Known Issues & Problems with Frey Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[troehrkasse]

No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from Frey as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.

 

[seabeast]

OK, I'll go first.

I've been enjoying my Frey AM1000 for over a month now, with maybe 200 miles of riding so far including a mix of trail and road. Super happy with the bike overall. It has totally transformed the mountain biking experience for me, plus made biking a reasonable option for errand running when I never would have considered it before. But I've got three issues I'm trying to resolve, in decreasing order of annoyance:

1. I've started getting a clicking sound when I pedal. Not always, but pretty frequently. It clicks once per revolution of the pedals. The pedals and cranks aren't hitting anything I can see. If I remove the battery and pedal (100% human powered), it will still make the clicking sound, but if I use the throttle to power the bike and don't pedal (100% motor power), I cannot get it to click. I've tried manually turning the pedals while the bike is on a stand, but so far haven't been able to recreate the clicking sound there, either. My best theory is that it's coming from the cranks, possibly due to deformation of the tapered splines where they attach to the motor, so I've purchased replacement cranks (Lekkie) that I'm going to install just as soon as my crank puller shows up. But if that doesn't solve the problem, it will suggest the problem is inside the motor. Really hope it doesn't come to that. Anyone have similar problems or know of a solution?
2. The bike has a gear shift sensor to cut power during a gear shift, but sometimes the power will briefly cut out again a second or two after I shift gears. Initially I thought I must be bumping the shift or brake lever with my hand after a shift, but that doesn't seem to be the case (it happens even when I shift carefully, and purposely bumping those levers doesn't trigger the motor cutoff). So I'm kind of perplexed. I'm wondering if maybe my derailer or shift cable needs to be adjusted, and it's somehow triggering the shift sensor after a shift as the mechanism "settles" into proper position. Just a guess; suggestions welcome.
3. The motor often stays active for a second or so after I stop pedaling. This is a relatively minor annoyance, but I really expected not to have this problem on a torque sensor motor.

 

[bugnut]

1. Maybe chain

2. ?

3. I found that the higher the assist level the longer it stays active. That's why I do not go above level 2 Sport when riding in the woods.

 

[seabeast]

1. Maybe chain

2. ?

3. I found that the higher the assist level the longer it stays active. That's why I do not go above level 2 Sport when riding in the woods.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've pretty much ruled out everything outside the motor at this point, so I'm exchanging emails with Frey to try figuring it out. The current favorite theory is the clutch/pawl assembly that lets the pedals freewheel. I'll update once it's resolved, though that may be a while.
FYI, regarding the Lekkie cranks I was trying in an attempt to rule out crank arm issues, it turns out the Lekkie Buzz Bars don't quite fit: the left crank doesn't clear the motor housing, though it's really close. But at least I removed and reinstalled the stock cranks with proper torque, so I'm pretty confident they're not the problem. And Lekkie has been great; I'll probably either file down the offending crank a bit or else just return them.

Regarding my issue (3), looking at some Bafang programming guides I see some parameters related to the delay to motor cutoff after pedaling stops. I'll try reducing some of those parameters to see if it makes me happier.

 

[Rin]

If there is a rubbing/clicking sound when you are riding, but you can't get it to happen when you lift the bike and spin the wheels off the ground, your problem is most likely related to loose spokes. ... Try squeezing pairs of spokes together to see whether they are loose, and make the same sound you hear when riding.

 

[seabeast]

If there is a rubbing/clicking sound when you are riding, but you can't get it to happen when you lift the bike and spin the wheels off the ground, your problem is most likely related to loose spokes. ... Try squeezing pairs of spokes together to see whether they are loose, and make the same sound you hear when riding.

Thanks for offering suggestions (really), but I'm confident the problem isn't the spokes (or wheels). The sound occurs exactly once per pedal revolution, and very few parts of the bike are synchronized to the pedals: the clutch/pawls, the main gear, the main sprocket, and of course the crank arms and pedals themselves. And I guess there are probably a couple bearings and/or bushings on the axle, too.

Anyway, after sharing my observations and a video with Frey, and then with Bafang US tech support, they're shipping me a replacement motor. Confidence is high that will solve the problem. And I don't want to declare mission accomplished too soon, but so far at least I'm very pleased with how Frey is taking care of me on this.

 

[opimax]

I had the same timing sound on a Stromer bike, every revolution at about 1pm on the clock face, thought it was the center bearing or something between the pedals. it was the pedal on the left. Wore out early, may have been hit. Pretty easy to replace them as a test. Left pedal is the backwards one as far as taking off and on

 

[seabeast]

Quick update: after sending details of my problem and a video to Ivy at Frey, she put me in contact with Bafang support, who sent me a replacement motor.

I just finished swapping out the motor today. I only did a quick ride around the block, but so far it seems this solved my problem: no more clicking. Not only that, but the new motor is also noticeably quieter and has throttle-from-stop. That latter feature wasn't really something I cared about, though it did come in handy for making sure the new motor was hooked up properly when I was working on it and didn't yet have cranks or a sprocket installed.

