Thanks for this post. I'm having the same problem with the handlebars: Too low. What did you end up doing? Which gear did you buy?So I got my Propella V2.2 (7-speed). I picked mine up pre-assembled from the warehouse in Redmond since I live in Seattle. The guys reminded me that they are not professional bike mechanics and recommended taking it to a pro fro adjustments. It's definitely going to take some adjustments and upgrades to make this as comfortable to ride as my 15 yo, $285 Giant hybrid. The wheels need to be trued (to much wobble). The wiring seems to be installed overly tight to me with some of the wire connections making a hard 90 deg bend that kinks the wire insulation in a way I don't like the look of. The gears and chain make noise in certain gears, shifter needs tuning. It's my first time with disk brakes, so I don't know if its normal for them to be sort of slow in stopping. I want to have those checked too to make sure they are adjusted properly as I can't easily stop as quickly as I'm used to with my old v-brakes. The peddles feel really small to my feet and they also don't spin freely when you spin them by hand. I also prefer a softer/sticky material for a grip. The grips the V2.2 came with are highly textured stiff plastic that feel to me like gripping corse plastic sandpaper or a floor mat, so I'm looking to replace these too. At the price of the v2.2 I understand that providing low cost peddles, stem, handlebar, and grips are probably a good way to keep the price down and still deliver a really good value on all the other mechanical and frame components - so I am not unhappy with the purchase. At least not yet. I am hoping I can get this bike feeling ergonomically compatible with my body and more comfortable for 15 mile daily commuting without having to spend lots more time and money. As it stands, I am still riding my old trusty Giant because the Propella is just too uncomfortable for any distance with what I am able to adjust, as-is, from the dealer - which is essentially only the seat hieght and saddle angle.
I'm 6'1", and with the seat post raised to a comfortable position for my leg length, the handlebars are positioned at such a distance and angle that the amount of weight on my hands/wrists became really uncomfortable after about 35 minutes of riding. There is no room for more risers on the stem.
I emailed Propella and found that I can use any stem that has a
Tube diameter of 28.5mm (1-1/8”) and,
a Handlebar Diameter of 31.8mm (1-1/4”)
and it will fit the V2.2
I'm looking at either the redshift shockstop 30deg ($120)
or the Wake MTB Stem 31.8 90mm 110mm 0-60 Degree Adjustable Bike Stem ($19)
I guess maybe my feet are large, as the back of my left foot hits the kick-stand mount when peddling if my foot isn't positioned exactly so - I don't like this, it feels dangerous.
I would like to reposition/replace the kickstand but I don't know what options will fit onto this frame.
Anybody have recommendations for the following components that will fit the Propella V2.2:
kickstand
water bottle cage
a frame mountable U-bolt lock
Rear rack
other stems that could provide a somewhat more upright riding position
larger peddles
Thanks!
Known Issues & Problems with Propella Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Thanks for this post. I'm having the same problem with the handlebars: Too low. What did you end up doing? Which gear did you buy?
I got my 3.4 7-Speed a few weeks ago, and I love it. This is my first e-bike and it has already transformed my bike riding habits (taking it out more often and for longer rides). I've always been dreading the hills in my area, but with the pedal assist I'm actually looking forward to them now.
The assembly was straight forward, I ran into a small problem in that the front brake rotor was bent. I emailed Propella and they replied within 5 minutes and shipped a replacement the same day. Excellent customer service!
Here are a few things that I added or changed on the bike:
1. Kinekt seatpost -- ordered this with the bike from Propella, it works great and the ride is so smooth. Which lead me to also buy..
2. Kinekt suspension stem
3. Ergon GP1 handle bars
4. Ortlieb saddle bag Micro Two
5. The Cannondale kickstand that comes with the bike feels lose and is rattling when riding. I will replace it with a MOOI adjustable rear mount kickstand (40mm).
6. Foldylock compact bike lock -- mounted on the lower frame using the threads for a water bottle cage
7. Lixada Bicycle Bottle Cage Adapter Mount for the handle bar -- seemed the best place for a bottle holder
The assembly was straight forward, I ran into a small problem in that the front brake rotor was bent. I emailed Propella and they replied within 5 minutes and shipped a replacement the same day. Excellent customer service!
Here are a few things that I added or changed on the bike:
1. Kinekt seatpost -- ordered this with the bike from Propella, it works great and the ride is so smooth. Which lead me to also buy..
2. Kinekt suspension stem
3. Ergon GP1 handle bars
4. Ortlieb saddle bag Micro Two
5. The Cannondale kickstand that comes with the bike feels lose and is rattling when riding. I will replace it with a MOOI adjustable rear mount kickstand (40mm).
