists cadence )
23.7 at 97 rpm ( KC max cadence )
To get to 28.1 mph you would have to crank at 115 rpm

KevCentral said in his review that after changing freewheel to 11t cog it got him to 27.9mph but that was his max.
I put 48t ( his chainring ) / 11t combo in calculator and it gives me:
27.9 mph at 97 rpm ( cranking like crazy )
25.9 mph at 90 rpm
23.9 mph at 83 rpm ( KC all day speed )
17.3 mph at 60 rpm

Upgrading just freewheel to 11-28t with 52t stock chainring in bike calculator looks like this:
18.7 mph at 60 rpm
28.1 mph at 90 rpm
30.3 mph at 97 rpm

I want to feel that I do some of the work all the way from 1 to 28 mph so I looked at different chainring on Amazon.
60t was the biggest I could find.
In calculator 60t chainring and 11t cog will get the bike to:
21.6 mph at 60 rpm
32.3 mph at 90 rpm
34.9 mph at 97 rpm

I know I will upgrade freewheel to 11-28t , I already ordered it but I have to wait for bike to known if I will upgrade chainring or not.

All measurements based on 22.2" wheel

Excellent information.

 

[pretor]

Label created for order #3033. Happy wife... Scheduled delivery Sep 19. Fingers crossed.

 

[eBike supporter]

Yesterday I received my bike, order #3997 (I didnt even had fedex label!!). I ordered a black XP but received a white one instead. I was disappointed but it looked better than black so decided to keep it anyway. It didnt have any deraileur or rattling issue. After initial checklist, I put on the suspension seat post. I tilted the bike and throttled it to check the motor. Wow, motor was extremely silent and wheel was rotating like crazy fast. I got excited to try it out on road so I put it on charge. Waited patiently for hours for it to charge. When the light turned blue it was ready. I took the bike outside for a ride. Then my phone rang. It was not a call but my morning alarm, I opened my eyes and saw my XP fading away. I hate my phone. So here I am sitting in my office with a sad heart with a order #3997 and probably a month more of wait time.

Have a good day!

 

[Lakelubber]

I have a u-lock as well which is 9" but since I only leave the bike to run into a store I find that a good cable lock is easier to use and gives me many more options to secure the bike. Since there is no front tire quick release I usually just go through the rear tire and the frame before I lock to something. My lock is 6' long and 1/2" thick and uses a regular Schlage 5 pin key which is known to be a little more resistant to lock picking. I also get rid of the seat quick release and install a bolt to try and make the seat/seatpost harder to steal. I've never had a bike or seat stolen, I just try to make it more difficult to grab than the bike beside me and never leave it for more than a few minutes, most thieves are too lazy to work hard and just grab whatever is easiest! (I hope...)

I needed a little more security, here’s my combination: