Install dedicated headlight with Das-kit C7?

I ordered the NCM rack and light kit for my Moscow Plus. Very pleased with the rack, it is very sturdily made and the mounting is elegant, requiring no supporting stay. I doubt I'll ever use the light, but it is nice to know it is there when I need it. Yes, I'll confirm there is no headlight turn on from the display unit, but just a simple switch on top of the light. You have to look, but there is a threaded boss for the light on the BACK side of the fork support, so you can toss the lock nut that comes with the light, and just use its companion hex-head bolt to mount it there.

As far as the wiring, it is not necessary to disassemble the battery lock. You should be able to see the power plug in the opening on the front upper side of the downtube, where the control wiring from the battery exits. Just pry that rubber grommet out, and you'll have ample access to pull out the headlight cord to the desired length to plug it in. It's easy to get the grommet back in place afterward, and much less hassle than removing the lock mechanism.
 
And if it's the same as what came with my bike, the rear light is powered by it's own self-contained batteries and the front light directly from a 48V tap off the battery/controller with no on/off capability from the display. (This last point for Chinto's post above re an alternate headlamp)
 
Think again. I just measured the output on my Julet connector and got 50 Volts.
The front light Julet connector on the Moscow Plus is hardwired to the battery leads at the frame mounted battery connector. It runs at full battery voltage.
 

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Very useful info, thanks!

Does this mean that the light must have its own switch to on/off the light, right? Other way it would be always on.

And will the light be ok if receiving a range of Voltage between 44v and 54v?
 
Very useful info, thanks!

Does this mean that the light must have its own switch to on/off the light, right? Other way it would be always on.

And will the light be ok if receiving a range of Voltage between 44v and 54v?
The power comes on with the battery switch but yes, I believe the lights have their own 'On/Off' switch.
I would imagine the light is produced to be able to cope with that range of voltage, yes.
 
New upgrades to my ebike.☺️
 

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View attachment 49098
View attachment 49099

Where to buy:




Install instructions


I just removed my battery lock and confirmed the plug location.

View attachment 49100

I personally can not recommend this headlight. I installed it last year and had to repair it twice after the lead (which seems too short) ripped off the circuit board. It doesn't even have a cable gland to secure the cable to the outer body of the headlight. Both times the cable shorted out and made a 'pop' noise. The leds that indicate battery status stopped working until I restarted the battery switch.
 
How are you powering the lights? Main battery? Separate battery? Other?
I use the main battery, i connected the headlight directly to the battery and i use a power switch.Watch this trade, i put there many new upgrades.

 
Does anyone know what kind of plug the headlight use or were to get one?

My Das-Kit C7 uses a 3 pin Julet/Higo connector.
The Higo/male is going to the headlight.

20221208_220346.jpg20221208_220423.jpg20221208_221810.jpg20221208_221854.jpg


I found this on ebay,..

Screenshot_20221208-222314_eBay.jpgScreenshot_20221208-222453_eBay.jpgScreenshot_20221208-222715_eBay.jpg
 
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I use the main battery, i connected the headlight directly to the battery and i use a power switch.Watch this trade, i put there many new upgrades.

My Das-Kit C7 uses a 3 pin Julet/Higo connector.
The Higo/male is going to the headlight.

View attachment 142038View attachment 142039View attachment 142040View attachment 142041


I found this on ebay,..
FYI...this is different on my bike (and I think on most NCM bikes). On mine the headlight is connected directly to the battery via a round 2-pin HiGo connector. ..Not thru the display. The light is turned on/off by a switch on the light itself, not thru the display. Not as good as the T1000 setup. It'll be interesting to see if your off-road display kit has a connector for the headlight and the ability to turn it on/off thru the display.
 
FYI...this is different on my bike (and I think on most NCM bikes). On mine the headlight is connected directly to the battery via a round 2-pin HiGo connector. ..Not thru the display. The light is turned on/off by a switch on the light itself, not thru the display. Not as good as the T1000 setup. It'll be interesting to see if your off-road display kit has a connector for the headlight and the ability to turn it on/off thru the display.


Oh, OK.
Thanks for the info.

There is this then,..

Screenshot_20221208-234043_eBay.jpg


But my brake switch is a 2 pin plug labeled "julet" and it is different.


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,.. It'll be interesting to see if your off-road display kit has a connector for the headlight and the ability to turn it on/off thru the display.

Ah crap.
Looks like I might have do some cutting/splicing and soldering.

Do you know if your light runs off 48 volts?

I might just delete my headlight and add a little light to my handlebars.

I don't intend to ride at night and just want to be legal if I end up in the dark.
 
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Ah crap.
Looks like I might have do some cutting/splicing and soldering.

Do you know if your light runs off 48 volts?

I might just delete my headlight and add a little light to my handlebars.

I don't intend to ride at night and just want to be legal if I end up in the dark.
Looks like the T1000 has a few different connectors? I guess you'll have to see what you get when the off-road display arrives. Yes, the way my light works it runs directly off the battery at 48V and the switch is on the light itself. I thought it was a crappy light so now have handlebar lights which are powered by rechargeable batteries. I don't use the lights much either as I'm not that fond of night riding.
BTW, when I was on the ET web site, I noted that the specs say the T1000 has a 22 amp controller whereas mine is 18 amp..Maybe you already mentioned this, but could partially explain why the T1000 has more zip.
 
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