Just died. Doesn't turn on. No power. No screen - Broke AGAIN

Even if you’re not able to “read” a schematic, most DIYers can glean a little info. Like is the thermal sensor in the battery or the controller? Something to let you walk through the problem. I have good power. Step one. From there I know nothing. Does it go through a “boot up” system check. I’d expect a failure of such would generate an error, not a blank screen, but I don’t know. Which terminals on the battery are SUPPOSED to have power and how much? If your business model is consumer maintenance, give them the info they need to do it.
 
Even if you’re not able to “read” a schematic, most DIYers can glean a little info. Like is the thermal sensor in the battery or the controller? Something to let you walk through the problem. I have good power. Step one. From there I know nothing. Does it go through a “boot up” system check. I’d expect a failure of such would generate an error, not a blank screen, but I don’t know. Which terminals on the battery are SUPPOSED to have power and how much? If your business model is consumer maintenance, give them the info they need to do it.
The problem is that even if you had a schematic, it probably wouldn't be much help. Much of the system is closed and needs to be fully connected to test. So why parts changing seems simplistic, it can be the best approach.
You mentioned that certain pins had voltage even with the battery disconnected. Where are you testing these from? Can you post a pic.
To me I don't think it heat related, but possibly a voltage that needs to disapate. Thermal cutouts typically trip under load while in use, not really the symptoms that you are having.
This is a shot in the dark whilst we wait... But when you shut down the system is it possible to leave the lights on to burn up and residual voltage? Then try turning it back on?
This said when parts arrive I'd try swapping the display first as it is probably the easiest, then the controller.
 
Bikes that cost less than a high-quality DIY kit will always be an adventure. Especially these days where the parts stream is so fucked up. I speak with someone every day desperately calling any reseller that answers the phone. We'll all be happy when the stock finally catches up with demand.
 
The problem is that even if you had a schematic, it probably wouldn't be much help. Much of the system is closed and needs to be fully connected to test. So why parts changing seems simplistic, it can be the best approach.
You mentioned that certain pins had voltage even with the battery disconnected. Where are you testing these from? Can you post a pic.
To me I don't think it heat related, but possibly a voltage that needs to disapate. Thermal cutouts typically trip under load while in use, not really the symptoms that you are having.
This is a shot in the dark whilst we wait... But when you shut down the system is it possible to leave the lights on to burn up and residual voltage? Then try turning it back on?
This said when parts arrive I'd try swapping the display first as it is probably the easiest, then the controller.
There are 6 terminals at the bottom of the battery. The male terminals on the bike side and the battery has female. 3 rows of 2 that are stamped with a number. 1,2&3 are on the left side and 4,5,&6 on the right. The single diagnostic Himiway had me do, we check the voltage between 2&5 on the battery with a voltmeter. 53 volts. In my own diagnostics I checked the male terminals and found 2&5 and 3&6 to all have 53 volts hours after removing the battery, so there must be a capacitor in controller that's holding it. I was getting an inconsistent 1.5 volts between 1&4. But, I have no idea what "normal" is. And leaving the lights on won't drain it because it will time out after 10 minutes. And I don't know if I've got it in me to ride it until it's dead. I supposed I could try 100% motor to try to run it dry, but not sure what it would accomplish.

And yea, I'll do the display first if they get here at the same time. My neighbors have an identical bike if they ever get back from their current RV trip. I can try swapping a battery with them, and maybe plugging into their display if there is enough slack in the wire. Problem is it works once and then doesn't next time I stop for a break on a ride.

And I'm grasping at straws. I would expect heat to shut down in the middle of a ride, not the end. Just grappling with logic to solve an issue that is probably not logical. Day one of retirement. We had plans for exploring new trails about every day and here I am. Tried yesterday for my one start in the morning and it didn't work. I ended up on a very difficult 5 mile ride with no assist and too many hills. Not a lot of flat in KC. Thanks for the help.
 
