AliExpress has a poor english search engine and it takes time to identify things using their pictures.
I spent dozens of hours trying to join AliExpress and trying to find what I wanted.
The pictures were usually the best way to try and figure out what you're actually getting, but even then there were issues.
I noticed that the KT controller dimensions were usually showing the dimensions of the box, but some were including the mounting tabs on the end of the box as well.
I did find out some basic information though,..
The KT controller boxes are all standard sizes. The smallest one is 15 amps and has 4 mosfets inside (I think?), then they improved the efficiency of the mosfets and the same KT controller box is now 17 amps.
The next size up went from 20 amps to 22 amps.
Now there are controllers with the same amp rating but a different number of mosfets depending on which mosfets are used.
EDIT: The number of mosfets are 6, 9, 12, and 15. Multiples of 3 for each of the three phase wires.
A dual mode controller means that it will work with both 36 volt and 48 volt batteries (and I think that they added 52 volt now too?)
My battery is 48 volt, and I ran it down once until the controller cut out, so I turned it off and back on again to try and make it home.
(I was running on fumes.
)
After the third reset, my display thought that I had a 36 volt battery and the battery indicator showed full charge.
All hub motors are basically the same with 3 heavy gauge phase wires, 3 smaller gauge hal sensor wires with colors matching the phase wires, positive and negative +5 volts wires to power the hal sensors (usually black and red), and a speed sensor wire (usually white) which is also a hal sensor running off the same +5 volts.
Some Extremely Rare hub motors have an additional motor temperature wire.
Interestingly, the KT display is switchable to show either the ambient air temperature or the motor temperature, but there is no connection for a motor temperature wire.
If you do want to connect a motor temperature wire, you have to install the temperature sensor inside your motor, then string the wire all the way up to and inside the KT display, and solder it onto the circuit board at the appropriate place which isn't labeled or possibly isn't even on the circuit board.
Switching the display to "motor temperature" might not switch it to anything at all.
Any hub motor will run off square wave or sinewave. A square wave controller is more efficient, but all that extra efficiency is lost and wasted as heat and noise in the motor.
The noise itself can be hard on the motor because it vibrates and knocks at the motor which can eventually knock the glued magnets free inside the motor. It's hard on the bearings and everything inside the motor especially with the added heat that the motor has to deal with.
A sine wave controller is a lot nicer to your motor, but it isn't as efficient as square wave, so it wastes more power and gets hotter.
I personally would rather have the waste and inefficiency in the controller because it's a lot cheaper and easier to replace the controller than the hub motor.
A sine wave controller is only a few dollars more than the equivalent square wave controller.
Always end up with a bunch of useless cables in any project.
I've got lots of spare cables and connectors and almost a dozen throttles, but I don't consider them useless at all.
I consider it stocking up on supplies, so I can always make a connector/cable without having to wait for delivery.
Women like to collect shoes and purses.
I like to collect ebike parts and pieces.
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