Known Issues & Problems with Ebikemotion Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Stevenson]

how much did the replacement battery cost you btw you also have a Cannondale Neo?? Thanks

It's a wilier, I got it replaced under warranty

 

[Ed B]

I have an Orbea Gain m20i with the x35 drive. Two of my friends with Orbea Gains have had damaged motor casings. One had it replaced under warranty by the dealer. The other just happened and I don't know the outcome yet. There is a thread on this forum that shows the same thing happened to two Ribble bikes with this drive.

Does anyone have experience with the Mahle warranty on this issue. My Orbea is a 2019 so is out of the typical 1 year warranty but only has about 15K miles on it. Mahle USA (actually the company that provides their customer service - QBP) says this is NOT a common problem, and therefore its not covered, but if it wasnt a problem the flange would not have been redesigned so quickly. Just wondering if any forced the issue and got Mahle to cover the motor replacement when it was beyond the warranty period.

 

[Yayabike]

Hi All,
I have recently bought a Cannondale Gravel bike fitted with an Ebikemotion. Working OK (the app is very clunky - having to go to settings to tap Connect every time etc. ) but the issue I want to pick brains on is this.
Riding along in Green (usually but may do same in Orange - not sure) and I come to a rise in the road. Seems hard work so check and find it is now in White (no drive). So I am assuming that the 'system' is seeing that I have been either 'freewheeling' or riding faster than the limit (I am in UK so 25kph) for more than a time setting so has reset me to White (sort of neutral) or there is a fault somewhere. No error codes are involved in this at all. Once I have changed it back to Green I have drive and can get up the rise OK. It hasn't done this going into White (as far as I can recall) while I am 'under drive' so I am sure it is more of a 'coasting / nuetral' thing.
While I am at it does anyone know what power is output under Green, Orange, Red all at 100%? I would like to remap Green to about 50% of its power and then have Orange and Red in logical steps of power so that I can use the different power settings a bit like gears.

The Mahle app is almost useless but for 2 features : (A) you can get a more accurate battery level than with the IWOC -- but my garmin also tell me the battery level -- (B) you can adjust the assitance level in green/orange/red. I switched mine to 33,66, 100%.

Note that is the torque is very high (like a sudden steep slope and too high gear, the engine stops working, also below 12-15km/h it wokrs very badly, so i suggest to keep your speed in the [15,25] interval.

Last i don't hink that there is a torque or cadence sensor, i compared with a bosch evo line plus and the boss is actually delivering power proportional to your own, and this is Great. In the same slope with the same assistance level you can as well climb at 15km/h while relaxing or speed up at 25kmh with quite some effort.

The X35+ assistance is much closer to constant.


To adjust assistance : link the app and the bike. Click opitons and then motor maps. 3 maps are defined by defaults abd you can add your own (custom).

 

[bcarlson11]

Hi
I have an Orbea Gain M20i and have ridden 3000 kilometres. I have a problem with the ebikemotion x35 drive train. I I have had the problem since new.

The problem occurs when
1. The bike is going over 40kph
2. I am pedalling with some pressure on the pedals.
3. If I then back pedal the cassette seems to momentarily catch and chain would do a momentarily jump.

The problem doesn't occur if I just stop pedalling, only if I am pedalling with at least a little pressure on the pedals and then back pedal (not just stop pedalling).

I have had my Orbea dealer check it. He didn't find anything wrong but did adjust the drive train, and including increasing the chain tension. The adjustment did help ; the chain doesn't jump as much but it still occurs.