Bikes that cost less than a high-quality DIY kit will always be an adventure. Especially these days where the parts stream is so fucked up. I speak with someone every day desperately calling any reseller that answers the phone. We'll all be happy when the stock finally catches up with demand.
I appreciate that. This supply chain thing is driving us all nuts. I've got to replace a few boards on my deck. Can't find a 2x6 anywhere. It's nuts. BUT, I've got TP! It's a little encouraging that the parts issue is widespread. I felt like Himiway was just blowing me off. And yes, I knew I was taking a risk with a less expensive bike. I bought my wife a Rad Mini and I think it's a better quality bike, but still the less expensive class. I'm a big guy (trying to change that) and needed the capacity of the Himiway not available on most of the other bikes. AND, we're new to e-biking. I've got a broken hip and a broken ankle that didn't heal right that keep me from taking the fitness walks I love. I'm able to ride my stationary bike though, so took a chance on the e-bikes. Two of them with a Hollywood rack, was a pretty significant gamble. Hope is to wear them out and then feel better about the higher priced bikes. And, I've taken to it. The assist keeps the pressure off my knee & hip on the hills and I'm able to setup the combination to get my heart rate where I want it. Retirement is great. The old that comes with it, not so much. Thanks.
 
There are 6 terminals at the bottom of the battery. The male terminals on the bike side and the battery has female. 3 rows of 2 that are stamped with a number. 1,2&3 are on the left side and 4,5,&6 on the right. The single diagnostic Himiway had me do, we check the voltage between 2&5 on the battery with a voltmeter. 53 volts. In my own diagnostics I checked the male terminals and found 2&5 and 3&6 to all have 53 volts hours after removing the battery, so there must be a capacitor in controller that's holding it. I was getting an inconsistent 1.5 volts between 1&4. But, I have no idea what "normal" is. And leaving the lights on won't drain it because it will time out after 10 minutes. And I don't know if I've got it in me to ride it until it's dead. I supposed I could try 100% motor to try to run it dry, but not sure what it would accomplish.

And yea, I'll do the display first if they get here at the same time. My neighbors have an identical bike if they ever get back from their current RV trip. I can try swapping a battery with them, and maybe plugging into their display if there is enough slack in the wire. Problem is it works once and then doesn't next time I stop for a break on a ride.

And I'm grasping at straws. I would expect heat to shut down in the middle of a ride, not the end. Just grappling with logic to solve an issue that is probably not logical. Day one of retirement. We had plans for exploring new trails about every day and here I am. Tried yesterday for my one start in the morning and it didn't work. I ended up on a very difficult 5 mile ride with no assist and too many hills. Not a lot of flat in KC. Thanks for the help.
Again, grasping at straws...
But I meant to leave the lights on to drain the capacitor, not the entire battery. If the battery has a switch, cycle it off. If not, unplug it.
Even if it does work, it's not going to solve the problem but I thought it might make it easier to ride until parts arrive.
 
Two weeks have come and gone. The only thing Himiway can say is we'll ship them when they can. So, I wait. Weird how pre-purchase research finds none of this out and NOW, I find all sorts of stories about their lack of customer service. It's like our Golden Retriever that was supposed to be the wonder breed until AFTER purchase and we find out they are prone to allergies, ear infections, epilepsy and apparently eating everything aren't supposed to.
 
Two weeks have come and gone. The only thing Himiway can say is we'll ship them when they can. So, I wait. Weird how pre-purchase research finds none of this out and NOW, I find all sorts of stories about their lack of customer service. It's like our Golden Retriever that was supposed to be the wonder breed until AFTER purchase and we find out they are prone to allergies, ear infections, epilepsy and apparently eating everything aren't supposed to.
That sucks.
I take it that draining the capacitors wasn't any help.

Sometimes you just can't win... I purchased some hybrid award winning honeysuckle because it was supposed to be the most fragrant as well as insect and disease resistant type. It's the only plant in my yard that gets repeatedly over run with aphids and white powdery mildew every year. And since I have to constantly spray it with neem oil, the flowers are.... ehh...
 
That sucks.
I take it that draining the capacitors wasn't any help.

