Hi Purveyor. Sounds like the same problem. I returned it to the vendor (Surge Bikes) who investigated but didn't manage to fix it. Orbea also couldn't solve it so are sending a replacement battery on the assumption that it is a faulty battery. I am hoping it will be fixed in the next couple of days and will provide an update then.
Known Issues & Problems with Orbea Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Purveyor
New Member
Hi AdrianS. Thanks for the update. I'm certain we must have the same fault and that the 90% thing can't just be coincidence. Although a bit worrying your experience so far at least tells me that I am probably waisting my time trying to solve it myself. I assume yours is at least under warranty and hope that the new battery will solve the issue. Look forward to an update soon & Good Luck!
Purveyor
New Member
Hi AdrianS. Any news yet? My bike is booked into local Orbea dealer on Friday.
My 2020 D30 USA has a rattling/knocking sound when I go over some sharp bumps and broken pavement. It sounds like it is coming from the downtube where the battery is. Anyone else have this issue? Also looking at the underneath side of the downtube there is a screw that is not driven all the way in. Because of all the warnings about screws in that area I have not tried driving it all the way in. Thoughts anyone?
Can you check if it's coming from your IWOC controller on the top tube? I have a rattling there when going over bumps and when I hold my hand over the IWOC it stops, there is likely a part of the connection/cable underneath the controller that's tapping the inside of the tube.
James Myres
Member
Just a word on the flashing pink light after fully charging with no error code.
Turned out to be a unbalanced battery error on the dealer app.
But, it was a firmware bug that was just fixed by updating the bike firmware at the Dealer.
See the posts at https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/orbea-gain-charging-issue.35294/#post-302384
Turned out to be a unbalanced battery error on the dealer app.
But, it was a firmware bug that was just fixed by updating the bike firmware at the Dealer.
See the posts at https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/orbea-gain-charging-issue.35294/#post-302384
I keep getting a squeaking sound on my M20i. I thought it was the front wheel but I have narrowed it down to either the rear disc brake or the motor. I think it is the motor. It usually doesn't start until 5-10 miles into my rides. Today I stopped when it was getting really loud and found a piece of zip tie next to the motor so I pushed that more to the side and cut it off when I got home. Still squeaking.
I have loosened the brake caliper and pulled brake lever and re-tightened caliper twice in case it was the brakes. Has anyone else had this problem? Was it the motor? Is there a way to add some lubrication to the motor somewhere? Here is a picture of the zip tie I took off and a link to a video where you can hear the squeaking.
I have loosened the brake caliper and pulled brake lever and re-tightened caliper twice in case it was the brakes. Has anyone else had this problem? Was it the motor? Is there a way to add some lubrication to the motor somewhere? Here is a picture of the zip tie I took off and a link to a video where you can hear the squeaking.
Sorry but the only noise I could notice in your video was when you applied the brakes. As to the zip tie, I had the same on mine and removed it without consequences. I think it was used in shipping??
You can hear it around 5:13..
Thank you ... after all this time I finally fixed it ... first tried the headset and unfortunately that wasn't it. Then then the drove that screen in all the way. Yesterday I happened to notice a second screw holding the plastic cover that the bottom bracket also not screwed in all the way. Drove that screw home and today, no rattle. Somebody at the factory forgot a step, I guess.
Thank you for the idea. I finally solved it, several hundred miles later. The screw near the bottom of the down tube that holds the plastic cover on and also, it appears, secures the battery, which was loose, and after tightening it the rattle disappeared. This was surprising because I was convinced the sound was coming from near the top. So, the bike came with both screws holding the battery only partly driven in. Fortunately no harm done it seems.
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Did you find the cause of the squeaking?
That climb has a nice road and beautiful scenery ... I guessed it was in western US and was curious so went back and looked at the sign at the beginning ... I don't recognize my own state LOL.
Nice! What part of MA are you from? I love riding up Wachusett.
I never really figured out what was causing the squeaking but it did mostly go away. I tried to micro adjust the disc brakes a bunch of times but I think it was the motor that was squeaking and it just got broken in a bit maybe. I don't hear it on the rides anymore. After a ride, when I roll the bike from a stop it would give a quick squeak but that is it.
