HUB vs MID DRIVE - how can I compare?

SV Moving On

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I am researching the heck out of a bike I can use as an overland trail bike. We have a Winnebago Revel on the way and need to match it up with a bike that can get us around some cool trails.

I've noticed some bikes have the option of a 350 w Mid Drive and a 500 w Hub Drive. Can someone help me compare these? I know there are some positives and negatives to both.....

BTW - such a great forum ! This site rules!
 
You are asking for an outline of quite a lot of data, and with a bottom line based upon many variables.

Simple answer: You will work harder riding a 500 watt hub bike than a 350 watt mid-drive.


Spend some time reading our host's reviews and watching his videos. It's all good.
 
I am researching the heck out of a bike I can use as an overland trail bike. We have a Winnebago Revel on the way and need to match it up with a bike that can get us around some cool trails.

I've noticed some bikes have the option of a 350 w Mid Drive and a 500 w Hub Drive. Can someone help me compare these? I know there are some positives and negatives to both.....

BTW - such a great forum ! This site rules!
May I suggest you do a Google search using “hub vs mid drive”. While some aspects of this can be found on this site, there are many excellent magazine articles discussing the pros and cons of both types. Plus, since many members are owners of one type or the other, there will be inherent biases, something which may not exist in a third party analysis of e-bikes.
 
You are asking for an outline of quite a lot of data, and with a bottom line based upon many variables.

Simple answer: You will work harder riding a 500 watt hub bike than a 350 watt mid-drive.


Spend some time reading our host's reviews and watching his videos. It's all good.

Thanks! I've been watching tons of Court's videos since the beginning really. I think he is a BEAST in this world - really the only one that consistently creates relative content.

But things change and I just wanted the latest and greatest as I see more bikes purpose built with the mid drive.
 
May I suggest you do a Google search using “hub vs mid drive”. While some aspects of this can be found on this site, there are many excellent magazine articles discussing the pros and cons of both types. Plus, since many members are owners of one type or the other, there will be inherent biases, something which may not exist in a third party analysis of e-bikes.

Awesome - I'll do that again. Google is my second best friend.
 
Uh, I need my 30 tooth drive sprocket to get up 15% grades, particularly if the battery gets low.And a 42 tooth to ride on flat ground. I'm planning on 80 miles trips without charging, electric against the wind at least 40 miles. Mid drive makes you chose one sprcket or the other and I don't think 30 tooth is available. Plus I was doing a conversion of an old steel bike and had questions about the new sprocket compatibility with old crank designs. Old bikes are sturdier, if you're installing a hub drive.
So I bought a front hub drive, geared. It is extremely powerful and zips me right up the 15% hill, no waiting. I don't even have to downshift. Fully charged 48 v batteries are nice (57 v after 11 miles) , but the shaking destroyed the battery internally the third trip, and I rode 24 miles home after failure the old way. Good to have a one-way clutch in the hub, no drag. Just and extra 20 pounds, no problem since I often carry 40 lb of supplies without power. BTW front drive was not a steering problem so far. My 48 v 1000 w hub was $200 and included controller, hand throttle, crank pickup and magnets, two hand brake handles for immediate shutoff, a LCD display of km/hr, battery level, PAS level. there was a mode and updown switch. The battery was from another vendor, we'll see how they respond to my warrenty request.
 