6. Foldylock compact bike lock -- mounted on the lower frame using the threads for a water bottle cage
7. Lixada Bicycle Bottle Cage Adapter Mount for the handle bar -- seemed the best place for a bottle holder
Thanks for all this info, Roger. You sound like me -- right down to the hills now becoming fun, instead of misery. By the way, I had a front rotor problem, too, as soon as I got the bike. Turns out it was warped. Took it to a bike shop, which replaced it. Propella immediately reimbursed the full amount. Right now, I'm asking the company for suggestions as to how to raise the handlebars. I know some forum members have bought certain items, but I want to hear what Propella suggests.
Hi, I’m new here but I’m really glad I found this group. I bought a Propella bike last year (it arrived in October) and I’ve used it a handful of times. Today I went to charge it but there was a problem with the battery and the charger. I had it plugged in awhile and noticed it just wasn’t charging even though the green light was on. Then I unplugged/replugged it (thinking maybe it just wasn’t well connected). But when I plugged the charger back into the battery there was an electric SPARK. The spark was at the junction of the battery and the charger (not the electrical outlet). I did not charge it after that as I didn’t want to damage my bike. Has anyone else had this happen or have any advice? Thank you.
benjaminw
New Member
- Region
- USA
I had this exact thing happen to me as well. Apparently, if you go a long time without using your bike, you’re supposed to still charge the battery periodically or it will become permanently undercharged. I contacted their support team and, because my battery was still under warranty, they sent me a new one. It arrived very quickly and now I’ve been happily bike commuting the 12 miles to and from work once or twice a week since!
Does anyone know what the battery gauge on the control pad *actually* measures? Is it "fuel in tank" or "potential assistance at current level of output?" I've had my Propella about two weeks at this point, and toward the end of some rides when I hit a good hill and up the assistance it shows a sudden and significant reduction on the gauge.
Thanks!
Thanks!
What the display shows is the minimum of
1) battery capacity, based on measurement of used power, or
2) time to battery exhaustion based on recent heavy usage
Lithium ion battery capacity changes depending on how quickly the battery is being discharged. For example, on the graph from battery university, a high rate of discharged (2.0C) results in the battery hitting the lowest usable voltage at 2300 mAh. But if the battery is drained at half that rate (1.0C), then the battery capacity is 2900 mAh. So, if you've used 1250 mAh, the available power is either (2300 -1250)/2300=50%, or (2900-1250)/2900=57%, depending on the rate of power draw. And if you have a low power draw, or if you take long breaks during big climbs, capacity could be 3300 mAh or 62%.
You can visualize this as like 20% of the battery charge being available immediately to a motor. but the the other 80% of the battery power has to drip through a small tube before it can be used. Technically speaking, the first 20% are free electrons on the surface of the battery, and the last 80% require a slow chemical reaction to take place, which takes about three hours until it completes and all power is available. Though not entirely accurate, you can very roughly estimate that charging time of 2.5-3 hours means that the discharge rate is also 2.5-3 hours.
So, if you go up a steep hill that draws a lot of current, the battery gauge correctly indicates that if you keep going at this rate, your battery is going to be exhausted before it is fully drained, and represents that as a lower battery percentage.
What I've noticed on my Propella Pro is that after going up a long, steep hill (San Francisco), the battery will show this lower percentage for like 5-10 minutes of assist over level ground. The software will show the lower of the two values, but capacity % never rises, which is probably the less confusing of their software choices.
1) battery capacity, based on measurement of used power, or
2) time to battery exhaustion based on recent heavy usage
Lithium ion battery capacity changes depending on how quickly the battery is being discharged. For example, on the graph from battery university, a high rate of discharged (2.0C) results in the battery hitting the lowest usable voltage at 2300 mAh. But if the battery is drained at half that rate (1.0C), then the battery capacity is 2900 mAh. So, if you've used 1250 mAh, the available power is either (2300 -1250)/2300=50%, or (2900-1250)/2900=57%, depending on the rate of power draw. And if you have a low power draw, or if you take long breaks during big climbs, capacity could be 3300 mAh or 62%.
You can visualize this as like 20% of the battery charge being available immediately to a motor. but the the other 80% of the battery power has to drip through a small tube before it can be used. Technically speaking, the first 20% are free electrons on the surface of the battery, and the last 80% require a slow chemical reaction to take place, which takes about three hours until it completes and all power is available. Though not entirely accurate, you can very roughly estimate that charging time of 2.5-3 hours means that the discharge rate is also 2.5-3 hours.
So, if you go up a steep hill that draws a lot of current, the battery gauge correctly indicates that if you keep going at this rate, your battery is going to be exhausted before it is fully drained, and represents that as a lower battery percentage.
