Here’s an explanation on how the PAS works on our bikes:
The basic cadence sensor uses a magnet on the crank. It turns the motor ON when you start pedaling and turns it OFF when you stop pedaling. Essentially, it works like a switch. To control the boost level and speed, you must adjust the assist mode manually up and down. The advantage of this system is that it is an inexpensive way to get a form of pedal assists on the bike. The disadvantage is that the pedal assistance can sometimes feel jerky, laggy and counterintuitive. Also, if you want to pedal faster than the motor is spinning, the motor will actively work against your efforts.
Compared to the torque sensor system, the cadence sensor will just provide the assist based purely on the level assist you have selected and it will not increase or decrease the assist based on your actual pedal power. You could be pedaling very lightly or very hard and it will provide the same level of assist.
If you are in PAS 0 it’s like every bike you’ve ever ridden, manually pedaling and shifting through 7 gears.
If you are in PAS 1-5, it’s unlike every bike you’ve ever ridden.
It takes some getting used to. But I love it. I’ve been riding bikes, all kinds, for about 50 years now and this is the most fun I’ve ever had…on a bike.
You have got to think of it like this;
When in PAS 0, it’s a manually operated bike.
When in PAS 1-5, you do not have to pedal at all, just use the right hand throttle to drive the bike, and do not pedal.
Or - you can use Pedal Assist 1-5 to drive the bike, but now you do have to pedal, but at a slow and steady pace.
When using Pedal Assist, think of your left hand on the control button as your throttle, but now you have 1-5 preset speeds, as long as you are pedaling at a slow and steady rate. PAS 1 is the slowest speed and PAS 5 is the highest. It doesn’t really matter how fast you are pedaling. The bike uses the cadence sensor to sense your movement.
Just start off in PAS 1 and use whatever manual gear 1-7, lets you pedal at a slow and steady pace, for the terrain you are currently on.
After a few revolutions of the pedals the motor will kick in, depending on the sensitivity setting in the P11 menu, and the strength in the P12 menu.
It will immediately propel you faster as you continue to pedal the same slow and steady rate, you do not have to pedal faster to go faster, the motor does that. You can always manually shift the gears to pedal faster if you want, for exercising, but you do not have to.
It will start to feel weird as you are pedaling at the same rate but the motor is now propelling you faster. It will start to feel like your pedaling isn’t doing anything, like you’re freewheeling it.
If you want to go faster, don’t pedal faster, move up to PAS 2 and you will immediately go faster, despite pedaling at the same slow and steady rate, as you were with PAS 1. If you want to go still faster, again, do not pedal any more, just move up to PAS 3 and you will go faster at the same pedal rate. Continue of course to PAS 4 and 5 to go faster and faster, at the same pedal rate. And drop back through to PAS 1 to slow down. I’ve gotten to 28 mph this way on level ground, with never pedaling faster than I was at PAS 1 level when I started.
It feels unlike anything I’ve ever ridden and does take some getting used to.
Just like your right hand is on the throttle in full auto mode, think of your left hand, on the menu up/down button, as your throttle when using PAS mode. But instead of a continuous manual throttle, you will have 5 levels of preset speeds while using PAS, and can always go to PAS 0 for manual mode and to turn the motor off.
As soon as you stop pedaling, the motor turns off, so you can coast to slow down, and/or if you use the brakes the motor turns off of course.
Then just start pedaling again and the motor will kick in, if in PAS 1-5, and/or use the throttle to manually take off and have fun! I find myself frequently using the throttle to manually ‘take off’ and get started, then start pedaling. What a cool bike, I love it.
!