Has anyone any suggestions on what the problem can be?
Chris

Chris,
I have recently acquired a 2022 Orbea Gain M20i and on my third ride out I found myself diverted into a gutter and scraping the aluminum outer chain ring against a concrete curb. Wow, it does not talk a lot to wear away the teeth on these aluminum chainrings, so for all you Ultegra and DuraAce users out there, be aware that aluminum chainrings are not as durable as steel chainrings.. The local Orbea dealer explained that the very specific profiling on the chainring teeth is critical to avoiding unplanned jumps in the chain. Is there any possibility that either the front outer chainring or some of the cogs in the rear cassette have been damaged in any way that could be causing the jumping?
BCarlson

 

[ChrisH]

Chris,
I have recently acquired a 2022 Orbea Gain M20i and on my third ride out I found myself diverted into a gutter and scraping the aluminum outer chain ring against a concrete curb. Wow, it does not talk a lot to wear away the teeth on these aluminum chainrings, so for all you Ultegra and DuraAce users out there, be aware that aluminum chainrings are not as durable as steel chainrings.. The local Orbea dealer explained that the very specific profiling on the chainring teeth is critical to avoiding unplanned jumps in the chain. Is there any possibility that either the front outer chainring or some of the cogs in the rear cassette have been damaged in any way that could be causing the jumping?
BCarlson

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check the chain ring and the cassette

Chris

 

[ChrisH]

Chris,
I have recently acquired a 2022 Orbea Gain M20i and on my third ride out I found myself diverted into a gutter and scraping the aluminum outer chain ring against a concrete curb. Wow, it does not talk a lot to wear away the teeth on these aluminum chainrings, so for all you Ultegra and DuraAce users out there, be aware that aluminum chainrings are not as durable as steel chainrings.. The local Orbea dealer explained that the very specific profiling on the chainring teeth is critical to avoiding unplanned jumps in the chain. Is there any possibility that either the front outer chainring or some of the cogs in the rear cassette have been damaged in any way that could be causing the jumping?
BCarlson

I have had a good look at the large chainwheel. There is no obvious damage although the dark grey surface coating has worn off on parts of the teeth. As the problem happens on all the smaller cogs of the rear cassette I don't think its the cassette. I suspect the cause is the free wheel system not immediately freeing up at that speed and causing the jump.

The problem hasn't changed since I have had the bike (7000 km) and it hasn't caused any major issues. I haven't been bothered or game enough to pull the free wheel apart to check further!

Chris

 

[double99]

Just thought I'd chime in with an issue I haven't seen mentioned here. I have a Cannondale Tesoro Neo SL EQ (so many letters...) with a Mahle X35 (not X35+, as far as I'm aware) and almost from new, it does this 'lurching' thing. When going up a steep hill, the power cuts out, just for a beat - no more than half a second - and then kicks back in again, so you sort of lurch forward. It might do this three or four times in the course of a shortish climb. But it's intermittent, and only happens on steep hills.

I've also had the 'power assist set to zero' thing recently: again, only on steep hills, you suddenly lose power assist for no reason, and the light goes to white. You can then switch it back to the level you were on before, but it's annoying (and intermittent!)

It's 4 months old, and has done about 250 miles. Otherwise, it's a great bike and I'm very happy with it.

My local bike shop said they've seen the first issue before (the 'lurching') and think a reset and firmware update should fix it. I'll update with the results if I remember...

 

[stig]

No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric motors from Ebikemotion as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.

Hi. I have had an issue with the latest version of the app. Since upgrading if you change the power level with the app it returns after a few seconds to a lower level until it gets to zero. Even if done via the iwoc. Turn the app off and ok and stays on the level selected. A setting or a bug?

 

[Ed B]

it does this 'lurching' thing. When going up a steep hill, the power cuts out, just for a beat - no more than half a second - and then kicks back in again,

I had an original X35 then got the new version when the flange broke on the original, and now notice this issue too. It happens when my cadence falls really low on hills, usually when I'm out of the saddle, I can feel the power cut out when I'm at the top of the pedal stroke. The problem goes away at higher cadence. Around the time I had to go to the redesigned X35 motor (is that an X35+??) I also had the cadence sensor replaced because it was showing signs of failure when the LBS was configuring the new motor. So not sure if the issue is more the motor or the sensor. But dont remember this issue as much (if at all) on the original configuration.