Sometimes you just can't win... I purchased some hybrid award winning honeysuckle because it was supposed to be the most fragrant as well as insect and disease resistant type. It's the only plant in my yard that gets repeatedly over run with aphids and white powdery mildew every year. And since I have to constantly spray it with neem oil, the flowers are.... ehh...
Well, no. I can't turn the lights on, BUT . . . on the capacitor thought. I've noticed that 3 times now after it sits for 3 days. Not 2 days, THREE days, it will turn on and I can ride it ONCE, although once I got 3 days in a row out of it. That's with a fully charged battery attached, but not turned on. Makes me think it takes that long to drain the capacitor. I'm hoping the capacitor is in the controller, if and when it arrives. I'm going to have a problem ever feeling any confidence in it. And yea, it's really frustrating. I literally scheduled my retirement so I could do a number of localish rides in June, early July before heading out for some exploring. Everybody asks what you're going to do and my answer was ride my bike, not look at it.

Frankly, I've had to deal with the Chinese a lot during covid and none of this is all that surprising. They had no problems telling me whatever they needed to. When I retired last week I was still getting PPE deliveries "guaranteed" a year ago.
 
Well, no. I can't turn the lights on, BUT . . . on the capacitor thought. I've noticed that 3 times now after it sits for 3 days. Not 2 days, THREE days, it will turn on and I can ride it ONCE, although once I got 3 days in a row out of it. That's with a fully charged battery attached, but not turned on. Makes me think it takes that long to drain the capacitor. I'm hoping the capacitor is in the controller, if and when it arrives. I'm going to have a problem ever feeling any confidence in it. And yea, it's really frustrating. I literally scheduled my retirement so I could do a number of localish rides in June, early July before heading out for some exploring. Everybody asks what you're going to do and my answer was ride my bike, not look at it.

Frankly, I've had to deal with the Chinese a lot during covid and none of this is all that surprising. They had no problems telling me whatever they needed to. When I retired last week I was still getting PPE deliveries "guaranteed" a year ago.
One thing to try is after a ride.... leave the display and lights on and shut the battery off by its switch... That possibly could drain any residual.

Another unrelated thing is try not to keep your battery at full charge, especially if you don't need that much capacity for your typical ride. Li_ion doesn't like being at full charge and degrades quicker when left there for extended periods. 3 days isn't very long but if it's not necessary I'd charge to 80% or so.
Good read on the subject: Battery Guide
 
WAY OFF-TOPIC
6 minutes you'll never get back
aphids and white powdery mildew every year
A nutritional problem. Nature's cleanup crew. Ants farm aphids. More often it's overuse of the wrong fertilizers/nutrients. Powdery mildew can be a site issue. Not enough sun. Organic whole milk spray will manage powdery mildew. But typically it's the wrong microclimate. I know a plant guy.
 
One thing to try is after a ride.... leave the display and lights on and shut the battery off by its switch... That possibly could drain any residual.

Another unrelated thing is try not to keep your battery at full charge, especially if you don't need that much capacity for your typical ride. Li_ion doesn't like being at full charge and degrades quicker when left there for extended periods. 3 days isn't very long but if it's not necessary I'd charge to 80% or so.
Good read on the subject: Battery Guide
Thanks for the info. Himiway doesn't have an off switch on the battery. All I can do is remove it, which I've tried. I generally charge it every 3-4 days. I ride 15-20 a day as a "routine" ride. Don't use a lot of battery, so I usually just top it off when I get to half. I always keep half in the "tank" unless I have to motor home. I've got a bad hip and bad knee, so I'm always at risk of getting stranded if I tweak them and have to stop riding. That was the point of an e-bike, to expand my range but be able to motor home if I get into pain.

On the up side, FedEx notified me in the middle of the night of a shipment from some company in WUXI, JS CN sending me something. HOPEFULLY, this is the actual name for Himiway and this is both my needed parts and I'm soon to be back on the road. OR, it's another 500,000 masks I ordered a year ago. Or worse, hand sanitizer, which I swore to never use again.
 
