Greetings, I have a 2017 Giant Quick E, which I try to commute to work 3-4x per week on about 12 miles each way. I have logged about 1700 miles over the past year doing so. My initial plan was to run it stock for 2 years, with a goal to wear out the battery and then get a new one via warranty, as apparently if you start modifying things it voids the warranty. I recently ran a diagnostic on it after a year of use, and the battery is holding up great, and currently as about a 92% efficiency (need 60% for a replacement). I have gone through a rear cassette and some new pads, and almost killed myself when the bike seat bolt sheared off at 25 mph, but other than that it's been a good ride.
So, since I don't think I am going to be eligible for a battery replacement, I might as well let it rip now. Currently I can maintain about 24-27 mph on the flats depending on several factors. Ideally, I would like to be able to remove the top speed limiter and install some taller gearing with a goal of maintaining around 30-32 mph on the flats. My speculating is that a top speed limiter remover would be great, but based on how the bike reacts, peak torque doesn't happen at a higher cadence level... it has to be lower for the max support to kick in. Therefore to stretch it out correctly and really get a good level of assist into the higher speeds, think I would need both. The problem is the gearing appears a lot easier said than done and brings up the questions that I have:
- Has anyone managed to install a larger front chain ring on the quick e? It comes stock with a 48 tooth, and unfortunately it doesn't look like a lot of room is available to increase the size here. Ideally a 52 would bring the cadence to a comfortable 80 with an 11 tooth in the back. I would guess that a 50 tooth may fit, but a 52 just won't. Anyone have any input on this one?
- Second on the larger chainring - I brought up at the bike shop with the idea to put in a 5 MM spacer or so to move the main chainring out, so I could nestle in a 52 tooth up front. They looked at me like I was crazy for opting to mess up the chain line. I am not a pro, but it doesnt seem like it is a bid deal since I am doing all the riding in the bottom 1/2 of the gears anyway.
- Dropping down to a 10 tooth cog seems like another easy solution, but apparently they dont manufacture a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed cog, so I would have to do a giant conversion to a SRAM XD or something along those lines to be able to fit an 11 speed. If that is the case, do I just need the conversion part, or do I need a whole new derailer, shifters, etc.? I was also thinking even if I was able to go down to the 10, would it work? I wore out my 11 speed cog in about 1500 miles.... not sure how long a 10 would last.
- So if the bigger up front doesn't work and the smaller back doesn't either... am I completely SOL? I was thinking if this is the case, I could get a smaller length crank, so although I pedal at a faster cadence, it isnt as bad. I also was thinking that since as previously mentioned I am not sure the system would delivery the required power at a higher pedal cadence. It seems like peak torque happens around 65-70 RPM, not the clown like 85-95 I would need to hit 30 mph on the 48/11 stock gearing.
Thanks for the input!!
So, since I don't think I am going to be eligible for a battery replacement, I might as well let it rip now. Currently I can maintain about 24-27 mph on the flats depending on several factors. Ideally, I would like to be able to remove the top speed limiter and install some taller gearing with a goal of maintaining around 30-32 mph on the flats. My speculating is that a top speed limiter remover would be great, but based on how the bike reacts, peak torque doesn't happen at a higher cadence level... it has to be lower for the max support to kick in. Therefore to stretch it out correctly and really get a good level of assist into the higher speeds, think I would need both. The problem is the gearing appears a lot easier said than done and brings up the questions that I have:
- Has anyone managed to install a larger front chain ring on the quick e? It comes stock with a 48 tooth, and unfortunately it doesn't look like a lot of room is available to increase the size here. Ideally a 52 would bring the cadence to a comfortable 80 with an 11 tooth in the back. I would guess that a 50 tooth may fit, but a 52 just won't. Anyone have any input on this one?
- Second on the larger chainring - I brought up at the bike shop with the idea to put in a 5 MM spacer or so to move the main chainring out, so I could nestle in a 52 tooth up front. They looked at me like I was crazy for opting to mess up the chain line. I am not a pro, but it doesnt seem like it is a bid deal since I am doing all the riding in the bottom 1/2 of the gears anyway.
- Dropping down to a 10 tooth cog seems like another easy solution, but apparently they dont manufacture a 10 speed cassette with a 10 speed cog, so I would have to do a giant conversion to a SRAM XD or something along those lines to be able to fit an 11 speed. If that is the case, do I just need the conversion part, or do I need a whole new derailer, shifters, etc.? I was also thinking even if I was able to go down to the 10, would it work? I wore out my 11 speed cog in about 1500 miles.... not sure how long a 10 would last.
- So if the bigger up front doesn't work and the smaller back doesn't either... am I completely SOL? I was thinking if this is the case, I could get a smaller length crank, so although I pedal at a faster cadence, it isnt as bad. I also was thinking that since as previously mentioned I am not sure the system would delivery the required power at a higher pedal cadence. It seems like peak torque happens around 65-70 RPM, not the clown like 85-95 I would need to hit 30 mph on the 48/11 stock gearing.
Thanks for the input!!
