If you were me, which Turbo Vado SL would you buy?

[paterbil]

Now it is the little things that swing a buying decision, and asking for a crowd source response to:

"If it were me, I would buy...."

First: 72 years old, live in coastal Florida, ride 100 miles/week on a Trek FX6 Sport(flat bar, 105). Elevations are a bridges over the Intercoastal.
The SL will be outside of Pittsburgh, where I ride 4-5 months a year with my son. Nothing is flat, all on road. I want to keep up. Don't care about EQ.

Current pricing roughly SL4, $3K vs SL5, $4.2 - 4.5.
Old stock or current year are available, same pricing

SL4 old vs current stock seems to be Deore vs SRAM
SL5 old vs current stock is XT&XLS vs SRAM, and Future Shock vs Carbon

Decision seems to be value of 5 v 4, which groupset, and suspension.

Probably the only e bike I will buy for myself (not a negative statement, at all). Can afford either one.

Probably no bad choices, so I am asking those who made them. Cost/Value/Benefit. Without overthinking, which would you buy ?

Thanks in advance for your responses. I look forward to participating in the discussions, one bike or another.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

SL 5, old stock. You need the 12 speed drivetrain and better brakes for the hills. Future Shock is good. As it comes with a carbon fork, it is not recommended for heavy people (you did not mention your weight).

 

[paterbil]

SL 5, old stock. You need the 12 speed drivetrain and better brakes for the hills. Future Shock is good. As it comes with a carbon fork, it is not recommended for heavy people (you did not mention your weight).

Thank you Stefan...

For the record 6'1", 180 lb....1.85m, 81 kg

And always more questions: which size L or XL ? It is very close on the Specialized site.

Thanks again

 

[Ben J]

I looked at the models and as soon as I saw the yellow color for the current SL 5 EQ, I'd be tempted to get that and remove the fenders if I didn't want EQ!

--someone whose bike is only available in matte black

 

[Ben J]

And always more questions: which size L or XL ? It is very close on the Specialized site.

If you go to the detail page and expand "Geometry" you can see all the measurements for the different sizes. If you roll your mouse over, it will show you what each one refers to, so you can compare with your current bike (assuming you like the fit). You might be able to find the same data for your existing Trek to save time measuring. The important ones would be stack/reach and top-tube length. Those would give you a good idea if your posture will be similar on the new bike.

 

[rich c]

Elevations in Florida is hilarious!

 

[paterbil]

BenJ - a great geometry tool, and comparison tool in general .... 99spokes.... it gives a graphic overlay Thanks

rich c - i was thinking of building a ramp up to my townhouse roof for climbing practice

 

[Chibbie]

I don’t own either one, but I do live in Pittsburgh and ride e-bikes here. I live in a part of the city (the East End) that has lots of gradual long mild slopes but only a few steep hills. Depending on exactly where “outside of Pittsburgh” you are, though, the hills could be *much* more significant, as you probably know. So:

Do either of the SLs you’re considering have enough power to handle the hills you’ll be riding on, given your goals and fitness level? Even better, have you had a chance to test ride either of them in the areas of Pittsburgh you’ll be riding in? I’m pretty sure that Pro Bike Run and Thick Bikes here in Pittsburgh are both Specialized dealers, so one or both of them should have some Vado SLs you can test ride. (Both stores are located in relatively flat areas, though, so you’d need to make sure a test ride route is selected that includes some significant hills.)

For some perspective on my ebike riding in my area of Pittsburgh with two different e-bikes (one lighter weight but lower powered; the other, higher weight but higher powered), see post #21 here:

LeMond Dutch e-bike: battery range and tires

Easy. The fact some tyres are marked as "tubeless" does not mean you cannot use the inner tube (that is, these tyres offer the tubeless capability, too). I actually ride Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 with inner tubes. There's been a lot of confusion with wheel/tyre sizes; that's why ETRTO...

electricbikereview.com

Good luck!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

remove the fenders if I didn't want EQ!