WAY OFF-TOPIC
6 minutes you'll never get back

A nutritional problem. Nature's cleanup crew. Ants farm aphids. More often it's overuse of the wrong fertilizers/nutrients. Powdery mildew can be a site issue. Not enough sun. Organic whole milk spray will manage powdery mildew. But typically it's the wrong microclimate. I know a plant guy.
6 way too long minutes I'll never get back is right. Have your friend make me up some native soil honeysuckle tea please! That or I'm going to spray it with the AFC-50 🙃
But your comment on fertilizer made me think. I typically only use sparingly a well rounded multi purpose fertilizer in my yard.. Like 25% of directed... that and occasionally some aquarium water at the base. Next year they'll get nothing as I realized the Japanese Honeysuckle that grows wild in my area grows magnificently with nothing added. I have them in near to full sun as I was aware they needed to be. Neem works well but seems to stunt flowering and distorts existing blooms.. I'm in the hood so I don't know if organic whole milk is readily available without an upstate run. Dad use to pick some up while hunting... But that was for home made ricotta.
IMAG1226~3.jpg
One of the 4 locations.. I do get one nice bloom out of them after the aphids but before the mold attacks

@tk40yr ...sorry for the hijack!
And I totally understand as I went electric for my knee too. Sometimes it just flares up and I'm glad to have some electrons help out. I went diy on an old bike and this gave me an excellent covid project as well. We seem to ride about the same as well so if it's not too much hassle use your battery between 40 - 80% for best cycle life. Most achieve this with the use of a simple timer on the charger. I did take it to the next level and implemented an inexpensive solar charger that lets me set a voltage... But I like to tinker and have the time.
Lastly I'd guess that the FedEx is your parts!
 
Hallelujah! Parts finally showed up today. Somehow I got lucky and the easy fix, appears to have fixed it. The past few days it's been completely dead. Plugged in the new display/switch (just one plug) and it fired right up. Pretty easy to swap out. I've turned it off and on numerous times configuring the new settings. Now for a few rides to make sure it holds. I'll hold onto the controller as long as possible before I return things. Fingers optimistically crossed. Thanks all for the help/encouragement. I've learned much through this, so it's not a loss.
 
'It's not a loss' is a very good attitude. If the fix holds, please edit your title ... add "resolved" or "fixed". Good luck.
 
New display unit fixed it. Rode it for 400 miles (first one was 360) and the same thing happened. DEAD. Stopped to deal with a phone call. Slight hill, so I held one brake down, no throttle. Presumably the bike timed out and shut off. Won't turn back on. Raising hell with Himiway. LOW expectations. I took me a couple weeks to get refund from the last one. Horrible company. Horrible bike.
 
Bikes that cost less than a high-quality DIY kit will always be an adventure. Especially these days where the parts stream is so fucked up. I speak with someone every day desperately calling any reseller that answers the phone. We'll all be happy when the stock finally catches up with demand.
Personally I think we will all be a lot happier when we can find other sources and not have to deal with CCP Chinese companies.
 
There are 6 terminals at the bottom of the battery. The male terminals on the bike side and the battery has female. 3 rows of 2 that are stamped with a number. 1,2&3 are on the left side and 4,5,&6 on the right. The single diagnostic Himiway had me do, we check the voltage between 2&5 on the battery with a voltmeter. 53 volts. In my own diagnostics I checked the male terminals and found 2&5 and 3&6 to all have 53 volts hours after removing the battery, so there must be a capacitor in controller that's holding it. I was getting an inconsistent 1.5 volts between 1&4. But, I have no idea what "normal" is. And leaving the lights on won't drain it because it will time out after 10 minutes. And I don't know if I've got it in me to ride it until it's dead. I supposed I could try 100% motor to try to run it dry, but not sure what it would accomplish.

And yea, I'll do the display first if they get here at the same time. My neighbors have an identical bike if they ever get back from their current RV trip. I can try swapping a battery with them, and maybe plugging into their display if there is enough slack in the wire. Problem is it works once and then doesn't next time I stop for a break on a ride.

And I'm grasping at straws. I would expect heat to shut down in the middle of a ride, not the end. Just grappling with logic to solve an issue that is probably not logical. Day one of retirement. We had plans for exploring new trails about every day and here I am. Tried yesterday for my one start in the morning and it didn't work. I ended up on a very difficult 5 mile ride with no assist and too many hills. Not a lot of flat in KC. Thanks for the help.
So correct me if I am wrong, you were checking the battery voltage at the farme mounted male connectors and not the female connects on the battery it self? I recently checked my voltage when I had the battery for charging (never charge it on bike). At the battery terminals I saw very similar voltages as you the peak battery voltage was 54.5v.

You have peaked my curiosity so I will be checking the male pins on the bike after removing the battery. I'll report back my findings.
 
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