Uh, I need my 30 tooth drive sprocket to get up 15% grades, particularly if the battery gets low.And a 42 tooth to ride on flat ground. I'm planning on 80 miles trips without charging, electric against the wind at least 40 miles. Mid drive makes you chose one sprcket or the other and I don't think 30 tooth is available. Plus I was doing a conversion of an old steel bike and had questions about the new sprocket compatibility with old crank designs. Old bikes are sturdier, if you're installing a hub drive.
So I bought a front hub drive, geared. It is extremely powerful and zips me right up the 15% hill, no waiting. I don't even have to downshift. Fully charged 48 v batteries are nice (57 v after 11 miles) , but the shaking destroyed the battery internally the third trip, and I rode 24 miles home after failure the old way. Good to have a one-way clutch in the hub, no drag. Just and extra 20 pounds, no problem since I often carry 40 lb of supplies without power. BTW front drive was not a steering problem so far. My 48 v 1000 w hub was $200 and included controller, hand throttle, crank pickup and magnets, two hand brake handles for immediate shutoff, a LCD display of km/hr, battery level, PAS level. there was a mode and updown switch. The battery was from another vendor, we'll see how they respond to my warrenty request.

Thanks! That is some insight I didn't think of.
 
I would narrow my picks by:

throttle -vs- no throttle (more hub drives have throttles)
cost (hub drive can range $700-$2500 on average and mid drives can start at $2500 and go up)
weight (hub drive can be heavier, especially in the rear to limit serious trail riding)
Range (depending on batteries, hub drives can average 20-30 miles per charge normally compared to 2X and sometimes 3X with mid-drives)
Hill climbing (mid drives can be better hill climbers on very steep grades; but, a 750w hub can still do a pretty good job)
learning curve (hub drives have the same learning curve as riding a regular bike)
Complexity (a lot of hub drives are regular bikes with or with out slight frame modifications for battery placements, easy to update, maintain, or replace parts)
Class I or II (20 mph max, 750w max, w or w/o throttle, can fall under regular pedal bike rules)
Class III (28mph max, little more restrictions, can be considered a motor vehicle by some rules)

It might be worth checking to see if you can rent an electric bike with hub or mid-drive for weekend or week? I would go with 750w hub drive compared to 500w. I would also factor in riding the hub or mid-drive with no power. There are sooooo many restrictions against ebike every where you look. You might have to remove the battery and ride like a regular bike if there is a local "no ebike allowed" law like on the hiking/mtb trails in Sedona, AZ.
 
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You will work harder riding a 500 watt hub bike than a 350 watt mid-drive.
Throttle apparently is not a part of equation here, we are talking PAS or no power only. Leveraging with chain in mid-drive, yes. But... 500W hub harder than 350W mid, just like that?
 
Hub drives are much easier to get up to speed and maintain speed. Direct drive hubs are also very durable and do not cause wear on chain and gearsets. However, if you plan on doing lots of hill climbing, a mid-drive will produce more torque so it is easier (albeit slower) to climb with a mid-drive. We recommend mid-drives for mountain bikes but rear hubs for road or trail.
 
I would narrow my picks by:

throttle -vs- no throttle (more hub drives have throttles)
cost (hub drive can range $700-$2500 on average and mid drives can start at $2500 and go up)
weight (hub drive can be heavier, especially in the rear to limit serious trail riding)
Range (depending on batteries, hub drives can average 20-30 miles per charge normally compared to 2X and sometimes 3X with mid-drives)
Hill climbing (mid drives can be better hill climbers on very steep grades; but, a 750w hub can still do a pretty good job)
learning curve (hub drives have the same learning curve as riding a regular bike)
Complexity (a lot of hub drives are regular bikes with or with out slight frame modifications for battery placements, easy to update, maintain, or replace parts)
Class I or II (20 mph max, 750w max, w or w/o throttle, can fall under regular pedal bike rules)
Class III (28mph max, little more restrictions, can be considered a motor vehicle by some rules)

It might be worth checking to see if you can rent an electric bike with hub or mid-drive for weekend or week? I would go with 750w hub drive compared to 500w. I would also factor in riding the hub or mid-drive with no power. There are sooooo many restrictions against ebike every where you look. You might have to remove the battery and ride like a regular bike if there is a local "no ebike allowed" law like on the hiking/mtb trails in Sedona, AZ.

