Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

That would sturdy things up for sure! 6'1" here as well. Now that I know about the potential for failure there, will likely be keeping a much closer eye on it.
 
Special shout out to Jung from Rad tech support! He was amazing in helping to resolve an issue where my bike would not power up (fell off a bike carrier, luckily front was stuck, so rear was dragged for a couple of minutes at 40-50 mph). Luckily had a working bike so Jung patiently had me go through all the possible solutions. Started first with all the connectors, no luck. Finally turned out to be the display (figured it out by bringing the working and non-working bikes close and doing a cable swap) and a new one is one the way.

First ride into work, grinning all the way, especially up the hills!

Love, love, love it!

So how often should I have the mechanicals tuned up?

Also, does the regeneration happen while coasting downhill or must the brake be applied? Wish there was an option where regen takes place without braking so I don't wear out the pads.

Thrilled to be part of this community, people jumped in right away to try and offer solutions.

Software suggestion for future display version- integrated power so I can see how many watts I put out pedaling versus the battery so I can make sure I am burning enough calories and don't get lazy. Should be easy to implement.
 
RE: tune ups, I'd say annually, or when something doesn't look or feel right.

Re: regen, it comes on when a switch in the brake lever housing tells it you are applying brakes. The trick to using regen, without actually applying the brakes, is to have enough slack in the cable so you can pull the brake lever a little prior to it actually engaging.
 
My Radrover with 1500 miles (bought in 2016) keeps giving a code 30 maintain error and power shuts off. I have carefully check all connections (twice). Since I’m out of warranty, is the bike just junk now?
 
Jim, yes. The bike is junk. Just send it to me and I'll take care of it's disposal for you!
I'm kidding, obviously.

This is kind of a tough one. The mileage will likely have nothing to do with the fact it's got an electrical issue. They are random, but as the bike ages, it's potential for stuff like this increases. Have you determined, for sure, that this is not a battery or charger issue by measuring the battery voltage when it throws that code and turns off? That would be step one here. You want to make sure something isn't going on there (in the battery) that's causing the controller to shut the system down to prevent low voltage damage.
 
My Radrover with 1500 miles (bought in 2016) keeps giving a code 30 maintain error and power shuts off. I have carefully check all connections (twice). Since I’m out of warranty, is the bike just junk now?
I started getting code 30s after taking my bike back out after last winter. They were intermittent. For me the errors were stopped by cleaning the battery contacts, on the battery and on the bike, and squirting a little dielectric grease on the contacts. Then I put the battery in, took it out, repeatedly several times.

Rad's advice is to take all the electrical connections apart, clean them and put them back together. I don't know if they recommend dielectric grease, but IMO it's never a bad idea.

Good luck.

TT
 
Thanks for the advice. I did go through the electrical connection steps (twice). I was hoping that would clear it up, but it didn’t. Rad Rover support suggested I disconnect each of the connectors one at a time and see if the code clears, but it didn’t clear. They suggested I buy a new controller and wire harness, which I just did. Hope that clears it up. Sometimes these types of electrical gremlins can be aggravating.
 
Use a toothbrush to clean all of the male connectors and get some dielectric grease at any hardware store. An invisible amount of oxidation could be the problem. Sometimes just taking things apart and putting them back together will work and sometimes it's something like a bad controller or wire harness, but cleaning and greasing things can be an almost instant fix and it's almost free. In my experience cleaning things solves about 80% of problems like this. Dielectric grease is pretty much like miracle juice for electrical connectors.

TT
 
The dielectric grease suggestion is a good one, especially in the coastal areas of Florida. With new harnes and controller in hand, no better time to get that done that when replacing those!
 
My Radrover with 1500 miles (bought in 2016) keeps giving a code 30 maintain error and power shuts off. I have carefully check all connections (twice). Since I’m out of warranty, is the bike just junk now?

My 2018 Radcity just reached 1500 mi / 18 mos and I have the same problem as you had. Checked all connections and they were fine. I have no throttle, no PAS (red led not lit), no headlight either. All LCD display functions work until it times out. Did you get yours fixed ? If so do you know if it was the controller or the wiring harness. Thanks
 
My 2018 Radcity just reached 1500 mi / 18 mos and I have the same problem as you had. Checked all connections and they were fine. I have no throttle, no PAS (red led not lit), no headlight either. All LCD display functions work until it times out. Did you get yours fixed ? If so do you know if it was the controller or the wiring harness. Thanks
dielectric grease is great. There is one connection you want to push on the top to set it at the bottom. You don't want to pull on the bottom first are is a pain. Also put it where the battery plugs in and check the battery with a volt meter to see what it is. I live in Florida have had to ride in the rain too. It Is a 2019 with a little over 2000 miles. You could open up the controller the one by the down by the fender and blow it out with caned air too.
 