I actually decided to sell the bike. Prefer my regular rim brake bike and also built a new ebike.
Hi
I have an Orbea gain f30. Its great, but I have noticed that when the battery has less than 15% left on it, the amount of assistance reduces. I wonder if this is some sort of power saving settings i have switched on (albeit without noticing!). Has anyone else noticed this?
Thanks
I have an Orbea gain f30. Its great, but I have noticed that when the battery has less than 15% left on it, the amount of assistance reduces. I wonder if this is some sort of power saving settings i have switched on (albeit without noticing!). Has anyone else noticed this?
Thanks
James Myres
Member
The percentage of power is based on the voltage changes over the time of discharge. Lipos are nominally 3.6 volts or about 36 volts for 10 in series. However, fully charged they are 4.2 volts or 42 volts for 10 in series.
You'll notice that the charger is set to 42 volts and it will stop charging when the battery bank reaches 42 volts. So obviously the voltage is higher at the start and lower at the end.
The motor drive is a brushless motor that is driven by a ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) that switches the power based on the hall effect sensor in the frame near the back wheel with some very small magnets built attached to the cassette so that as you pedal it signals the ESC to switch the power to the poles (3) of the brushless motor and when you do not pedal, the signal is not switched. This is similar to the pedal sensors used on the home made kits for electric bike conversion but it is more elegant.
If the ESC has a constant current driver (doubtful) the power would be the same beginning to end. Usually ESC's for brushless motors are not constant current because the voltage variance from charged to discharged is not that much and ESC's are cheap and easy to get because of RC and Drone developments.
The maximum discharge voltage for a LIPO is 3.2 volts for safety so if a a battery bank drop s from 42 volts to 32 volts you would expect a drop in current to the motor of about 24%.
I cannot confirm that this is all true as I don't know if the ESC and controller in the Gain Bikes is a constant current device or not. However, my experience with ESC's used in both RC Planes and Drones is that the power will drop over time. Usually the first 75% seems fully powered and as it gets nearer to full safe discharge, the power will drop some.
See the Lipo chart attached.
You'll notice that the charger is set to 42 volts and it will stop charging when the battery bank reaches 42 volts. So obviously the voltage is higher at the start and lower at the end.
The motor drive is a brushless motor that is driven by a ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) that switches the power based on the hall effect sensor in the frame near the back wheel with some very small magnets built attached to the cassette so that as you pedal it signals the ESC to switch the power to the poles (3) of the brushless motor and when you do not pedal, the signal is not switched. This is similar to the pedal sensors used on the home made kits for electric bike conversion but it is more elegant.
If the ESC has a constant current driver (doubtful) the power would be the same beginning to end. Usually ESC's for brushless motors are not constant current because the voltage variance from charged to discharged is not that much and ESC's are cheap and easy to get because of RC and Drone developments.
The maximum discharge voltage for a LIPO is 3.2 volts for safety so if a a battery bank drop s from 42 volts to 32 volts you would expect a drop in current to the motor of about 24%.
I cannot confirm that this is all true as I don't know if the ESC and controller in the Gain Bikes is a constant current device or not. However, my experience with ESC's used in both RC Planes and Drones is that the power will drop over time. Usually the first 75% seems fully powered and as it gets nearer to full safe discharge, the power will drop some.
See the Lipo chart attached.
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Wow! You really know your stuff. Thanks for that info. I thought it was maybe the case but just wanted to check there was nothing wrong with the bike. thank you.
James Myres
Member
castanedar1613
New Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Corpus Christi
I bought the extended range battery had it for over six month it was working fine. Then all of sudden the main light started flashing pink . I would turn it off and on and it would work okay. Now when i turn on the battery the manin light turns pink. when I unplug the extendedy battery the pink light stops and clears. Is the problem with the ebike or the extended battery?
The problem is with the extended range battery. I had three replaced before getting the forth one that works. I only hope it continues to work. I have two friends that have had the same issue with their extended range batteries and are waiting for replacements.
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