Good Summary - I would add that a lot (or most) mid-drives have a torque sensor on the pedal assist, while few hub drive have that feature, and the torque sensor gives you a more natural feel to the pedal assist to make you feel stronger while still doing the work to pedal.

Also, with a hub drive and throttle you can still propel the bike if the chain drops or breaks, while I can't name a mid-drive off the top of my head that has a throttle.

We picked mid-drive Trek eBikes for the more natural feeling of the torque sensing pedal assist and the mid-drive for climbing better in a low gear. The lower center of gravity is nice too.

We can typically go 35-75 miles on a charge, depending on the terrain and climbing. (Bosche drive on mine, Shimano Steps motor on the wife's, and my wife's range is farther than on mine at about 50-90 miles.)
 
Good Summary - I would add that a lot (or most) mid-drives have a torque sensor on the pedal assist, while few hub drive have that feature, and the torque sensor gives you a more natural feel to the pedal assist to make you feel stronger while still doing the work to pedal.
All Easy Motion, Specialized and Stromer hub driven bikes have and always have had torque sensors. Some of Pedego bikes do as well.
 
Also, with a hub drive and throttle you can still propel the bike if the chain drops or breaks, while I can't name a mid-drive off the top of my head that has a throttle.
There are mid-drives with throttle - Biktrix comes to mind, and others with the same BBS line of motors. But having a throttle on mid-drive won't help if the chain breaks - you will not be able to ride at all.

This makes hubs perfect commuters (and, as noted, easier to bring up to speed after stopping in traffic). Less energy-efficient climbing does not necessarily make it harder to pedal (and, as noted, can be faster than mid-drive), BUT... you might have to switch to higher PAS level, so the battery lasts shorter, though this is not very important for an urban commuter.

They are two different creatures, for different though overlapping purposes.
 
It's interesting that Kalkhoff decided to bring not just a hub, but a direct drive hub. Low-power direct-drive at that. Z30 stands for (I think) 350W, and Z20 - 250W for European market. Sounds like another extreme case, aimed at low-maintenance bike for a very moderate terrain. Netherlands, perhaps. Direct drives are very durable, compared to geared hubs and mid-drives.
 
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Thanks all - this has been a huge help! Starting to lean towards the hub motor. Really will be on road / dirt trails / snow / and moderate trails. We are in Colorado a lot of the time and really not looking to go on super tech trails... more going out making our own way.
 
I ride a lot of single track near the Rio Grande river in ABQ. It really comes in handy having the throttle for short inclines, sandy conditions to power through, tight turns when the pedal might hit the ground or obstacles, or when I need to crouch on top of the top tube to duck branches.

There were times the trails were blocked from fallen trees or really deep muddy spots. The 4" fat tires didn't miss a beat making my own trail around these obstacles. Unless you plan on going up/down very steep inclines/declines, a suspension seatpost is the way to go.
 
I am researching the heck out of a bike I can use as an overland trail bike. We have a Winnebago Revel on the way and need to match it up with a bike that can get us around some cool trails.

I've noticed some bikes have the option of a 350 w Mid Drive and a 500 w Hub Drive. Can someone help me compare these? I know there are some positives and negatives to both.....

BTW - such a great forum ! This site rules!
Not all hub drives are equal and not all mid drives are equal.

First thing you need to do is decide on a budget.
If it's no more than $2000, that answers your question right away - rule out mid drives. Very few will be found with mid drives on them below this price, and if they are I would run far away, bc its very hard to build an ebike with a quality mid drive below that price (for now anyway).

Generally You wont' find a quality mid drive on a quality ebike for under $2500, nor many models or brands, and you are best starting at around $3000 budget if you want a mid drive thats going to provide the reliability (i.e. not stripped or failed after one season) you likely want to see in any ebike purchase. (irrespective of drive type).