Regarding the motor swap, I found Simon's video on regreasing the Ultra pretty helpful, though it sure made it seem a lot easier than what I experienced. Took me most of the weekend. His video is here:

A few notes for others planning to remove and reinstall an Ultra on an AM1000:

• To remove the crank arms, you need an ISIS spline crank puller. I used the Park Tools CWP-7.
• To remove the sprocket, you need a special Bafang socket to get the main sprocket lock ring off. It's the same tool that prior Bafang mid-drive motors used. I used a BikeHand Bottom Bracket Tool, and it worked OK, but if I were doing it again I probably would buy the pricier special Luna Cycles socket. The lever arm on the BikeHand tool meant it didn't work well on my impact driver, which is maybe part of the reason I had so much trouble getting the lockring off.
• In Simon's video he just grabs the sprocket with a towel to hold it while he unbolts the sprocket lock ring. My experience wasn't nearly so easy. I really struggled with it, and wished I had a sprocket whip tool to hold the sprocket in place. I finally discovered a recessed bolt hole on the Ultra case that could be used for leverage to prevent the sprocket from turning, and then by striking the bracket tool with a hammer I was able to slowly work it off. It was really on there, apparently secured with some sort of locking compound and with locking teeth on the lockring itself.
• Simon's video explains that the three bolts holding the motor to the frame need to be hammered out, but even after watching it I was surprised at how hard that step was. Those bolts did not want to come out.
• When it came time to bolt the new motor back in, I discovered why the bolts were previously so hard to get out: the motor holes didn't line up with the frame holes very well. With two bolts in, there was maybe 1-2mm misalignment for the third bolt. After much cursing, hammering, and a bit of filing to bevel the misaligned edges, I finally got all three bolts in.
• Simon's video also makes short work of packing the wires into the very tiny space under the plastic bolt cover. There's no real trick here, just a fair amount of pushing and yelling.
• I really hope I never have to swap the motor again. Especially when it's 90 degrees in the garage.

I also adjusted the rear derailleur by following the Park Tools video while I was working on the bike. Probably should have done that sooner, because it certainly seems to shift better now.

 

[Taylor57]

Quick update: after sending details of my problem and a video to Ivy at Frey, she put me in contact with Bafang support, who sent me a replacement motor.

I just finished swapping out the motor today. I only did a quick ride around the block, but so far it seems this solved my problem: no more clicking. Not only that, but the new motor is also noticeably quieter and has throttle-from-stop. That latter feature wasn't really something I cared about, though it did come in handy for making sure the new motor was hooked up properly when I was working on it and didn't yet have cranks or a sprocket installed.

Regarding the motor swap, I found Simon's video on regreasing the Ultra pretty helpful, though it sure made it seem a lot easier than what I experienced. Took me most of the weekend. His video is here:

A few notes for others planning to remove and reinstall an Ultra on an AM1000:

• To remove the crank arms, you need an ISIS spline crank puller. I used the Park Tools CWP-7.
• To remove the sprocket, you need a special Bafang socket to get the main sprocket lock ring off. It's the same tool that prior Bafang mid-drive motors used. I used a BikeHand Bottom Bracket Tool, and it worked OK, but if I were doing it again I probably would buy the pricier special Luna Cycles socket. The lever arm on the BikeHand tool meant it didn't work well on my impact driver, which is maybe part of the reason I had so much trouble getting the lockring off.
• In Simon's video he just grabs the sprocket with a towel to hold it while he unbolts the sprocket lock ring. My experience wasn't nearly so easy. I really struggled with it, and wished I had a sprocket whip tool to hold the sprocket in place. I finally discovered a recessed bolt hole on the Ultra case that could be used for leverage to prevent the sprocket from turning, and then by striking the bracket tool with a hammer I was able to slowly work it off. It was really on there, apparently secured with some sort of locking compound and with locking teeth on the lockring itself.
• Simon's video explains that the three bolts holding the motor to the frame need to be hammered out, but even after watching it I was surprised at how hard that step was. Those bolts did not want to come out.
• When it came time to bolt the new motor back in, I discovered why the bolts were previously so hard to get out: the motor holes didn't line up with the frame holes very well. With two bolts in, there was maybe 1-2mm misalignment for the third bolt. After much cursing, hammering, and a bit of filing to bevel the misaligned edges, I finally got all three bolts in.
• Simon's video also makes short work of packing the wires into the very tiny space under the plastic bolt cover. There's no real trick here, just a fair amount of pushing and yelling.
• I really hope I never have to swap the motor again. Especially when it's 90 degrees in the garage.

I also adjusted the rear derailleur by following the Park Tools video while I was working on the bike. Probably should have done that sooner, because it certainly seems to shift better now.

So since you replaced the motor, no more problems?

 

[seabeast]

So since you replaced the motor, no more problems?