 

[Yayabike]

I had an original X35 then got the new version when the flange broke on the original, and now notice this issue too. It happens when my cadence falls really low on hills, usually when I'm out of the saddle, I can feel the power cut out when I'm at the top of the pedal stroke. The problem goes away at higher cadence. Around the time I had to go to the redesigned X35 motor (is that an X35+??) I also had the cadence sensor replaced because it was showing signs of failure when the LBS was configuring the new motor. So not sure if the issue is more the motor or the sensor. But dont remember this issue as much (if at all) on the original configuration.

One major issue with my orbea vibe was that assistance would often cut of on very steep climb (8-10 % or more). On top it was a rear wheel engine to it dragged a lot anyway during climbs. I would advice people to avoid Mahle engine, Fazua is producing a similar engine but it is much better because :
a) it is a central engine.
b) the battery and engine body can be extracted without any tool in like 15 second. This mean that if the engine/battery combo gets faulty you can get it served while keeping a fully functionnal bike. Yes no need to return the bike if you get some hardware problem,

 

[double99]

My local bike shop said they've seen the first issue before (the 'lurching') and think a reset and firmware update should fix it. I'll update with the results if I remember...

Well, the shop said they took it for a 30 min ride and couldn't replicate the issue. But they upgraded the firmware. On the plus side, they didn't charge me.

Took the bike out yesterday, and it didn't do the 'lurching', so... perhaps it's fixed? Or perhaps it will just do it next time - it is an intermittent issue after all

However, after about 10 miles... the power reset to zero again. So that's definitely not fixed...

I had an original X35 then got the new version when the flange broke on the original, and now notice this issue too. It happens when my cadence falls really low on hills, usually when I'm out of the saddle, I can feel the power cut out when I'm at the top of the pedal stroke. The problem goes away at higher cadence.

That's interesting. I've not really been out of the saddle on this bike - (I got it because of my fatigue problems, and I try to keep my heart rate down) - but I can imagine it could be pretty dangerous if it happens then?

Also interesting that you say it might be a cadence issue. Even before my CFS I was always a 'stay in the saddle and keep a high cadence' type of rider, so perhaps that's why I've only experienced it on steep hills (ie that's the only time my cadence drops). But even then it doesn't generally drop too far...?!

 

[double99]

Another question. I notice that when you get to a certain battery level (blinking red light), the bike seems to restrict the motor power, perhaps to power level 2? And then when you get the triple blinking light, am I right in thinking it drops down again to power level 1?

Is there any documentation of this anywhere? I can't find it mentioned anywhere...

 

[Albazeus]

I purchased an Orbea Gain D50 with the x35 system back in 2021. I haven't used the bike much, circa 400 miles.

I seem to encounter the 193 CellOverVoltage error on a regular basis. In actual fact including the error appearing today (the bike was charging but had only reached 89% when the app suddenly presented the 193 error) it has been 7 times I have experienced this so far. I never charge the battery overnight or indeed above 98% as was advised by the dealer I purchased from (sigma sports).

I was advised by Sigma sports "running the battery down to 0% then giving the bike a full charge & then allowing the bike to charge for another two hours past the full charge point to recalibrate the battery". I have done this on each of the 6 occasions before today and whilst it has been successful it can take many days for the battery to run down as when this error is showing the motor doesn't engage so I have to leave the bike switched on with the app open on my phone.

As you can imagine paying over 2k for a product and having to "recalibrate the battery" every 2 or 3 charges is considerably frustrating.

Are you able to advise why this error keeps appearing? Is there something I could potentially be doing that is causing the error to appear?

 

[Yayabike]

I purchased an Orbea Gain D50 with the x35 system back in 2021. I haven't used the bike much, circa 400 miles.