In general, the mid drive (vs Hub) will give you the following:
1) Usually better torque for a given wattage of motor you choose.
2) Usually a better range for a given battery capacity
3) Hill climbing ability will vary greatly between mid drives - for example, Evelo couples their mid drive with a Nu Vinci hub, which allows you to override a 'transmission' to simulate 'gear 1' of a cassette or freewheel on a regular bike. The NuVinci replaces a traditional geared derailleur. For any mid drive comparison, You want to look at the torque specs to compare. If you are seeing 60,70 80 NM (newton-meters) thats pretty darn good. (often hub drives are generally around 30,40, or 50 nm,) Rear hubs can also see that level of torque (up to 80 nm) depending how they are designed, and geared internally. One example is the 350 Watt Hub drive on Surface Boar. Its rated at 80 NM, and it 'feels' like the power of a typical 750 watt motor, but the trade off with that is it's top end speed is limited to 20 mph. So if you are off roading, its an excellent bike for hilly terrain, again in a rear hub drive.
4) Mid drives can provide a lot more wear and tear on chains and cassettes, and with that higher torque, can stretch the chains/weaken links, and wear out the cassettes or free wheels faster than hub drive given the same wattage, and other ratios between crank gear, and rear cassette. (Note I use cassette and free wheel interchangeably in this dialogue. For simplicity Im referring to the traditional 6 to 10 sprockets you see on a rear hub regular bike or in this case too an ebike)
5) If the mid drive does have a torque sensor, and its properly tuned, the ebike will feel a bit more like a regular bike in terms of the fact that as you press harder, the greater the response is from the drive, and the resulting output to the wheel is similar. Keeping in mind, that motor is applying A LOT more leverage and torque than you as the rider would traditionally do without assistance. I've read up to 5 times, but haven't checked out the physics calcs myself.
6) Over time, mid drives will have more maintenance, and are more complex, and require much more sophisticated software to operate proficiently, than do rear hubs.
They are rarely able to be 'serviced' by the typical ebike shop tech, and usually require full replacement or being sent back to the manufacturer for repair. This varies by brand. Bosch, Brose, Yamaha are known to make some quality mid drives, but they are pricey. Less costly mid drives are available from BaFang and E-Rad.
7) may be a little easier to deal with a tire change on mid drive than hub drive.

Rear Hub Drives will give you the following:
1) For about roughly $700 to $1000 less (retail), you will get a hub drive equivalent in rated wattage/torque on a given ebike, than if its equipped mid drive. Thats NOT the extra cost of the mid drive motor per se, but usually the price gap on the entire bike, where ebikes with mid drives have tended to be more feature rich overall and generally (not always) come with higher end components in general on the entire ebike, and OEM's also usually demand higher margins when selling them. Its as though their thinking is 'hey anyone who can afford to plunk down $3500 for an ebike, probably will have no issue plunking down $4500 or $5000." Im not saying that is right way of thinking, but its the retailing and marketing side of 'how high can we go on our sale price' before the consumer cries uncle ? Right now, thats not known here in the US, because we are still in the very infancy and early adopter stage. Heck regular bikes and many many models of them are priced $3000 to $5000, but those are for serious cyclists generally. Ebikes are likely getting more people who haven't biked for a long while, than they are getting 'serious' cyclists who are in awesome physical shape and their purpose for biking is very different from most would be consumers.
2) Torque and power is directly transferred via the spokes and tire to the road, so generally they do feel more 'responsive' when power is applied (up to a point), as you are eliminating motor lag, chain transfer, cassette transfer and the internal typical geared design on the mid drive.
3) Most hub motors on ebikes are internally geared, which makes them more compact, and allows for the OEM to design the level of torque vs wattage and volts into a motor. Thus not all hub drives are 'equal.' There are direct drive motors, but to put it bluntly, they are much heavier for a given wattage rating, and while possessing the ability to provide more raw torque, they will also suck down your battery faster, and be much larger in diameter in your hub. If it's 'stealth' that you want (i.e. not look so much like an ebike) then you don't want direct drives. They are also usually more expensive. Good applications for direct drives are for slower bikes, such as trikes that are heavy, or cargo bikes, and occasionally you'll see them on ebikes that are very high wattage (i.e. over 1000 watts) used for off road only, since above 750 watts they are not 'street legal' and require a license like you would need with a gas powered motor above 50 cc.
4) Hub drives are often available and set up with throttle and pedal assist, but sometimes depending upon the design purpose of the overall bike, the manufacturer will not provide a throttle.
5) There is some mis conceptions out there that hub drives 'break spokes.' Generally that is just not true when the spokes and hubs are all designed properly, and tensioned properly. Yes there can be defects but spokes break on regular bikes too, if they are not properly designed and tensioned, and the rim is not true. I wouldn't let that weigh in your decision.

