Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

For the price you are paying for this ebike, you can't expect a better derailleur to come on it from the factory. Try the SRAM X5. Faster shifting, and better over all design for a reasonable price. Be sure to change to the SRAM shifters as well.
I Understand that, and went with Rad Power Bikes because they offer the best balance of price, and quality for my needs. With the upgrades and modifications I've made, I feel my Radwagon is now just as good as a Yuba, or Extracycle, yet still less than half the price.

I replaced it with a Shimano Deore. I actually like the shifter because it allows one to drop to first in one shift.
 
My April/May 2016 vintage RadRover (600 miles) has developed a quirk. On occasion (not always) if I make a steep descent at a fairly high speed (30+ mph) quickly followed by a steep ascent the PAS does not kick in at the appropriate speed (nor does the hand throttle work). Once I come to a complete stop and restart, all is well. It's almost like the controller cuts out power assist due to the high speed (as it should) but fails to recognize I have slowed back down - sounds somewhat similar to the problem MrGold described with his controller. It's livable for now (maybe it's always been that way and I failed to hit the right conditions?) and I am hoping it doesn't worsen. I don't want to replace the controller as I am a big fan of speed based PAS and have little interest in the new power based PAS.
 
My April/May 2016 vintage RadRover (600 miles) has developed a quirk. On occasion (not always) if I make a steep descent at a fairly high speed (30+ mph) quickly followed by a steep ascent the PAS does not kick in at the appropriate speed (nor does the hand throttle work). Once I come to a complete stop and restart, all is well. It's almost like the controller cuts out power assist due to the high speed (as it should) but fails to recognize I have slowed back down - sounds somewhat similar to the problem MrGold described with his controller. It's livable for now (maybe it's always been that way and I failed to hit the right conditions?) and I am hoping it doesn't worsen. I don't want to replace the controller as I am a big fan of speed based PAS and have little interest in the new power based PAS.

I would have to pause my peddling for 2-4 seconds and my motor would engage after that when I had the old speed based controller. Once I hit the mph cut off and watts hit 000, it would start all over again. Radrover did suggest raising the motor cutoff speed to 40 km/hr (around 24.8 mph) to keep the motor engage longer on the downhill runs. I didn't like this solution long term because the Radrover's gearing is only made for around 22-23 mph max.
 
I would have to pause my peddling for 2-4 seconds and my motor would engage after that when I had the old speed based controller. Once I hit the mph cut off and watts hit 000, it would start all over again. Radrover did suggest raising the motor cutoff speed to 40 km/hr (around 24.8 mph) to keep the motor engage longer on the downhill runs. I didn't like this solution long term because the Radrover's gearing is only made for around 22-23 mph max.
Interesting. I haven't tried to wait to begin pedaling until the speed is below the PAS cutoff. I'll see if that makes a difference. I already have the cutoff speed maxed out (we have some fast dogs around here - that is my escape method). This whole thing is more of an annoyance than a fatal flaw at his point - unless it gets worse. I appreciate your reply and active participation on this board.
 
I am at 5000 miles and the Radwagon is shot. Can't go 100 mile without something going wrong. Not sure why my shiftier cable breaks all the time, tires have mystery flats, spokes break and bend..... I am out of money trying to keep up.
I don't carry heavy cargo, I don't jump curbs ever, I take it in for regular maintenance.

It is so difficult getting accurate measurements from Rad Power Bikes I never end up getting right gear the correct sizes.
My LBS says I need new everything.

I am currently collecting links to items that are known to fit the Radwagon. I am basically replacing everything.
If everyone could throw me a link to quality items that they can confirm fit the Radwagon... please help! Amazon links preferred.
I would like to make one massive order and have my LBS cobble it together.
I prefer colorful items blue, purple, orange, rainbow.
Need shifting system front and back, cassette, derailleurs front and back, pedals, crankset ..... what else?
need to keep it cheap but must be quality.... quality most.
ASAP! Need to get a price quote to my sugar mama!
 
I am at 5000 miles and the Radwagon is shot. Can't go 100 mile without something going wrong. Not sure why my shiftier cable breaks all the time, tires have mystery flats, spokes break and bend..... I am out of money trying to keep up.
I don't carry heavy cargo, I don't jump curbs ever, I take it in for regular maintenance.

It is so difficult getting accurate measurements from Rad Power Bikes I never end up getting right gear the correct sizes.
My LBS says I need new everything.

