Last two questions before I pull out my wallet.

[DouglasB]

I'm looking at two Cannondale Contra-e Speed bikes at a reputable, local dealer for $6,075 out the door for both. It appears to be an exceptional deal from everyting I am reading here. It hits all the marks for me. I'm looking for a good all around class 3 bike for commuting, goofing off and leveling the hills. My questions are: 1. The battery is a 500 watt, 13 amp, 36 Volts. 48 volts seems to be more the norm. Is there any problem with the fact that it is 36 volts and not 48 or 52? 2. The wheels are 26" X 2.15 and feel great on the road but are quick release (not through axel quick release). I know through axels are more and more considered the way to go but is there any reason not to get an Ebike with quick release hubs? I's not like we are going to be stump jumping. We'll mostly be doing paved roads, some in town errands and possibly a logging road on rare occasion. I know these bikes aren't made for off road. 99% of our use would be on pavement but with the wider tires it would be tempting to hit some gravel.

 

[Alaskan]

I'm looking at two Cannondale Contra-e Speed bikes at a reputable, local dealer for $6,075 out the door for both. It appears to be an exceptional deal from everyting I am reading here. It hits all the marks for me. I'm looking for a good all around class 3 bike for commuting, goofing off and leveling the hills. My questions are: 1. The battery is a 500 watt, 13 amp, 36 Volts. 48 volts seems to be more the norm. Is there any problem with the fact that it is 36 volts and not 48 or 52? 2. The wheels are 26" X 2.15 and feel great on the road but are quick release (not through axel quick release). I know through axels are more and more considered the way to go but is there any reason not to get an Ebike with quick release hubs? I's not like we are going to be stump jumping. We'll mostly be doing paved roads, some in town errands and possibly a logging road on rare occasion. I know these bikes aren't made for off road. 99% of our use would be on pavement but with the wider tires it would be tempting to hit some gravel.

Those look like very nice bikes for what you are doing. I ride a bike with the Bosch High Speed drive and find the battery more than adequate. I live in a hilly area and have no problem with that setup. The only issue with quick release axles is they make your wheels easy to steal. For the kind of road riding you describe, I think you Contra-Es will meet your needs just fine and quite affordably. One can always nit pick higher grade brakes, derailleurs etc. but, for the money, I think you are getting two fine bikes that will put a smile on your faces. Have fun and please post a report after they arrive and you have had a chance to ride them.

 

[DouglasB]

I'm not as concerned about the quick release hubs as much as I am about the battery? I know what I'm getting into with the quick release, as far as theft and an ever so slightly, less rigid wheel mounting system (compared to throught axels). They could actually be an advantage, allowing you to pop off your wheels for transport or tire changing. It's just that I'm an idiot when it come to anything electrical. What has me stumped is the difference between 36, 48 and 52 volt batteries. I tried reading around on the site but I still can't figure out whether the fact that it is 36 V is worth worrying about? It seems that the stadard these days it 48 V. Thanks for your encourging reply Alaskan. Tomorrow, if the creek don't rise and my wife likes them, we'll be bring them home. It's supposed to rain tomorrow, crap.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

I'm not as concerned about the quick release hubs as much as I am about the battery? I know what I'm getting into with the quick release, as far as theft and an ever so slightly, less rigid wheel mounting system (compared to throught axels). They could actually be an advantage, allowing you to pop off your wheels for transport or tire changing. It's just that I'm an idiot when it come to anything electrical. What has me stumped is the difference between 36, 48 and 52 volt batteries. I tried reading around on the site but I still can't figure out whether the fact that it is 36 V is worth worrying about? It seems that the stadard these days it 48 V. Thanks for your encourging reply Alaskan. Tomorrow, if the creek don't rise and my wife likes them, we'll be bring them home. It's supposed to rain tomorrow, crap.

That is a great choice! excellent bike.

2018 Contra-E are on sale for $2999. You would be able to get one from your local dealer.
https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/cannondale-contro-e-speed-277932-1.htm

For that kind of money, it is a great bike. Just make sure it comes with the 500Whr battery. If you know how to use the gearing on the bike efficiently, 36V is more than enough.
48V will certainly have more oomph but Bosch offers a solid system that is proven. They have long lasting support and their products work very well.