Correct! The new motor has been working great, and my AM1000 has been trouble-free since.

 

[MartsEbike]

OK, I'll go first.

I've been enjoying my Frey AM1000 for over a month now, with maybe 200 miles of riding so far including a mix of trail and road. Super happy with the bike overall. It has totally transformed the mountain biking experience for me, plus made biking a reasonable option for errand running when I never would have considered it before. But I've got three issues I'm trying to resolve, in decreasing order of annoyance:

1. I've started getting a clicking sound when I pedal. Not always, but pretty frequently. It clicks once per revolution of the pedals. The pedals and cranks aren't hitting anything I can see. If I remove the battery and pedal (100% human powered), it will still make the clicking sound, but if I use the throttle to power the bike and don't pedal (100% motor power), I cannot get it to click. I've tried manually turning the pedals while the bike is on a stand, but so far haven't been able to recreate the clicking sound there, either. My best theory is that it's coming from the cranks, possibly due to deformation of the tapered splines where they attach to the motor, so I've purchased replacement cranks (Lekkie) that I'm going to install just as soon as my crank puller shows up. But if that doesn't solve the problem, it will suggest the problem is inside the motor. Really hope it doesn't come to that. Anyone have similar problems or know of a solution?
2. The bike has a gear shift sensor to cut power during a gear shift, but sometimes the power will briefly cut out again a second or two after I shift gears. Initially I thought I must be bumping the shift or brake lever with my hand after a shift, but that doesn't seem to be the case (it happens even when I shift carefully, and purposely bumping those levers doesn't trigger the motor cutoff). So I'm kind of perplexed. I'm wondering if maybe my derailer or shift cable needs to be adjusted, and it's somehow triggering the shift sensor after a shift as the mechanism "settles" into proper position. Just a guess; suggestions welcome.
3. The motor often stays active for a second or so after I stop pedaling. This is a relatively minor annoyance, but I really expected not to have this problem on a torque sensor motor.

Double check the peddles. I've had this before and it was the peddle bearings. Swapped for a new set and hey presto, perfect.

(edit)

Just seen you've already sorted it!

 

[Stevieman]

Has any one down basic programming on the ultra, I’ve got the AM1000 it works find, but when I change programming settings to the suggestions I’ve found all over the net and various forums, but nothing allows me to use the throttle from a standstill. I have read somewhere that Frey have send out a config file to allow this to a user, but I’ve only found one mention of this. Does any one have an idea of what to change exactly for Frey throttle etc, or a copy of the mythical file. I’ve also sent a message to Frey about sending me the config too.

 

[D.Unwin]

you might have already seen this and it might not help but here you go anyway

Stock Ultra settings and Programming guide

By proceeding with the following you are acknowledging that you are following these instructions carefully and in full. Biktrix is not liable for any changes being made resulting in corruption of t...

support.biktrix.com

 

[Stevieman]

Yeah I did, thanks buddy. I changed it all to the things it had said, then tried a couple other forums and changed it again. I still can’t get it to work. The programming part is really straight forward and easy however.

 

[D.Unwin]

ahhh ok, if you find out can you pop it on here or if i find something i will do the same

 

[MartsEbike]

I believe you need a different firmware to enable throttle from zero...It cannot be done with the stock firmware.

I was reading reports online about this and e-mailed Cecilia about having throttle from zero enabled from factory. She said at the time it was no problem. So hopefully it gets done but I won't really know until it arrives.

From what I can gather, Frey don't really want to share this file, but there is a Frey "brand ambassador" who has helped others with this ([email protected]), although no doubt you do it all at your own risk.

This FB thread has more info https://www.facebook.com/groups/257350408708195/permalink/268662317577004

 

[Stevieman]

I believe you need a different firmware to enable throttle from zero...It cannot be done with the stock firmware.

I was reading reports online about this and e-mailed Cecilia about having throttle from zero enabled from factory. She said at the time it was no problem. So hopefully it gets done but I won't really know until it arrives.

From what I can gather, Frey don't really want to share this file, but there is a Frey "brand ambassador" who has helped others with this ([email protected]), although no doubt you do it all at your own risk.

This FB thread has more info https://www.facebook.com/groups/257350408708195/permalink/268662317577004

Thanks for that, I’ve dropped him an email, this also means I wasn’t making a mess of the programming, it’s a firmware update. Hopefully he will reply and I can get it sorted

 

[Taylor57]

Throttle from a dead start is 90% of how I use the throttle. So if I order a Frey CC, it will come with a throttle unable to function at a dead stop? No bueno...

 

[D.Unwin]

you only have to pedal half a turn before the throttle engages, i think this was a safety feature so its not accidently pressed when your off the bike..

 

[Taylor57]

you only have to pedal half a turn before the throttle engages, i think this was a safety feature so its not accidently pressed when your off the bike..

And once you stop pedaling the throttle disengages? Even if not, I would still not buy a bike with a "partial" throttle...