I seem to encounter the 193 CellOverVoltage error on a regular basis. In actual fact including the error appearing today (the bike was charging but had only reached 89% when the app suddenly presented the 193 error) it has been 7 times I have experienced this so far. I never charge the battery overnight or indeed above 98% as was advised by the dealer I purchased from (sigma sports).

I was advised by Sigma sports "running the battery down to 0% then giving the bike a full charge & then allowing the bike to charge for another two hours past the full charge point to recalibrate the battery". I have done this on each of the 6 occasions before today and whilst it has been successful it can take many days for the battery to run down as when this error is showing the motor doesn't engage so I have to leave the bike switched on with the app open on my phone.

As you can imagine paying over 2k for a product and having to "recalibrate the battery" every 2 or 3 charges is considerably frustrating.

Are you able to advise why this error keeps appearing? Is there something I could potentially be doing that is causing the error to appear?

This is the issue i got with my Vibe, Orbea asked me to return the bike granted that they covered the expenses for that. It was not a very positive experience since i had to bring the bike to the shop, then i waited 5 weeks and then i had to go back to the shop. Note also that Orbea did the best they could, and i suggested them to give up their association with Mahle/ebikemotion.

The error i got was also over-voltage and Orbea customer service also suggested me to empty the battery completely and to refill it. It did not fix the problem.

Once the bike had been served i still got from time to time the overload message, so i had to take care of charging it up only to 90% (exactly like you).

I don t have the bike anymore, i switched to a Cannondale with a Bosch motor, the charger is smart so it cuts off when the battery is full.

I m very happy with the Bosch motor, but my bike is at 19.5kg with the rear rack, with a light motor light the X* of Mahle i could save 2-3kg, but i will never buy any bike with a Mahle motor.

Later i may replace my Cannondale by a Canyon -- pathlite on roadlite on), the market is still evolving and the light ebike sector is active, lot of commuter are looking for ebike that can be safely carried into thei flat or office. Fazua and Mahle are likely to get competitors, indeed Yamaha already released " light" motors.

Last if your bike is still under warranty (is it 2 years or 5? it depends on the part, i m afraid that for the motor it ma only be 2 years, check anyway) get it returned.

 

[PeterG]

Despite the stored battery being charged to the orange/green iWOC LED threshold (i.e. 50-60%), I could not turn on my Mahle X35+ (Wilier Cento10 Hybrid) after this winter, a year after the warranty period ended. After connecting to the charger, the iWOC lights up white, the app shows 100% charge, but I still can't turn on the bike. Wilier authorised distributor said , the battery is faulty. The battery was replaced under warranty once (error 193, Cell over voltage), then the error occurred again and the fw upgrade "solved" it. It was always necessary to send the whole bike to the distributor, who is in another country than where I live (in the Czech Republic, while I'm from Slovakia), fortunately at distributor's expence within the warranty period. Now I can't buy a new battery and replace it myself (which I'm able to do, no problem), Mahle only sells to B2B partners and pairing the battery to the rest of the X35+ drive system requires a special sw that only the distributor has, so the only option is to send the whole bike back to him again. 250 Wh Mahle battery is for 660 eur, sending the bike to distributor back and forth is ca. 2x 200 eur, distributor asks 60 eur for the job, so total battery replacemnt is ca. 1 120 eur (ca. 1 200 USD) plus packing the bike to the transportation box and arranging the shipment. STAY AWAY FROM MAHLE SYSTEM unless you have a good distributor on hand and a full wallet.

 

[Judas]

Hi All, I have an Orbea Gain M20i and pulled the rear wheel off to put on a different cassette. Put it back on connected the cable and tested on the bike stand and now the motor does not work, what could I have done?
Is there a speed sensor somewhere that could have come off? I have the cable pointed down from the hub like it was when I took it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Did you put the proper cassette lock ring on? The Mahle X35 requires a special lock ring with magnets embedded around the circumference. As it rotates a Hall sensor in the wheel stay produces pulses to indicate pedalling action and start the motor.