You'll hear of brands like Bafang (formerly used 8FUN name too), Dupai, Shengyi, and others. Bafang is coming out with new levels of performance and tiered levels of better quality, so again, not all Bafangs are equal or the same. Personally, I would not worry about it, as the hub motors are so common, and so easy to obtain and replace, that its just not a big factor in the decision process. If you were spending less than $1200 on the entire ebike, THEN I might start to worry about the motor brand and quality.

The above is about all you need to know between hub drives and mid drives, and anything else you read is just slicing hairs on only one aspect of the overall ride and performance of an ebike.

One last thing, related to voltage of either mid drive or hub drive. If you are thinking you regularly want to go above 20 mph, you'll probably want to go with at least a 48 volt motor/battery combination, and usually at least 500 watts. That higher voltage will allow for both more battery capacity in a given physical space, and allow the motor to achieve the speed and torque you would likely desire, if you are expecting to go above 20 mph and/or expect a lot of hills on a given ride.

In summary: determine your price point (max budget you can allocate) first, then choose a few ebike brands and styles that fits your riding style and purpose best, and then lastly maybe think about what type of drive. (that will often automatically 'fall out' by your budget). Then seek to get the most bang for your buck. If you don't follow the above order in your 'decision tree' I guarantee you will drive yourself crazy, become thoroughly confused, and drive the dealers crazy too, or worse be talked into something you don't really need, or spend way too much for a given set of specs. If you do have the budget and are willing to spend $3500, by all means knock yourself out, and look at bikes with both mid drives and rear hubs. If you are off roading a lot, you may find the mid drive suits you better in terms of feel, and you can rule out looking at hub drives. (save you lots of research and ride time). But again be prepared to pay more for that mid drive, both first cost, and long term cost. Mid drives have come on pretty fast in the past 3 to 4 years. Only as recently as 4 or 5 years ago, it was very hard to find a really good quality mid drive, at a price point that wouldn't make you wince. In fact, I'd say the improvements in mid drives have been equal or very close to the dramatic improvements in battery capacity, life, and compactness in the past 3 to 4 years. (all Lithium based of course) Hub drives have been out for many more years (decades) and in general have a MUCH more proven track record. E-Bike OEM's are being courted VERY heavily by the mid drive OEMS because those OEM's really need to get the volumes way way up. China's market dominates the world for ebike motors, and they are all mostly hub drives, so hubs will always be cheaper and have much higher volumes world wide. Much larger manufacturing capacity exists for hub drives than for mid drives. Mid drives also require very specialized frame designs as well adding to cost on the bike. Maybe here in the US mid drives will become more popular than hub drives, but that could be a long while, and even then we are only talking a couple hundred thousand ebikes per year sold, maybe 300,000 in 2018, versus china which is in the millions annually. I only mention that, because just because more and more ebike OEM's are now offering mid drives here in the US or in Europe, it does not mean they are a 'better choice' or better technology. There is however a lot more room on mid drives for technology enhancement, and technology sophistication, which does mean 'more bucks' in terms of sales for the ebike industry.

have fun, but don't spend too much time reading the research - its best to just go ride them and see how you feel on the bike.
 
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