What I've noticed on my Propella Pro is that after going up a long, steep hill (San Francisco), the battery will show this lower percentage for like 5-10 minutes of assist over level ground. The software will show the lower of the two values, but capacity % never rises, which is probably the less confusing of their software choices.
Hops
New Member
I believe it is measuring potential assistance based on that moment. So a hill is going to drop the theoretical potential battery level with that same surge of use
djguarin92
New Member
- Region
- USA
Here are some issues that I have had with my 3.0 single-speed, and how I fixed them
1. weak brakes; having to pull the lever all the way down to brake weakly. Fix: loosen the cable-fixing bolt on the disk brake so that the brake cable can be pulled in and out, then rotate the apparatus to eat a little more of the cable, then re-tighten. You can also turn the little barrels where your brake lever is, to micro-adjust.
2. seat is loose underneath you. Fix: there are metal teeth that hold the seat in place. They might have debris that prevent them from locking, but usually, over time, they wear down. So, buy a new seat post if these teeth are worn down.
3. inconsistent pedal-assist activation. Fix: hold the "down" button on the button panel where you adjust pedal-assist strength. This activates the "walking mode." For me, the "walking mode" worked perfectly, so I knew that the motor and the connection to the battery were fine. It was the pedal cadence sensor that had broken. I ordered a new one on the Propella website, replaced it, and the problem was fixed.
1. weak brakes; having to pull the lever all the way down to brake weakly. Fix: loosen the cable-fixing bolt on the disk brake so that the brake cable can be pulled in and out, then rotate the apparatus to eat a little more of the cable, then re-tighten. You can also turn the little barrels where your brake lever is, to micro-adjust.
2. seat is loose underneath you. Fix: there are metal teeth that hold the seat in place. They might have debris that prevent them from locking, but usually, over time, they wear down. So, buy a new seat post if these teeth are worn down.
3. inconsistent pedal-assist activation. Fix: hold the "down" button on the button panel where you adjust pedal-assist strength. This activates the "walking mode." For me, the "walking mode" worked perfectly, so I knew that the motor and the connection to the battery were fine. It was the pedal cadence sensor that had broken. I ordered a new one on the Propella website, replaced it, and the problem was fixed.
djguarin92
New Member
- Region
- USA
I have a new issue.
The motor seems to make more noise than it should, and I feel like it vibrates a bit.
I think that the planetary gears inside of it might have broken-off a few little pieces, and these little pieces might be mucking around in there.
I am not sure yet. I will update the thread when I examine it.
One interesting thing, is that it is quite difficult to open the motor, because the screws that hold the case together are glued with threadlocker. So I have ordered a breaker bar to get the strength to open it.
The motor seems to make more noise than it should, and I feel like it vibrates a bit.
I think that the planetary gears inside of it might have broken-off a few little pieces, and these little pieces might be mucking around in there.
I am not sure yet. I will update the thread when I examine it.
One interesting thing, is that it is quite difficult to open the motor, because the screws that hold the case together are glued with threadlocker. So I have ordered a breaker bar to get the strength to open it.
harryS
Well-Known Member
Never seen a Propella, but have seen a lot of phillips screws get stripped. Make sure that you have the right size bit, and consider the use of an impact driver,
.
That's a bit bold, to open a motor on a new bike, I've got thousands of miles on various geared motors, and must say mine are either quite silent or they have a whine. Loose piece noises and rattles...just haven't heard them.
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Was going to tighten the covers on a Bafangthis week, but they use anti-theft hex heads.
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That's a bit bold, to open a motor on a new bike, I've got thousands of miles on various geared motors, and must say mine are either quite silent or they have a whine. Loose piece noises and rattles...just haven't heard them.
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Was going to tighten the covers on a Bafangthis week, but they use anti-theft hex heads.
I'm a newer member of the forum with 2 Propella Pros v2 bikes, just what I was looking for in a lightweight ebike, nice ride, nice build and a pleasure to ride. I don't care much for the matt black paint job, but it's just cosmetic. lol
The issue I bumped into was the brake calipers were all loose after 200 miles. I had to remove the calipers to tighten a plate and then reattach the calipers to the bike. This could be a safety issue so be sure to double check the calipers to ensure they aren't rattling off. Coming down a hill and having an unexpected break failure would suck!
The issue I bumped into was the brake calipers were all loose after 200 miles. I had to remove the calipers to tighten a plate and then reattach the calipers to the bike. This could be a safety issue so be sure to double check the calipers to ensure they aren't rattling off. Coming down a hill and having an unexpected break failure would suck!
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