I am currently collecting links to items that are known to fit the Radwagon. I am basically replacing everything.
If everyone could throw me a link to quality items that they can confirm fit the Radwagon... please help! Amazon links preferred.
I would like to make one massive order and have my LBS cobble it together.
I prefer colorful items blue, purple, orange, rainbow.
Need shifting system front and back, cassette, derailleurs front and back, pedals, crankset ..... what else?
need to keep it cheap but must be quality.... quality most.
ASAP! Need to get a price quote to my sugar mama!
Wow, that's insane!
On the whole, it sounds like "bikey" issues and not ebike issues? Anyone really into biking would do well to have a complete set of decent bike tools and a willingness to get down into it. Amost everypossible issue has an associated youtube video on how to adjust/fix/repair/replace. Every single bike component is available at whatever quality level you wish to buy. Just takes a little research on forums and internet. As long as the frame is not cracked any other item can be fixed in minutes.

I would posit that perhaps you need a different bike shop? But really, a set of tools and a "I can fix this!" attitude may yield the most satisfying results.
 
I Understand that, and went with Rad Power Bikes because they offer the best balance of price, and quality for my needs. With the upgrades and modifications I've made, I feel my Radwagon is now just as good as a Yuba, or Extracycle, yet still less than half the price.

I replaced it with a Shimano Deore. I actually like the shifter because it allows one to drop to first in one shift.
What was the size? Can you add a link?
Wow, that's insane!
On the whole, it sounds like "bikey" issues and not ebike issues? Anyone really into biking would do well to have a complete set of decent bike tools and a willingness to get down into it. Amost everypossible issue has an associated youtube video on how to adjust/fix/repair/replace. Every single bike component is available at whatever quality level you wish to buy. Just takes a little research on forums and internet. As long as the frame is not cracked any other item can be fixed in minutes.

I would posit that perhaps you need a different bike shop? But really, a set of tools and a "I can fix this!" attitude may yield the most satisfying results.
I've actually taken it to several different shops. I don't work on my bike myself because I have a health condition. It is nearly impossible to work on the radwagon by oneself due to its size. Removing and replacing the rear wheel is a two-man job. I have seen several people try to do it by themselves and they get very very angry.
 
One of the last tools I bought, and it should have been done a while ago, was a Park Tools Bike work stand. Worth it's weight in steel. ( :) )With a wagon, I would get the deluxe model to hold it.
 
Sounds like the heart of the ebike (hub motor, controller, battery, wiring harness, and LCD screen) seem to be A-OK? What is the possibility of transferring the ebike components to another more robust non-ebike to convert? I don't know how different the Radrover differs from the Radwagon other than the fat tires and front suspension as I rack up the mileage? I figured the battery or hub motor would die before any major mechanical bike parts would?
 
I have a hard time with the bike being "shot". A component or two, but what, specifically, is wrong with each component? The crankset?
What was the size? Can you add a link?

I've actually taken it to several different shops. I don't work on my bike myself because I have a health condition. It is nearly impossible to work on the radwagon by oneself due to its size. Removing and replacing the rear wheel is a two-man job. I have seen several people try to do it by themselves and they get very very angry.

Missing teeth on a cassette? The shifting system? The shifters can be bought on ebay for 20 bucks a set or so. As far as the cable breaking, it sounds like it is rubbing somewhere, look near the break area to see where. Derailleurs are available everywhere, and upgrade to Deore is only about $30 or $40. Pedals? Just pick your flavor and buy. Tires and flats are no mystery, happens all the time to everyone, especially if you have goat heads in your area.
This is the beauty of buying a Rad Product, all the components are off the shelf, not specific to to Rad at all. If it were an expensive boutique bike, you would be at the mercy for many of the components at the whim of the brand.
 
To be specific- I have 120 staples in my left lung which was glued in place with acid. I am unable to lift more than 40 lbs. Because of the weight of the bike and the physical contortions required to access the mechanics- It is impossible for me to do any work on the bike other than general cleaning and upgrades without enduring considerable amounts of discomfort.
Additionally, whenever I have had to get a new component for my Radwagon it has been a special order, sometimes because of sizing and sometimes because I am looking for an item that is not regularly kept in stock. Spokes have been the biggest issue but I think I have a source now.
 
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To be specific- I have 120 staples in my left lung which was glued in place with acid. I am unable to lift more than 40 lbs. Because of the weight of the bike and the physical contortions required to access the mechanics- It is impossible for me to do any work on the bike other than general cleaning and upgrades without enduring considerable amounts of discomfort.
Ouch, hope you are better soon.
 