 

[Alaskan]

48 volts is more desirable in the context of a rear hub motor which does not leverage the bike's transmission and various gear ratios for improved torque, especially climbing hills. Your center drive system, uses less wattage to help you along, accomplishing this with a lower wattage motor and a lower voltage battery. Some feel that center/crank dive motors put stress on the bike parts. They do more so than human power alone, but in over 5000 miles this past year with Bosch drive systems, I have had no chain issues, nothing has broken down.

You'll get endless discussion here about the relative merits of hub versus center drive e-assist. Each has its merits. Hub motors generally deliver more power, and speed on flat ground and do not require you to pedal. The also will get you home if the chain breaks If there remains sufficient battery. Center drives seem to be preferred by long distance trekkers, people in hilly areas, and those more concerned with fitness. These are generalizations and not true in all cases.

 

[DouglasB]

Thanks again for your feedback. I have sorted out all the information on hub verses mid drives and am settled on the merrits of the mid drive for my use. It's just the 36 volt 48 volt 52 volt thing with the battery that I'm hung up on. I have gathered so far is that the higher voltage is more effecient and less apt to overheat and I think the higher voltage might also give better range. Again I'm a little slow when it comes to electrical but I'm seeing very few 36 volt batteries and wondering if this is a concern or just a minor transition to slightly more effecient batteries? I don't want to end up with a bike that was on sale because the old technology was substantialy inferior. Mostly, with this bike, I think the reason it was on sale is because the design, for what ever reason, wasn't selling, more than any "old technology issues". I know there is no "perfect Ebike". I simply want to eliminate any unknowns and understand what I'm in for. A lot of fun? ?

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

I don't want to end up with a bike that was on sale because the old technology was substantialy inferior.

Its just like purchasing an Apple phone. you are buying into the whole Apple ecosystem. iMessage, iPhoto, etc. You can't transfer files from an computer (similarly, you can't plug in other batteries into a Bosch bike)
But Bosch is really good with supporting their products and their technology is pretty good. You get 2 years of solid warranty, local support, a really nice bike
Have fun!

 

[JRA]

"when it comes to electrical but I'm seeing very few 36 volt batteries"

Actually all the EU bike brands as well as Trek, Spec, Cannondale etc. converted to US spec from Bosch, Shimano, Yamaha, Brose etc use 36v batteries. I guess you would call them the "major manufacturers" preferred voltage. This is due in part to the 250w law that is so nebulous as it gets stretched out by everyone because even with a 36v/10A controller it would be 360w to start with, so for US spec they just up the A some and the motors seem to handle that just fine.

The Asian based US spec to start with bikes are mostly 48v as 48v/15A is common and provide 720w which is in adherence to the 750w maximum here. But those are just base numbers and both can run a bit higher in bursts and all can be run at 250w. Confusing? Yes. But is any one better than the other? It does depend on what type of performance you are after as a higher voltage will provide more zip up to speed but at the expense of using more wh/mi.

That said the bike looks fine for your needs. And if it is backed by good local service all the better.

 

[indianajo]

36 v should be okay for mid-drive bike. You have torque multiplication available in your sprocket system. The Main disadvantage to mid-drive IMHO, is that except for the Yamaha, you can't pedal them home if the motor or internal chain (or gear) fails. Tow truck time, or a friend with a pickup. I pedal my direct drive hub all the time; I only use the battery when the wind is over 11 mph or the trip is longer than 25 miles.
Quick release axles can be converted to through bolt. After seeing a couple of frames chained to poles the day after Ky Derby missing wheel and seat, my suspicions were confirmed. My bodaboda left came with a quick release on both. I stuck a 10-32 x 5 1/2" screw through the front axle, fastened with an elastic stop nut. Haven't had to retighten it yet, one year and about 2000 miles on the clock. Screw & nut come from Mcmaster.com. There are probably other ways to do it.

 

[DouglasB]

Thanks people. That's what I needed to hear. Looks like we'll be picking up some new bikes tomorrow. Can't wait.