I have two 2016 Radrovers since Sept/2016 with about 1000 miles each. First issue I've had was related to shipping and one of the Rovers with minor damage like:
- bent rear derailleur causing the chain to rub the rear tire in 3 lower gears (bent back in alignment)
- damage to pedal crank and it fell off in the first 10 miles. Only a replacement crank under warranty worked.
- minor stuff like re-torquing nuts/bolts/screws, adjusting brakes, adjusting derailleur (constantly), and tightening spokes

I later developed and issue on the same RR with the shipping damage with the controller hitting the power cut-off and watts show 000 and the power wouldn't re-engage when you mph slow down below the cut off speed. I had to pause my peddling for 2-4 seconds before it would restart the motor. New controller under warranty resolved this issue.

The same Radrover (with shipping damage) battery stopped charging after 200 miles (it would power the bike and discharge properly). Replaced under warranty.

The second Radrover shipping box was in very good condition. I assumed both were shipped at the same time side-by-side because they arrived on the same delivery truck. A thicker box with extra padding would help solve warranty issues as you ship further across the country (WA to NM).

The second Radrover developed a controller issue (30 maintain error) around the 500 mile mark. It started only at start-up 1-3 times in a row; but, wouldn't occur for the rest of the ride (6-30 mile rides). A few months later, the 30 maintain error would occur in the middle of the ride and shut down +10 times a ride. Rad Power Bikes sent me a new controller, wiring harness, and controller under warranty to resolve the issue. Installed all 3 and got the same 30 maintain error every single time I engaged the PAS. Put the old controller back on the RR to trouble-shoot and that worked and zero errors after +350 miles.

I have to commend Rad Power Bikes on their responsiveness and customer service. Never an issues trouble-shooting with them and shipping of replacement parts. I worry about how much $$ it might cost to keep the Radrover running out of warranty. I might convert to a mid-drive depending on the cost of replacement parts.
I bought a Rad Rover in August of 2019, and it arrived with minor damage. The derailleur guard was bent (very easy to fix), and the indexed shifter was one speed OFF. It said "2" when it was in "1", and said "7" when it was in "6". I qwas in contact with Rad Power (very helpful) when I had an accident (run over by a Harley-Davidson, of all things!) and the bike was totaled. I had found the shipping packaging about as good as could be, but there are going to be some problems shipping anythingthat big and complicated.

Right now I am awaiting arrival of a new Radmini4. I will let everyone know how it arrives next week.
 
I bought a Rad Rover in August of 2019, and it arrived with minor damage. The derailleur guard was bent (very easy to fix), and the indexed shifter was one speed OFF. It said "2" when it was in "1", and said "7" when it was in "6". I qwas in contact with Rad Power (very helpful) when I had an accident (run over by a Harley-Davidson, of all things!) and the bike was totaled. I had found the shipping packaging about as good as could be, but there are going to be some problems shipping anythingthat big and complicated.

Right now I am awaiting arrival of a new Radmini4. I will let everyone know how it arrives next week.
I have had the Radmini4 now for about a week and a half. Only minor problems. Handlebars were not set straight, and the bolts that hold them on were MUCH TOO TIGHT. Rad instructions give specific torque values, but my experience with 2 Rad bikes is that whoever assembles them DOES NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH and badly over-tightens many. I had to use a miniature "breaker bar" on the wrench to get these two bolts loose enough to straighten the bars! I did have a similar problem with my former Rover. The other problem was a "whining" front wheel, and a call to Rad resulted in oiling a rubber "washer/sleeve" on the wheel. It worked, but I would have NEVER found that out by myself.
 
I am experiencing a loud metallic "pop" when I put a medium amount of downward pressure on a pedal, especially the left pedal, for some reason. I replaced the original pedals, as one had gone bad.......and the "pop" seems to be more frequent. The noise seems to be coming somewhere near the front crank area. I cant make it happen on the bike stand, due to the amount of downward pressure needed. I have nearly 1400 miles on a 2019 Rad Rover, with some hard, desert riding on it. Chain has been cleaned and lubed twice, since acquiring.

Is that what a chain that needs replacing will do?

I have tightened all hex head bolts on the front crank, as well as the rear axle nuts. None were loose. Derailleur adjusted, as are the brakes. No out of roundness observed in the rear wheel.

What's inside where the crank passes through the frame? I assume some type of bearing? Can that go south? I am rather surprised that there seems to be nothing that visibly provides protection from the elements in that area.
 
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Loose crank bolt?
 
I bought an EU RadMini 4 a week ago. The bike runs up to 24km / h with no problem with the support. It was delivered defective, the engine cracked and struck 25 km / h shortly before the regulating range, up to 24 km / h it ran without problems. I thought it was the circuit but it works fine. I have no idea what to do. The company in the EU in Holland cannot be reached by email, not by phone. I paid money and got broken scrap and no chance of a refund. It's a shame.
Grayson
 
Grayson, have another try at your note. I'm having a tough time understanding what your problem is.

"engine cracked and stuck......" ?
 
The video/audio sounds to me like it may be trying to switch gears. What gear are you pedaling in? Have you tried making tiny adjustments to the derailleur via the thumb screw?

My 2019 Rad City ST had this issue when I first rode it. I had to tweak the derailleur adjustment so it would shift into and stay in the proper gear. It only took a couple of minutes of test riding to do.

RangerDave
 
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