Good news! My LBS says they can overhaul it all with things they have in stock.
Switching out front shifting components for better quality (cables keep breaking, has never shifted smoothly through all gears)-
Replacing worn cassette-
Replacing worn drive chain (takes 2 chains)-
Replacing pedals (trashed)-
Possible upgrade of bottom bracket if necessary-
Complete tune up-


So far the only mystery is why I am going through so many spokes.
I am currently waiting for some Sapim spokes for my rear wheel.
I am hoping this will solve the issue.

Hopefully this with solve my shifting issues which I have had since I got the bike.
The rear tire might be repairable. I really like the feel of that balloon tire and am hoping I can keep it.
The Radwagon it a rough ride. Reminds me of my old Jeep Wrangler. Having that balloon tire seemed to take the edge off some of the bumps.
 
Interesting. I haven't tried to wait to begin pedaling until the speed is below the PAS cutoff. I'll see if that makes a difference. I already have the cutoff speed maxed out (we have some fast dogs around here - that is my escape method). This whole thing is more of an annoyance than a fatal flaw at his point - unless it gets worse. I appreciate your reply and active participation on this board.

I have a 4 month old Radwagon or rather two of them and they both do the same thing. When we go down the bridge we hit 25 to 27 MPH. The motors on both bike will not kick back in until we slow to around 15.5 MPH, then everything work again and we accelerate back up to just under 20 MPH. I need to try increasing the cutoff speed I guess.
 
I have a 4 month old Radwagon or rather two of them and they both do the same thing. When we go down the bridge we hit 25 to 27 MPH. The motors on both bike will not kick back in until we slow to around 15.5 MPH, then everything work again and we accelerate back up to just under 20 MPH. I need to try increasing the cutoff speed I guess.

The newer Radwagons have different firmware than mine. my understanding is they are meant to cut out once they get you to speed. Not sure how mine works but it stays on although it still seems to maintain a max assist at about 20MPH.

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND not taking the Radwagon at speeds over 23-25 miles an hour. In short, the bike was not built for that speed. Due to the weight and size, there is already a considerable amount of stress on the parts. A catastrophic failure is more likely at higher speeds and if the motor is still engaged (lets say a front tire failure) all of that energy has to go somewhere. I get it up to 29 MPH at the bottom of a few hills daily and have tried to test out a rapid stop. It is harrowing.

If you do plan on uping your max speed (which can be done with some hardware modifications and will void your warranty as well as make you eligible for a citation depending on your local laws) , you may want to switch out the quick release on the front tire. My LBS says there is a chance of the wheel coming off at high speeds when breaking. They adjust my front break to be a little soft in order to prevent this. Not sure what he said to do instead, lock nuts I think.

I also dream of going faster, just a little, just sometimes. I wish the throttle was independent and was more like a super booster. Same deal with the assist but the throttle gets you up to 30 with gusto. That would be awesome!
 
The newer Radwagons have different firmware than mine. my understanding is they are meant to cut out once they get you to speed. Not sure how mine works but it stays on although it still seems to maintain a max assist at about 20MPH.

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND not taking the Radwagon at speeds over 23-25 miles an hour. In short, the bike was not built for that speed. Due to the weight and size, there is already a considerable amount of stress on the parts. A catastrophic failure is more likely at higher speeds and if the motor is still engaged (lets say a front tire failure) all of that energy has to go somewhere. I get it up to 29 MPH at the bottom of a few hills daily and have tried to test out a rapid stop. It is harrowing.

If you do plan on uping your max speed (which can be done with some hardware modifications and will void your warranty as well as make you eligible for a citation depending on your local laws) , you may want to switch out the quick release on the front tire. My LBS says there is a chance of the wheel coming off at high speeds when breaking. They adjust my front break to be a little soft in order to prevent this. Not sure what he said to do instead, lock nuts I think.

I also dream of going faster, just a little, just sometimes. I wish the throttle was independent and was more like a super booster. Same deal with the assist but the throttle gets you up to 30 with gusto. That would be awesome!

Thanks for the advise! I've sent an email to Rad describing the issue and I'm waiting for a response now. The bike's motor drives the bike up to 20 mph so I'm not sure about coasting 5 to 7 MPH above that is all that bad, but I understand what you are saying. I'll let you know what Rad responds with.
 
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