 

[Johnny]

I'm looking at two Cannondale Contra-e Speed bikes at a reputable, local dealer for $6,075 out the door for both. It appears to be an exceptional deal from everyting I am reading here. It hits all the marks for me. I'm looking for a good all around class 3 bike for commuting, goofing off and leveling the hills. My questions are: 1. The battery is a 500 watt, 13 amp, 36 Volts. 48 volts seems to be more the norm. Is there any problem with the fact that it is 36 volts and not 48 or 52? 2. The wheels are 26" X 2.15 and feel great on the road but are quick release (not through axel quick release). I know through axels are more and more considered the way to go but is there any reason not to get an Ebike with quick release hubs? I's not like we are going to be stump jumping. We'll mostly be doing paved roads, some in town errands and possibly a logging road on rare occasion. I know these bikes aren't made for off road. 99% of our use would be on pavement but with the wider tires it would be tempting to hit some gravel.

Bosch system is designed around 36v input but that is not something you should be worrying about. Bosch is a high quality system and you will like it.

Technically the higher the V the lower losses due to resistances. But again that is not something you should think about since there are many other things that affect system efficiency and these motors are outputting around 350W so the efficiency gain by going 48v+ is not significant.

Enjoy your new ride.

 

[Ebiker01]

A straight foward answer would be
36v - as in a sedan car with 125-200hp
48v- 275-350hp
A 72v is the Porsche sports car of e bikes.
And mo’ weight you and your luggage has the less faster and slower the bike will go.
So higher voltage diminishes this variables from slowing you down. Car drivers hate slow bikes in their lanes or near them. So move fast with a fast bike.
.
Why aren’t any regular street legal e bikes
with 72volts ? Not sure...

 

[Feliz]

There's a legal voltage limit, its 60 something volts. I believe it needs a permit after that, its to prevent electrocutions due to a human body being 500 ohms and is a pretty good conductor to higher voltages.

All things being equal higher voltage and ah are better but all things are rarely all equal.

 

[DouglasB]

36 v should be okay for mid-drive bike. You have torque multiplication available in your sprocket system. The Main disadvantage to mid-drive IMHO, is that except for the Yamaha, you can't pedal them home if the motor or internal chain (or gear) fails. Tow truck time, or a friend with a pickup. I pedal my direct drive hub all the time; I only use the battery when the wind is over 11 mph or the trip is longer than 25 miles.
Quick release axles can be converted to through bolt. After seeing a couple of frames chained to poles the day after Ky Derby missing wheel and seat, my suspicions were confirmed. My bodaboda left came with a quick release on both. I stuck a 10-32 x 5 1/2" screw through the front axle, fastened with an elastic stop nut. Haven't had to retighten it yet, one year and about 2000 miles on the clock. Screw & nut come from Mcmaster.com. There are probably other ways to do it.

Feliz, I'm curious if you found the Skewers on your Ebike to be sturdier than those on a standard bicycle?

 

[JoePah]

Ditto to what Avi said.

A 36v 13 Ah battery is marginal these days;;; 5 years ago it was standard..I wouldnt buy it.

You want the 500 Wh battery for two reasons.. Adequate range when it's cold, and surplus range for aging.. You'd like to run for 5 years before replacing these batteries, which are $$$.

I think the 24 inch tires are great..better acceleration with a smaller tire, and it will be more stable at lower speed. You might be able to find Motorcycle tires that are a slip on replacement, making it a truly urban toughie!

That bike model is 2 or 3 years old.. You might want to find out what the battery build date is, should be labeled on the battery.. Batteries age 5-10% per year, even if they are not being used.

 

[DouglasB]

I think you are looking at a different bike. The Contro-e Speed has 26" wheels and a 500 Watt battery. https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=66dd9b23-b0b1-4d6f-ba6e-d0b30aa5a306

 

[JoePah]

I think you are looking at a different bike. The Contro-e Speed has 26" wheels and a 500 Watt battery. https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=66dd9b23-b0b1-4d6f-ba6e-d0b30aa5a306

oh.. I thought the bike you were buying was a 36v 13 Ah bike...

If you can get the Contro e Speed out the door for $6000 for 2 bikes, seems like a great deal!

 

[DouglasB]

The battery is 500 Wh, 36 V, 13 A. It seems to be adequate. The bike gets up to speed easily (class 3) and hauled me up the stepest hill in town, in the second of four power assist modes. It would have gone up in the "eco" mode as well but I didn't want to work that hard.