Which would upset the meticulously integrated tail-light and rear rack.

The important ones would be stack/reach and top-tube length. Those would give you a good idea if your posture will be similar on the new bike.

The most important is the Standover Height, that is, whether the rider could straddle the top tube. As long the Standover Height is appropriate for the XL, I would try the bigger e-bike of the two (L or XL) as Vado SL is pretty forgiving on geometry.

180 lb....

No worries about the Future Shock/Carbon fork then!

Do either of the SLs you’re considering have enough power to handle the hills you’ll be riding on, given your goals and fitness level? Even better, have you had a chance to test ride either of them in the areas of Pittsburgh you’ll be riding in? I’m pretty sure that Pro Bike Run and Thick Bikes here in Pittsburgh are both Specialized dealers, so one or both of them should have some Vado SLs you can test ride. (Both stores are located in relatively flat areas, though, so you’d need to make sure a test ride route is selected that includes some significant hills.)

A sound advice!

 

[Allan47.7339]

"The most important is the Standover Height, that is, whether the rider could straddle the top tube. As long the Standover Height is appropriate for the XL, I would try the bigger e-bike of the two (L or XL) as Vado SL is pretty forgiving on geometry."

I have to disagree with Stefan that standover height is very important or if it's even important at all. You really want to make sure when you are riding it's in a comfortable position. I would buy the least expensive model that fits. The SL 5 are 12-speed which have slightly higher maintenance costs of chains and cassettes, and 12 speed chains are more proprietary.

We are assuming the SL system will add enough power for you to keep up with your son and he's not riding at 20+ mph average.

 

[Te. S]

Thank you Stefan...

For the record 6'1", 180 lb....1.85m, 81 kg

And always more questions: which size L or XL ? It is very close on the Specialized site.

Thanks again

I am 5'11 and ride the large Sl 4.0 you would be ok with either size just try both and see witch one fits you better if you are going to remove the fenders don't buy the EQ.

 

[JeffC57]

As for the size, a L will probably work. I am 6'3" with 36" inseam and the Vado SL 5 EQ in Large works for me. Regardless always best to try them both to find the best fit for you.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have to disagree with Stefan that standover height is very important or if it's even important at all.

If a rider has relatively short legs, the standover height is important to keep his private parts safe...

 

[Douglas Ruby]

I already made the decision and purchased a screaming yellow new-stock SL 5.0 EQ. The wider ratio SRAM is really worth it. I have upgraded mine by installing the XD driver, 10-52 GX cassette, and a GX chain, and a 46T front sprocket. The ratios are now just right so that I have a "grinder" low low that allows me to climb just about anything, I can reach 28 mph in 11th gear and still have 12th gear left for downhill descents. The carbon fork and future shock make the bike much more comfortable.

I live in north central Massachusetts and get a fair amount of hilly riding. I am 72, 5'11", and 217lbs and this is my second eBike. With 2 x range extender batteries, my effective range is around 65+ miles at a average pace of 15 mph.

 

[gpburdell]

Not sure I'd call the SL 5.0 EQ yellow "screaming"... Saw one in person and it seemed kinda muted due to the matte/satin finish. It's nice, and it's different, but not as vibrant as I'd anticipated from the website.

@paterbil assuming the roads of PA aren't any better than the roads of central NYS twenty odd years ago, buy the 5.0 with Future Shock. It makes a real difference, especially if there's a lot of alligator-cracking of the pavement. Cassettes and deraillieurs and chainrings are easily changed. Not so much with regards to frames and forks and FutureShock.

As to bike fitment - standover height is important IMHO - if you're not able to comfortably straddle the top tube you'd just asking for trouble at some point when you have a quick stop on less than ideal terrain. Start with that. If that pushes you to a smaller frame, then you may need to make adjustments to the stem (and maybe) handlebars for the appropriate reach, but that's simple and usually not very expensive. From a fitment perspective, start with seat height to pedal, plus seat-rail forward/aft for proper knee-to-foot positioning. Then check reach to handlebars - rule of thumb is the front axle should be occluded by the handlebars when you're in riding position (edit: at least on a drop-bar bike, not sure for hybrid?) - and adjust as appropriate as well as handlebar height vs seat height depending on your preferred positioning. Getting a proper bike fitting done is well worth the investment.

 

[Allan47.7339]

Not sure I'd call the SL 5.0 EQ yellow "screaming"... Saw one in person and it seemed kinda muted due to the matte/satin finish. It's nice, and it's different, but not as vibrant as I'd anticipated from the website.

@paterbil assuming the roads of PA aren't any better than the roads of central NYS twenty odd years ago, buy the 5.0 with Future Shock. It makes a real difference, especially if there's a lot of alligator-cracking of the pavement. Cassettes and deraillieurs and chainrings are easily changed. Not so much with regards to frames and forks and FutureShock.

As to bike fitment - standover height is important IMHO - if you're not able to comfortably straddle the top tube you'd just asking for trouble at some point when you have a quick stop on less than ideal terrain. Start with that. If that pushes you to a smaller frame, then you may need to make adjustments to the stem (and maybe) handlebars for the appropriate reach, but that's simple and usually not very expensive. From a fitment perspective, start with seat height to pedal, plus seat-rail forward/aft for proper knee-to-foot positioning. Then check reach to handlebars - rule of thumb is the front axle should be occluded by the handlebars when you're in riding position - and adjust as appropriate as well as handlebar height vs seat height depending on your preferred positioning. Getting a proper bike fitting done is well worth the investment.

The bottom line.

 

[fatshark]

I've got the SL 5.0 EQ in cruising (not screaming) yellow and love it. I'm also about the OP's height and 3-4 kg's heavier. I got the XL and it's definitely the right size for me. I bought mine online (I live >150 miles from the nearest dealer) and spent some time discussing the sizing with the Specialized guy. I thought long and hard about the mudguards but am pleased I got them. The bike stays cleaner and I'm more tempted to go out in poor weather. The gearing was a little high for me - I routinely do 600-900 metres of climbing on a 40 km ride - so I changed the chainring. The roads here are very poor and the FutureShock certainly helps. Other than the chainring, grips and pedals it's stock and I'd buy exactly the same thing again.

 

[PSm]

Thank you Stefan...

For the record 6'1", 180 lb....1.85m, 81 kg

And always more questions: which size L or XL ? It is very close on the Specialized site.

Thanks again

Especially for a flat bar bike, I have always gone for the smaller size (if on the edge of either), since it’s easy enough to adjust the seat height, and use adjustable stems if needed.

Btw, the yellow color is sweet, and as a side benefit might make you easier on the road by drivers!

 

[mschwett]

Especially for a flat bar bike, I have always gone for the smaller size (if on the edge of either), since it’s easy enough to adjust the seat height, and use adjustable stems if needed.

Btw, the yellow color is sweet, and as a side benefit might make you easier on the road by drivers!

of course there are always edge cases and extremes but i strongly agree with this - the advice is almost always to go with the slightly smaller bike. seats can be moved back and up and bars can be moved forward with longer stems with much more tolerance than the other direction. if the reach on the bike is too long, as the seat moves forward it becomes more awkward to pedal, and more exposed seat tube makes the ride more compliant, especially on an aluminum bike! a bigger frame with the seat low, forward, and a short stem is a recipe for a bad-handling and uncomfortable bike!

for @paterbil if a test ride of both sizes is not possible (these bikes are pretty readily available on the east coast) i'd probably go by inseam and arm length relative to the average for your height. above average, consider the larger size, below average, most definitely the smaller. luckily the XL vado SL is not a huge jump in size from the L, but an 1126mm wheelbase is a big bike.

 

[CodyDog]

Mellow yellow!